Exploring Isan:
Thailand’s Frontier
Life is slow on the scorched plains of Isan but the friendly people of this region welcome travelers openly or with unabashed surprise, something like American “Southern Hospitality”. There is little in the way of jaw-dropping tourist sites, but all roads lead “off the track” in this rugged region and there are some exciting archaeological sites (mostly dating from the Khmer period), lovely river towns, finely made crafts, and fiery hot food.
A trip to the northeast is particularly recommended for those who have visited Thailand’s more popular destinations in the north, such as Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai or Mae Hong Son, and who are looking for an adventure. The tourism infrastructure is less developed, English is less widely spoken and many of the foreigners you’ll meet up this way are on humanitarian aid missions for refugee camps near Cambodia or in rural development projects.
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| Map of Isaan or Northeastern Thailand |
The weather is especially hot in Isan but follows a pattern much like the rest of Thailand. The cool season runs from November through February and is similar to summer in Southern California, with very warm days and cool nights. March to May is the dry season, which in Isan is considerably drier than in other sections of the country. The rains begin in earnest in June and there’s nary a letup until October.
Much of Isan, particularly in the south, is a wide, windswept, infertile plain. To the far east, as you approach the confluence of the Mekong and Moon rivers, grasslands give way to arid, charred sandstone plateaus with a certain primeval quality.
The northern and western sections of Isan are more fertile and mountainous (particularly around Loei), resembling northern Thailand more than the Isan plains. Farms are large and the local economy is considerably richer. Although there is some small-scale industrial development on the rise, the economy of the area is still primarily agricultural. Many areas produce handmade crafts, especially silk and cotton, woven in the traditional mutmee or ikat pattern as well as high-quality silver work, ceramics and basketry.
Trade with Laos is expanding rapidly now that the Friendship Bridge has been completed across the Mekong at Nong Khai. There are plans to build additional bridges in places like Nakhon Phanom or Mukdahan and tourism and trade with Isan’s cultural cousin are ever expanding. Visas to Laos are available on arrival for most western nationals at a number of points along the Thai-Laos border for just 1,500B ($37).
259km (160 miles) NE of Bangkok; 417km (259 miles) W of Buriram; 305km (189 miles) S of Udon Thani Nakhon Ratchasima, popularly known as Khorat, isn’t a wildly interesting city but it’s closest to Bangkok and makes a good base for excursions to beautiful Khao Yai National Park and the temples at Phimai, Phanom Rung, and other nearby Khmer sites. It’s a rapidly developing industrial city and is called the “Gateway to Isan” because all train lines, bus routes, roads, and communications pass through. There are some comfortable accommodations in Khorat and a few temples and city monuments worth seeing.
By Plane Two flights per day leave from Bangkok (flying time: 45 min.) on Thai Airways. For Bangkok booking call 0 2545-1000, RESERVATIONS 24 HOURS 02-356-1111). Thai Airways office in Nakhon Ratchasima is Prayoolkit Building, 40–44 Suranaree Rd. (Tel. 0 4425-7211-5). The airport is about 40km (25 mile) east of the city in Chalerm Prakiet.
Thai Airways will arrange ground transportation from the airport at the time of booking. Bangkok Airways (Tel. 0 2265-5555) has a 7am flight every day of the week but Sunday.
By Train Nakhon Ratchasima is connected by rail to Bangkok and major destinations north. Seven trains a day depart from Bangkok and it is 6 hours by ordinary train and just 4 hours by express train (in fact, it’s faster than flying and a lot less expensive); second-class ordinary train ticket costs 152B ($3.70), express is 232B ($5.65).
The Khorat (Nakhon Ratchasima) Railway Station is on Mukkhamontri Road near the center of town (Tel. 0 4424-2044). From just in front of the station, a number of songtao follow regular routes through the city (from 20B/50¢ to most destinations). Private tuk-tuk hire starts at 40B ($1). For Bangkok booking, call the Hua Lamphong Railway Station (Tel. 0 2223-0341-8 or 1690).
For information about departures from other cities, railway station contacts are provided in each section.
By Bus There are standard air-conditioned buses departing from the Northern Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 2936-2852-66, 0 2936-2841-48 extension 442,311) in Bangkok approximately every 20 minutes (trip time: 3 hr.; 157B/$3.80). One daily VIP 24-seater bus leaves from Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Station (Tel. 0 5324-2664) (trip time: 11 hr.; 500B/$12).
Numerous air-conditioned buses connect north to Udon Thani Bus Terminal (Te. 0 4222-1489) (trip time: 3 hr.; 162B/$3.95) and on to Nong Khai (trip time: 4 hr.; 189B/$4.30), and three air-conditioned buses daily connect Nakhon Ratchasima and Ubon Ratchathani (trip time: 5 hr.; 220B/$5.35).
There are a few bus terminals in the city of Nakhon Ratchasima, but most buses (whether to Bangkok or heading north) depart from Bus Terminal II on Highway 2 a short ride north of town (songtao connect often or take a tuk-tuk or motorbike for about 40B/$1).
By Car The most direct road from Bangkok is along Rte. 1 to Saraburi, turning east on Route 2 into Nakhon Ratchasima (trip time: 4 hr.).
The TAT office (Tel. 0 4421-3666, 0 4421-3030) is located at 2102–2104 Mittraphap Rd. (Hwy. 2), next to the Sima Thani Hotel on the western edge of town. It’s a long songtao or tuk-tuk ride from anywhere really, but the TAT folks do dispense the same info (a good local map and hotel/restaurant listings) at an information desk in the train station.
The eastern end of Nakhon Ratcahsima is the historical quarter surrounded by a moat and reconstructed city gates dating from the city’s founding by King Narai during the Ayutthaya period. Just to the west of the old city is the main business district defined by Chomsurangyart Road to the south and Suranari Road to the north. Nearly all hotels, restaurants, markets, and tourist services (the train station) are contained within this area. Frequent songtao criss-cross the main east-west thoroughfares of town. Just flag them down, tell the driver your destination and you’ll pay between 20B and 50B (50¢ and $1) for short trips (be sure to ask the price before hopping on to avoid confusion later).
Nakhon Ratchasima is a major commercial center with numerous banks and ATM service. Find the main post office on Assadang Road between Manat and Prajak roads (Tel. 0 4424-7537) in the old city center. There’s another post office branch on Chomsurangyard Road, next to the Klang Plaza shopping center.
The Maharat Hospital (Tel. 0 4425-4990-1, 0 4425-5996) is on Changphuak Road, north of Mittraphap Road (Hwy. 2). For police emergencies, call the Tourist Police at tel. 0 4434-1777-9 or 1155 or stop by their office across from Bus Terminal II on Highway 2.
The town of Khorat is 600 years old (post-dating the classical Khmer period), with origins in the unification of two villages into a larger provincial town. Little remains from this period other than pieces of city walls and gates as well as sections of a moat. The most highly regarded in-town site is the Monument of Thao Suranari (Khun Ying Mo), overlooking the town square on Chumphon Road in front of Chumphon Gate. The statue is of little aesthetic interest, but the story behind it merits retelling. During the reign of Rama III (19th c.), Prince Anuwong of Vientiane led an invasion of Khorat, scoring an initial success with his rout of local forces. His intention was to establish a colony and enslave the local population. Khun Ying Mo, the wife of Khorat’s deputy governor, enticed the Laotian officers to celebrate and got them all drunk. Then she and a band of women killed the officers, and in the confusion Prince Anuwong’s army fled in defeat. The monument was built in 1934, 100 years later, and attracts tourists and even garland-bearing worshippers.
