The Eastern Seaboard
Tracing the coastline directly east of Bangkok, there are a few resort spots that are attractive as much for their proximity to Bangkok as anything. Closest is Pattaya, one of Thailand’s earliest holiday developments and famous (or infamous) for its wild nightlife, its sea of amber-lit, open-air beer bars, go-go spots, and hostess clubs. The town is always hoppin’ late into the night and guys come from all over the world to live it up. But there’s a dark side: Despite efforts at prevention and encouraged use of condoms, AIDS and STDs are major problems among brothel workers, and the skin trade in Pattaya lures some pretty nasty elements such as child prostitution and drug activity. As such, much of Pattaya is too seedy for family vacations, but there are some fine resorts, plenty of shopping, and good golf courses. The main Pattaya beach is still overcoming the effects of years of pell-mell construction and the spilling of pollutants directly into the bay (there’s now a sewage treatment plant). The beach is also just a thin strip of coarse sand with too many motorboats buzzing offshore; but nearby Jomtien, just south of town, is good for swimming, and day trips to outlying islands are popular. Pattaya is a crazy love-it-or-hate-it kind of place and the proverbial “One Night in Bangkok” pales in comparison.
Continuing east from Pattaya, Koh Samet, in Rayong Province, is a small island with loads of affordable, makeshift bungalow resorts. It’s a low-luxe, laid-back little retreat reached by a short ferry ride from the mainland at the town of Ban Phe (via Rayong). Though isolated, Koh Samet is popular with foreigners on a budget and gets very crowded on weekends with young Thai vacationers from Bangkok.
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| Map of the Eastern Seaboard |
Koh Chang, the last stop before Cambodia to the east, has earned a hushed following among young budget travelers because its remote location has kept development to a minimum. The cement trucks are rolling though, and the island, Thailand’s third largest, has sprouted a few high-end resorts. More upscale lodging is rapidly replacing the old coconut-wood bungalows. Koh Chang is reached via nondescript Trat some 5 hours east of Bangkok.
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| Map of Pattaya |
147km (91 miles) E of Bangkok The current incarnation of Pattaya claims its founders day as June 29, 1959, when a few truckloads of American troops stationed in nearby Isan arrived, rented houses along the beach, and had such a hoot that they told their friends. Word spread and, over time, the town became the R&R capital for war-weary American troops for the next many years. The legacy of those early visitors is today’s adult playground: with hundreds of go-go clubs, beer bars, and massage parlors at beachside.
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| View of Pattaya |
Tourism boomed in the 1980s, and unchecked resort development was not accompanied by infrastructure upgrades such that beaches became veritable toilets of raw sewage. Recent years have seen a few civil projects to clean up the bay with some success, but the beach is not at all pleasant. Despite this, Pattaya now supports a collection of large, sophisticated international resorts, retreats set in sprawling, manicured seaside gardens. Pattaya would like to be a family destination, and, along with fine accommodations, there are some family activities, but Pattaya’s mammoth sex tourism industry kind of puts the kibosh on any wholesome family fun (parents may not be able to field all of the questions the town raises in the little ones). Neighboring Jomtien is a popular alternative to Pattaya. Less seedy activities and cleaner beaches (though just a long, thin stretch of coarse sand), Jomtien’s best accommodations are private condominiums, but it’s good for day visits.
By Plane There’s no airport in Pattaya, the nearest being in U Tapao, an hour east of the city (Tel. 0 3824-5595). Served by Bangkok Airways with a daily flight from Koh Samui (trip time: 1 hr.). They also fly four times a week to and from Phnom Penh in Cambodia. Make reservations through their offices at Bangkok (Tel. 0 2265-5678; airport : Tel. 02535-2497-8). They have an office in Pattaya at Royal Garden Plaza, 218 Beach Rd., 2nd floor (Tel. 0 3871-0294-8). To get to and from the airport to Pattaya, arrange private transfer through your resort (a limo can be as steep as 1,000B/$23), or take the Bangkok Airways minivan for 150B ($3.40). By Train Once-a-day train service leaves from Bangkok’s Hua Lampong station at 6:55am and returns from Pattaya at 2:50pm. The 5-hour trip through the countryside is pleasant and costs only 31B (75¢). Call Hua Lampong in Bangkok (Tel. 0 2220-4334, 02220-4444 or 1690) or the train station in Pattaya at Tel. 0 3842-9285. The Pattaya train station is east of the resort strip off Sukhumvit Road and shared-ride songtao (minitruck) connect with all destinations on the main beach for just 20B (50¢).
By Public Bus The most common and practical form of transportation to Pattaya is the bus. Buses depart from Bangkok’s Eastern Bus Terminal on Sukhumvit Road (opposite Soi 63 at the BTS Ekamai Station; Tel. 0 2391-2504) every half-hour beginning from 5am until 10pm every day. For air-conditionedcoach the fare is 90B ($2.20). There’s also regular bus service from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal, on Kampaengphet 2 Road (Mor Chit) (Tel. 0 2936-2841), which is a good way to avoid Bangkok rush-hour traffic. The bus station in Pattaya for air-conditioned buses to and from Bangkok is on North Pattaya Road (Tel. 0 3842-9877). From there, catch a shared ride on a songtao to your resort or hotel for about 20B (50¢).
By Private Bus Major hotels or travel agencies in both Bangkok and Pattaya operate private shuttles so be sure to inquire when booking. Rung Reung Tour (Tel. 0 3842-9877) has air-conditioned bus service every 2 hours from 7am to 5pm (trip time: 3 hr.) to and from Bangkok’s Don Muang airport and minibuses also depart from Khao San Road (any agent can make good discount arrangements).
