Exploring Northern Thailand

Exploring Northern Thailand

Northern Thailand is home to the majority of Thailand’s half-million-plus tribal peoples, many of whom emigrated from Laos, southwestern China, Burma, and Tibet. Because of the ethnic, cultural, and language ties to these neighbors, the hilltribes have retained their traditional costumes, religion, art, and way of life. Opportunities to experience these distinctive ethnic enclaves and to enjoy the region’s scenic beauty make the rural north one of the country’s most popular destinations.

Hilltribe people have traditionally practiced slash-and-burn agriculture: burning forests to clear land, planting poppies as a cash crop, then setting up new bamboo and thatch villages whenever their farmland’s soil became depleted. This unsustainable model is slowly changing and the efforts of Thai humanitarian groups have gone a long way to that effect and visitors can visit these changes and, by practicing cultural awareness and encouraging only positive models of sustainable tourism, have a positive effect on this unique region.

Map of Northern Thailand

Adventurous self-drive trips, by car or motorbike, are a great way to get around and hilltribe tours and trekking are also very popular activities and bring visitors into the most intimate contact with the hospitable indigenous groups of the north. Many use Chiang Mai as a hub for forays into the surrounding hills. Visitors may also connect with hilltribe cultural traditions of the north by way of local cottage industry and the fine handicrafts sold in Chiang Mai’s sprawling markets: some of the best shopping in the country.

Thailand’s second city after Bangkok, Chiang Mai was the capital of the Lanna Kingdom from the 13th to 18th centuries, when the region was a distinct entity but a powerful ally of the central Sukhothai Kingdom. In and around the city there is a colorful legacy of old city walls, ornate temples and museums preserving the Lanna culture. Beginning with an exploration of this ancient Lanna capital, the following chapter provides details of the major destinations in the far north and the last chapter takes us east to Isan, Thailand’s most rugged, rural area.

Northern Thailand is comprised of 15 provinces, many of them sharing borders with Myanmar (Burma) to the north and west and Laos to the northeast. (Thailand’s eastern areas bordering Laos and Cambodia are covered in chapter 13, “Exploring Isan: Thailand’s Frontier”) This verdant, mountainous terrain, including Thailand’s largest mountain, Doi Inthanon, at 2,563m (8,408 ft.) supports nomadic farming and teak logging at high altitudes and systematic agriculture in the valleys. The hilltribes’ traditional poppy crops have largely been replaced with rice, tobacco, soybeans, corn, and sugarcane.

North and east of Chiang Mai, lowland farmers also cultivate seasonal fruits such as strawberries, longan, mandarin oranges, mango, and melon; the lush, tended fields and winding rivers make sightseeing, particularly in the spring, a visual treat. In addition to agriculture, lumber (especially teak), textiles and mining, handicrafts and tourism-related cottage industries contribute to the growing northern economy.

Though nothing compared to colossal Bangkok, the city of Chiang Mai is expanding, sprouting far-reaching suburbs and drawing Thai and expatriate retirees.

In the late 13th century, King Mengrai united several Tai tribes that had migrated from southern China and built the first capital of the Lanna Kingdom in Chiang Rai. Mengrai, whose brilliant rule was characterized by strategic alliances, saw a threat in the Mongol emperor Kublai Khan’s incursions into Myanmar (Burma) and quickly forged ties with the powerful Kingdom of Sukhothai in the south. The Lanna Thai king moved swiftly to consolidate his position when he vanquished the vestiges of the Mon Empire in Lamphun (Nakorn Hariphunchai), and in 1296 moved his new capital south to what is now Chiang Mai. There is a monument to King Mengrai, across from Chiang Mai’s Wat Phan Tao, where he is said to have been struck by lightning and killed in 1317.

For the next century, Chiang Mai prospered and the Lanna Kingdom grew, absorbing most of the present-day northern provinces. In alliance Chiang Mai and Sukhothai were able to repulse any significant attacks from Khmer and Mon neighbors. After the ascendant of Ayutthaya absorbed Sukhothai, Ayutthaya forces tried repeatedly to take Chiang Mai, but the kingdom did not yield. Instead, Chiang Mai strengthened itself, and from the late 14th century until its eventual fall to the Burmese in 1556, it enjoyed tremendous affluence and influence.