Wat Sala Loi is notable for its modern main chapel, designed in the shape of a Chinese junk. The distinctive design has won it several architectural awards and is worth a look for those who relish the unusual. It’s on the far northwestern end of town along the Lam Tha Khong River.
There are a number of budget choices in town. If in a pinch and you just want to crash near the train station, try Tokyo Hotel (329/333 Surnaree Rd.; Tel. 0 4424-2873) with very basic air-conditioned rooms starting at just 350B($8.50). The Sripatana is the town’s old standby and, though it has seen better days, is similarly good in a pinch and convenient to downtown. Very basic rooms start at 360B ($8.80) and you can get there by songtao from the station easily (346 Suranaree Rd., just east of the station; Tel. 0 4425-5349).
Chomsurang Hotel Small but tidy rooms are better than the many budget stops in town, but nothing special; some rooms are quite run-down so ask to have a look before checking in. The Chomsurang is in the old city and close to the popular Night Market. They have a small pool, a decent restaurant, the niceties found in the city’s better places, but it’s wanting of a few dabs of paint and some new carpeting throughout.
547 Mahatthai Rd., Khorat (near the Night Market on Manat Rd.). Tel. 0 4425-7088. Fax 04425-2897. 119 units. 850B–1,300B ($19–$29) double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; pool; limousine service; limited room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming.
Royal Princess Khorat The best hotel in Khorat, with a friendly and helpful staff, a little removed from the hubbub of this very busy city and yet convenient to transportation—the Princess offers all the usual amenities plus the best pool in town, a tennis court, a business center, meeting rooms, boutiques, laundry and room service, a nightclub, and two restaurants.
1137 Suranarai Rd., Naimuang District, Khorat 30000 (northeast of town, near the stadium). Tel. 0 4425-6629. Fax 04425-6601. 186 units. 1,500B–20,500B ($38–$50) double; from 4,000B ($98) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; pool; tennis court; fitness center; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, safe.
Sima Thani Hotel Second only to the Royal Princess, Sima Thani is a fine city hotel. Its new wing adds more than 100 rooms, and while the hotel is situated just along the main highway, it’s surprisingly quiet. The spacious five-story atrium lounge is especially handsome and inviting. The rooms are large and modern and the large granite-faced bathrooms are particularly attractive. There’s a good pool, a fitness center with excellent saunas, two restaurants, a pub, and a bar. Spring the extra bit for a larger deluxe room near the pool. They’ve got good in-house movies, some so new they can’t be legal. Mittraphap Rd., Khorat 30000 (next to the TAT office, west of town). Tel. 0 4421-3100. Fax 04421-3121. 265 units. 1,300B–1,500B ($32–$37) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pool; fitness center (with sauna and massage); limited room service; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge.
Just south and east of the Monument of Thao Suranari within the old city, Ton Som Restaurant serves good Thai fare in laid-back diner atmosphere. They have an extensive English menu and a friendly staff. Try the local special of dried beef with sesame garnish or the spicy cucumber salad and enjoy the accompanying old American folk and rock compilations they play (You’re sure to hear some real throw-back stuff. Two words: Doobie Brothers). (125/129 Watcharasarit Rd., near the Chomsurang Hotel; Tel. 0 4425-2275; credit cards accepted; daily 10am–11pm).
Khorat Pizza Shop is a popular expat hangout serving good thin-crust pies with all the fixin’s starting at just 60B/$1.50 (430 Suranaree Rd.; Tel. 0 4426-1251; cash only; daily 11am–10pm). It is a good place to pick up the dope on local travel. Not far from Nanta Travel and just next to the Sripatana Hotel.
You can have an interesting evening at the Khorat Night Market, on Manat Road south of Chumphon Road, where there are more than 100 stands selling everything from cooking utensils, jeans, and nylon bags to a wide variety of snack food—you can hop from one stand to another for an inexpensive meal. It opens daily at dusk, about 6 to 10pm, depending on the time of year. Around the New Year it gets especially festive.
For a bit of nightlife, take a stroll along Chomsurangyat Road west from the center of town and check out the bars and clubs—there’s something for everyone.
319km (197 miles) NE of Bangkok; 60km (37 miles) N of Khorat; 245km (152 miles) S of Udon Thani Along with Prasat Hin Phanom Rung (see “Side Trips from Surin,” later in this chapter), the completely restored ruins at Phimai are a highlight of any tour of Isan. In fact, because the site is in such a good state of repair, it’s an excellent primer for visiting Khmer temples elsewhere (in other words, Angkor Wat in Cambodia). The finished style of the structure offers a glimpse of the original condition and design of lesser reconstructed/excavated sites.
By Bus There aren’t any direct bus routes from Bangkok, so you’ll have to stop in Khorat first. From the Bus Terminal II in the north end of Khorat on Rte. 2, buses run every 30 minutes between 5:30am and 10pm. (trip time: 90 min.; 35B/85¢). The bus lets you off at the end of Chomsudasadet Road.
By Car The most direct route is north from Khorat on Route 2; take the eastbound Phimai turnoff.
However you arrive in Phimai, you’re sure to pass the main Chedi of the Phimai Historical Park and can orient yourself from there. Buses will drop you off near the park’s southern entrance at the intersection of Chomsudasadet Rd. (east-west) and Anantjinda (north-south) adjacent to the Tourist Police office.
The museum is a 10-minute walk north of the park (along the east side). You can easily walk between the main attractions but rental bicycles are available from a few shops along Chomsudasadet Road by the bus stop. A few people make their living peddling trishaws to the sites and there are a few tuk-tuks putting about too.
The Tourist Police office at the main intersection (Tel. 0 4434-1777) offers information and a map of the town. You’ll find a couple of banks with ATMs on Anantajinda Road near the main entrance of the historical park—one just across from the Tourist Police.
A celebration of dance, lights, and music honoring ancient Phimai is held annually in late October or early November (contact the TAT) as part of the Phimai Festival. Lopburi-period stage performances and a play depicting scenes from the Ramayana are presented at the Sanctuary. Other aspects of the festival include the Northeastern Boat Racing Championship, historical and cultural exhibitions, and a costume parade.
Massive sandstone columns form the entrance to the gallery. One very distinctive Khmer architectural motif is the balustrade window; archaeologists believe that many of these windows contained other decorative elements that haven’t survived. The elegant doorways are particularly attractive. Anantjinda Rd. Tel. 0 4447-1518. Admission 40B ($1). Daily 7:30am–6pm.
Outside, but within the museum compound, you’ll also find an open-air wing with a small collection of some of the finest carved lintels in Isan—some from other sites in Si Saket, Buriram, and Khorat. Buchayan Rd. Tel. 0 4447-1167. Admission 30B (75¢). Daily 9am–4pm.
If you find yourself spending the night in Phimai, there are two small and inexpensive inns just in town: The Old Phimai Guest House (Tel. 0 4447-1918), a teak mansion with small fan-cooled doubles for 200B ($4.55); and the slightly more upscale Phimai Hotel (Tel. 0 4447-1940), with air-conditioned rooms that run 380B to 600B ($8.60–$14), some with satellite TV. Both are on Chomsudasadet Road, just around the corner from the historical park.
For dining near the site Bai-Teiy Restaurant (Tel. 0 4447-1725) has the best location and good affordable fare (just south of the park entrance; can’t miss their big sign). There is a Night Market, located near the southeast corner of the site, for extremely inexpensive food and casual dining; open nightly 6pm to midnight.
The large hotels in town attract big conventions from Bangkok and therefore, along with local nightlife, cater to boisterous conventioneers. It is a pleasant, thriving city though and worth a wander. Those interested in silk may want to make time to visit the silk village of Chonnabot.