By Taxi Taxis from the Don Muang Airport taxi counter go for 1,250B ($30) and any hotel concierge can negotiate with a metered taxi driver to take you to or from Pattaya resort, door to door, for about 1,500B ($36).
By Car Take Highway 3 east from Bangkok.
The TAT office (609 Moo 10, Pratamnak Rd.; Tel. 0 3842-8750, 03842-7667, 03842-3990 ) is inconveniently located south of Pattaya City, up the mountain on the road between Pattaya and neighboring resort Jomtien. Better info is available in most hotel lobbies: free local maps and publications like What’s On Pattaya and Explore Pattaya and the East Coast. Pattaya Mail is the local English-language paper (25B/60¢).
Pattaya Beach road is the heart of the town, a long strip of hotels, bars, restaurants, and shops overlooking Pattaya Bay. Pattaya 2nd and Pattaya 3rd roads run parallel to Beach Road and form a busy central grid of small, crowded sois bound by North Pattaya Road and South Pattaya road and bisected by Central Pattaya Road. At both the far northern (Dusit Resort) and southern (Royal Cliff Beach Resort) ends of the strip are two bluffs. Due south is condo-lined Jomtien Beach, a 15-minute ride from Pattaya.
By Minius or Songtao Songtao (called baht buses here) are covered pickup trucks with wooden benches that follow regular routes up and down the main streets. Fares within Pattaya start at 10B (25¢). To far-flung beaches such as Jomtien, they’re 30B (75¢). Drivers will try to charge you a taxi-rate (especially if empty) but don’t have any of it (bargain hard and wait for a full truck). Some hotels operate their own minibuses.
By Car There are plenty of car-rental agencies, and you can negotiate the price with most, especially outside the high season. Avis is at the Dusit Resort (Tel. 03836-1628) with self-drive rates from about 1,500B ($34) per day for a Suzuki Caribian 4WD sport vehicle to 2,000B ($45) and up for a compact sedan. Budget Car Rental has an office at Liabchayhard Beach Rd. (Tel. 0 3871-0717) and offers comparable rates. VIA Rent-a-Car, 215/15–18 Pattaya 2nd Rd. opposite Royal Garden Plaza (Tel. 0 3872-3123), has a good reputation and, like the many along Pattaya Beach Road, offers better rates (from 900B/$22) but be sure to read all contracts and check vehicles closely before renting.
By Motorcycle Let’s be honest, Pattaya’s busy roads are full of drunk and reckless foreign drivers on motorbikes, but the brave (or foolish) can rent 150cc motorcycles for 200B ($4.90) a day (no insurance). Big choppers and Japanese speed bikes (500cc) will go for from 500B to 900B ($12–$22) per day. Demand a helmet and as always “renter beware.”
There are many independent money-changing booths, bank exchanges (with better rates) open 24 hours and ATMs at every turn in town. The post office is on Soi Post Office near the Royal Garden Plaza (Tel. 0 3842-9341). Bangkok Pattaya Hospital (' 03842-7751) has full services and English speaking staff. In Pattaya, the number for the Tourist Police is Tel. 0 3842-9371 or 1699. Internet service in Pattaya costs 2B per minute ($31/hr.; expensive for Thai) and there are a number of cafes along the water (try Soi Yamato).
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| Wat Khao Prayai |
Wat Khao Prayai is a small temple complex high above town to the south (go by songtao toward Jomtien then hop-off and climb the steep hill). The temple has excellent vistas and a 10m (321⁄2-ft.) gold Buddha serenely surveying the western sea.
For those who don’t have time to see all of Thailand’s many wonders, Mini Siam (387 Moo 6 Sukhumvit Rd., North Pattaya City; Tel. 0 3842-1628) offers a comprehensive tour of the kingdoms highlights in miniature (an example of scale: Bangkok’s huge Grand Palace is waist high). Open daily 7am to 8pm; admission 200B ($4.90) adults, 100B ($2.50) children. It’s 14km (81⁄2 miles) north of Pattaya City and best reached by taxi or private car. For something completely unusual, the Ripley’s Believe It or Not showcase, 3rd Floor, Royal Garden Plaza, 218 Beach Rd. (Tel. 0 3871-0294), open 10am to midnight daily (admission 320B/$7.80), is hilarious, with unusual exhibits and odd facts from around the globe. Just next-door is the Ripley’s Motion Master simulator ride. Both are highly recommended for kids of all ages. The Pattaya Elephant Village (see the Elephant Desk at Tropicana Hotel, Beach Rd.; Tel. 0 3842-8158), stages elephant shows daily at 2:30pm. You can also arrange for a little jungle trekking on elephant back; a half hour trek is about 500B ($12) per adult and 200B ($4.55) per child. If that’s not quite your speed, check out Pattaya Go-Kart, Sukhumvit Road next to Mini Siam (Tel. 0 3842-2044), with a 400m (1,312 ft.) track that is also suitable for children. Rates run between 100B ($2.30) and 200B ($4.55) per 10 minutes, depending on the power of your cart.
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| Nong Nooch Garden |
Also some 18km (111⁄2 miles) from Pattaya is Nong Nooch (Tel. 0 3870-9358-62, 03823-8061-62) a giant botanical garden and elephant park with daily performances—with elephants performing alongside some 100 dancers, musicians, and performers for spectator crowds of up to 1,000. Cultural performances, music, Thai boxing, audience participation, and dozens of funny photo ops make this really touristy activity a load of laughs. Make your booking directly (Tel. 0 3842-2958), and they can arrange shuttles from Pattaya at either 8:30am or 1:15pm with return.
Busy central Pattaya features a range of accommodation, from seedy to stylish, and the town supports a few more isolated, peaceful getaways. During the high season, reservations are recommended at least 2 weeks in advance, especially December–January.