After 2 centuries of relentless warfare, the Burmese captured Chiang Mai in 1556, and for the next 2 centuries the Lanna Kingdom was a Burmese vassal—the Burmese cultural influence is still evident today. After Siam’s King Taksin recaptured Chiang Mai from the Burmese in 1775, the city was so weakened that Taksin moved its surviving citizens to nearby Lampang. For 2 decades Chiang Mai was literally a ghost town. Though the city was still nominally under the control of local princes, their power continued to decline, and in 1939, Chiang Mai was formally incorporated into the modern Thai nation.

The north is a veritable tapestry of divergent customs and cultures of the many tribes that migrated from China or Tibet to Burma, Laos, and Vietnam and ultimately settled in Thailand’s northern provinces such as Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai, Mae Hong Son, Phayao, and Nan. The six main tribes are the Karen, Akha (also known as the Kaw), Lahu (Mussur), Lisu (Lisaw), Hmong (Meo), and Mien (Yao), each with subgroups that are linked by history, lineage, language, costume, social organization, and religion. Hilltribes are divided into two linguistic categories, the Sino-Tibetan and Austro-Asiatic, though only descendants of the Mon-Khmer speak a dialect of the latter category. In addition, tribes are divided geographically into lowland, or valley, dwellers who grow cyclical crops, such as rice or corn, and high-altitude dwellers who have traditionally grown opium poppies. The so-called indigenous tribes, who have occupied the same areas for hundreds of years, are those that tend to inhabit the lower valleys in organized villages of split-log huts. The nomadic groups generally live above 1,000m (3,250 ft.) in easy-to-assemble bamboo and thatch housing, ready to resettle when nearby fields grow less fertile or when political strife overspills the borders of Myanmar (Burma) and Laos.

Nearly all tribal villages have a headman who performs most of the political and social functions, including welcoming guests. The nomadic, high-altitude villages are led by village elders or a shaman (head religious figure) who consults spirits. If the community is threatened by agricultural losses, disease, or by any bandits in the area, the whole village may disband and move to a more advantageous location. Villages also break up over internal disputes, and families will separate and take up new residences. Most often, the social unit is characterized as the extended family; this is especially true among the Hmong (Meo) and Mien (Yao), who practice polygamy.

Highland minorities believe in spirits, and it’s the role of the shaman, to read into every situation the workings of spiritual forces. Most villages practice rites that are meant to appease the spirits, with the shaman or headman chosen to determine the problem, prescribe the solution, and perform the ritual. Remarkably enough, neither the shamans nor headmen have higher status than the other villagers; they merely render a service. If a shaman or headman becomes too grandiose in his political aspirations, the villagers will often decide collectively to disband.

KAREN A quarter million Karen make up the largest tribal group in Thailand, accounting for more than half of all tribal people in the country. In nearby Myanmar (Burma), it’s estimated that there are more than four million people of Karen descent (and of Buddhist belief ), many of whom have settled along the Thai-Burmese border. For years, the military government has been battling Karen rebels seeking an autonomous homeland—and there are many Burmese Karen who have sought refuge in Thailand. In Thailand, the Karen are geographically dispersed, living as far north as Chiang Rai and as far south as Kanchanaburi.

Many Karen, through the influence of early missionaries, have converted to Christianity. Practicing an amalgamation of Christianity and ancient animism, Christian Karen can be easily identified by their method of greeting one another: an exaggerated, hearty handshake. The Karen are among the most assimilated among the Hilltribes of Thailand, making it difficult to identify them by any outward appearance; however, the most traditional tribespeople wear silver armbands and don a beaded sash and headband, and the single women wear all white.

HMONG (MEO) The Hmong are a nomadic tribe scattered throughout Southeast Asia and China. About 65,000 Hmong live in Thailand, with the greatest number residing in Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Nan, Phetchabun, and Phrae provinces; there are approximately four million Hmong living in China.

