Central Thailand
Going north from Bangkok, travelers tracing the route of the Chao Phraya River travel back in time as they push up-stream and beyond. Starting with the ruins of Ayuthaya, the towns as you go north are the successive historical capitals of old Siam: Ayuthaya (capital from 1350–1760) to tiny Lop Buri, then further north to the vast Central Plains and the nation’s greatest architectural wonder, Sukhothai, the very founding point of the Thai kingdom in 1238. Further north is the land of Lanna and the distinct ancient kingdom centered around Chiang Mai (see chapters 11–13). While it’s a good area to discover Thailand’s historical past, Central Thailand smaller work-a-day towns provide a window into rural culture and lifestyles of another time (ignore the pickup trucks and TVs of course). |
| Map of central Thailand |
Accommodations in the area run the gamut and it’s often just as comfortable (certainly more atmospheric) to visit more budget guesthouses with lots of character and useful traveler information than the more faceless small business hotels. Riding the trains is a good adventure, rent bicycles wherever you can, try some different food at the night markets and bring your curiosity and a phrase book.
76km (47 miles) N of Bangkok
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| Ayutthaya, the old capital of Thailand |
Ayutthaya is one of Thailand’s historical highlights. Many travelers take the day tour from Bangkok, which allows about 3 hours at the sites, but for folks with an interest in archaeological ruins, Ayutthaya justifies an overnight or more. From its establishment in 1350 by King U-Thong (Ramathibodi I) until its fall to the Burmese in 1767, Ayutthaya was Thailand’s capital and home to 33 kings and numerous dynasties. At its zenith and until the mid–18th century, Ayutthaya was a majestic city with three palaces and 400 splendid temples on an island threaded by canals—a site that mightily impressed European visitors.
Then, in 1767, after a 15-month siege, the town was destroyed by the Burmese and today there are but groups of crumbling ruins and rows of headless Buddhas where once an empire thrived. The temple compounds are still awe-inspiring even in disrepair and a visit here is memorable and a good beginning for those drawn to the relics of history. (Fun note: don’t miss the Buddha head lodged in the tree trunk at Wat Mahatat, quite unique). The architecture of Ayutthaya is a fascinating mix of Khmer, or ancient Cambodian style, and early Sukhothai style. Cactus-shaped obelisks, called prangs, denote Khmer influence and look something like the famous towers of Angkor Wat. The more pointed stupas are ascribed to Sukhothai. If you’ve just arrived and have confined your stay to Bangkok, you might note similarities with the riverside Wat Arun, an 18th-century structure that was built in the so-called Ayutthaya style, a melding of Sukhothai Buddhist influences and Hinduinspired Khmer motifs.
.jpg "Hua Lampong Railway Station, Bangkok") |
| Hua Lampong Railway Station, Bangkok |
By Train Trains depart 9 times daily from Bangkok’s Hua Lampong Railway Station (Tel. 02-2230341-8 or 1690) starting at 4:30am (trip time: 11⁄2 hr.; 15B/35¢ third class).
By Bus Buses leave every 20 minutes from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal, on Kampaengphet 2 Rd. Mor Chit (Tel. 02-936-2841-48, 02-936-2852-66 ext. 442, 311) beginning at 5:40am (trip time: 11⁄2 hr.; 47B/$1.15).
By Boat All-day river cruises are a popular option to and from Ayuthaya.
Contact River Sun Cruises at (tel. 02 476 5207-8) directly or book through any riverside hotel: departure points are the Oriental Hotel (Tel. 0 2 164 1001-7, 673 3107-9),
Shangri-La Hotel (Tel. 0 2236-7777), or River City pier daily at approximately 7:30am (and include a stop at Bang Pa-In). Day trips include a cruise on the Chao Phraya, tour of the ancient city and return by air-conditioned coach or vice versa (trip time: all day; 1,600B/$39).
If you really want to turn your trip to Ayutthaya into an adventure, travel aboard the Manhora Song . Trips leave every Monday and Thursday and passengers enjoy the height of luxury for three days and two nights on this renovated 60-year old teak rice barge. Four state rooms, with en suite bathrooms, are appointed in warm teak and mahogany. The ship’s crew serves cocktails, snacks, and delicious Thai meals on a shaded deck or sun deck lounge area. The trip includes a stop at Wat Bang Na temple among others. Inclusive of all fine meals, tours and transfers, the trip runs 40,000B ($975) for two. For reservations, call tel. 0 2476-0021 or fax 02476-1805.
A much cheaper, self-guided boat trip can be arranged through the Chao Phraya Express Co. (Tel. 0 2222-5330), which offers service on Sundays at 8am from the Maharat Pier to Bang Pa-In, where you can have lunch. The unguided, all-day excursion is very popular with locals and costs 350B ($8.50) per person, meals not included.
The town is encircled by water with perimeters defined by the Chao Phraya on the southern and western sides, the Lopburi River to the north, and the Pasak to the east. The main ferry pier is located on the east side of town, just opposite the train station. The Bangkok bus makes its last stop at the station adjacent to the Siam Commercial Bank Building, off Chao Prom Road in the downtown area (there is another stop before this that lets travelers off near the bridge). Buses from Phitsanulok stop 5km (3 miles) north of town; you’ll need to take a 10B (25¢) local bus into the center.
There is a TAT office at Si Sanphet Road opposite the National Museum
(Tel. 0 3532-2730). Stop by for maps and other information.
.jpg "Tuk-tuk Ayutthaya") |
| Tuk-tuk Ayutthaya |
A tuk-tuk from the train station into town will cost about 40B ($1), but about 50m (150ft) from the station is a small river ferry, which will take you to city-island for 3B (10¢). Tuk-tuks from the island will take you to your hotel and there are even a few samlors (pedicabs), a unique way to get around (from 20B/50¢ for a short ride). Better yet, hire a long-tail boat to see the city the leisurely way for about 200B/$4.90 per hour (the pier is on the northeast end of the island, near the night market). There is regular minibus service between Ayutthaya and Bang Pa-In, departing from Chao Prom Market on the road of the same name (trip time: 50 min.; 20B/50¢).
Siam City Bank has a branch on U-Thong Road just south of the ferry terminal on the temple side of the river (across from the train station). The post office is on Rojana road in the south of town near the main police station (any hotel or guesthouse can help with posting). Rajthanee Hospital is a full-service clinic (Tel. 0 3533-5555) and the tourist police can be reached at tel. 0 3524-1446 or 01155.
The central island area of Ayuthaya is itself the site: modern buildings and busy canal-side streets are in and among the ruins of this once-great city. It is flat, so going by rented bicycle is a good choice (though hot) and any hotel can arrange day-tours starting at 1,200B ($29). The sites below are but of a few of the many and having a guide is a good idea (what seems a stack of rocks becomes living history in the telling). The TAT (at the museum) has a detailed map and most hotels and guesthouses publish small maps to augment the one above.
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| Ayutthaya Historical Center |
Ayutthaya Historical Study Center (
) As a resource for students, scholars, and the public, the center presents displays of the ancient city including models of the palace and the port area and reconstructions of ships and architectural elements, as well as a fine selection of historical objects. There’s an interesting section about the earliest foreigners in Ayutthaya. A good overview. Rojana Rd. Tel. 0 3524-5123-4. Admission 100B ($2.50). Mon–Fri 9am–4:30pm; Sat–Sun 9am–5pm.
) As a resource for students, scholars, and the public, the center presents displays of the ancient city including models of the palace and the port area and reconstructions of ships and architectural elements, as well as a fine selection of historical objects. There’s an interesting section about the earliest foreigners in Ayutthaya. A good overview. Rojana Rd. Tel. 0 3524-5123-4. Admission 100B ($2.50). Mon–Fri 9am–4:30pm; Sat–Sun 9am–5pm.
Chandra Kasem Palace () A branch of the National Museum, the splendid Chandra Kasem Palace, was built in 1577 by King Maha Thamaraja (the 17th Ayutthaya monarch) for his son, who became King Naresuan. It was destroyed but later restored by King Mongkut, who stayed there whenever he visited Ayutthaya. On display are exquisite gold artifacts, jewelry, carvings, Buddha images, and domestic and religious objects from the 13th through 17th centuries.
) A branch of the National Museum, the splendid Chandra Kasem Palace, was built in 1577 by King Maha Thamaraja (the 17th Ayutthaya monarch) for his son, who became King Naresuan. It was destroyed but later restored by King Mongkut, who stayed there whenever he visited Ayutthaya. On display are exquisite gold artifacts, jewelry, carvings, Buddha images, and domestic and religious objects from the 13th through 17th centuries.
Northeast part of old city. Admission 30B (75¢).Wed–Sun 9am–noon and 1–4pm.