By Plane Thai Airways flies four times daily to Khon Kaen from Bangkok (flying time: 55 min.). For Bangkok booking contact them at (Tel. 0 2545-1000 ), and in Khon Kaen contact them at 183/6 Maliwan Rd. (Tel. 0 4322-7701-4).
There are several tour operators in Khon Kaen that provide airport transfers for 50B ($1.10).
By Train Khon Kaen is connected by rail to Bangkok via Nakhon Ratchasima. The northeasterm line branches off so make sure you’re on the right line. Five trains a day leave from Bangkok (trip time: 8 hr. on rapid train, 7 hr. by express train; second class 185B/$4.50). Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Station can be reached at tel. 0 2223-7010 or 1690.
The Khon Kaen Railway Station (Tel. 0 4322-1112, 0 4322-1754) is at the end of Ruenrom Road, which leads you to Nangmuang Road and Klangmuang Road, the main arteries of the town. Many tuk-tuk drivers wait to take you to your hotel from the station for between 30B and 50B (75¢ and $1.20).
By Bus One VIP 24-seater bus leaves daily from Bangkok’s Northeastern Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 2936-2852-66, 0 2936-2841-48 extension 442,311 ) (trip time: 6 hr.; 400B/$9.75). Hourly air-conditioned buses leave daily from Nakhon Ratchasima’s (Khorat) Bus Terminal II (trip time: 3 hr. 67B/$1.65). From the town of Khon Kaen call tel. 0 4323-9910 for schedules of air-conditioned buses from the city. The bus terminal is located in the heart of the town, on Soi Ruajit between Srichan and Ammart roads. Songtao can take you to your hotel from here for about 30B–40B (75¢–$1).
By Car The most direct route from either Bangkok or Udon Thani is on Route 2.
The city is laid out in a simple grid system. The railway station is on the southwestern edge of town on Rueorom Road. The two main north-south boulevards are Na-Muang Road on the west and Klang Muang Road on the east, while Phimpasut Road forms a northern perimeter in the central section.
The TAT office (Tel. 0 4324-4498-9) is inconveniently located on Prachasamosorn Road between Klangmuang and Langmuang roads but has good driving maps and information about day trips in the area. The Tourist Police share the TAT building and can be reached 24 hours a day at tel. 0 4323-6937. The Khon Kaen Hospital (Tel. 0 4333-6789 extension 2000, 1178) is on Sichan Road.
Charoen Thani Princess This handsome 20-story hotel is a good choice for location and convenience. Facilities include a swimming pool with a nice view, a bakery, drugstore, and an excellent Chinese restaurant. Attractive, comfortable rooms have quality amenities. It’s a large property serving many big conventions (just next to the Sofitel) and the Charoen is a good base to explore area nightlife.
260 Srichan Rd., Khon Kaen 40000 (midway between train and bus stations, off Srichan and Na-Muang rds.). Tel. 0 4322-0400. Fax 04322-0438. 320 units. 2,330B ($57) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; pool; fitness center; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, safe.
Hotel Sofitel Raja Orchid Khon Kaen You can’t miss this, the tallest building in town, and the newest modern structure to grace Khon Kaen’s skyline.
Hotel Sofitel provides excellent service and the finest facilities available. Rooms are large, modern, and elegant—a great facility for an upcountry provincial capital. They offer a top-notch health and fitness center, beauty salon, outdoor swimming pool, and spa. Sofitel’s dining and entertainment options are second to none—with Western, Chinese, and Vietnamese restaurants, plus bakery and sushi bar. Come here in the evenings for a great time at Kronen Brauhaus, Studio 1 Karaoke, their lobby lounge or modern disco with live music. It is, by far, the best choice for quality services and entertainment in the city.
9/9 Prachasumran Rd., Khon Kaen, 40000 (behind Charoen Thani Princess Hotel). Tel. 0 4332-2155. Fax 04332-2150. 297 units. 3,000B–3,300B ($73–$81) double; from 4,200B ($102) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; pool; fitness center; spa w/massage; concierge; limousine service; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge.
Khon Kaen Hotel The Khon Kaen Hotel is very popular with Thai businesspeople and is often full. Rooms are clean but Spartanly furnished. The benefit over Kaen Inn (above) is a quieter location in an inner courtyard off the main road and a kind and helpful staff. If they’re full, the 200 rooms of the next door Roma Hotel (50/2 Klangmuang Rd.; Tel. 0 4324-2458) are a bit rough but affordable (starting at 350B/$8.50) and the hotels share services. For a similar standard, try nearby Kaen Inn Hotel (Tel. 0 4324-5420). There are a few good little restaurants and an Internet café nearby.
43/3 Phimpasut Rd., Khon Kaen, 40000 (near the intersection with Na-Muang Rd.).Tel. 0 4323-7711. Fax 04324-2458. 130 units. 500B–600B ($12–$15) double; from 1,000B ($24) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.
First Choice Restaurant (18/8 Pimpasut Road; opposite Khon Kaen Hotel) is a friendly traveler’s stop, the only in town really. They serve good backpacker eats like fried noodle or rice and have facsimile Western food (burgers and dogs) for very little. It’s the best place to pickup maps, advice on travel or meet up with fellow wanderers.
There are coffee shop–style restaurants in the major hotels, but try dining al fresco at the Khon Kaen Market, off Klang Muang Road near the department store. The area has a well-deserved reputation for the piquancy of its food, so easy does it at first.
Prathamakant Local Goods Center, 79/2–3 Ruenrom Rd. (Tel. 0 4322-1042), is the number one handicrafts emporium in Khon Kaen, if not in this section of Isan. They stock a fine selection of silk woven in Khorat, Chonnabot, Chaiyaphum, and other smaller villages. They also have cotton weaves of various styles, especially mutmee or ikat. They carry craftwork from all other regions of the country at good prices and the staff is friendly and helpful.
By Plane Thai Airways has three flights daily from Bangkok (flying time: 55 min.). The Thai Airways office is at 60 Makkang Rd. Airport transfers can be arranged at the airport for about 50B ($1.20) to town. Thepcharoen Travel Co. (Tel. 0 4234-3040) arranges budget flights and transfers.
By Train Udon Thani is connected by rail to Bangkok via Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) as well as to Nong Khai to the north. Five trains a day leave from Bangkok Hua Lamphong Railway Station and it is best as an overnight (trip time: 10–11 hr. on rapid train, 81⁄2 hr. by express train; second-class sleeper car with fan is 379B–429B/$9.25–$10.45 for upper/lower; air-conditioned sleeper cars are 549B–619B/$13–$15).The Railway Station in Udon (Tel. 0 4222-2061) is on the very east side of town. From there, you can
catch a songtao or samlor (pedicab) to your hotel starting at 30B (75¢).
By Bus One daily VIP 24-seater bus leaves from Bangkok Northeastern Bus Terminal (trip time: 9 hr.; 500B/$12). Regular air-conditioned buses leave regularly throughout the day and cost 251B to 322B ($6.20–$7.85).
Hourly buses connect to towns throughout Isan and other parts of Thailand. There are several bus stations in Udon Thani and it is very confusing. Ask at any hotel front desk and they can point you in the right direction. Buses to and from Bangkok and Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) stop on Wattana Road, on the southeast side of town, just northeast of the train station. Buses to and from Ban Chiang and Sakhon Nakhon to the east stop on Phosi Road, southwest of town (Tel. 0 4222-2916). Buses to and from Nong Khai and the north stop at the corner of Rop Muang Road and Udon Dutsadee Road in the north of town (Tel. 0 4222-2916). Buses to and from Loei, Phitsanulok, and Chiang Mai stop on the Phosi Road north of town (Tel. 0 4224-7788).