Within Thailand there are several subgroups; the Hmong Daew (White Hmong) and the Hmong Njua (Blue Hmong) are the main divisions, and the Hmong Gua Mba (Armband Hmong) is a subdivision of the Hmong Daew. In Thailand, the Hmong generally dwell in the highlands, where they cultivate opium poppies more extensively than any other tribal group; corn, rice, and soybeans are also grown as subsistence crops. The Hmong are also excellent animal breeders, and their ponies are especially prized.

As with other nomadic tribes, the Hmong maintain much of their wealth in silver jewelry. Neck rings are given to Hmong babies as a sign of their acceptance into the material world. During the December New Year festival, families wear their silver jewelry and ornaments in an impressive display of craftsmanship. The women are particularly distinctive with knotted, long dark hair woven with horse- or human-hair switches to create an enormous bun on the top of their heads. Though most men take only one wife, a wealthier one will take two.

Also like most of the other tribes, the Hmong are pantheistic and rely on shamans to perform spiritual rites, though their elite is staunchly Catholic. In a perceived spiritual crisis, shamans practice animal sacrifice and perform rituals, contacting the spirit world in a trancelike state. They place particular emphasis on the spirit of doors: doors for entering and exiting the human world, doors to houses, doors to let in good fortune and to block bad spirits, and doors to the afterlife. The Hmong also worship their ancestors, another echo from their Chinese past.

Like the Chinese, with whom they resided for so many centuries, Hmong are skilled entrepreneurs, and many are beginning to move down from the hills to pursue a less rigorous and more profitable life in other occupations. But as long as the trade in opium remains lucrative, most Hmong will remain in the highlands.

LAHU (MUSSUR) The Lahu people, of which about 40,000 abide in Thailand, are a fractured group with a great many subdivisions. The differences can even be seen from their clothing. The two main bands are the Lahu Na (Black Lahu) and the Lahu Shi (Yellow Lahu), with a much smaller number of Lahu Hpu (White Lahu), La Ba, and Abele. Most Lahu villages are situated above 1,000m (3,250 ft.) in the mountains around Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Mae Hong Son, Tak, and Kamphaeng Phet, where poppies, dry rice, corn, and other cash crops are grown.

Lahu Na, similar to the Tibetan language, is so well accepted that other tribal people and Yunnanese Chinese have adopted it as their common tongue. The Lahu are skilled musicians, and their bamboo and gourd flutes feature prominently in their compositions—flutes are often used by young men to woo the woman of their choice. (You can buy their instruments in the Night Market in Chiang Mai.)

If any tribe reflects the difficulties of maintaining a singular cultural identity in the tumult of migration, it’s the Lahu. Consider Lahu religion: Originally animist, they adopted the worship of a deity called G’ui sha (possibly Tibetan in origin), borrowed the practice of merit making from Buddhism (Indian or Chinese), and ultimately incorporated Christian (British/Burmese) theology into their belief system. G’ui sha is the supreme being who created the universe and rules over all spirits. Spirits inhabit animate and inanimate objects, making them capable of benevolence or evil, with the soul functioning as the spiritual force within people. In addition, they practice a kind of Lahu voodoo as well as following a messianic tradition. They welcome strangers more than any other tribe in Thailand.

MIEN (YAO) There are now estimated to be 33,000 Mien living in Thailand, concentrated in Chiang Rai, Phayao, Lampang, and Nan provinces. The Mien are still numerous in China as well as in Vietnam, Myanmar (Burma), and Laos. Like the Hmong, tens of thousands of Mien fled to northern Thailand from Vietnam and Laos after the end of the Vietnam War.

Even more than the Hmong, the Mien (the name is thought to come from the Chinese word for “barbarian”) are closely connected to their origins in southern China. They incorporated the Han spoken and written language into their own, and many Mien legends, history books, and religious tracts are recorded in Chinese. The Mien people also assimilated ancestor worship and a form of Taoism into their theology, in addition to celebrating their New Year on the same date (relying on the same calendar system) as the Chinese.

Mien farmers practice slash-and-burn agriculture but do not rely on opium poppies; instead they cultivate dry rice and corn. The women produce rather elaborate and elegant embroidery, which often adorns their clothing. Their silver work is intricate and highly prized even by other tribes, particularly the Hmong. Much of Mien religious art appears to be strongly influenced by Chinese design, particularly Taoist motifs, clearly distinguishing it from other tribes’ work.