Amari On the northern end of busy Pattaya, just out of the fray but close enough to walk there, the Amari provides comforts typical of its many properties throughout Thailand. Rooms are clean, with all the right amenities and the staff is helpful: a great choice for the family (but not particularly luxurious). The open-air lobby is inviting and guest rooms are large, trimmed in dark wood with parquet floors with pleasing, contemporary lines. There’s a playground and lots of space in the grassy central area. They have good in-house dining (see Henry J. Bean’s in “Where to Dine,” below), and can help arrange any eventuality during your stay.
Pattaya Beach, Pattaya 20150 (on the very northernmost end of the beachfront road). Tel. 0 2255-3767. Fax 02255-3718. 236 units. 9,000B–9,800B ($220–$240) double; from 11,000B ($270) suite. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; outdoor pool; 9-hole mini-golf; 2 tennis courts; fitness center; Jacuzzi; playground and kids’ club; tour desk; business center w/Internet; gift shop; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry and dry-cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.
Dusit Resort This sprawling, landscaped resort straddles the bluff on the north end of the main beach and is choc-full of fine amenities: water-sports, two fine pools, access to two small but well-kept sandy beach coves, several dining outlets, and a small shopping arcade. Most of the balconied rooms overlook Pattaya Bay, but the garden view rooms are a great value. Tasteful, modern rooms are trimmed with stained wood and each has fine furnishing and all-marble bathrooms. While you may get an overall “chain hotel feel” here, the accommodations are very clean and comfortable, and there is a unique Zodiac theme throughout. Larger rooms and suites have outdoor showers on large balconies.
240/2 Pattaya Beach Rd., Pattaya 20150, Chonburi (north end of Pattaya Beach). Tel. 0 3842-5611. Fax 03842-8239. www.dusit.com. 462 units. 6,000B–6,800B ($146–$165) double; from 9,300B ($226) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lobby bar w/live music; 2 large free-form pools; 2 outdoor tennis courts; small fitness center; spa w/massage, sauna, steam; water-sports equipment/rentals; games; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; small business center w/Internet; shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya New and ultra-modern Hard Rock Hotel is a rollicking, good-time oasis in the heart of sordid Pattaya. This is one place in town you might feel okay bringing the kids, and they’re sure to have a ball in the fun sandy-edged pool, game area and Internet cafe. Rooms are compact and purposely sparse in immaculate whites set against bright blue or orange. Each room features larger than life murals of your favorite rock-and-roll idols, from Elvis to John Lennon. Media mavens will be pleased with the in-room CD players and in-house movies. Large family suites are a good option. The lobby and adjoining Hard Rock Cafe features the chain’s typical mini-museum of musical memorabilia; their Lil’ Rock Kid’s Club is one of the best going; the poolside spa is tops; and the pool area is compact but has lots of shady areas and massage salas, a kind of low, Thai-style pavilion that is a better alternative than the beach. Don’t miss their big “foam parties” on weekends. Beach Road, P.O. Box 99, Pattaya 20260 (next to Montien Hotel).Tel. 0 3842-8755. Fax 03842-1673. www.hardrockhotels.net. 320 units. 4,180B–5,060B ($105–$125) double; from 5,330B ($130) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; Hard Rock Cafe with live rock music; huge outdoor lagoon-style pool; fitness center; spa w/massage, Jacuzzi, sauna and steam; watersports equipment and activities; “Li’l Rock” club for kids; game room; tour desk; limousine service; “e-bar” Internet lounge; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, CD players, fridge, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
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Pattaya Marriott Resort & Spa Right in the center of Pattaya Beach and adjoining the Royal Garden Plaza shopping complex, you really can’t get a better location than the Marriott. In the hotels quiet courtyard garden and Land-scaped pool area you’d hardly know Pattaya City was just beyond the walls. Spacious balconied rooms have views of the gardens or the sea and are done in a tidy, upscale chain style with lots of nice little Thai touches. This resort makes for a great retreat full of all of the requisite creature comforts. The adjoining Royal Garden Plaza means access to fine dining, and entertainment and the hotel pool is the largest in Pattaya.
218 Beach Rd., Pattaya 20150, Chonburi. Tel. 0 3841-2120. Fax 03842-9926. 300 units. 5,000B–7,000B ($122–$171) double; from 14,000B ($341) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; pool with swim-up bar; 2 lighted grass tennis courts; large fitness center; spa w/Jacuzzi, sauna and steam; Thai herbal spa; watersports equipment/rentals; children’s programs; game room; Ripley’s Believe It Or Not Museum; Motion Master Theater; tour desk; limousine service; shopping mall with more than 50 shops; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV w/in-house movies, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, safe, IDD phone.
The Royal Cliff Beach Resort Comprised of the Royal Cliff Grand, The Royal Wing and Spa, and The Royal Cliff Resort (and Terrace), this large, luxurious compound provides a range of accommodation and is by far the best choice in Pattaya. Each property has its own charm. High-end Royal Cliff Grand and Royal Wing are the top choices and cater to the well-heeled business traveler. Everything is luxurious: from the columned public spaces, chandeliers and fountains to large and opulent guestrooms. The Grand’s spacious rooms are set in a contemporary, scallop-shaped tower and have deluxe appointments like marble bathrooms with separate shower stalls and twin sinks. Classic furniture and coffered ceilings are tribute to the era of King Rama V, who inspired the Victoriana/Siam design. The Royal Club on the sixth floor boasts a private spa with massage, Jacuzzi and sun deck. The Royal Cliff Beach Hotel, the most affordable of the Royal Cliff properties, is Pattaya’s top family resort. Rooms are spacious with bleached wood and pastel decor and large terraces, most with bay views. Two-bedroom suites are perfect for families. Even the more modest rooms in this cliff-top perch look out over the bay of Pattaya and the hotel amenities are without rival: a fine health-club, pool, spa and great dining as well as an enormous, luxurious convention center on grounds. The hotel has a staff of more than 1,500 waiting to serve. The Royal Cliff is far above the beach and far-removed from busy Pattaya: quiet, luxurious and welcoming. 353 Phra Tamnuk Rd., Pattaya, Chonburi 20150 (on cliff, south end of Pattaya Bay). Tel. 0 3825-0421. Fax 03825-0514. www.royalcliff.com. 1,072 units. 5,200B–7,400B ($127–$180) a range of deluxe double rooms; from 10,000B ($244) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Full facilities sharing with all Royal Cliff Beach Resort properties, including 10 restaurants; 6 bars (many with live music); 5 outdoor landscaped pools; golf course or nearby; 3-hole putting green; 6 outdoor lighted tennis courts; large completely equipped fitness center with spa, sauna, steam and massage; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment rental (catamaran for rent); concierge; tour desk; limousine service; business center; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe.