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| Chao Sam Phraya National Museum, Ayutthaya |
Chao Sam Phraya National Museum () Thailand’s second largest museum houses impressive antique bronze Buddha images, carved panels, religious objects, and other local artifacts. Close to the Ayutthaya Historical center and across from the TAT office. A comprehensive collection and a must-see in Ayutthaya.
) Thailand’s second largest museum houses impressive antique bronze Buddha images, carved panels, religious objects, and other local artifacts. Close to the Ayutthaya Historical center and across from the TAT office. A comprehensive collection and a must-see in Ayutthaya.
Rojana Rd. (11⁄2 blocks west of the center near the junction of Sri Sanphet Rd.).Tel. 0 3524-1587. Admission 30B (70¢).Wed–Sun 9am–4pm.
-RUINS.jpg "THE WATS (TEMPLES) & RUINS"){kind=small}
Ancient Palace (Grand Palace) Sometimes called Wang Luang, the palace lies in ruins having been completely destroyed by the Burmese in the late 1700s. Located in the northwestern section of the city, the foundations of the three main buildings can still be made out, and the size of the compound is impressive.
Northwestern quadrant of the city overlooking the Lopburi River. Daily 8am–6pm.
Wat Chaiwattanaram A long bike-ride from the other main temple sites just across the river to the southwest of the city, Wat Chai Wattanaram is an excellent example of Khmer architecture in the Ayuthaya period and still in good shape. You can climb to the steep steps of the central prang and have a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside. It’s so intact that you get a good idea what a working temple might have been like some 300 years ago.
.jpg "Wat Chaiwattanaram") |
| Wat Chaiwattanaram |
On the opposite bank of the Chao Phraya river far southwest of the town center. Admission 30B (75¢). Daily 8am–6pm.
Wat Mahathat The most striking of all of the temples in Ayuthaya and at the very heart of the city, Wat Mahathat, built in 1384 during the reign of King Rachatirat, is typical of the Ayuthaya ruins. Large crumbling stupas are surrounded by low laterite walls and rows of headless Buddhas. A great place at sunset and also where you can see the Buddha head in the tree trunk.
Opposite Wat Mahathat stands Wat Ratachaburana, built in 1424 and splendidly restored—the towering monuments (both rounded Khmer-style prangs and Sukhothai-style pointed chedis) have even retained some of their original stucco. In the two crypts, excavators have found bronze Buddha images and votive tablets, as well as golden objects and jewelry, many of which are displayed in the Chao Sam Phraya Museum. There are also murals, rows of seated Buddhas, standing disciples, and Jataka (tales from the Buddha’s former lives) scenes in the four niches, as well as a frieze of heavenly beings and some Chinese scenes. Both wats remain severely damaged despite restoration. Along Sikhun road near the terminus of Horattanachai and Naresuan. Admission 30B (75¢). Daily 8am–6pm.
Wat Na Phra Mane Located on the Lopburi side of the river, Wat Na Phra Mane survived Ayutthaya’s destruction and is worth visiting to see the black stone Buddha dating from the Mon (Dvaravati) period, as well as the principal Buddha decorated in regal attire. The building has stunning vaulted ceilings supported by ornate pineapple-shaped columns. It was the site of Thai-Burmese peace talks ending the years of aggression in the late 1700s.
Across the river north of the Grand Palace area. Admission 20B (50¢). Daily 8am–5pm.
.jpg "Wat Phra Sri Sanphet") |
| Wat Phra Sri Sanphet |
Wat Phra Sri Sanphet Originally built in 1448 as the king’s private chapel (the equivalent of the Wat Phra Kaeo, Temple of the Emerald Buddha, in Bangkok), Sri Sanphet is just south of the raised Grand Palace area. The buildings were renovated in the 16th and 17th centuries. The 17m (55-ft.) bronze standing Buddha was originally cast and covered in gold in 1500 during the reign of the ninth king, Ramathipodi. In 1767, the Burmese tried to melt the gold, causing a fire that destroyed the image and the temple; the one you see today is a replica. Nearby are three Sri Lankan-style chedis, built during the 15th century to enshrine the ashes of three Ayutthaya kings.
Just south of the Grand Palace ruin in the northwest end of the island. Admission 30B (75¢).
.jpg "Wat Yai Chai Mongkon") |
| Wat Yai Chai Mongkon |
Wat Yai Chai Mongkon Visible for miles around, the gold chedi of Wat Yai is surrounded by sitting Buddhas and one of the most stunning sites in town (though most of what is striking are recent additions). A long walk (or a short 20B/50¢ tuk-tuk ride) southeast of ancient Ayutthaya (across the river and out of town) gets you there. King U-Thong founded the temple in 1357 as a center for monks returning from study in Sri Lanka. The recently restored white reclining Buddha near the entrance was built by King Naresuan. The massive pagoda celebrates the defeat of the Burmese at Suphanburi in 1592 and King Naresuan’s defeat of the crown prince of Myanmar in an elephant joust.
East of Ayuthaya, across the Pridi Damrong Bridge and NW of the train station. Admission 20B (50¢). Daily 8am–6pm.
Wihaan Phra Mongkol Bopit Wihaan Phra Mongkol Bopit is home to
Thailand’s largest seated bronze Buddha. It’s housed in a somewhat cramped wihaan, built in 1956 in the style of the original, which was destroyed in 1767. This Buddha image was either brought from Sukhothai or copied from a Sukhothai image and was erected here in 1615 by King Ekatosarot, in honor of his brother Naresuan, who drove the Burmese from Sukhothai.
West of Wat Mahathat and just south of the Grand Palace area. Free admission.
Ayothaya Hotel The Ayothaya Hotel (same city, different spelling) has neat, clean, carpeted rooms—a basic low-end business standard notable more for a friendly and helpful front-desk staff than for the aging facility. The hotel is in the center of town along the main commercial thoroughfare near the popular backpacker street, Narasuan Road. Facilities are limited, but a convenient location makes easy in-and-out of Ayuthaya for a day of temple touring.
12 Moo Tessabarn Soi 2, Ayuthaya 13000 (just west of the ferry on the main street across from the market). Tel. 0 3523-2855. Fax 03525-1018. 117 units. 1,200B–1,500B ($29–$37) double; 3,500B ($85) suite. MC, V.
Amenities: Restaurant; small pool; Internet; massage; laundry. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, fridge, IDD phone.
Krungsri River Hotel This 10-year-old hotel is within walking distance of the train station and provides the best standard of comfort in town. The marble-floored and high-columned lobby is cool and spacious, with furniture arranged on Oriental rugs. Rooms are ample-sized, clean, and comfortable, with large, gray granite bathrooms—some with superb views of the river and sites (Note: ask for a nonsmoking room). The staff is professional and friendly. You’ll need to go by shuttle to the main sights, across the river, but this is a good base and has a clean and familiar coffee shop and a small pool.
7/2 Rojana Rd., Ayutthaya 13000 (northeast side of Pridi Damrong Bridge). Tel. 0 3524-4333. Fax 03524-3777. 212 units. 1,750B–2,350B ($43–$57) double; from 3,500B ($85) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities:
3 restaurants; beer garden and pub; pool; fitness center with sauna; game room; bowling alley; tour desk; small business center w/Internet; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.
Ayutthaya Guest House On busy Naresuan Rd, a small backpacker ghetto, Mr. Hong and family offer some of the best low-budget beds in Ayutthaya: a good place to meet other travelers headed north. If they’re full they’ll point you to something comparable (like BJ’s around the corner (Tel. 0 3525-1526). They have a good little garden restaurant and can rent bikes and arrange any tours. Though basic, it is the best choice for travel services and information.
12/34 Naresuan Rd, Ayutthaya 13000 (a short walk north of the in-town bus station). Tel. 0 3523-2650. 20 units. From 150B ($3.65) double w/fan; from 500B ($12) double w/A/C. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bike rental; tour information; laundry service. In room: No phone.
Bann KunPra A beautiful riverside teak house converted into comfortable guest quarters. The large, high-ceilinged rooms are furnished with antique tables and chairs as well as low futon-style beds. The place exudes old-time Siam charm: cozy and romantic but also authentically “rustic” with shared bathrooms. The central sitting area is comfortable and a group of friends could easily take the place over (rent all rooms). Their fine open-air restaurant is lit by candlelight and overlooks the river. There are also dorm rooms and cheaper guesthouse rooms.
48 Moo 3 U-Thong Rd., Ayutthaya 13000 (west bank of Pasak River north of Pridi Damron Bridge, across from train station). Tel. 0 3524-1978. 6 units. 250B–350B ($6–$8.50) double with shared bathroom. No credit cards. Amenities: Riverside restaurant; tour information. In room: No phone.