LISU (LISAW) The Lisu are one of the smaller ethnic minorities in northern Thailand, representing less than 5% of all hilltribe people. They arrived in Chiang Rai Province in the 1920s, migrating from nearby Myanmar (Burma). The Lisu occupy high ground and grow opium poppies as well as other subsistence crops. Lisu people, like their Chinese cousins (many have intermarried), are reputed to be extremely competitive and hardworking. They also frequently intermarry with the Lahu. Even their clothing is brash, with brightly colored tunics embellished with hundreds of silver beads and trinkets.

The Lisu are achievers who live well-structured lives. Their rituals rely on complicated procedures that demand much from the participants. Everything from birth to courtship to marriage to death is ruled by an orthodox tradition, much borrowed from the Chinese. Possibly because of their structured, goal-oriented society, the Lisu have the highest suicide rate among Thailand’s tribal people.

AKHA (KAW) Of all the tradition-bound tribes, the Akha, accounting for only 3% of all minorities living in Thailand, have probably maintained the most profound connection with their past. At great events in one’s life, the full name (often more than 50 generations of titles) of an Akha is proclaimed, with each name symbolic of a lineage dating back more than 1,000 years. All aspects of life are governed by the Akha Way, an all-encompassing system of myth, ritual, plant cultivation, courtship and marriage, birth, death, dress, and healing.

The strength of the Akha Way may be the key to maintaining their identity, for the Akha are widely spread throughout southern China, Laos, Vietnam, and Myanmar (Burma). The first Akha migrated from Burma to Thailand in the beginning of the 20th century, originally settling in the highlands above the Mae Kok River in Chiang Rai Province. Now they are moving down to lower heights in search of more arable land. They are “shifting” cultivators, depending on subsistence crops, planted in rotation, and raising domestic animals for their livelihood.

The clothing of the Akha is among the most attractive of all the hilltribes. Simple black jackets with skillful embroidery are the everyday attire for both men and women. The Akha shoulder bags are adorned with silver coins, baubles, and found beads and are woven with exceptional skill.

THE CLIMATE Northern Thailand has three distinct seasons.

The hot season (Mar–May) is dry with temperatures up to 86°F (30°C). It is not too cool really, but certainly more pleasant than the southern parts of the country and many Thais vacation in this region to get away from scorching temperatures elsewhere.

The rainy season (June–Oct) is cooler, with the heaviest daily rainfall in September (usually heavy afternoon downpours). While trekking and outdoor activities are still possible, rainy conditions (and mud) should be taken into consideration when packing for your trip.

The cool season (Nov–Feb) is brisk, with daytime temperatures as low as 59°F (21°C) in Chiang Mai town, and 41°F (5°C) in the hills. Bring a sweater and some warm socks. November to May is the best time for trekking, with February, March, and April (when southern Thailand gets extremely hot) usually being the most crowded months. In

October and November, after the rainfalls, the forests are lush, rivers swell, and waterfalls are more splendid than usual.

FESTIVALS Northern Thailand celebrates many unique festivals, as well as many nationwide festivals in an unusual way. Check the calendar below so that you can plan your trip to coincide with one of them. Many Thais also travel to participate in these festivals and advanced booking in hotels is a must. Of particular note is the colorful Loi Krathong Festival (Nov) which sets the skies ablaze with fireworks (particularly in Chiang Mai) and the rivers and streams alight with the candles of Krathong, small bamboo floats. Thai New Year, Songran (Feb 14), is as raucous here as in any part of Thailand. See “When to Go,” in chapter 2, “Planning Your Trip to Thailand” for other national events.

Many of these annual events are based on the lunar calendar. Contact the Tourism Authority of Thailand TAT (Tel. 0 2694-1222; www.tourismthailand.org) in Bangkok for exact dates.

January

Winter Fair, Chiang Mai. Special theatrical events, a Beauty Queen pageant, and art exhibits are held at the Municipal Stadium.

Umbrella Festival, Bo Sang. Held in a village of umbrella craftspeople and painters about 15km (9 miles) east of Chiang Mai, the Umbrella Festival features handicraft competitions, an elephant show, and a local parade.