Cabbages & Condoms A new, lush, comfortable resort built by Khun Meechai and the same folks who support sustainable rural development and health education throughout Thailand (see their restaurants in both Bangkok and Chiang Rai). Rooms are cozy here and the resort, just recently up and running, is a luxurious oasis in the far south of Pattaya. An atmospheric, affordable escape.
366/11 Moo 12 Phra Tam Nak 4 Road, Nongprue, Banglamung, Chonburi. (south of town on the hilltop, not far from Royal Cliff) Tel. 0 3825-0556. Fax 03825-0034. 53 units. 2,200B–5,800B ($54–$141) double; from 10,000B ($175) suites. AE, MC, V. Amenities: restaurant; large outdoor pool; spa w/massage; tour desk; limited room service; laundry. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.
Siam Bayview Hotel Managed by the same people as the nearby Siam Bayview Resort (Tel. 0 3842-8678), a comparable property, larger and more removed on the south end of Pattaya, the Siam Bayview is set in a spacious garden at the town center and features some basic beachfront activities. But Bayview is more city hotel than resort though and rooms are bland but comfortable and convenient to in-town activities. Some rooms have balconies, but cheaper rooms with city views are not special—go for the sea-view rooms on upper floors. Their hotels have landscaped pools as well as tennis, good dining, and a helpful staff. Beach Rd., Pattaya, Chonburi 20260 (center of beach, between Sois 9 and 10). Tel. 0 3842-3871. Fax 03842-3879. www.siamhotels.com. 270 units. 3,000B–4,500B ($73–$110) double; from 8,000B ($195) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; 2 outdoor pools; 2 lighted tennis courts; fitness center; tour desk; business center; limited room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, IDD phone.
Budget lodgings in Pattaya attract a rough clientele and can be pretty unpleasant, but you’ll find a range starting as low as 400B ($9.75). In the center of it all, and each with counters for registering lady-visitors, Flipper Lodge Hotel (Tel. 0 3842-6401) and nearby Sunshine Hotel (Tel. 0 3842-9247), both on Soi 8 not far from the beach, have clean and comfortable air-conditioned rooms starting at 800B ($20), accept credit cards and offer just the basic services (each has a small pool).
Busy Pattaya is chockabloc with small storefront bars and eateries. You’ll find the big fast-food chains well-represented (including two Starbuck’s along the beachfront road) and the Royal Garden Shopping Complex (south of town) as well as the large Big C Festival Center (on Pattaya 2 Rd., north end of town) support a number of very familiar restaurants.
Benihana JAPANESE/AMERICAN Most American readers are thinking, “Benihana? In Thailand?” Well, if you’ve had your fill of tom yam and pad thai, this place is a welcome respite. It’s got all the fun of any Benihana’s—teppanyaki grill displays performed by chefs who have as much humor as skill, and the food is just great. Come for a good time and a lot of laughs. 2nd Level, Royal Garden Plaza.Tel. 0 3842-5029. Set menus 150B–500B ($3.65–$12). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.
Henry J. Bean’s TEX-MEX Part of the Amari resort complex, Henry J. Bean’s is a big, busy bar and restaurant at beachside (on the very north end of the beachside strip). There are live bands nightly and the food is a delicious mix of good Western fare, burgers, steaks and fries and good Tex-Mex of anything from flaming fajitas to tasty quesadillas. Good margaritas and a range of fine cocktails. Pattaya Beach Road (north end) Tel. 0 3842-8161. Main courses 190B–350B ($4.50–$8.50) AE, MC, V. 11am–1am.
PIC Kitchen THAI Named for the Pattaya International Clinic PIC Hospital next door (don’t worry, they’re unrelated), PIC has a nice atmosphere of small Thai teak pavilions, both air-conditioned and open-air and both Thai-style, floor-seating and romantic tables. Delicious and affordable Thai cuisine is served a la carte or in lunch and dinner sets. The spring rolls and deep fried crab claws are mouthwatering. Other dishes come pan-fried, steamed, or charcoal grilled, with spice added to taste. At night, groove to a live jazz band from 7pm to 1am. Soi 5 Pattaya 2nd Rd.Tel. 0 3842-8374. 75B–320B ($1.80–$7.80). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 8am–midnight.
Shere “E” Punjab NORTHERN INDIAN An inviting little storefront right along the main beach road at town center, Shere “E” Punjab has candle-lit tables in air-conditioned comfort. They offer a range of northern Indian cuisine and tandoori grilled dishes. Everything is cooked to order with fresh ingredients and everything is authentic, a far better choice than the faux-Western eateries in town.