Especially if this is your first stop outside of Bangkok, don’t miss the town’s Night Market along the river in the northeast of town near the pier. Fresh produce, delicious Thai dishes (some stalls have English signs) and tasty Thai desserts not to be missed: find the “Pancake Lady” who makes decorative flapjacks of anything from dogs to dragons. If in search of something more familiar, the Pasak Coffee Shop (Tel. 0 3524-4333) is bright and airy and serves good Western and Thai dishes (see Krungsri River Hotel in “Where to Stay” above).
Pae Krung Kao/ The Floating Restaurant THAI/CHINESE Right along the river on low-floating pallets almost even with the water, diners have great views of passing boats and riverside life and the food is tops: typical Thai/Chinese stir-fry and curries. Bring your main squeeze because the atmosphere is just dreamy: a peaceful Chinese garden, a strumming balladeer who knows every song the Eagles ever sang, and candlelight at water’s edge.
4 Moo 2, U-Thong Rd. (west bank of Pasak River north of Pridi Damrong Bridge).Tel. 0 3525-1807. Main courses 60B–200B ($1.50–$4.90). MC, V. Daily 5–10pm.
Siam Restaurant THAI Just across from the large temple of Wat Mahathat, Siam Restaurant is a good spot to beat the mid-day heat in air-con, have a drink and enjoy a light meal while temple touring or, at days end, to visit a Wat Mahathat sunset and enjoy a cool drink after.
11/3 Pratuchai Rd, Ayuthaya 10003 (across from Wat Mahathat). Tel. 0 3521-1070. Main courses 70B–250B ($1.70–$6). MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm.
.jpg "ฺBang Pa-In Palace") |
| ฺBang Pa-In Palace |
.jpg "Lop Buri Province") |
| Lop Buri Province |
Lop Buri is along highway 1 just past Saraburi (connect with Lop Buri via Highway 3196 to Rte. 311). Numerous trains make daily connection with Lop Buri via Ayuthaya from Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Railway Station ('0-2223-0341-8 or 1690). It’s just 30B (75¢) for a third-class seat from Ayuthaya. Regular buses connect via Ayuthaya from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit; Tel. 0-2936-3659-60 , 0-2936-2825 Ext. 311).
The TAT Office is in a teak house built in the 1930s just a short walk from the train station (follow the signs) on Rop Wat Phra That Rd (Tel. 0 3642-2768-9). They have a useful map and can point you to the sites, all within walking distance and easily covered in a few hours.
Do Lop Buri in a circle (best clockwise as is prescribed in Buddhist ritual). From the train station, first drop off any big bags and hit Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat just out front. Built in 1257, Mahathat is a stunning ruin much like the temples of Ayuthaya (entrance 30B/75¢; daily 7am–5pm). On a small sidestreet just north of the temple, stopin to the 1930’s teak mansion housing the TAT office (follow signs) and pickup a map and advice.
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| King Narai's Palace |
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| Phra Prang Sam Yod, Lop Buri |
Reaching Sam Yod brings you full-circle, back to the train tracks just north of the station. If you’re in Lop Buri in late spring, ask about the occasional monkey banquets where a formal table is set for the little beasts who tear it to bits, no manners at all. Most days, monkeys are fed at a temple just east of Sam Yod, called Wat Phra Khan (across the train tracks) and it is worth seeing. The monkeys begin their day here, commute to nearby Sam Yod for tourist handouts and then make their way to a park further west of town for sleeping. This means that twice a day, a band of mischievous monkeys trapezes along the high wires and swoops down on town shopowners armed with sticks who keep a close eye on outdoor merchandise: a different kind of rush-hour altogether.
Just outside of the town center Wat San Paolo is a Jesuit monastery with Thailand’s first astronomy observation tower.
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| Monkeys on Phra Pran Sam Yod, Lop Buri |
It is important to take some safety precautions when watching wild monkeys and even more so with more conditioned animals as those in Lop Buri. Get close and get pictures, no problem, but don’t look the animals in the eye and, most importantly, do not have any loose items on your person or in vulnerable pockets, especially food, as it will certainly be lost and might start a riot in the losing. They are practiced thieves and can get aggressive if they are tempted. Monkeys, like all animals, treat you as one of their own, so if trouble arises, get ‘great ape’ on them and use your opposable thumbs to grab a stick as the locals do.
Few stay in little Lop Buri, instead make it a day-trip from Ayuthaya or a brief stop-over on the way to points north. If you do get stuck here, try the Lop Buri Inn (28/9 Naraimaharat Rd.; Tel. 0 3641-2300) with rooms for 1,000B ($24). There are lots of small open-air restaurants in and around town, none geared to tourists, but the best restaurant going is Taisawan Vietnamese Food (11/8 Sorasak Rd.; Tel. 0 3641-1881) just southeast of the main entrance to King Narai’s Palace. Delicious, spicy Vietnamese dishes like Bun Hoi, noodles and pork, or shrimp kebabs start at just 60B ($1.50). They’re always packed and kind to the few Farang (foreigners) that stumble in. The restaurant’s air-conditioning is great on a hot day.
377km (234 miles) N of Bangkok; 93km (58 miles) SE of Sukhothai Phitsanulok is a bustling agricultural center, with a population of 80,000, on the banks of the Nan River. Roughly equidistant from Chiang Mai and Bangkok, the city enjoys prosperity and some historic importance, but it is hectic, noisy and just a stopover for most.
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| Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, Phitsanulok |
Phitsanulok is the birthplace of King Naresuan (the Great). The Ayutthaya king is legendary in Thai history for his gallant defense against the forces of the invading Burmese army during the 16th century. There are many paintings of Naresuan in hand-to-hand combat, on elephant back, with a Burmese crown prince. Other Ayutthaya kings used Phitsanulok as a staging and training ground for battles with the Burmese, and for 25 years it served as the capital of the Ayutthaya kingdom.
When a tragic fire burned most of the city in 1959, one of the only buildings to survive was Wat Yai, famed for its unique statue of Buddha; the temple is now a holy pilgrimage site for Thai people. For travelers, Wat Yai is worth a visit if on the way west to Sukhothai or further to the Burmese border. Phitsanulok is famous for the Bangkaew Dog, a notoriously fierce and faithful breed prized throughout Thailand.
By Plane Thai Airways has three flights each day to Phitsanulok from Bangkok (flying time: 45 min.). Taxis cost 50B ($1.10) into town from the airport. The Thai Airways office is at 209/26–28 Boromtrailokanart Rd., Phitsanulok (Tel. 0 55 530-1002).
By Train About 10 trains per day travel between Phitsanulok and Bangkok. The trip time is about 6 hours and costs 199B–339B/$4.85–$8.25 for an airconditioned second-class seat. Sleeper berths run from 299B ($7.30) to 559B ($13.65) depending on the speed of the train. “Rapid” trains can take up to 9 hours so it is worth the expense to go “Express” or even “Sprinter” class. There are six daily connections between Phitsanulok and Chiang Mai (7 hr.; 190B–330B ($4.65–$8). For information and reservations, call Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Railway Station (Tel. 0-2223-0341-8 or 1690), Chiang Mai Railway Station (Tel. 05329-6048) or the Phitsanulok Railway Station (Tel. 0 5525-8005, 05524-4824). In front of the station in Phitsanulok, throngs of samlors (pedicabs) and regular motorcycle taxis wait to take you to your hotel. The station is right in town, so expect to pay only 30B–40B (75¢–$1) to get where you need to go. The bidding will start at around 100B ($2.45); smile and haggle.
By Bus Standard air-conditioned buses leave daily every hour for the trip to Phitsanulok from Bangkok, starting at 7am to 4:30pm (trip time: 6 hr.; 218B/$5.30). Buses depart from Chiang Mai in similar numbers (trip time: 6 hr.;216B/$5.25). Frequent non-air-conditioned buses connect with Sukhothai and cost just 23B (55¢). The intercity bus terminal in Phitsanulok is 2km (11⁄4 miles) east of town on Highway 12; city bus no. 1 will take you to or from the center of town as will any tuk-tuk or taxi for about 40B ($1). Contact Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 2936-2841), the Arcade Bus Station in Chiang Mai (Tel. 0 5324-2664), or the Phitsanulok Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 5524-2430).
By Minivan Travel to Sukhothai or on to Mae Sot can be arranged with Win Tour (Tel. 0 5523-0541).
By Car Take Highway 11 north from Bangkok.
The TAT office (Tel. 0 5525-2742-3) has maps and basic information and is located on Boromtrailokanart Road, 2 blocks south of the central clock tower and down a small side-street. The folks at the Phitsanulok Youth Hostel (see“Where to Stay,” below) also dispense with good info and maps (and rent-out bikes).