February

Flower Festival, Chiang Mai. Celebrates the city’s undisputed position

as the “Flower of the North,” with concerts, flower displays and competitions, a food fair, and a beauty contest. The pace of the long parade of the first weekend—the focal point of the festival—is decidedly Asian, not nearly as rushed as something like Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade, but the streets are just as jammed.

The Buak Hat park is the location for most of the other events in the festival, including an exquisite orchid competition/display, flower-arranging demonstrations, and a pageant to elect a Miss Chiang Mai Flower Festival.

King Mengrai Festival, Chiang Rai. Known for its special hill-tribe cultural displays and a fine handicrafts market (early Feb).

Sakura Blooms Flower Fair, Doi Mae Salong. Celebrates the sakura of Japanese cherry trees, imported to this northwestern hill village by former members of China’s nationalist Kuomintang party (early Feb).

March

Poy Sang Long. A traditional Shan ceremony honoring Buddhist novices, widely celebrated in the northwestern village of Mae Hong Son (late Mar or early Apr).

April

Songkran (Water) Festival. Celebrated over the Lanna Thai New Year, most of the ceremonies take place at the wats. Presents and merit-making acts are offered, and water is splashed over Buddhas, monks, elders, and tourists to celebrate the beginning of the harvest and to ensure good fortune. Those who don’t want a good soaking should avoid the streets. The festival is celebrated in all northern provinces, and throughout the country, but Chiang Mai’s celebration is notorious for being the longest (up to 10 days) and the rowdiest. The first day is April 13.

Before the 1920s, when the railway’s Northern Line to Chiang Mai was completed, one traveled either by longboat or elephant; the trip took more than 2 weeks. It’s good to remember when the train-ride gets boring or the flight is crowded. There are lots of easy, comfortable options and be sure to check chapter 11, “Chiang Mai,” and chapter 12, “Touring the Northern Hills,” for more specific schedule and price information.

BY PLANE Thai Airways (Tel.  0 2525-2084, for domestic reservations in Bangkok) flies from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, Lampang, Chiang Rai, Mae Hong Son, Nan, and Phrae. There are also flights between many of these destinations and between them and Phitsanulok in central Thailand. Bangkok Airways (Tel. 0 2229-3434 in Bangkok) connects Bangkok and Chiang Mai with a stop in Sukhothai in the central plains.

BY TRAIN Express and rapid trains leave Bangkok for Chiang Mai several times a day. Sleeper cars are available on certain trains and are highly recommended for the 13-hour overnight trip (reserve as early as possible).

May

Visakha Bucha. Honors the birth, enlightenment, and death of the Lord Buddha on the full moon of this month. Celebrated nationwide, it’s a particularly dramatic event in Chiang Mai, where residents walk up Doi Suthep in homage.

Harvest Festival, Kho Loi Park, Chiang Rai. This festival honors the harvest of litchis. There is a parade, litchi competition and display, a beauty contest to find Miss Chiang Rai Litchi Nut, and lots of food (mid-May).

Mango Fair, Chiang Mai. A fair honoring mangoes, the local favorite crop (second weekend).

August

Lamyai or Longan Fair, Lamphun.

Celebrates the town’s favorite fruit and one of Thailand’s largest foreign-exchange earners. Yes, there is a Miss Longan competition, too (first or second weekend).

October

Lanna Boat Races. Nan Province sponsors 2 days of boat racing, with wildly decorated, long, low-slung craft zipping down the Nan River. The Lanna Boat Races are run 7 days after the Rains’ Retreat, marking the beginning of the dry season.

November

Loi Krathong. Occurs around the country over 2 nights of the full moon in the 12th lunar month. Crowds float small banana-leaf boats bearing candles, incense, a flower, and a coin as an offering and to carry away the previous year’s sins and bad luck. In Chiang Mai, brightly colored lanterns are strung everywhere; enormous, flaming hot-air balloons are released in the night sky; and there’s a parade of women in traditional costumes, as well as a Miss Noppamas Beauty Pageant. The offering boats or krathongs are floated on the Ping River. In Sukhothai, there’s a spectacular sound-and-light show.

December

Day of Roses, Chiang Mai. Exhibitions and cultural performances are held in Buak Hat Park (first weekend).