216 Soi 11 Beach Road.Tel. 0 3842-0158. Main courses 120B–280B ($2.90–$6.80). AE, MC, V. Daily noon–1am.
Vientiane LAOTIAN/THAI It’s Laotian, Vietnamese, Chinese, and Isan (northeastern Thai) specialties here, a great place for a cover-the-table meal for very little. Ordering Lao and Isan specials like sticky-rice and Laap (a spicy mince) puts you in the good graces of the wait staff (all from Isan). The restaurant is located on a noisy street though. Choose the air-conditioned dining room.
485/18 Pattaya Second Rd. (on east side of 2nd Rd., between Soi 14 and Soi Post Office).Tel. 0 3841-1298.
Main courses 60B–200B ($1.40–$4.90). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight.
The hills around Pattaya are known as the “Golf Paradise of the East” with many international-class courses in a short 40km (25-mile) radius of the city.
• Bangphra International Golf Club, 45 Moo 6, Tambon Bang Phra, Sri
Racha, (Tel. 0 3834-1149), is the finest course in Pattaya, although it’s a long drive (greens fees: weekdays 840B/$19; weekends 1,500B/$34).
• Laem Chabang International Country Club, 106/8 Moo 4 Tambon Bung, Sri Ratcha, (Tel. 0 3837-2273), is a nine-hole course designed by Jack Nicklaus with very dramatic scenery (greens fees: weekdays 1,500B/$34); weekends 2,500B/$57).
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| Bangphra International Golf Club |
• Siam Country Club, 50 Tambol Poeng, Banglamung, (Tel. 0 3824-9381; fax 03824-9387), is a short hop from Pattaya and believed to be one of the country’s most challenging courses (greens fees: all days 1,100B/$25).
Efforts at clean-up are ongoing, but the bay in Pattaya is still quite polluted. Sad that development ruined the one thing that drew travelers here in the first place. Beach sand is coarse and swimming, if you dare, is best either at the very north of Pattaya Beach or a 15-minute drive south, over the mountain, to Jomtien Beach. The bay is full of boats ready to take you to outlying islands like Koh Khrok, Koh Lan and Koh Sok for a day of private beach lounging or snorkeling starting at 500B ($12) per head on a full boat (more for a private charter). To far flung Bamboo Island or Koh Man Wichai will cost you a bit more, some 2,000B ($49). Paragliding around the bay behind a motorboat is a popular beachfront activity and a 5 minute flight costs from 250B ($5.70).
Jomtien beach hosts windsurfing and sea-kayaking; boards and boats are rented along the beach for from 200B ($4.90) per hour.
Scuba diving is popular and there are a few dive-sites near the islands just offshore in Pattaya Bay as well as Koh Si Chang to the north, once famous as the summer playground of foreign ambassadors to Siam during the 19th century and Sattahip to the south with diving to a depth of 40m (131ft.). There are a number of good dive shops with PADI and NAUI certified instructors in the area. Adventure Divers, 219/56 Soi Yamato (Tel. 0 3871-0899), is one of many PADI-certified companies offering daily trips and courses for all levels. Contact Deutsches Haus (Tel. 0 3842-8725) for info about game fishing.
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| PATTAYA AFTER DARK |
Pattaya is all flashing neon and blaring music down even the smallest soi, an assault on the senses. Places like the South Pattaya pedestrian area, “Walking Street,” are lined with open-air watering holes with bar girls luring each passerby: The nightlife finds you in this town with an imploring, “You, mister, where you go?” Go-go bars are everywhere and red-light “Bar Beer” joints are springing up as fast as local officials can close them down. The city is a larger version of Bangkok’s Patpong complete with “Boyz Town,” a row of gay go-go clubs in south Pattaya. The same debauch that brings so many to Pattaya is pretty sad in the light of day though, when bleary-eyed revelers stumble around streets once glowing with neon, now bleak and strewn with garbage. Sex for money in Pattaya is a simple and direct business. Pattaya’s “physical” massage parlors are on Pattaya Second Road in northern Pattaya. Typically, dozens of girls wearing numbered buttons wait to be selected by clients, and then it’s off to private massage rooms and negotiations for services. All-night companionship is a matter of a small payment to a club owner (a bar fine) and simple negotiations. Most hotels have small security desks where girls must register with security guards before coming up to guest rooms (often for a fee).
There’s also a very active Katoey (transvestite) scene. Stories of laced drinks and theft (or worse) abound and AIDS and other STDs are a concern as in all of Thailand (See “Sex for Sale,” in chapter 2.). If the sex scene is not your thing, there are a few spots without the sleaze.
Hopf Brewery, 219 Beach Rd. (Tel 0 3871-0650), makes it’s own fine brand of suds and their in-house Hopf Band plays everything from old Herb Alpert tunes to newer jazzy sounds. Shenanigan’s is a fun Irish bar hangout at the Royal Garden Complex (near the Marriott), with the front entrance on Pattaya 2nd Road (Tel. 0 3871-0641) and Henry J. Bean’s (on the beach near the Amari Hotel; Tel. 0 3842-8161; see “Where to Dine”) has a live band and a light, friendly atmosphere. The town’s campy cabaret shows are touristy good fun. Pattaya’s most beautiful Katoeys (transsexuals) don sequined gowns and feather boas to strut their stuff for packed houses nightly. Both Tiffany’s (464 Moo 9, 2nd Rd.; Tel. 0 3842-9642) and Alcazar (78/14 Pattaya 2nd Rd., opposite Soi 5; (Tel. 0 3841-0505) have hilarious shows much like those in other tourist towns in Thailand. The biggest disco, Palladium (78/33–35 Pattaya 2nd Rd.; Tel. 0 3836-1376), is a cavernous dance hall with pulsing music, karaoke, and snooker.