By Car The most direct route from either Bangkok or Nong Khai is on Route 2 (Friendship Hwy.). There is a Budget Car Rental office at the airport (Tel. 0 4524-0507).
The airport and train station are located on the southeast end of town as are many tourist services. The main north-south artery is Phosi Road (often spelled Phosri), which is the largest commercial strip in Udon. The hub of the town is the Charoensri Shopping Complex around which you’ll find many services.
There is a man-made lake and large open park, Nong Phra Jak, on the north end of town which is worth a wander. The best way to get around is by samlor (pedicabs that are, oddly, called “skylabs”) or tuk-tuk.
A small TAT office (16/5 Kukkhamontri Rd.; Tel. 0 4232-5406-7) can be found in the government complex across Nong Phra Jak park in the north end of town, about 100 meters off Phosi Road. Bangkok Bank on Prajak Road has ATM and exchange services. The Udon Thani Hospital (Tel. 0 4230-0019, 0 4234-0257-60) is on Pho
Niyom Road; the emergency number for the police is tel. 0 4222-2285. Most national banks have branch offices on Phosi Road. The post office is on Wattana Road, near the lake. There is Internet service on Prachak Road just across from the Charoensri Shopping Complex.
Charoen Hotel This was the best hotel in town before Charoensri (below) came on the scene but they are both comparable in services. The rooms are quiet, clean, and large and the new 100-room wing is still the better choice, but older rooms have recently undergone some good cosmetic renovations. There’s a pool in the front court and they have good in-house dining.
549 Phosi Rd., Udon Thani, 41000 (near the train station). Tel. 0 4224-8155. Fax 04224-1093. 250 units.
1,000B–1,300B ($24–$32) double; from 2,000B ($49) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; pool; laundry service. In room: A/C.
Charoensri Grand Royal Hotel Convenient to the train station, downtown shopping (they’re part of the Charoensri shopping Complex), services and nightlife, this is by far the best choice in town. Quiet and quite plush rooms are outfitted in handsome colors and feature dark wood furnishings, tidy carpets and fine linen spreads—a choice city hotel for very little. Bathrooms aren’t particularly big, but are done in marble tile. They have a small pool and health club and an international dining outlet and the large adjoining shopping center has lots of useful services and cheap eats. They offer some rock-bottom discounts in the off-season.
277/1 Prachak Rd., Udon Thani, 41000 (west of the railway station, you can’t miss the mall just next door). Tel. 0 4234-3555. Fax 04234-3550. 255 units. 1,500B ($37) double; from 2,200B ($54) suite. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; pool; fitness center; concierge; limousine service; business center; shopping mall adjacent; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, safe.
Karin Hotel Plain tile cells, very clean with air-conditioning and satellite TV are a real bargain at this convenient hotel just east of the town center and the Charoensri Complex. There are no services to speak of and the front desk service seems to have found some old handbook on Soviet-style inefficiency, but the place is always full of local business travelers, tourists and expats on visa runs and is a good bargain that is comparable to the Udorn Hotel (but a bit more tidy).
37 Wattanuwong Rd., Udon Thani, 41000 (east and north of the Charoensri Complex).Tel. 0 4232-0515. 130 units. 400B ($9.75) double. MC,V. Amenities: Restaurant; laundry. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge.
Udorn Hotel The rooms at the Udorn (same-same Udon) are drab, but it is the best budget option in town and offers similar facilities to other hotels at half the rate (take “very little” and then cut it in half ). The staff is as helpful as your miming abilities. Be sure to take a room away from the busy street.
81–89 Makkang Rd., Udon Thani (near the intersection with Prajak Rd., in the central area). Tel. 0 4224-8160. Fax 04224-2782. 190 units. 460B–540B ($10–$12) double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; limited room service; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge.
Local places with al fresco dining and good local food are all along Prachak Road across from the Charoensri Grand Royal Hotel—a good bet. The signboards are in Thai, but the places sparkle with party lights and are full of diners and so are easy to spot. Also along this strip are a couple of beer gardens with live music—a nice entertainment option.
Steve’s Bar and Restaurant (254/26 Prajak Rd.; Tel. 0 4224-4523) is a popular expat haunt serving good burgers and familiar fare (also a good place to get the scoop on local happenings or advice on travel outside of Udon). They’re just around the corner and north of the Charoensri Center.
Rabiang Patchani THAI This is a fine spot for a good Thai meal in a quiet setting. Follow the southern lakeshore in the Nong Phra Jak park (north of town) and you can’t miss the twinkling lights of this romantic eatery across from the parks small suspension bridge. Guests are treated to linen and lake views for very little and a strolling balladeer completes the portrait. There are both outdoor deck seating and air-conditioned dining rooms and the food is authentic Thai with lots of local Isan and Laotian dishes like laap (spicy mince) and som tam (papaya salad). I had a great panaeng curry and stir-fried vegetables for a song.
53/1 Thanon Ban Non, Em Muang Udon. Tel. 0 4224-1515. Main courses 45B–250B ($1.10–$6.10). Cash only. Daily 9am–11pm.
In the years 1974 to 1975 the governmental Fine Arts Department, in conjunction with the University of Pennsylvania, led a major excavation of sites within the village. This in turn led to the discovery of ceramic vessels, metal implements and tools, woven fabric, and human skeletons that date from 3,600 B.C. More recent dating of the metal objects has revised their date of manufacture forward to about 2,000 B.C., but this still places a technologically advanced civilization in northeast Thailand earlier than in any other area of eastern Asia.
Although little is known about the people who inhabited the village, it is thought that they descended from the so-called Hoabinhians, Stone Age people who lived in Southeast Asia from 12,000 to 5,000 B.C. Excavation indicates three separate periods of development. The Early Period lasted for approximately 2,600 years, while the so-called Middle Period began in 1,000 B.C. and continued to 300 B.C. The Late Period extended through A.D. 200, after which Ban Chiang is thought to have been deserted.
The museum was built with funds from the Kennedy Foundation and houses the best examples of archaeological finds in town, walks visitors through the process of pottery-making and ancient metallurgy and tells of the history of the excavation, of how it was literally “stumbled onto” by an American graduate student and then unearthed by a dedicated team in the mid-1970s.
The museum is open daily from 8:30am to 4:30pm, closed on all national holidays; admission is 30B (75¢). To get there, take a Ban Chiang–bound minivan for 22B (50¢). Local buses between Udon and Sakhon Nakon to the east will dump you at the highway junction some 6km (33⁄4 miles) from the site, and you’ll have to grab a tuk-tuk or motorcycle taxi from the road to take you in (costs about 60B/$1.50 for the round-trip, but they’ll demand much more to begin with and they have you over a barrel here at roadside). If you plan on continuing your tour east to Nakhon Panom, you can bring your luggage so you don’t have to return to Udon; you can flag down the eastbound bus on the main road. Small tour agencies in Udon specialize in day trips; try the storefront tour operators near the central shopping complex or any hotel travel desk.
BAN CHIANG EXCAVATION SITE One of the archaeological pits in Ban Chiang is open to the public. There are a few full-skeletal remains and it is an interesting visit if any new digging is underway. It’s within the grounds of Wat Pho Si Nai, only a 5-minute walk from the museum. It is open every day from dawn to dusk, and admission is free with museum ticket.