BY BUS There are dozens of daily and nightly air-conditioned VIP buses to Chiang Mai and other northern cities, as well as cheaper, less comfortable, normal service buses from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal. See each city’s section for more information in the chapters to follow.

BY PUBLIC BUS There’s frequent, inexpensive bus service between Chiang Mai and other northern cities. You’ll also find songtao, pickup trucks fitted with long bench seats (also known locally as seelor or four wheels), along the streets of Chiang Mai as well as all the major roads throughout the north, with no fixed schedule, stopping points or price.

BY CAR Renting your own car not only allows you freedom, but gives you the chance to see the beautiful countryside at your own pace, parking in rural villages or at friendly road-side stalls or bouncing down scenic tracks as you please.

Main roads are well-paved and safe, with frequent petrol stations and restaurants in towns and there are many side roads varying from packed gravel tarmac to dirt roads with deep mud-ruts. Both Budget Car Rental and Avis have branches in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai and rent out a selection of vehicles, from jeeps to sedans and, while these larger rental companies have better insurance policies, they are expensive. Patronizing local companies in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai will save you money, and some have acceptable insurance and will meet you at the airport. If you’ll be driving out to mountain destinations, select the most well-maintained car on the lot (older cars are only for in-town driving). Refer to the “Getting Around” section in chapters 11 and 12 for specific office locations and rates.

BY MOTORCYCLE Motorcycle touring in northern Thailand has become popular, particularly with those who like freedom and experiencing the great outdoors up close. Most use Chiang Mai as a hub for exploring different routes throughout the region. Inexperienced riders should proceed cautiously (maybe start with a few day trips) and all should arm themselves with up-to-date information about road conditions and weather. Keep your ear to the ground in traveler haunts (guesthouses, bars, and coffee shops) to meet up with experienced riders or get info about more rural road info.

Safety notes: Stay left! It’s important to remember that Thailand follows left-side driving rules, and, in fact, unaccustomed foreign visitors cause many accidents.

Be alert and defensive on the road. Drivers are often quite reckless. Watch out for pedestrians, stray dogs, chickens, and water buffalo, which can be especially unpredictable even on quiet stretches of road. On many major highways the shoulder has been widened for motorcycle use. On secondary roads, always move to the shoulder when vehicles approach from behind. Be careful near the Burmese border (see “Warning to Wayward Explorers” sidebar, above).

It will help if you are familiar with motorcycle maintenance and basic repair so you can inspect your motorcycle before your trip and make quick fixes on the road. Off-road bikes, such as the 250cc Honda, are commonly available and a good choice because of their added power, good suspension, and large fuel tanks; they rent for about 550B ($13) a day (smaller 100cc numbers start at 200B/$4.90 but are only for in-town and village day trips). Before you make a deal with a rental shop, read the contract. Make sure it includes insurance (only liability coverage for the other party is sold, not for damage to your bike), and make sure that if the motorcycle breaks down due to wear, it’s the rental company’s responsibility to transport it back home.

Armed with information and some measure of preparedness or experience, the northern roads may have you throwing your wristwatch off a bridge and singing “Born to Be Wild” a la Peter Fonda and Dennis Hopper. You’ll find plenty of gas stations, small noodle shops (for “groovy dinners”), and lodging along main highways. Travel on the back roads and along jungle trails (for off-road riders) opens up worlds unseen to travelers who restrict themselves to buses, or enclose themselves inside a rented motor vehicle. See chapter 12 for more specific itineraries.

Tourism in the north really took off in the early ’80s, when backpackers and other intrepid travelers started coming in droves. The area’s isolation and rich local culture made a stay in a hilltribe village like a living entry in an anthropologist’s journal.

The face of life has changed in the far north, a partial result of the tourist influx but mainly the growing industrialization and economies of all of Thailand. Northern indigenous peoples have been exposed to the outside world and are being asked by Thai officials to stop slash-and-burn agricultural techniques and participate in the Thai economy by growing crops other than opium. Within the bounds of these influences, indigenous peoples struggle to maintain their cultural identities, livelihoods, and centuries-old ways of life. Still, many travelers are drawn to the hilltribe villages in search of the “authentic” travel experience—to touch a “primitive” culture, unspoiled by modern man, to witness life as it has been in past centuries. Every tour and trekking operator in the region knows about these ideals, and is quick to exploit them. Companies advertise their treks as “nontourist,” “authentic,” or “alternative” in an effort to set them apart from tacky tourist operations or staged cultural experiences. Do not be misled: There are no villages here that are untouched by foreign curiosity.