The town is fairly compact, with the majority of services and sights for tourists concentrated along or near the east bank of the Nan River. Naresuan road extends from the railway station and crosses the river from the east over the town’s main bridge. Wat Yai is north of the bridge and just a hitch north of busy Hwy. 12. The main market, featuring trinkets in the day and food stalls at night, is just south of the bridge on riverside Buddhabucha Road. One landmark is the clocktower at the southern end of the commercial district, Boromtrailokanart Road.
By Tuk-Tuk and Songtao Tuk-tuks (called taxis here) collect near the bus and train stations. Negotiate for an in-town fare as low as 30B/75¢. Songtao (covered pickup trucks) follow regular routes outside of town.
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| Phra Buddhachinarat, the most butiful Buddha image in Thailand |
By Hired Minivan Any hotel in Phitsanulok can arrange minivan tours in the area and to Sukhothai. Expect to pay at least 1,500B ($37) with driver.
By Rental Car If you’d like to tool around the plains on your own, Budget has a small operation at the airport. Call tel. 0 5525-8556 for reservations and information. Avis operates out of an office adjoining the Phitsanulok Youth Hostel (see “Where to Stay” below).
The Buddha Chinarat Festival is held annually on the sixth day of the waxing moon in the third lunar month (usually late Jan or early Feb). Then, Phitsanulok’s Wat Yai is packed with well-wishers, dancers, monks and abbots, children, and tourists, all converging on the temple grounds for a 6-day celebration.
There are several banks located along central Boromtrailoknart Road. The General Post Office (Tel. 0 5525-8013) is on Bhuddabucha Road, along the river 2 blocks north of Naresuan Road. The Overseas Call Office is on the second floor of the post office. Internet access has popped up here and there along the main streets of the town; service is mostly in small storefront video game centers and costs 15B (35¢) per hour. The tourist police (Tel. 0 5525-1179) is next to the TAT.
Amarin Lagoon Hotel If you’ve got your own wheels, the best and most attractive resort hotel in the area is the Amarin a few short clicks east of town on Highway 12. The location is a drawback, but rooms are spacious, attractive, and quiet. The hotel has a big handsome pool, a 24-hour cafe, and a basic fitness center on its manicured, open campus. Even so, I’d recommend Topland (see below) over the Amarin just in terms of location. It’s not a nice enough resort to keep you there full time.
52/299 Moo 6, Praongkhao Rd., Amphur Muang, Phitsanulok 65000 (on Hwy. 12 east of town).Tel. 0 5522-0999. Fax 05522-0944. 301 units. 1,000B–1,600B ($22–$39) double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; pool; fitness center; car-rental desk; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge.
Pailyn Phitsanulok Hotel The Pailyn, 1 block from the river, is a good choice for in-town lodging but more or less a business hotel that services the occasional large tour group. The bright marble lobby gives the place some panache and rooms are clean, fairly quiet for the location and done in textured wallpaper and rattan decor. Bathrooms are small and plain but all have tubs. Rooms are priced according to size and upper standards have slightly vaulted ceilings with a wooden veneer. Unfortunately, the helpful staff can get overworked if there are large tour groups. There’s a good coffee shop, a popular disco, sauna, and massage parlor—all the amenities of a basic Thai business hotel. Note: There are no double beds in any rooms.
38 Boromtrailokanart Rd., Phutsanulok 65000 (2 long blocks north of the road extending west from the train station, Naresuan Rd.). Tel. 0 5525-2411. Fax 05525-8185. www.pailynhotel.phitsanulok.com. 247 units. 1,100B ($26) single; 1,200B ($29) double; 2,200B–3,500B ($53–$85) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; sauna; tour desk, car-rental desk, limited room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; disco. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, IDD phone.
Phitsanulok Thani Hotel Not to be confused with the “Dusit Thani” (a Bangkok four-star), the Phitsanulok Thani is clean and comfortable: an international business hotel standard. Rooms are spacious and clean but bland. Bathrooms are neat but small. Suites are just larger versions of standard rooms. It’s a popular stop for big tour groups and though it’s located a bit out of the center of town, they provide shuttle service and it’s a short tuk-tuk ride from anywhere.
39 Sanambin Rd., Phitsanulok 65000 (4km/21⁄2 miles southeast of clock tower, about 1km (2⁄3 mile) from airport).Tel. 0 5521-1065. Fax 05521-1071. 110 units. 800B–1,200B ($20–$29) double; 2,000B–4,000B ($49–$98) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge and karaoke pub; pool; limousine service; business center; limited room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, safe.
Topland Hotel and Convention Center Adjoining the towns largest shopping center of the same name and ownership, the busy Topland is in fact the “top land” and number-one standard in Phitsanulok (wins it by inches). Located north of town center and a stones throw from Wat Yai, the hotel caters mostly to the higher-end domestic business market and conventions but is a familiar and comfortable standard for the casual traveler. Service is snappy but the lobby can be a pretty busy place at check-out time (not to mention when rowdy conventioneers take over the joint). Deluxe rooms still have that new-car smell and crown molding linking capped columns augments bland wallpaper and floral prints throughout for a classy feel. Bathrooms are large and done in marble counters and wood trim. Good basic amenities include a fine pool and adjoining shopping center.
68/33 Akathodsarod St., Phitsanulok 65000. Tel. 0 5524-7800. Fax 05524-7815. www.toplandhotel.com. 260 units. 1,250B ($30) standard double; 1,600B ($39) superior double; 1,800B ($44) business suite. AE, MC,V. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars (pub and snooker area); outdoor pool; small fitness center; spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; steam; tour desk; limousine service; shopping mall adjoining; salon; 24-hr. room service; meeting rooms; laundry service; dry cleaning; meeting rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
Phitsanulok Youth Hostel This hostel, known to locals as “No. 38,” is distinguished by its owner, Mr. Sapachai, a kind and informative host, who welcomes enthusiastic young travelers. Overlook the Spartan lodgings and come to make friends. Common areas, where basic breakfast is served daily, are surrounded by a densely planted garden. There are cozy hammocks about and it is a good place to do very little or get into that book you’ve been toting around. There’s one large dorm room and then five private rooms with either air-conditioning or fan. Fan rooms have adjoining bathrooms that are interesting bamboo and thatch additions where you can take a cold shower and see the stars. This is the best place for good local information and to rent a bicycle for touring.
38 Sanambin Rd., Phitsanulok 65000 (4km/21⁄2 miles southeast of clock tower, about 1km/2⁄3 mile from airport).Tel.0 5524-2060. Phitsanulok@tyha.org. 5 rooms, 40 beds. 120B ($2.90) dorm bed; 300B ($7.30) double w/fan; 500B ($12) double w/A/C. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bike rental; tour desk; laundry service. In room: No phone.
No real fine-dining options in Phitsanulok but lots of small local eateries in and around the train station. Be sure to try the local specialty, khaew tak, delicious sun-dried banana baked with honey; small packages are sold everywhere and cost just 30B (70¢). You won’t find much in the way of nightlife in Phitsanulok, but for a cool drink or a late snack to the accompaniment of noisy Thai Pop music, stop by The Tree House (Tel. 0 5521-2587), a small bar with adjoining garden area just across the road from the Phitsanulok Thani Hotel and the Phitsanulok Youth Hostel.
The Night Bazaar THAI Just opening up again at the time of this writing, the newly renovated riverside night bazaar is just south of the town center. As in any market, be cautious about hygiene and choose items that are cooked to order and not just sitting out. This is a great place to test your charade skills, point and smile and try to order what you want (or practice/learn some Thai). Many enjoy the “flying vegetables”—morning-glory greens sautéed, tossed high in the air, and adeptly caught by the chef. You can order a main dish at one stall, claim a table and then graze for side dishes and tasty desserts.
Just a short walk south of town center along Buddhabucha Road (closest road paralleling the Nan river’s east bank). Can’t miss it. Main courses 25B–80B (60¢–$1.95). Daily 6–10:30pm.
Pae Pha Thai Floating Restaurant THAI One of many similar places along the riverbank just opposite the main tour attraction, Wat Yai, this is arguably the best. It’s a friendly, casual eatery with no pretense, just good food and a fine view. Come with friends, cover the table with Thai dishes and fill the air with laughter. The English language menu is easy to follow. I shared an order of Tod Mun Plah (deep-fried fish cakes), pat kapow (chicken with basil and chili), Tom Yum soup and a whole fish encrusted with garlic and lemon: the kind of spread you might find in a Thai home and all the better at water’s edge.
Phuttabucha Rd. (on Nan River across from Wat Yai). Tel. 0 5524-2743. Main courses 70B–150B ($1.70–$3.65). MC, V. Daily 10am–11pm.