BAN KHAMOH and BAN PHU POTTERY VILLAGES If you admire the earthenware in the Ban Chiang Museum, stop by Ban Khamoh, located along the main road near Ban Chiang. Seven families reproduce Ban Chiang–era pottery for the tourist market. Villagers consider their work a revival of an ancient craft and the pots make fine souvenirs if you can carry one with you. Do not give lip-service to any claims of “antiquity”; when the first sites were discovered at Ban Chiang, residents were offered enormous amounts of money by dealers to “excavate” their fields for antiques that found their way to Japan, Europe, and America, but the items at these stalls are mere reproductions. On the road to the main excavation site, local craftspeople decorate the pots in swirling geometric forms. These are then taken directly to the souvenir stands opposite the Ban Chiang Museum or sold to distributors in other parts of Thailand. Any day tour can make stops at either location.
520km (322 miles) NE of Bangkok; 344km (213 miles) N of Nakhon Ratchasima; 206km (128 miles) NW of Khon Kaen; 202km (125 miles) W of Nong Khai; 269km (167 miles) NE of Phitsanulok When first trying to pronounce it, Western visitors get a good lesson in the tones of the Thai language. No one will understand you until you can emit the low throaty drawl (not unlike a mooing cow) of the town name, but Loei folks are glad to teach you (the vowel sound is like elongating the “U” sound in “put” followed by a long “e”). And, as you struggle, they’ll laugh, and, in due course, you’ll be laughing your way into this little backwater. For even more of a hoot, come for the yearly Pi Tha Khon Festival held in the nearby village of Don Sai.
It’s a wild and memorable event. Loei fills up at this time so be sure to call well in advance to make any arrangements. Outside of the Pi Tha Khon Festival and the big Cotton Festival in the first week of February, not much happens in sleepy Loei but it’s a good jumping off point for rural day trips or to make the loop up through the Mekong Valley to Nong Khai (see below).
By Bus One VIP 24-seater bus each day leaves for Loei from Bangkok’s
Northeastern Bus Terminal (trip time: 9 hr., 495B/$12); slower standard buses cost 320B ($7.20). From Udon the trip takes 4 hours (53B/$1.30). Frequent buses connect with points north along the Laos border, Chiang Khang (40B/$1) or on to Nong Khai (84B/$2).
By Car The most direct route from Khon Kaen is west on Route 12 and north on Route 201. From Udon, travel west on Route 210 and north on Route 201. From Nong Khai, travel west along the Mekong on Route 212.
There is a new TAT office in Loei at the Old District Office (Charoenrat Rd.; Tel. 0 4281-2812). They have some good info about visiting nearby national parks. The Loei Hospital (Tel. 0 4281-1541, 0 4281-1679) is on Loei-Chiang Khan Road; the emergency number for the police is tel. 0 4281-1254. Most national banks have branch offices in town with normal operating hours; if making tours north along the Mekong or west, change money in Loei as there are no other banks in the area. There are a few Internet storefronts with basic service near the central market; try PA Computers on Charoenrat Rd. on the edge of town near the Loei Palace Hotel.
There’s nothing really stunning about the sleepy town of Loei and that is really the draw for some—a good place to take a wander through the small central market or along small streets lined with seeming impromptu workshops. In town, follow along Charoenrat Road or intersecting Haisoke Road and you’ll find, among other things, a bank, the Night Market, hotels and restaurants, and shops open at night.
Loei Palace Hotel Compared to other accommodation in the area, this place is a palace indeed. Operated by the Amari Hotel group (a well-known Thai chain), the Loei Palace could hold its own though in other, more developed parts of the kingdom, too. The entrance is grand, an open-air pavilion that gives way to a courtyard of seven floors and further to fine views of the surrounding area.
Set apart from the town center by a small river, the Palace is a quiet and luxurious getaway free of all traffic noise. Guest rooms are sumptuously furnished for the price, featuring new carpets and dark trim, crown-molding, built-in cabinetry and grand headboards. Fine indirect lighting at bedside or illuminating stylish desk areas completes the effect. Beds are as soft as they come and bathrooms are large, have bathtubs and are done in fine granite tile. The second-floor pool has a “vanishing edge” spillover facing some great views. From higher floors you can see the distant bell-shaped plateau of Phu Kradung and many of the upper-level suites are well worth the upgrade for the views and added space and comfort. The efficient staff can help with any arrangements for onward travel.
167/4 Caroenrat Rd., Loei 42000. Tel. 0 4281-5668. www.amari.com. 156 units. 2,120B ($51) double 3,300B–5,650B ($80–$138) suite. V, MC. Amenities: Restaurant; pub; outdoor pool; small fitness center; sauna; business center; Internet; limited room service; massage; nonsmoking rooms. In room: AC, TV, minibar, fridge.
King’s Hotel Rooms are large and clean but very basic with Spartan furnishings and shower-in-room bathrooms. Common areas are open-air and, like all guestrooms, are done in clean white tile. Apart from the helpful front desk staff (few speak much English though) and popular Can Can Restaurant, there’s little else in the way of facilities. King’s is the best basic choice for staying in the town center. If they’re full, try the nearby Phu Luang Hotel at 55 Charoenrat Rd. (Tel. 0 4281-1532) which is comparable but just a bit more run down.
1241 Haisoke Rd., Loei 42000 (southeast side of town center). Tel. 0 4281-1701. Fax 04281-1235. 50 units.
400B–1,200B ($9.75–$29) double. Cash only. Amenities: Restaurant; massage; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV.
As is the rule in Thai towns, the Night Market of Loei, just off Charoenrat Road, is the cheapest dining in town; the food stalls are set up at about 6pm and close around 11pm—and a stroll through the market is a feast for the senses.
Dining at Can Can Restaurant in the lobby of the King’s Hotel (above) is the best choice for the safe and familiar. The name, Can Can, really means what it says: They in fact “can can” do or “have have” everything from burgers to good Thai for little (daily 6:30am–10pm; main courses 35B–180B/85¢–$4.40).
One of the most scenic areas in Thailand and delightfully secluded, the northwestern perimeter of Isan runs along the wide Mekong River which forms the border with Laos. This is a great trip for self-drive by car, motorbike or even by bicycle. The terrain is relatively flat, the road is only lightly trafficked and in a good state of repair, and there are a number of villages where you can stop.
From Chiang Khan, Route 211 follows the Mekong east to Pak Chom and Si Chiang Mai before arriving in Nong Khai. Buses and songtao make all of these connections: from Chiang Khan to Pak Chom, it’s 20B (50¢) and the 100 km (60 miles) from Pak Chom to Si Chiang Mai costs 37B (90¢). Just flag-down anything rolling east and you’ll get there, but the green buses run regular schedules and are the best bet. The route passes lush banana plantations, terraced fruit farms and small manganese mines. Cotton and tomato fields fan out along the verdant flood plains of the Mekong basin. Farther inland are lovely waterfalls like Nam Tok Than Thip (between Pak Chom and Si Chiang Mai), which are fun for hiking and ideal for picnics.
Don’t miss the unique gold tower of the Prasutham Chedi just west of Si Chiang Mai along the main road and Wat Hin Mak Peng which is some 30km (19 miles) west of Sri Chiang Mai and a glorious temple site overlooking the Mekong.
Si Chiang Mai is opposite Vientiane, the capital of the Lao People’s Democratic Republic, and is but 58km (36 miles) due west of Nong Khai. The town is just a quiet Thai backwater. Walks along the long concrete pier or relaxing and watching Lao and Thai long-tail boats load and unload or chugging up and down river is about all that’s going on here. In the evenings, join in a game of badminton or a circle of people juggling a takra (a small bamboo soccer ball).
There are lots of little open-air eateries at riverside and a few small guesthouses along the quay at town center (try Tim Guest House, Tel. and fax 04245-1072; very basic rooms from 80B–150B/$1.95–$3.65). The best place in town is the Maneerat Resort (74 Rimkong Rd.; along the eastern end of the quay; Tel. 0 4245-1311) with basic but clean air-conditioned rooms starting at 450B ($11) and a friendly and helpful staff.