This shouldn’t discourage anyone from joining a trek or tour, just be aware and avoid any bogus claims. It is also advisable to leave our preconceptions of “primitive” people to 19th century anthropological journals but rather come to learn how these cultures on the margin of society grapple with complex economic and social pressures to maintain their unique identities. Awareness of our impact as tourists is also important: practice cultural sensitivity. With this as a mission, visitors can have an experience that is quite authentic but has little to do with our preconceptions and expectations.

For those hopping “off the track” up north by car or motorcycle (or even trekking), it is important to note that Thailand’s national border with neighboring Myanmar (Burma) isn’t marked with signs along many of the longer rural stretches. Even the most innocent wanderings across the border can land you in custody of Shan State rebels, who don’t care if you have a visa, and don’t accept American Express. Travelers have been held in custody for weeks, interrogated, and harassed. Stay with an experienced guide, or, if by yourself, keep a good safe distance from border territories to allow for miscalculations.

The problem isn’t finding a trek—there are many companies, from small storefronts to hotel concierges, that offer treks out of Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Mae Hong Son, and Pai—it’s finding the right mix of experienced and knowledgeable guides, an intelligent itinerary, a compatible group, and appropriate timing, all at an acceptable price. There are specific recommendations of reputable outfitters in each section, but be sure to ask for specifics before departure because once out on the trail there will no longer be any room for debate. Consider the criterion below for any tour.

THE GUIDE If there’s one single element of a trek that will make or break the experience, it’s the guide. Most guides come from the lowlying areas in the south of Chiang Mai or from Isan. Few are native to these jungles, although some have quite a few years of experience and most can speak the relevant phrases of a few hilltribe languages (though their command of English is perhaps most important). All guides are required to attend a special 1-month course at Chiang Mai University and must be licensed by the Tourism Authority. Hilltribe guides are familiar with the best trails, are well informed about the area and people, and are usually pretty interesting characters. Try to meet your prospective guide and ask lots of questions.

THE ITINERARY Several well-known Chiang Mai agencies offer regularly scheduled routes. Any company can arrange custom tours for a higher fee. Often, travelers interested in the same remote destination will organize remote itineraries at cheaper, group rates.

For any trek or tour, be sure to get specifics about daily schedules. Most treks involve transport to and from the start and end-point of the trek. How long does it take and what are the conditions? It’s usually some 3 to 6 hours of unhurried walking each day. Gauge your fitness level and adjust to that or adjust the itinerary. When is lunch/dinner each day? What is lunch/dinner? What are the sleeping arrangements, etc.

Nearly all trekking itineraries list the various hilltribe villages visited; try to read as much as you can and decide for yourself which you’d most like to see.

THE GROUP I’ve made lifelong friends on trekking trips and, conversely, spent uncomfortably long days and nights in the company of folks with whom I wouldn’t want to share a cab-ride much less days in the jungle. “Life is like a box of chocolates” of course, but if you’re from the usual 3 days and 2 nights up to 2-week special itineraries. Every trek starts with a bumpy road journey before groups head for the hills on-foot accompanied by a local guide. Some tours have bamboo rafting and elephant trekking thrown in for variety.

The guides keep a controlled pace, and even those who aren’t particularly fit won’t have a problem keeping up. Most guides have some knowledge of a few tribal languages and will serve as your go-between. They are familiar with the villages they’ll take you to, will rehearse you in etiquette and protocol, and will negotiate the terms of your “invitation” with the local village leaders. Your guides will also feed you “jungle food,” which is usually simple meals of rice and fish. If you’re a vegetarian, it’s a good idea to discuss this with your guide well in advance. Sometimes villagers will entertain guests with music and dance. All guests are invited to sleep in a separate area of the headman’s house, which is usually the largest in the compound but accommodation is very basic (straw mats and blankets).