Most use Phitsanulok as a jumping-off point for Sukhothai, but there are a few sights in the town proper, Wat Yai the foremost among them (see below).
Buranathai Buddha Image Factory Just across the street and sponsored by Sgt. Maj. Thawee (see his museum below), this is an operational foundry where you can witness artisans casting bronze Buddha statues in the style of Wat Yai’s Buddha, Chinarat. A small display walks you through the bronze-casting process and the friendly staff will show you around. Wisutkasat Rd. just across from Sgt. Major Thawee Museum (about a 20-min. walk south and west from the train station and accessed by local bus no. 3). Free admission. Daily 8am–5pm.
The Sgt. Maj. Thavee Folk Museum This small, meticulously landscaped campus of low-slung pavilions houses a private collection of antique items from Thai rural life. Farming and trapping equipment, household items, and old photographs of the city are lovingly displayed by the good sergeant major with good descriptions in English. A good primer for a trip out into the countryside where one still finds many such aged implements in use.
26/43 Wisutkasat Rd. (about a 20-min. walk from the train station and accessed by local bus no. 3). Tel. 0 5525-8715. Suggested donation 40B ($1). Tues–Sun 8:30am–4:30pm.
Wat Chulamanee The oldest temple in the Phitsanulok area and the site of the original city, Wat Chulamanee is still an active monastery. The temple was restored in the 1950s and is studied particularly for its fine laterite cactus-shaped prang and the elaborate stucco designs decorating the structure.
South of the Nakorn Sawan Highway on Boromtrailkoranart Rd. and accessible by local bus no. 4. Suggested donation 20B (50¢). Daily 6am–7pm.
Wat Yai Its full name is Wat Phra Sri Ratana Mahatat, but most know it as Wat Yai and it is one of the holiest Buddhist temples in the country for its highly revered image of the Buddha. The brilliant and powerful late Sukhothai period Phra Buddha Chinarat statue is a bronze image cast in 1357 under the Sukhothai king Mahatmmaracha; its most distinctive feature is its flamelike halo (mandorla), which symbolizes spiritual radiance. This image serves as a model /for ideal representations of the Buddha in contemporary statue factories, and only the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok is more highly revered by the Thai people.
The wihaan that houses this illustrious Buddha is a prize example of traditional Thai architecture, with three eaves, overlapping one another to emphasize the nave, and graceful black and gold columns. Don’t miss the excellent late Ayutthaya period, mother-of-pearl inlaid doors leading into the chapel; similar to those in Bangkok’s Royal Chapel, they were added in 1576 as a gift from King Borommakot of Ayutthaya. Inside, also note the Italian marble floor, the two painted thammas (pulpits) to one side, and murals illustrating the life of Buddha. Other than the main bot, the wat’s most distinctive architectural aspect is the Khmer-style prang, rebuilt by King Boromtrilokanart, that houses the relic from which the wat takes its name; Mahathat means “Great Relic.” The gilding on the top half is probably recent, but it complements the Khmer temple decor. There’s
a small museum that houses a good collection of Sukhothai-and Ayutthaya-era Buddhas.
The wat is always packed with worshippers paying their respects, making offerings, and praying for a healthy mind and body. Conservative dress is suggested (but not strictly enforced). During the winter Buddha Chinarat Festival, it’s transformed into a cultural circus (See “Special Events,” above). After your visit here, a short walk south along Buddhabucha Rd. gives glimpses of river life in Song Kwai, a small floating village of moored houseboats. 1 block north of the Highway 12 bridge and just a short walk east of the river. Suggested donation of 50B ($1.20). Daily 6am–6pm (during the Buddha Chinarat Festival 6am–midnight); the museum is open Wed–Sun 9am–4pm.
Sukhothai: 427km (265 miles) N of Bangkok; 58km (36 miles) E of Phitsanulok
Si Satchanalai: 56km (35 miles) N of Sukhothai
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| Sukhothai Historical Park |
The Sukhothai Historical Park, the main attraction, is situated 12km
(71⁄2 miles) west of the town of Sukhothai, also known as “New Sukhothai” to differentiate it from the old city. There are a few little guesthouses outside of the park gates, but most will commute to the sites from good accommodation in New Sukhothai. Si Satchanalai, far north of New Sukhothai, is another legacy of the Sukhothai Kingdom. The ancient city is crumbling and that’s part of its charm really; certainly worth the 1-day detour.
If you’re traveling from Phitsanulok, the drive takes you across wide plains of rice paddies, cotton fields, and mango and lemon groves. Though some farmers have purchased tractors (which locals call the “iron buffalo”), some still use traditional methods, water buffalo and manual plow.
By Plane Bangkok Airways has a private airport near Sukhothai. They have at least one daily flight connecting Bangkok, Sukhothai, and Chiang Mai. Contact them in Bangkok at tel. +66 (2) 270 6699, Chiang Mai at tel. +66 (53) 289 338-9, or at the airport at tel. 053 270 224, 053 270 222, 053 270 223. They have an office at Pailyn Sukhothai Hotel and will arrange transport by minivan upon request.
By Train Phitsanulok has the nearest railroad station (see “Phitsanulok,” above).
By Bus Three daily standard air-conditioned buses leave from Bangkok
(trip time: 7 hr.; 256B/$6.25), departing from the Northern Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 2936-2841). There’s also air-conditioned bus service from Chiang Mai six times daily (trip time: 51⁄2 hr.; 171B–220B /$4.15–$5.35) from the Arcade Bus Station (Tel. 0 5324-2664).
By Local Bus from Phitsanulok Buses leave hourly for New Sukhothai (trip time: 1 hr.; 30B/75¢) from the intercity terminal on Highway 12
By Car Take Singhawat Road east from Phitsanulok, then Highway 12.
Sukhothai has no TAT office; the closest one is in Phitsanulok (Tel. 0 5525-2742). New Sukhothai is a friendly town, not large enough to get lost in for long, and you can negotiate your own tour with a tuk-tuk driver. Most hotels and guesthouses can also help you arrange a tour. Talk to the folks at Ban Thai (see “Where to Stay,” below) for do-it-yourself info. You can pickup an information booklet for 50B ($1.20) at the museum.
New Sukhothai, built along the banks of the Yom River, offers a few good hotels and useful services and is the access point for Sukhothai Historical Park (or Muang Kao, Old City) some 12km (71⁄2 miles) east of New Sukhothai center.
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| Si Satchanalai Historic Park |
Loi Krathong is a visually delightful, 3-day festival held on the full moon of the 12th lunar month (usually Oct/Nov) in honor of the water spirits. Around the country, crowds gather at ponds, klongs, rivers, and temple fountains to float small banana-leaf boats bearing candles, incense, a flower, and a coin. This is done as an offering and to wash away the previous year’s sins. Since this festival dates from the Sukhothai era, celebrations (including a parade, fireworks, and beauty pageant) are widespread throughout the province.
Lotus Village This is the best marriage of convenience and atmosphere in Sukhothai, a very stylish guesthouse (did someone say “boutique”?) and not pretentious. Garden paths connect an eclectic selection of accommodation, anything from basic guesthouse rooms to teak floor, semi-luxe numbers. Spring for the large, sturdy air-con rooms done in polished wood or one in the two-story pavilions toward the back. Owned by a Franco-Thai husband-and-wife team, they offer certified guides and drivers for a day at the temples and cozy dining in a rustic, colonial-style common area. Though quiet, the Lotus is just a short walk from New Sukhothai’s large, local market and town center.
170 Ratchathanee Street, Sukhothai 64000 (short walk north along the river from the main market). Tel.0 5562-1484. Fax 05562-1463. www.lotus-village.com. 28 units. 500B ($12) fan room; 900B–1,000B ($22–$24) A/C room. Cash only. Amenities: Small restaurant; tour desk; car rental; laundry service. In room: Fridge and minibar in top standard only, no phone.
Pailyn Sukhothai Hotel About halfway along the 12km (71⁄2 miles) stretch of road between town and temples, this roadside resort is bright, modern, and the most luxurious Sukhothai has to offer. It’s self-contained enough to compensate for the location. Beyond the rattan and granite lobby, an elevator leads to comfortable, carpeted rooms built in two four-story sextagonal wings, one of which encircles a small pool and sun deck. Rates vary according to room size and amenities; higher rates bring minibars and TVs. The suites are enormous but their bathrooms are surprisingly small. The food in the Thai/Chinese and Continental restaurant is very good, attracting locals as well as hotel guests.
10/2 Moo 1, Jarodvithithong Rd., Sukhothai 64210 (4km/21⁄2 miles east of historical park, 8km/5 miles from the town center).Tel. 0 5561-3310. Fax 05561-3317. 238 units. 800B ($18) double; from 1,200B ($27) suite. MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; disco; pool; fitness center; sauna; tour desk; limited room service; massage; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge.