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| Koh Samet |
220km (137 miles) E of Bangkok on Highway 3 via Pattaya, or 185km (115 miles) on Highway 3 via the Pattaya bypass. Ban Phe is 35km (22 miles) east of Rayong city. Tiny Koh Samet first became popular with Thais from the poetry of Sunthon Phu, a venerated 19th-century author and Rayong native who set his bestknown epic on this “tropical island paradise.” The island is a national park (you’ll pay 200B/$4.90 to enter Diamond Beach) but seems more a nature reserve for rave-babies and college kids in search of cheap lodging. There are even a few high-end resorts in a small section of the northwest of the island. Just 1km (2⁄3-mile) wide, the island is split by a rocky ridge that, except for small Ao Prao on the west, has limited development of the many bungalow villages to the east coast. Reaching Samet by ferry in the north end at Na Dan, the island’s main port, it is a 10-minute walk south to Hat Sai Kaeo, or Diamond Beach, on the northeast cape, the island’s most developed and crowded beach. From Diamond Beach, you can rent a motorbike to travel the bumpy, dirt roads or go by songtao to any of the many small beach developments, most along the east coast: Ao Pai and Vong Deuan are popular choices and quite basic though better than most (budget stops here are one step up from camping). Many bungalows and resorts can arrange transport by songtao or, in some cases, by private ferry directly to the beach. Contact them directly or at booking offices near the ferry. It’s best to arrive on a weekday to avoid the busy weekend rush but it can be fun to join in with big groups of young Thai weekenders. Koh Samet’s peak season follows Pattaya—with July through October bringing fewer travelers, so bungalow prices are discounted accordingly. Weekends get busy, however, so discounts may not apply.
By Bus Buses leave Bangkok every hour between 5am and 7pm for the 31⁄2-hour journey, departing from Ekamai, Bangkok’s Eastern Bus Terminal on Sukhumvit Road opposite Soi 63 (Tel. 0 2391-2504). The one-way trip to Rayong costs 117B ($2.90) and from there it’s a 20B (50¢) shared songtao to Ban Phe and the ferry landing (some buses go directly to Ban Phe). From Pattaya, public bus transportation isn’t the best way to go (you’ll have to flag-down passing buses from far out on the main road and they’re often full, so you’ll be standing). Buses from Bangkok are very popular on weekends and holidays, so you may not find a seat.
By Minibus Samet Island Tour (109/22 Moo 10 Pratumnak Rd. Pattaya;
Tel. 0 3871-0676), runs regular routes from Pattaya (trip time: 1 hr.; 300B/$6.80 round-trip). Private cars can also be arranged.
By Car Take Highway 3 east from Bangkok along the longer, more scenic coastal route (about 31⁄2–4 hr.), or the quicker route: via Highway 3 east to Pattaya, then Highway 36 to Rayong, then the coastal Highway 3 to Ban Phe (about 3 hr.).
By Ferry Connect by bus from central Rayong to the ferry pier at Ban Phe. From there, ferries leave for the island’s northern ferry terminal at Na Dan, every half hour (trip time: 40 min.; 40B/$1) or when full. The first boat departs at 9:30am and the last at 5pm. Several agents at the pier in Ban Phe sell passage directly to Vong Deuan beach for as little as 50B/$1.20. After arriving at the ferry terminal on the northern tip of Samet Island you can catch a songtao (pickup truck) to other beaches for between 10B and 50B (25¢–$1.10). There is one road on Samet connecting the main town, Samet Village, halfway down the eastern shore of the island to Vong Deuan. Beyond that you won’t find more than footpaths and you can rent cool scooters that have been upgraded with good suspension for off-road riding; on the weekends, they rent for as much as 400B ($9.75) per day.
Koh Samet has no banks or ATMs but any resort can change money. The post office is at the Naga Bar along the main road south of Diamond Beach (See how laid-back this place is? The post office is in a bar).
If you don’t book ahead, have no fear; several travel agents and “helpful” locals hover at the Ban Phe pier with photo albums showing off their rooms to rent. With few exceptions, accommodations are basic though rates are higher than at other “undeveloped” island resorts because food and water must be imported from the mainland.
This is the only beach on the west coast and reached by pickup or motorbike from the ferry or directly by ferry (contact Ao Prao Resort, below).
Ao Prao Resort Anywhere else, this place wouldn’t quite cut it, but here on Samet, this is as grand as it gets. A collection of mid-range bungalows on a quiet hillside overlooking the sea, Ao Prao Resort has good basic amenities, and the highest standard rooms are worth the outlay. Ao Prao beach is the only western-facing beach area on Samet and viewing a sunset from your bungalow is memorable; however the surly service isn’t. They have direct connections from their office just north of the main ferry pier. Contact the resort directly for arrangements.
Le Vinara Cottages (Tel. 0 3864-4104) is Ao Prao’s more upscale, boutique sister property just next door. There’s a pool and more luxurious bungalows start at 7,000B ($171). These are quaint little honeymoon retreats, and there is a small spa adjoining.
60 Moo 4 Tumbong Phe, Rayong 21160 (on the NW end of the island, best by direct boat, otherwise rough island road far from Diamond Beach and the ferry landing). '03861-6881. Fax 03861-6885. 56 units. 2,889B ($70) standard; 4,120B–5,297B ($100–$129) deluxe; from 8,560B ($209) suite. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant/bar; watersports rentals; tour desk; massage; laundry. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.
Sai Kaew Beach Resort (Tel. 01874-8081) dominates Hat Sai Kaew but there are any number of simple budget numbers, basic bungalows, starting at 250B ($6), as well as the biggest concentration of restaurants and bars. Just a short jaunt south of Diamond Beach, you’ll reach Ao Phai; there, try Ao Phai Hut (Tel. 0 3874-4075) for cozy, rustic bungalows set on a hillside (from 500B/$12).