615km (381 miles) NE of Bangkok; 51km (32 miles) N of Udon Thani; 356km (221 miles) N of Nakhon Ratchasima; 202km (125 miles) E of Loei; 303km (188 miles) W of Nakhon Phanom Completion of the Friendship Bridge spanning the Mekong to Tha Dua, Laos (adjacent to the capital Vientiane) has meant a rise in commercial and tourist traffic through Nong Khai. Lots of travelers just zip through on their way to the rough roads of Laos and new visa-on-arrival services make that even easier and many expats living in Thailand make the proverbial “visa run” across the border here (cross to Laos to get a new Thai visa) and Lao and Thai trade is growing by leaps. But despite the increased traffic and development of larger hotels to meet the need, Nong Khai retains much of its small-town charm. More laid-back than most border-towns, Nong Khai is a distinct little enclave that goes at its own pace. The town is the starting point for some unique day trips.
Indochina Market, Tha Sadet (not to be missed!). A 30B (75¢) tuk-tuk ride gets you to the railway station or to the Friendship Bridge (whether crossing or not, it’s a good vantage point on the bustling town) and Nong Khai is also a good hub for exploration of all of the sites in the north of Isan (including places like Ban Chiang; see the “Udon Thani & Ban Chiang” section earlier in this chapter).
Expats here live in blissful hideaways along the riverside and many who plan on just passing through extend for a bit longer, then maybe a bit more.
Tips Swimmer’s Alert
If on your Mekong trip or at any point during your travels you take a swim in the river, be aware that each year many Thai residents drown due to the treacherous currents. Stay close to the shore and make sure that you swim with someone else, or request that somebody keep an eye out.
By Plane The nearest airport is in Udon Thani, but from there you can hire a transfer from the airport to Nong Khai. See “Getting There” in the Udon section.
By Train Nong Khai is connected by rail to Bangkok via Khorat. Three trains a day depart from Bangkok (trip time: 11 hr. on rapid train; second-class sleeper with fan is 398B–448B/$9.70–$11 for upper/lower; air-conditioned sleeper is 568B–639B/$14–$16) with both morning and evening departures.
By Bus Two daily VIP 24-seater buses leave from Bangkok’s Northeastern Bus Terminal to Nong Khai (trip time: 10 hr.; 545B/$12). Many buses travel to Nong Khai daily from Udon Thani (trip time: 45 min.; 17B/41¢) or from rural points east and west. You’ll find both the standard and VIP bus stations on Prajuk road some three long blocks from the river (tuk-tuk or samlor just 20B/50¢ to most destinations).
By Car The most direct route from either Bangkok or Udon Thani is on Route 2 (Friendship Hwy.). For a good drive, take Route 211 west to travel along the Mekong to Loei, via Si Chiang Mai, Pak Chom, and Chiang Khan (see above).
The TAT office is way out near the bridge checkpoint (Tel. 0 4246-7844) and inconvenient. For the best and most interesting info, stop by Mutmee Guest House (111/4 Kaeworawut Rd.; Tel. 0 4246-0717); see “Where to Stay,” below.
Most hotels and guesthouses have maps and small tour desks, but the folks at Mutmee aren’t trying to sell you tours, just offer the best information about side trips and connection to Laos.
Nearly all tourist facilities and sites are located on three parallel streets running along the Mekong. The closest to the river is Rimkhong Road. Meechai Road is a commercial thoroughfare along which you’ll find the post office, the hospital, and Bangkok Bank, at 374 Si Saket Rd., open Monday to Friday 8am to 8pm. The farthest of the three main roads is Prajak Road, on which you’ll find Thai Airways, the air-conditioned and VIP bus terminals, and Pochai Market, near the regular bus station on the east side. The train station is on the western edge of town. No distance—with the exception of the train station—within town is beyond a long walk, or if you have luggage, a 20B (50¢) samlor (pedicab) or tuk-tuk ride.
There are a number of banks along Meechai and busy Prajak roads. The postoffice is on Meechai Road near the central market.
Tha Sadet, or the Indochina Market, is the main attraction in Nong Khai and it’s certainly worth a wander. Prices are good for anything from unique silver work from Laos, to fine local weaving to that wind-up, swimming plastic scubadiver toy that you’ve always wanted. The market occupies a wide swath at the town center along Rimkhong Road.
There’s an interesting hybrid architectural style in Nong Khai. On the east side of town, along Meechai Road, are several mansions built in the early 20th century in what might best be described as French-Chinese colonial style.
Stroll among the unique statuary on the large grounds at Wat Kaek and feed the gluttonous carp in one of the many ponds. Don’t miss the didactic “Wheel of Life” which tells, in visual allegory, the process of Buddhist Samsara, life’s path that is so barbed by struggle and attachment to the ephemeral. Mutmee Guesthouse (see “Where to Stay”) publishes a useful map of the details of the wheel of life. A visit here makes for a great afternoon and getting to the wat is a fun bicycle ride east along the river, then a hitch south, (total about 5km/3 miles). Entrance is just 10B (25¢) and the park is open daily from 8:30am to 6pm.
Budget accommodations line the small streets all over town. Starting at just 100B ($2.40), places like Mae Khong Guesthouse (519 Rimknong Rd.; )04246-0689) just west of the market, offer rough little rooms that fill right up in high season, just an example of the many options.
Nong Khai Grand Hotel The top choice in town, the Grand is a fine, professional hotel. Set back far enough off the main highway to be quiet, yet close enough to town for an easy walk, the hotel features a good swimming pool, a few fine bars and eateries (including Bird’s Eye rooftop grill; see “Where to Dine,” below) and all the amenities of a city business hotel. Rooms are large and decorated in a cookie-cutter, chain-hotel style but are well maintained and clean with balconies and big bathrooms. One drawback: have a look at the room before you check in as some get musty or, on any but their one nonsmoking floor, can be well smoked-out.
589 Moo 5, Nong Khai-Poanpisai Rd., Nong Khai 43000 (just south of town on highway). Tel. 0 4242-0033. Fax 04241-2026. www.nongkhaigrand.com. 126 units. 2,500B–3,000B ($61–$73) double; from 5,000B ($122) suite. AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; disco; pool; snooker room; tour desk; limited room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, no phone.
Mutmee Guest House Many budget guesthouses advertise as “relaxed” or “laid-back”; what that means quite often is that no one is around and nothing works. Not true of Mutmee GH, which sets the standard for laid-back but efficient accommodation and is a popular meeting point for budget travelers. It is the best choice in town for getting the scoop on local doings and places to go.
Rooms are a fun hodge-podge ranging from quaint garden bungalows and large second-floor rustic suites to smaller, cheap-Charlie cells on the first floor of a larger block. There is even one top standard room at riverside with air-conditioning.
The central garden is a great place to relax with a book and enjoy views of the river and Laos beyond. They serve great Thai meals, some of the best in town, and have a good system whereby guests keep track of their own bill and make orders themselves. Mutmee is close to the market, but far enough away for some quiet. It’s located at the end of a tranquil lane of two-story wooden homes housing good services like an Internet cafe, a gallery and a good bookstore.
Many folks come to spend one night on their way to Laos and a few days later say, “Laos? Who needs Laos?”
111/4 Kaeworawut Rd., Nong Khai (half a block from the waterfront next to Wat Haisok). Tel. 0 4246-0717. 28 units. 120B ($2.90) single w/fan; 210B–400B ($5.10–$9.75) double w/fan; 500B ($12) double w/A/C. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bicycle and motorbike rental; laundry service. In room: no phone.