Suwatdipong Hotel You won’t be inspired to poetry about your stay at this basic little spot, but it is a cozy step-up from the few guesthouses in town. A step-up means sponge mattresses with clean linen, a small TV with Thai programming in an air-conditioned, tidy tile room. Bathrooms are the shower-in-room variety (one big room with hose and a drain). Lobby staff is almost comically indifferent. The Suwatdipong beats out its nearby competitors (River View Hotel and Northern Palace hotel) only by virtue of recent renovations, nothing else. Time will tell. Ask to see the room first.
56/2-5 Singhawat Rd., Sukhothai 64000 (along the town’s main commercial artery paralleling the river). Tel. 0 5561-1567. Fax 05561-2268. 50 units. 500B–600B ($12–$15) double. Amenities: Restaurant/bar; laundry. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, phone.
Ban Thai Guesthouse Ban Thai (Thai house) is the best budget choice in Sukhothai proper (just across the canal from town center). The friendly staff is so well informed that even if you don’t stay here you’ll want to drop in, have a fruit shake and peruse maps and their helpful advice book. It’s conveniently located, scrupulously clean, and has a small, lushly planted garden with a Thai-style open pavilion where travelers of all ages sit around and swap stories. The A-frame teak bungalows with private toilets and bathrooms (cold water only) are the best choice for comfort, but basic guesthouse rooms in the one-story modern house with shared bathroom are adequate and share a peaceful little balcony area. If they are full (and they often are), they’ll send you a short walk in the right direction to something comparable.
38 Pravet Nakhon Rd., Sukhothati 64000 (on the west side of Yom River, 1km/2⁄3 mile northwest of bus station, 300m/984 ft. south of bridge). Tel. 0 5561-0163. 17 units. 130B ($3.20) double w/shared bathroom; 200B ($4.90) bungalow. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bike rental; tour desk; laundry service. In room: No phone.
Like most small cities and towns in Thailand, you can find good eats at the central market from early ‘til late. Over and above that, try Ban Thai Guesthouse (see “Where to Stay” above) for tasty and affordable Thai cuisine. There is one restaurant in town that’s just head and shoulders above the rest:
Dream Café 
INTERNATIONAL A cozy little cavern of a place, done in teak and stucco, laced with vines and bathed in warm, soft light. It looks as much like an antique store as a restaurant and features a funky collection of ceramics, copperware, memorabilia, glass, textiles, and old jewelry: a visual feast (like an Asian TGI Fridays). Besides the Thai dishes, including many family recipes, Dream also serves excellent European and Chinese cuisine. Try the Sukhothai Fondue, a “cook-it-yourself ” hot-pot of meat, veggies, and noodles. Save room for an ice-cream sundae.
INTERNATIONAL A cozy little cavern of a place, done in teak and stucco, laced with vines and bathed in warm, soft light. It looks as much like an antique store as a restaurant and features a funky collection of ceramics, copperware, memorabilia, glass, textiles, and old jewelry: a visual feast (like an Asian TGI Fridays). Besides the Thai dishes, including many family recipes, Dream also serves excellent European and Chinese cuisine. Try the Sukhothai Fondue, a “cook-it-yourself ” hot-pot of meat, veggies, and noodles. Save room for an ice-cream sundae.
86/1 Singhawat Rd., Sukhothai (center of new city).Tel. 0 5561-2081. Main courses 80B–200B ($2–$5). V.Daily 10am–midnight.
In 1978, UNESCO named Sukhothai a target for preservation of world culture and heritage, along with Venice, Borobudur, Mohenjo-Daro, Carthage, and Nubia. In 1988, the Thai government, international and regional archaeologists, and art historians under the direction of the Fine Arts Department, with financial assistance from UNESCO, completed the preservation of these magnificent monuments and an excellent museum in one large park.
GETTING THERE You can reach the historic park of Sukhothai by public bus, a three-wheeled motorcycle taxi (called a samlor), or private car. On Jarodvhithithong Road, west of the traffic circle, you can catch an open-air public bus to the park entrance for 10B (25¢). The samlors, that cruise around New Sukhothai can be hired to trek you out to the monuments and for a 3-hour tour around the park for about for 300B ($7.30).
TOURING THE SITE Early morning and evening bring fewer buses and groups, and the site is cooler and more serene. A basic map is available at the museum but the best maps are to be found at the bicycle rental shops near the entrance. The historical park is open daily 6am to 6pm; admission is 40B (90¢) to the central area within the park walls, with additional charges of 30B (70¢) each to visit the areas outside the walls to the north, east, and west. You can purchase a combination ticket with admission to the National Museum, Historic Park (all areas), Si Satchanali National Park and Sawanvorangayok National Museum for 150B ($3.65)—good value.
On Foot If you’re walking, the sites outside the park will make for a long day. Start at the museum and from there the central sites in and around Wat Mahatat are accessible on foot, but I recommend a bicycle for anything further afield. Buy plenty of water at the entrance if you do go for a wander.
By Bicycle The best method of exploration here. The area is flat, and cycling is easy. Bikes give you the freedom to go where you want but are quiet and slow enough to let you take it all in. Rent them from one of the many stalls right outside the park gate (across from the museum) for 20B (50¢) per day.
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| Loy Kra Thong festival, Sukhothai |
By Tram Several beige trams wait in front of the museum to take visitors around. They circle the major sites (20B/50¢) in about half an hour, returning you to the museum entrance.
A network of walls and moats defines the perfect rectangle that is the central city. It is thought that the original moat connected Sukhothai with Si Satchanalai. The Phitsanulok-Sukhothai highway runs right through the east or Kam Phang Hak Gate to the museum, a good beginning.
RAMKAMHAENG NATIONAL MUSEUM The museum houses a detailed model of the area, and an admirable display of Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai archaeological finds largely culled from the private collection of the abbot of Wat Ratchathani. It’s located in the center of the old city, opposite the historic park’s pedestrian gate. Before exploring the temple sites, stop here for maps and information. It’s open Wednesday through Sunday 9am to 4pm (closed Mon–Tues, and public holidays); admission is 30B (70¢).
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| Sukhothai Historic Park |
THE ROYAL PALACE Between the museum and Wat Mahatat are the remains of the Royal Palace. Although this once-grand complex contained the throne and stone inscription of King Ramkamhaeng (there’s a copy in the Ramkamhaeng Museum; the original is in the National Museum in Bangkok), today it’s a shambles.
WAT SRI SAWAI Southwest of the palace you’ll come to the 12th-century Wat Sri Sawai, a Hindu shrine later converted to a Buddhist temple. The architecture is distinctly Khmer, with three Lopburi-style prangs commanding center stage. The viharns around the central prangs (cactus-shaped towers) are of more traditional Sukhothai design.
OTHER MONUMENTS IN THE PARK Circling north, just west of Wat Mahatat, is Wat Traphang Ngoen, set in its own pond. Though little remains other than an attractive chedi, the vistas of the surrounding monuments are among the most superb in the park. North past Wat Mahatat, is Wat Chana Songkram, where there’s a Sri Lankan–style stupa of note. Nearby is Wat Sra Si, with a Sri Lankan chedi and viharn set on a small island in Traphang Takuan pond. Take a moment to examine the stucco Buddha in the fore viharn.
LUNCH AT THE HISTORICAL PARK There are a number of small storefront eateries in and among the bike rental shops and souvenir hawkers at the gate of the park (just across from Ramkamhaeng Museum). Try The Coffee Cup which serves-up a reasonable facsimile of a sandwich and standard Thai dishes like fried rice and noodles in a range of 30B–60B (75¢–$1.45).
Small sites and ruins dot the landscape around the ancient city walls, but the best option is to head to the north and northwest areas. If you didn’t buy the combination ticket, you’ll have to pay 30B (70¢) entry at each site. The sites are open 8am to 4:30pm.
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| Buddha image at Wat Si Chum |
Wat Si Chum 
houses one of the more astonishing and beautiful monuments in Sukhothai: a majestic 15m (50-ft) -tall seated Buddha, in the mudra (pose) of Subduing Mara (evil). When the narrow passageway to the top was open you could admire the 700-year-old slate reliefs within. Don’t let fatigue deter you from seeing this celebrated image. You’ll find it on the north end of the compound and may catch site of the many kiln remains in and among the trees on the way there. For the adventurous, cycle (or motor) the few kilometers west to Wat Saphan Hin, a 198m (660-ft.) hilltop ruin visible for miles. It’s well worth the steep, 5-minute climb to study the towering Phra Attaros Buddha, a 12m (41-ft.) –tall figure, his right hand raised in the Dispelling Fear mudra, which towers above the wat’s laterite remains.
houses one of the more astonishing and beautiful monuments in Sukhothai: a majestic 15m (50-ft) -tall seated Buddha, in the mudra (pose) of Subduing Mara (evil). When the narrow passageway to the top was open you could admire the 700-year-old slate reliefs within. Don’t let fatigue deter you from seeing this celebrated image. You’ll find it on the north end of the compound and may catch site of the many kiln remains in and among the trees on the way there. For the adventurous, cycle (or motor) the few kilometers west to Wat Saphan Hin, a 198m (660-ft.) hilltop ruin visible for miles. It’s well worth the steep, 5-minute climb to study the towering Phra Attaros Buddha, a 12m (41-ft.) –tall figure, his right hand raised in the Dispelling Fear mudra, which towers above the wat’s laterite remains.