Some travelers reckon they can buy a trail map and head out for a village experience sans guide, but this is discouraged. If the dangers of walking alone in vast tracts of jungle aren’t enough, staying in villages means navigating customs and hospitality, best done with a guide who has a good rapport and can communicate.

Despite the best efforts of local authorities, it is impossible to police the jungle and there are still some occurrences of banditry on village trails. Don’t bring any valuables with you on your trek. You can make arrangements with your hotel or guesthouse in town, even the trekking company you go with, to stow these things in the hotel safe while you’re away.

Travel in this region, so near the famed Golden Triangle and criss-crossed with smuggler trails from nearby Burma, is notorious for the availability of drugs, especially opium. Even with recent government crackdowns and programs to move hilltribe economies to reliance on more sustainable farming of legal food items instead of poppies, you will still more than likely be offered opium or even invited to the village opium den. That, in fact, was part of the romantic allure of Thai trekking in its earliest inception. If the dangers of smoking opium in a rural village aren’t obvious, consider the financial and cultural impact (supporting local drug economies and encouraging poor models of cultural exchange). Be warned that narcotics usage is illegal, and if you do happen to get caught the penalties are harsh. The current Thai government is cracking down on drug use and the drug trade and a zero tolerance policy means that trekking guides, many of whom are addicted to opium, are tested and tour operators run the risk of being shut down if found promoting drug use on their treks.

There are two kinds of hilltribe operators in northern Thailand: tribal village tours and jungle treks.

Tribal village tours take large and small groups to visit villages that are close to major cities and towns. If you join one of these groups, you’ll travel by van or coach to up to three villages, each inhabited by a different tribe, and you’ll spend about an hour in each one. These villages have had decades of exposure to foreigners, and, because roads connect them to Chiang Mai, have many modern conveniences. Some overnight trips will put you up in small hotels or hostels that have been built especially for foreigners. You’ll find all sorts of crafts for sale from roadside vendors, elephant trekking, and staged cultural performances that include costume parades with music and dance. These short trips are great for those who would like a closer view of these cultures, but have neither the time nor the physical endurance for a 3-day trek through the jungle.

Jungle Treks are more rugged trips with smaller groups (about 4–10 people) trudging-off to get up-close and personal with tribal people. Treks last anywhere planning a long, arduous trip, try to meet your fellow travelers before committing; you might find that their stamina, assumptions, interests, and/or personalities are not compatible with yours. Look for an agency that limits the number of people to about 10 per trek. Having at least 4 in the group minimizes personality clashes and adds conviviality.

THE SEASON See “When to Go,” earlier in this chapter.

WHAT TO BRING Most trekkers come to Thailand on vacation, totally unprepared for a serious trek which is just fine. Most routes follow well-traveled paths, up and down rolling, cultivated hillsides, and require no special equipment. Good sneakers or walking shoes are usually adequate, though rainy season trekkers will fare better in waterproof, nonskid hiking boots. A wool sweater for evenings and some outerwear to sleep in will come in handy (many trekking companies only provide blankets.) I suggest long pants rather than shorts because of dense underbrush and twilight mosquito assaults. A flashlight, supply of tissues or toilet paper, mosquito repellent, and a basic first-aid kit with blister remedies is also recommended.

Some people like to bring gifts for the villagers they encounter. Kids, as in many parts of the world, will ask for “bon-bon” or “pen” but, however well-meaning, gifts of coloring books, crayons, pencils, and paper for use in school are often sold. A cash gift to the local school is your best bet for constructive philanthropy. Ask your guide for other recommendations because he may know the specific needs of the villagers in the places you’ll be visiting.

PRICE Even the most expensive treks cost less than 1 night at a hotel and three restaurant meals. Some negotiation may be in order, especially if you are traveling with a larger group of people; however, these days, most of the treks come at fixed prices. Expect to pay between 500B to 2000B ($12–$49) per person per night depending on the itinerary.

Typically, food, transport and equipment (backpack, water bottle, etc.) are included in the fee. Important: be sure to get specifics about what is included. Once on the trail there are no negotiations and many a trekker comes down from the hills tired, angry, and feeling “taken” because of some often minor misunderstanding. “You get what you pay for” of course, but be sure that you know what you get for what you are paying.