This area is the most happenin’ beach in Samet. Busy, with lots of bungalows and open-air eateries, Vong Deaun has a good vibe in the evening and it’s a fun party spot on the weekend. The beach is about halfway down the island and can be reached by ferry directly from Ban Phe for just 60B ($1.50) one-way (contact Samet Tour at Malibu Garden Resort below). If those below are full, there are many other options, with bungalows starting at just 600B ($15).
Malibu Garden Resort These clean concrete motel-style rooms are in a quiet, grassy compound just off the beach. There’s a thatch dining pavilion, a small swimming pool and little else: rooms are basic but clean and most have air-conditioning and hot water. The staff is friendly as all get-out, and their in-house tour company, Samet Island Tour, can arrange direct transport and tours.
77 Vong Deuan Beach, Samet Island, Ban Phe, 21160 Rayong. Tel. 0 3864-4020. Fax 03864-4020, or contact Samet Island Tour in Pattaya at Tel. 0 3871-0676. 74 units. 950B–1,400B ($23–$34) double with fan. 1,500B–3,000B ($34–$73) double with A/C. Amenities: Restaurant; small pool; watersports rentals; boat transfer available; convenience shop; laundry. In room: No phone.
Vong Deaun Resort Book ahead, because this one is popular and often full. Just simple, solid, wooden bungalows scattered among a sprawling, hillside grove of trees at beachside. They have all the basic services you could want.
Vong Deuan Beach (office near 7-11 in Ban Phe) P.O. Box 9 Ban Phe 21160 Tel. 0 3864-4171. 1,100B–1,500B ($27–$37). Cash only. Amenities: Restaurant; tour desk; boat transfer available; convenience shop; laundry.
In room: no phone.
All of the bungalows offer some sort of eating experience, mostly bland local food and beer, with some Western breakfast offerings. In the evenings on Vong Deuan beach, tables are set up under twinkling lights alongside big seafood barbecues brimming with the day’s catch. It’s very pretty. Try Sea Horse. In Ao Pai just south of Diamond Beach, Naga Bar is a popular hangout and serves a fine menu of local eats and serves good baked goods. Jep’s Bungalows (Tel. 0 3864-4112), just south of Naga Bar, has a fairly decent menu, a good beer selection, and a bakery that has surprisingly fresh goods in the mornings. Most bungalows on Samet have their own dining areas for inexpensive, fresh seafood (don’t miss the locally caught squid and cuttle fish, which are barbecued on skewers) and standard Thai rice and noodle dishes. All restaurants on the island turn into all-night party affairs at beachside (depending on the crowd) and Vong Deuan Beach in particular hosts a good little selection of cozy bars with floor seating and mats out on the sand.
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| Namtok Phlieo National Park |
Travelers heading east to beautiful Koh Chang (see “Trat & Koh Chang,” below) will pass through Chanthaburi province and its capital city, Chanthaburi town (Muang Chan). This region is known for its gem mines (a lucrative export industry) and tropical fruit production. Durian, custard apple, longan, and rambutan are grown in large plantations, but small family farms are much in evidence. Don’t be startled by the roadside 7.9m (26-ft.)-high durian sculpture, or the many watermelon and fruit stands alongside the highway. Chanthaburi town (Muang Chan) is a large city built on both sides of the Chanthaburi River. In central Taksin Park, there’s a statue of King Taksin on horseback, surrounded by sword-brandishing troops, to commemorate his victory over Burmese invaders in 1767, after the fall of Ayutthaya. The city’s main avenue is Tha Chalab Road. The taxi stand and bus station (to Trat or Bangkok) are just west of the Chanthaburi Hotel on this street; both flank the central produce market and night market. The 17,000-hectare (42,000-acre) Namtok Phlieo National Park is a popular day trip from Chanthaburi as is Laem Sadet, a stunning beach and rocky cape located some 35km (22 miles) southwest of the city. Both sites can be visited by private car or arranged taxi only.
Gem Shopping is one of the few draws to commercial Chantaburi and some say there are bargains to be found on Gem Street, near the main market.
There’s no reason to spend the night in Chanthaburi town, but if you must K.P. Grand (35/200–201 Trirat Rd.; Tel. 0 3932-3201) is by far the most modern facility in town with comfortable rooms starting at 1,250B ($31). It’s a typical provincial capital business hotel, simple and comfortable enough.
400km (249 miles) E of Bangkok Trat’s dramatic, wooded landscape crests at the Khao Bantat Range, which separates Thailand’s easternmost province from neighboring Cambodia. Local economy relies on rubber and chili plantations, fish farming and fishing. Memories of territorial conflicts with nearby Cambodia are fresh, but the situation is calm. Trat Province is the gateway to the tranquil, unspoiled acres of Koh Chang National Park, 52 heavily wooded islands, most accessible by ferry from the cape at Laem Ngop. If no discos or video bars, no beach vendors and no traffic sound like tropical paradise, this is your kind of place. Koh Chang is scenically beautiful, and very, very quiet.
By Public Bus There are numerous daily departures from Bangkok’s Eastern or Ekamai Bus Terminal to Trat (Tel. 0 2391-2504; trip time: 5–6 hr.; 190B/$4.60). From Pattaya, you’ll have to flag down west-bound buses along Sukhumvit Road and it is a 31⁄2 hour trip (Pattaya tour companies can arrange direct minivans).
By Car Take Highway 3 east from Bangkok to Chonburi, then Highway 344
southeast to Klaeng (bypassing Pattaya and Rayong), then the coastal Highway 3 east through Chanthaburi and south to Trat (about 5–6 hr.).