Ancient Si Satchanalai developed between the Yom River and the Khao Phra Si Valley, on more than 320 hectares (800 acres) of land. The 91 hectares (228 acres) contained within the old laterite ramparts and moats of the city wall are the focus of sightseeing in the historical park and are best reached as a day trip from Sukhothai.
A LOOK AT THE PAST Although a stone inscription found at Sukhothai refers to Si Satchanalai as a protectorate of King Ramkhamhaeng (possibly its founder), most historians believe that Rama I expanded a city that was built by Khmer settlers, and which was well established by the 13th century, or even earlier. During the Ayutthaya period the town was named Sawankhalok (now the nearest modern town) because of the area’s highly prized product, the famous celadon ceramics, which were exported throughout Asia. Si Satchanalai’s riverside site was crucial to the development of the ceramics industry; there were literally more than 1,000 kilns operating along the river. These kilns have been excavated by a Thai-Australian team, led by archaeologists from the University of Adelaide. Their findings contradict the prevailing view that Chinese traders brought the method of producing celadon to Sukhothai in the 13th century. Instead they hypothesize that ceramic manufacture began more than 1,000 years ago at Ban Ko Noi (there’s a small site museum 6km/33⁄4 miles north of Satchanalai), strong evidence that it’s an indigenous Thai art form.
TOURING THE SITE Taking Route 101 north from Sukhothai through sugarcane and tobacco fields, one must cross the Yom River to enter the historical park’s central city. The remains of the 22 monuments inside the old city rank well below those of Sukhothai in importance, yet the crumbling grandeur of the buildings and the relative isolation of the site add to its allure. A taxi, private car, or guided tour is the best way to see the spread-out sites of Si Satchanalai. Your hotel or guesthouse can arrange this trip for around 500B ($10). However, public buses to Si Satchanalai depart every half-hour from the bus stop on Jarodvithitong Road just east of the traffic circle for 18B (45¢). It’s not a bad idea to have your hotel or guesthouse make you a Paddington Bear “I am lost” tag saying where you’d like to go. I recommend stopping near the cable
bridge some 2km (11⁄4 miles) from the site. From here, you can rent a bicycle for 30B (75¢) per day. If you carry-on up the road, you can enter at the front gate of the park and rent bicycles (better quality ones in fact) but the ride across the bridge and along the river is a joy. Wat Mahatat is located just across the bridge and they will ask for a 10B (25¢) entrance fee. If you don’t want to visit, feign ignorance and cycle-on. Enterprising locals have organized an elephant ride around the park (three passengers fit in the howdah, one rides the neck, and the mahout sits on the head). It costs 100B ($2.40) per person for 30 minutes. Admission to the park is 40B (90¢) (free if you purchased the combination
ticket in Sukhothai), and they offer a useful map and pamphlet for 5B (10¢). It is open daily except national holidays 8am to 5pm.
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| Wat Chang Lom, Si Satchanalai |
WAT CHANG LOM This compound, to the right of the entrance, is distinctly Sri Lankan, with a characteristic stupa and 39 laterite elephant buttresses. It’s unusual to find so many elephant sculptures still intact. You can walk around the base of the stupas and admire the 19 Buddhas that are installed in niches above the terrace. The discovery of the Buddha’s relics at the site during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng prompted the construction of this temple, an event described in stone inscriptions found at Sukhothai.
WAT CHEDI CHET THAEW Opposite Wat Chang Lom to the south, within sandstone walls, is Wat Chedi Chet Thaew. Like Wat Mahatat at Sukhothai, this wat is distinguished by a series of lotus-bud towers and rows of chedis thought to contain the remains of the royal family. The chedis are adorned with 33 Buddha images and other stucco decorative images, and some have traces of color.
.jpg "Wat Chedi Chet Thaew") |
| Wat Chedi Chet Thaew |
Kang Sak Restaurant is the best choice near the temples. Serving good Thai food, they cater to busloads here so there’s lots of room and many lovely spots on terraces overlooking the Yom River (be sure to walk all the way to the waters edge). It’s just 1km (2⁄3-mile south of the park entrance) and very affordable (40B–120B/$1–$3). Just 300m (1,050 ft.) from the entrance, Wang Yom is an oversize Thai house also catering to the tour crowds with comparable fare.
Private transport will enable you to wander at will around the hundreds of archaeological sites and kilns that dot the landscape. Wat Khao Phanom Ploeng, a nearby hill topped by two wat compounds, offers an excellent vantage of the historic city from the top of its steep 112-step staircase. The hill overlooks a large grove of trees that are sanctuary to a group of white cranes.
There are a number of small “antique” dealers in Sukhothai selling statuary and replicas of the ancient celadon pottery famed in the region. Don’t buy into any dealer claims of authenticity. Any genuine archaeological find, especially the “whole” pieces you’ll be offered, reside in museums. You’ll see some convincing fakes though: pieces that have all been “worried” by calculated scuffs and scraps, then soaked in tea and buried to earn the moniker “antique.” That said, you can pickup good replicas made in the elegant celadon tradition. Try the Boonchew Antique Shop in the Sukhothai Cultural Center (2km/11⁄4 miles east of the historical park at 214 Jarodvithithong Rd.; Tel. 0 5561-2275), Kingdom of Fathers Ceramics (1/29 Moo 3, Tambon Muang-Kao; Tel. and fax 05561-2180) or any of the many small storefronts near the park entrance. At Si Satchanalai, Reethai Antique (68/2 Sawankhalok; Tel.0 5567-9217) is on the riverside road just a few hundred yards south of the entrance.
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.jpg "Tak map") |
| Tak map |
Few travelers visit out-of-the-way Tak Province, and the tourists you’ll meet up this way are commonly of the heartier variety or on a humanitarian mission to work with Burmese refugees. Tak province is known to Thais for the Bhumipol Dam, the country’s largest, and for having the hottest weather in Thailand.
Short of a visit during the Taksin Festival (see “Special Events,” below), few stop in the Province’s capital of the same name, Tak; instead most wayfarers proceed directly to Mae Sot along the Myanmar border. Cooled by surrounding forested hills, the town of Mae Sot is popular with vacationing Thais in the hot spring weather and draws foreign travelers seeking a dose of Burmese culture and bordertown bustle. There are numerous refugee camps and aid facilities in and around town and even a short visit here makes many an advocate for reform in Myanmar and for further assistance to Burmese political refugees in Thailand.
By Plane There’s an airport in Tak, but these days routes to and from the city aren’t running. Air Andaman (Tel. 02535-6231) has four flights a week to Mae Sot from Bangkok.
By Bus Four buses to Tak leave daily from Bangkok (trip time 7 hr.; 245B($5.50), and three buses to Mae Sot (trip time 8 hr.; 310B/$6.90) from the
Northern Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 2936-2841). Government buses leave daily from Phitsanulok’s bus terminal (Tel. 0 5524-2430) to Tak (departures every hr.; trip time 3 hr.; 44B/$1) and to Mae Sot (eight buses; trip time: 5 hr.; 88B/$2). Privately operated minivans connect Tak and Mae Sot, leaving when they get a full van (about every half-hour). Trip time is 11⁄2 hours; 44B ($1). Arranging a bus from Mae Sot for onward travel is confusing because there are different stations for all points of the compass. Ask at your hotel or at Mae Sot Conservation Tours (415 Intarakeeree Rd.; &and fax 05553-2818) to make onward arrangements. From the bus terminals in either Tak or Mae Sot motorcycle taxis, samlor, and songtao wait to take you to your hotel for about 30B to 40B (75¢–$1).
By Car Take Highway 1 north from Bangkok to Tak. From Phitsanulok, take Route 12 west to Tak, then Route 105 west to Mae Sot.
Tak has a new TAT office near the bus terminal, 193 Taksin Rd. (Tel. 0 5551-4341), in an attempt to boost tourism to the area. Most of the information is geared toward Thai nationals or those with a vehicle (good regional maps). All of the hotels and restaurants hand out maps of the town and Krua Canadia (see “Dining” below) has an information booth and is a good crossroads for travelers.