Sawasdee Guest House Right in the middle of town along busy Meechai Road, the lobby of this unassuming, convenient budget stop is decorated in a curious mix of wagon-wheel Western and traditional Thai decor. Rooms are in a courtyard at the back. Some have air-conditioning but none are special, just a basic guesthouse standard and convenient to the town center. They have a good town map and rent out bicycles for 40B ($1).
NONG KHAI 363
402 Meechai Rd., Nong Khai, 43000 (1 block from the waterfront on the east side). Tel. 0 4241-2502. Fax 04242-0259. 15 units. 100B–380B ($2.40–$9.25). No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bike rental; tour information; laundry service. In room: No phone.
You’ll find great snacks in the market and small storefront restaurants scattered about town serving good affordable Thai or even Western in places like The Danish Baker (434 Meechai Rd.; Tel. 0 4246-0840). Check out Mutmee Guest House (see “Where to Stay,” above) for some really good, affordable Thai.
Bird’s Eye Restaurant THAI/INTERNATIONAL Not particularly luxurious for being on the top floor of the best hotel in town, The Bird’s Eye serves a good selection of Thai dishes, Western standbys and local river fish prepared as you like. Try local specials like papaya salad or grilled chicken with sticky rice.
What really sells the place is the view though: arrive before sunset to see across the river for a panoramic perch facing Laos. Later in the evening a live band plays Western music and soft pop.
In the Nong Khai Grand Hotel 589 Moo 5, Nong Khai-Poanpisai Rd. (just south of town). Tel. 0 4242-0033. 60B–250B ($1.30–$5.70). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–10:30pm.
Deng Nem Neung VIETNAMESE It’s pretty simple here; the restaurant name is also the whole menu: Deng Nem Neung, a Vietnamese dish of fried pork served on a platter with a selection of ingredients including rice noodles, cucumber and local fresh veggies which you combine in a rice-paper wrap to make your own spring-roll (it is a matter of skill really and mine kept coming out more like messy soft-tacos). The staff will walk you through it. Choose to sit in either their air-conditioned dining area or, across the street, at the open-air storefront. This is a very popular place, and Thai people come from far and wide, even make special trips here, to enjoy this tasty specialty. They also serve other Vietnamese dishes like spring rolls that require less dexterity. The sign is only in Thai but just look for the bright red and yellow “DN” mark and say the magic words, “Deng Nem Neung,” and anyone can point the way.
1062/1-2 Bantungji Rd. (on a small side-street just off the central market and across from the Mae Khong Guesthouse). Tel. 0 4241-1961. Range 50B–80B–150B ($1.20–$1.95–$3.65) per set for 1–2–3 people respectively. No credit cards. Daily 6:30am–8pm.
Udomros Restaurant THAI This riverside eatery is popular with both locals and travelers alike and serves very simple but tasty Thai cuisine. The delicious chicken with basil dish and a bubbling hot pot with meat and vegetables are specialties. Stop in for a drink and enjoy the riverview at sunset.
423 Rimkhong Rd. (next to the Immigration Office, overlooking the Mekong).Tel. 0 4242-1084. Main courses 40B–200B ($1–$4.90). No credit cards. Daily 11am–10pm.
Apart from the big, central market, there are lots of little boutiques and handicraft stores popping up all over town.
Village Weaver Handicrafts (Tel. 0 4241-1236), at 786/1 Prajak Rd., began as a community development project in 1982 and has become a large-scale enterprise. The idea was to provide a way for local weavers to practice their art and remain in their home villages. The shop offers a wide selection of fabric, ready-to-wear clothing, and a variety of household items.
ONWARD TO LAOS It’s tantalizingly close, just across the Friendship Bridge, and some even just scoot over for the day. The town of Vientiane has some interesting temples and is unique as the most laid-back country capital going. Visas are available upon arrival at many border checkpoints for just 1,500B ($36.60) and are good for 14 days (30 day visas can be arranged at any Lao Embassy). Bring a passport photo. For more information, contact the Lao Embassy in Bangkok (520/1–3 Soi 39 Ramkhamhaeng Rd.; Tel. 0 2539-6667) or in Khon Kaen (123 Phoathisan Rd. (Tel. 0 4322-3698). The border is open daily from early morning to 10pm and easily reached by tuk-tuk for about 40B ($1).
457km (283 miles) NE of Bangkok; 227km (141 miles) W of Ubon Ratchathani; 111km (69 miles) E of Buriram; 198km (123 miles) E of Khorat Surin is elephant country. Its festivals, excursions, and identity are intricately tied to the pachyderm. It seems that a tribal people, called the Suay, who were of either Lao or Thai ancestry, migrated from the Mekong valley. The villages that became Surin weren’t under the direct rule of the Thais, yet when a royal white elephant escaped from Ayutthaya, the Suay were brought in to capture King Suriyamarin’s prized animal. As a reward, the king conferred the honorific “Luang” on six men, one of whom was Luang Surintarapakdee Srinarongchangwang.
He later moved his village to the site of present day Surin, which officially become a Thai-ruled city under the Chakri dynasty in 1756.
Surin is home to some of the best silver work in Thailand, with finely made silver bracelets, baubles, and beads selling in high-end Bangkok shops (such as Gifted Hands), which would suggest that would-be buyers should attend Surin’s markets to sample the locally made wares.
By Train Surin is connected by rail to Bangkok via the Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat), Buriram, Ubon line. Seven trains a day leave from Bangkok (trip time: 10 hr. on ordinary train, 81⁄2 hr. by express train; second-class ordinary 209B/$4.75).
By Bus There’s a VIP 24-seater bus departing daily from the Northeastern Bus Terminal in Bangkok on Paholyothin Road (trip time: 6 hr.; 385B/$8.75). Four buses depart daily from Nakhon Ratchasima Bus Terminal II (trip time: 3 hr; 96B/$2.20).
By Car The most direct road from Bangkok is along Route 1 to Saraburi, turning east on Route 2 into Khorat (trip time: 4 hr.); travel south on Route 304 and continue east on Route 24.
There is no official information office in Surin; however, Khun Pirom and his wife, Khun Aree, at the Pirom Guest House (Tel. 0 4451-5140) are very helpful and arrange tours in the area. Saren Travel (Tel. 0 4451-3599), with an office in the lobby of the Thong Tarin Hotel also arranges tours and car rental.
Surin is a compact little city with a central market near the main street,
Thanasarn Road which terminates on the north end of town at the train station (the tracks mark the northern town line). On or near Thanasarn, within walking distance, you’ll find many services and a small department store. The market and the post office are just about in the exact center of Surin. The bus station is in the northeast quadrant of town, a very short ride or walk to most hotels.
The Provincial Hospital (Tel. 0 4451-1006) is on Tambon Nai Muang Rd; the emergency number for the police is tel. 0 4451-1007. The tour desk at the Thong Tarin Hotel (Tel. 0 4451-4281) can arrange car rental. There is Internet service in a small computer shop at the back of the Surin Plaza Shopping Center just west of the main road, Thanasarn.
Many people associate Surin solely with its famed Elephant Roundup, and though there are other compelling reasons to come here, this event is certainly a regional highlight. Each year, on the third Saturday and Sunday in November, the celebrated roundup takes place in the town stadium. It’s a mock-up of the old practice of gathering wild elephants to be trained and it’s a pretty stunning spectacle accompanied by events like elephant tug-of-war, an elephant talent contest, elephant soccer games, an elephant procession over their trainers, and a re-creation of a war formation involving elephants and soldiers. There is a weeklong Elephant Fair, a greatly expanded version of a typical Thai market, with food and crafts stalls, performances (including Surin folk tales), a rocket show, and rides. Surin is jammed with tourists from around the world during the event and all are advised to make any reservations far in advance.