From Trat you’ll hop a shared songtao (pickup) to the pier at Ao Thammachat for just 30B (75¢). Seven ferries depart Ao Thammachat daily from 7am to 7pm (trip time, 30 minutes; 30B/75¢) and land at Ao Sapparos ferry terminal on Koh Chang. From there you can hop a songtao to your destination starting at 30B (75¢) for a 15 minute ride to White Sand Beach (touts from the many bungalows will offer free rides if you stay at their bungalow). Less frequent boats leave from Laem Ngop pier (50B/$1.20), a similar 30B (75¢) ride from Trat.
The TAT has an office in Trat (Moo 1 Trat-Laem Ngop Rd.; Tel. 0 3959-7259) and provides information about the nearby islands.
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| Hat Sai Khao |
Koh Chang, Thailand’s second-largest island after Phuket, is the anchor of the 52-island Mu Koh Chang National Park. Thickly forested hills rise from its many rocky bays, forming a swaying hump reminiscent of a sleeping elephant (chang means elephant). Accommodations are primitive; budget tourists come for the beaches and the cleanest Mediterranean-blue waters this side of Greece. Pineapple and coconut palms dominate the landscape, with a few scattered fishing villages and sparsely populated islands. Cambodia is visible from the eastern shore. Most of the island’s development—including ever-improving roadways—is on the west coast. Hat Sai Khao (White Sand Beach) is the closest and most popular of the western beaches, with the majority of Koh Chang’s bungalow housing set in a narrow ribbon along it’s a kilometer- (2⁄3-mile) long, fine-sand strand. Twenty minutes by boat farther south is Hat Khlong Phrao, with clusters of bungalows, an inland canal and fishing settlement. The best skin diving or snorkeling is around the small islands off Koh Chang’s south coast, such as Koh Khlum, Koh Whai (a particularly beautiful island), Koh Phrao (near some wrecks of Thai naval ships), Koh Ngam, and Koh Lao Ya. All of these islands, except Koh Khlum, have bungalows, but ferry service is erratic, infrequent, and expensive. Contact tour desks in bungalows and at the center of busy White Sand beach to arrange good day-trips.
If you’re arriving in the late evening and get stranded in Trat, the Muang Trad Hotel is at 4 Sukhumvit Rd. (Tel. 0 3951-1091), 1 block south of the bus terminal, and has 144 rooms with private toilets and Asian mandi (ladle shower) A double with fan costs 450B ($10) and 650B ($15) for a double with air-conditioning. They accept MasterCard and Visa.
If you’re arriving in the late evening and get stranded in Trat, the Muang Trad Hotel is at 4 Sukhumvit Rd. (Tel. 0 3951-1091), 1 block south of the bus terminal, and has 144 rooms with private toilets and Asian mandi (ladle shower) A double with fan costs 450B ($10) and 650B ($15) for a double with air-conditioning. They accept MasterCard and Visa.
There is a growing number of “full-service” resorts on Koh Chang. Accommodation mostly consists of simple thatch huts and A-frames. Contact tour operators and bungalow tour desks at White Sand Beach about trips to outlying Koh Lao Ya and other areas with small resort developments (or call Lao Ya Island Resort Tel. 0 3951-2818). Dining is best at the resorts, but White Sand Beach in particular hosts lots of little open-air joints (keep an eye out for a new Italian restaurant that was just breaking ground on White Sand at the time of this writing).
Panviman Like its sister resort on Kok Pha Ngan, the newly opened Panviman on Koh Chang is the island’s most luxurious choice, far-exceeding the many bungalow resorts. Rooms are set in high-peaked, Thai-style buildings with arching naga roofs; the spacious grounds are meticulously manicured (and there are fun garden gnome statues scattered about), and the pool is a beautiful little meander flanked on one side by a casual bar, on the other by the resorts fine dining, and all is oriented to great views of the sea (great sunsets). Rooms are sumptuous affairs of tile and teak, each with canopy bed, large sitting area, balcony and large stylish bathrooms. Bathrooms have huge tubs and, get this, a small waterfall. It’s not a private beach, but the resort is far south of central White Sand Beach so even in high season you might have a vast stretch of sand to yourself. Dining is tops, tasty European and Thai dishes served in their open-air pavilion overlooking the sea. Traditional massage is available in a lovely old teak building at seaside.
8/15 Klong Prao Beach, Koh Chang Trat 23120 (a short ride south of White Sand Beach on the west coast of the island).Tel. 0 3955-1290 or 02910-8660 in Bangkok. Fax 03955-1283. 50 units. 5,000B–6,000B ($122–$146) double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; fitness center; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment rentals; car rental; tour desk; transfer services; Internet; limited room service; massage; laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, safe, IDD phone.
Banpu Atmospheric bungalows, casual open-air salas for dining and relaxing, a small pool, a friendly staff and good, basic services as well as a central location on busy White Sand Beach means that Banpu is one of the best choices on the island. Free-standing bungalow rooms have a campy, Catskills holiday feel but are quite large with fine bamboo catay ceilings and rustic island touches in local material (some are a bit musty though, so check first).
9/11 Moo 4, White Sand Beach, Koh Cang 23120 (on the west coast just a short ride from any ferry pier). Tel. 0 3955-1234. Fax 03955-1237. 31 units. 2,000B–2,500B ($49–$61) double; from 5,000B ($122) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; small outdoor pool; watersports equipment rentals; tour desk; laundry. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, fridge, safe.
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| Koh Chang Resort |
Malaria is endemic to the heavily forested islands of Mu Koh Chang National Park and the jungle-covered foothills of Trat province, but no cases have been reported for a number of years. It’s all the buzz on the boat ride over, but don’t believe the hype. Still, it is a good idea, as anywhere in Thailand, to avoid getting bitten. Bring insect repellent, preferably with a high DEET content, and keep skin covered-up at dawn and dusk when skeeters are most active.