Every January a provincial festival is held in Tak to honor King Taksin the Great. The streets around his shrine (on Taksin Rd. at the north side of town) fill with clothes, produce, and food vendors and stalls piled high with Thai sweets and cakes. Dancers, musicians, and monks come out to celebrate. The shrine is showered with floral wreaths and decked out in gold fabric to impress the Thais who come from afar to pay their respects.
There are many banks and services in Tak. In Mae Sot, Siam Commercial Bank has a branch just opposite the entrance to First Hotel on Sawanwithy (see “Where to Stay” below) and Thai Military Bank (with ATM service) is on the central thoroughfare, Prasawithee Rd. A post office is on Intharakiri Road opposite DK Hotel (see below) just east of the police station. Internet is best at Southeast Tours at 522/3 Intharakiri (Tel. 0 5554-7048), west of the police station.
TAK
Few stay in Tak and I recommend you push on to Mae Sot if you’ve come this far. If you somehow get stuck, the best choice in Tak is the Viang Tak Hotel 2, a surprisingly plush hotel with all the basic amenities, a restaurant and small pool. Just a 5-minute tuk-tuk jaunt from the bus terminal at 236 Chumphon Rd. (Tel. 0 5551-1910) Price: 550B–900B ($12–$20) double. Accepts all cards.
MAE SOT
There are a number of inexpensive guesthouses in Mae Sot, but most are really shabby. If you’re in a pinch, try Green Guesthouse (Tel. 0 5553-3207) down a small lane behind the police station. Clean, basic rooms; no more, no less.
Central Mae Sot Hill Hotel This contemporary four-story hotel is built in two long wings fanning out from a classy open atrium lobby. This is the best around by far (better than even the hotels in Sukhothai) and a good, comfortable base from which to explore the area (always nice to have a good room and hot shower after, say, a day trip in Myanmar or multiday adventure in Umpang). Hotel staff is helpful and can arrange tours and onward travel. All comfortable rooms have modern amenities and nice views over the mist-shrouded, wooded hills. The Mae Sot Hills lures large group tours that come to enjoy the pool and tennis courts. Local songtao connect along the highway to town or to the border.
This contemporary four-story hotel is built in two long wings fanning out from a classy open atrium lobby. This is the best around by far (better than even the hotels in Sukhothai) and a good, comfortable base from which to explore the area (always nice to have a good room and hot shower after, say, a day trip in Myanmar or multiday adventure in Umpang). Hotel staff is helpful and can arrange tours and onward travel. All comfortable rooms have modern amenities and nice views over the mist-shrouded, wooded hills. The Mae Sot Hills lures large group tours that come to enjoy the pool and tennis courts. Local songtao connect along the highway to town or to the border.
100 Asia Hwy., Mae Sot, Tak 63110 (17km/101⁄2 miles west of border).Tel. 0 5553-2601. Fax 05553-2600. 114 units. 2,000B ($49) double; 2,500B–5,000B ($61–$122) suite. MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; disco; lounge; 2 pools; 2 outdoor tennis courts; limited room service; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge.
DK Hotel Nothing ritzy about these large, basic tile floor rooms. High ceilings, firm mattresses and shower-in-room baths are the only ingredients in this spartan stop. Pick a higher floor away from busy traffic. Common areas and some rooms are downright dismal, but it’s a far better choice than any guesthouse in town. You overlook a busy market area not far from the town center (near the police station). Friendly staff can help arrange bicycle rental.
298/2 Intarakeeree Rd., Maesot, Tak 63110.Tel. 0 5553-1378. 250B ($6) double w/fan; 450B ($11) double w/A/C. Cash only. Amenities: Laundry. In room: A/C (some), TV.
First Hotel At the time of this writing, the eccentric First Hotel was being given a complete aesthetic overhaul. Already like a giant wood-carved wedding cake, renovations to this place just promise more pomp and filigree and will take it over the top. It is in fact that very over-done quality which draws local status-seekers in luxury cars as well as curious tourists: a guaranteed memorable stay. Corridors are marble, with intricate three-dimensional woodwork carvings of crazy flora and fauna creeping up every wall and dripping from paneled ceilings. Rooms carry the same theme throughout, with carved wood furniture and marble bathrooms—most unusual for this price category and worth a visit.
444 Intharakiri Rd., Mae Sot, Tak 63110 (just north of the main intersection in town, across from the Thai Commercial Bank). Tel. 0 5553-1233. Fax 05553-1340. 45 units. 450B ($10) double w/A/C; 270B ($6) double w/fan. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, no phone.
Khaomao-Khaofang Restaurant It doesn’t get any more surreal than this little oasis along the Burmese border. This place is surprisingly “high-end” for this remote stretch of highway. Ponds overgrown with lush jungle vegetation surround an enormous central thatched pavilion; itself supported by gnarled old jungle trunks with designs done in natural material (or concrete made to look like natural material) so the whole place seems like a big jungle swamp with moss walls and a central fountain. A wooden walkway and platforms at pond-side overlook the surrounding country. From the outside it’s all manicured lawns and heel-clicking guards and valet service. The walls are lined with portraits of dignitaries and famous Thai visitors. Be sure to go to the bathroom, even if you don’t have to; these water closets are large grottos with urinals at odd heights and stalactites hanging from the ceiling. Oh, and there’s food. Delicious Thai cuisine, a survey course of the whole country, and heavy on good curries and authentic spice. Portions are small so order-up a few dishes. There are always daily specials. It’s worth a visit if only for the novelty.
382 Moo 9, Maepa, Maesod, Tak 63110 (head for the Myanmar border and turn north just before the checkpoint and follow the highway 2km/11⁄4 mile). Tel. 0 5553-2483. Fax 05553-3607. Main courses 60B–180B ($1.50–$4.50). AE, MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm.
Krua Canadian The name is Thai for “Canadian kitchen” and that’s just how it feels, like you’ve been invited into the home of Canadian Dave and his wife Chulee. From this simple, central storefront they serve delicious breakfasts, local coffee and a unique tofu burger that is messy and delicious. Drop-in just for a drink and pickup a map of the town and advice on local happenings.
3 Sripanich Rd. Mae Sot (across from the police station). Tel. 0 5553-4659. Main course 50B–150B ($1.20–$3.65). No credit cards. Daily 7am–10pm.
Mae Sot is perched on the Burmese border and the area is always buzzing with trade. There is a dark side to it all though: trade means not just the movement of produce and crafts but drugs and precious stones won on the backs of oppression. Trade also means human trafficking, particularly in young women. There’s something disquieting about the many European luxury cars parked in front of two-story brick homes lining this village’s main street, all the luxury of illegal profiteers.
The border also sees big movements of refugees and there are a number of camps in the surrounding hills. Dr. Cynthia Maung, known to many as the Mother Theresa of Myanmar, runs just such a large clinic and refugee camp on the outskirts of Mae Sot and treats the thousands who cross this border in search of help. The camp is not open to visitors, but there are ways to get involved. Contact them at: P.O. Box 67, Mae Sot, Tak 63110 (Tel. 0 5553-3644; www.myanmarcare.org.)
Being a border-town though does mean that Mae Sot has a surplus of Burmese woven cotton blankets, lacquerware items, jewelry, newly made bronze Buddhas, cotton sarongs, and wicker ware. Trade is conducted in Thai Bot, U.S. dollars or Myanmar Kyat. Be careful about buying any gems unless you know what you’re doing; most come away with only a handful of plastic and a dent in their wallet.
The border between Mae Sot (at the town of Rim Moei) and Myawaddy, Myanmar, is open daily 8am to 5:30pm, and you can cross the bridge over to Myanmar on foot or in a car with an on-the-spot day visa for 410B ($10). Many visitors cross for a day just for a glimpse of Burmese culture (and a cool passport stamp).
Trekking and rafting in this remote and still unspoiled area is gaining popularity (not unspoiled much longer really). Many of the guesthouses and travel storefronts tout magnificent adventures, but Mae Sot is far behind its northern neighbors when it comes to organized trips. The one agency that has its act together is Mae Sot Conservation Tours, 415 Intarakeeree Rd. (Tel. and fax 05553-2818). They offer 1-day trips for trekking, bamboo rafting, and elephant trekking that can include stops at any other local sites like the Gibbon Sanctuary or the border area. Longer-term trips into rugged Umphang feature rubber raft rides on some good rapids and bamboo rafting in tranquil spots on the Mae Krung River. You’ll overnight in jungle tents or in a Karen village set up for trekkers. Umphangs jungle scenery is absolutely breathtaking. Prices are between 800B–1,500B ($20–$36) per day on treks.