To visit most of the attractions in and around Surin (those listed below), the best option is to book a guided trip with Khun Pirom at the Pirom Guest House (Tel. 0 4451-5140). Mr. Pirom has been in the business for years and guiding is just an extension of his passion for the ancient history and culture of this rural region. The most popular tours are to the many secluded Khmer temples in the area and he combines such visits with stops at elephant-training villages, towns of Khmer culture, handicraft villages and even trips to the weekend market at the Cambodian border. Trip prices range from 650B ($16) for half-day trips to 1,200B ($29) per person for all-day trips (discounts for larger groups). Saren Travel (Tel. 0 4451-3599), with an office in the lobby of the Thong Tarin Hotel, also arranges tours and car rental.
In the modern village of Ban Pluang, there are opportunities to watch and purchase silk weaving. The weaving shops are open daily from 8:30am to 5:30pm. Admission is 25B (60¢). Located 12km (71⁄2 miles) east of Surin, off Route 226, is Butom, a rural basket-weaving village. If you wander into the village, you’re bound to see a group of women weaving sturdy and attractive baskets under their stilt houses, usually accompanied by a Thai soap opera on a generator-run television.
It’s an odd sight, but the work is incredible; people come from Bangkok to make their purchases. There are several roadside stands that sell baskets, but you can also buy directly from the craftspeople. Two silk-weaving villages, both within about 20km (12 miles) of Surin, welcome visitors who wish to see demonstrations of traditional methods of manufacturing silk. Khawao Sinrin and Chanrom (the former on Rte. 214 north of Surin, the latter on Rte. 2077 to the east of town) are centers of handmade silk products, from thread to finished lengths of material, which are sold locally and in shops in Surin.
Hotels fill right up and some add a surcharge of up to 50% during the Elephant Roundup. The prices quoted below are the normal rates.
Petchkasem Hotel Until recently, this six-story high-rise was the best that Surin had to offer (it’s since been surpassed by the Tarin, see below), but don’t expect much in the way of luxury or service: It’s rather Spartan and a tad worn.
Nevertheless, the Petchkasem has a restaurant, coffee shop, disco, pool, and other services that make it a popular stop for locals.
104 Chitbumrung Rd., Surin 32000 (in the town center). Tel. 0 4451-1274. Fax 04451-4470. 162 units. 550B–700B ($13–$17) double. MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; disco; pool; limited room service; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, fridge.
Thong Tarin Hotel This is the best you’ll find in Surin. The sweeping entrance and grand lobby wants to be splendid and comes up a bit short, but the Tarin has a fine restaurant, a nightclub, and a very nice pool and, if it’s just an average business hotel elsewhere, in Surin it’s the Ritz. All rooms are clean and modern and the service and maintenance is a notch better than in other Isan hotels of this caliber. If you plan on visiting during the Elephant Roundup, you’ll be elbow-to-elbow with the who’s-who of Thailand, but the rest of the year it’s not too busy. The staff is very helpful and they have a good tour desk where they arrange visits to sights outside of town and offer car rental.
60 Sirirat Rd., Surin 32000 (just east of the bus station and town center). Tel. 0 4451-4281. Fax 04451-1580.
240 units. 1,200B–1,400B ($29–$34) double; from 3,000B ($73) suite. MC,V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; pool; tour desk; car rental; limited room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.
Pirom Guest House This is a guesthouse in the original sense of the term: here, you’re being offered hospitality in a real Thai home. There are only rustic amenities and the small collection of rooms is very basic with shared toilet and bathtub, but Mr. Pirom (who speaks excellent English) and his wife, Aree, are lovely hosts and both are extremely well informed about the area. Khun Pirom leads daily excursions to the more remote destinations around Surin and guides cultural tours throughout Isan (see “Side Trips from Surin” below).
242 Krungsrinai Rd., Surin, 32000 (west of the town center, 2 blocks west of the market). Tel. 0 4451-5140. 6 units and dormitory. 150B ($3.65) double w/fan; 70B ($1.70) dormitory room. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bicycle rental; tour desk; laundry service. In room: no phone.
There are a few busy restaurants on the narrow street, Jitbamrung, just east of the bus station in the direction of the Tarin Hotel. You won’t find English signs but ask for either Sumrub Tornkruang or Chantong Thai (201/18-20 Jitbamrung Rd.; Tel. 0 4451-5599) and you’ll get there; these restaurants both serve similar good snacks and basic entrees but only as an accompaniment for late night revelry (usually live bands). Nearby, the central market is abuzz all evening and serves basic Thai fare for the adventurous eater. If none of those fit the bill, try the many little fast-food shops in the Surin Plaza Shopping Center, the hub of town activity really.
BURIRAM Buriram, about halfway between Surin and Khorat (and easily reached by either bus, train, or car), is the capital of the province of the same name. The main reason for a stop there would be a visit to Phanom Rung, one of the best Khmer ruins in the world—but as facilities for foreign tourists have not developed as anticipated, we currently recommend you visit the site from Khorat or Surin.
Should you wish to overnight in Buriram, the only acceptable downtown choice is the Thai Hotel, 38/1 Romburi Rd. (Tel. 0 4461-1112), with drab airconditioned rooms starting at 220B ($5.50). Visa and MasterCard are accepted.
The temple, built on the summit of an inactive volcano, sits majestically above the wide plains, facing southeast toward Angkor in Cambodia. The approach is via a stairway, interrupted by pavilion-like bridges, lined on both sides with a multiheaded cobra, or naga (mythical serpent), in Angkor style. The base of the central structure was built in the 10th century and almost certainly housed Shiva imagery, such as a phallic lingam (the pipe that allowed water to cascade over the lingam is still in place) in a small temple enclosure. This building was expanded by the 12th century and is the main prang of the site. Above the finely carved Lopburi-period doors are lintels, each portraying an important Hindu character or incident, the most famous of which is that of the reclining Vishnu. Look carefully at the columns and supporting stones on the central buildings, as many are festooned with ornately carved Shivas, galloping elephants, and shapely Khmer dancers. At the periphery of the central buildings are several 13th-century structures, which are thought to have functioned as libraries.
To reach Phanom Rung by public transport from Khorat, take a Surin-bound bus to Ban Tak Koh (trip time: 2 hr.; 50B/$1.22) and take a tuk-tuk or songtao to the site. It’s open daily 8am to 5pm. Admission is 25B (60¢). Down the hill and about 8km (5 miles) from Phanom Rung in Ban Chorake (Village of Crocodiles) is Prasat Muang Tam, a largely unreconstructed Khmer site that features a series of ponds, framed by nagas (similar to the stairway at Phanom Rung), surrounding a gallery of prangs or stupas. Again, lintel carvings indicate a Brahmanic tradition, with the most significant frieze illustrating Shiva riding on the back of Nandi the Bull. It highlights the difference between a “found” site and one that has been reconstructed.
PRASAT PHRA WIHARN For the most intrepid traveler, the ruins at Khao Phra Wiharn are actually in Cambodia. The Thai government has negotiated a special right for foreign visitors who wish to visit this impressive Khmer temple.
Like the vista at Phanom Rung (see “Side Trips from Surin,” above), the view from Khao Phra Wiharn is remarkable and, in its day (12th c.), it was on par with Phimai and Phanom Rung as one of the major Khmer satellites of Angkor Wat. It takes a major effort to get to the site and it is best to go by tour or, for the adventurous, rent your own vehicle. Talk to Saren Travel or Khun Pirom at Pirom Guest House who makes this a regular stop on more off-the-track adventures.