Touring the Northern Hills

Touring the Northern Hills

Heading north of Chiang Mai and its satellite cities, travelers enter a mountainous region promising lots of adventure: the Far North. Rugged landscape, proximity to Myanmar (Burma) and Laos, and the diverse ethnic hilltribe groups living here distinguish northern Thailand from the rest of the country. The mighty Mekong River flows southeast from the Golden Triangle, the opium-producing region straddling Burma and Laos, and the river traces a path along dense jungles and teak forests. This is the land of the elephants, of the ancient Lanna culture, of hilltribes, bordertowns and adventure around every turn.

Connected by highways that wind through forested mountains, descend into picturesque valleys, and pass through quaint farming villages, northern points are best explored overland, in a rented vehicle. There are lookout viewpoints along the way, and plenty of places to stop and eat, refuel, relax, and stay. Travelers choose from a number of routes: from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai, north from Chiang Rai to the Burma/Laos/Thai border at the Golden Triangle or the rugged area northwest of Chiang Mai known as the Mae Hong Son Loop. Any trip in the region means mountain scenery and the opportunity to get to visit with unique ethnic groups and trekking, by foot, Jeep, elephant back, or boat, through the forested hilltribe homelands is very popular.

Seasoned travelers, given the option, never backtrack and the “Loop” through the rugged hills north and west of Chiang Mai is gaining popularity for that very reason. Connecting the popular tourist destinations of Pai and Mae Hong Son, the circuit continues to out-of-the way Mae Sariang before returning to Chiang Mai. For all but the adventurous, going by tour or a hired car with driver is recommended, but a self-drive means freedom to take side trips and explore at ones own pace. Give yourself at least 4 days to do it, preferably more, staying one night at least in each town. The road, especially on the northernmost points, is serpentine and precipitous and calls for good driving skills; traffic is not too heavy usually, but drivers must be on alert for everything from water buffalo to slow-moving, overloaded, smoke-belching trucks and buses.

The most useful resource for a self-guided tour by car or motorbike is a map entitled Mae Hong Son, The Loop (published by the adventurous souls at The Golden Triangle Rider and priced at 175B/$4.25; www.GT-Rider.com). The GT-Rider map gives exacting details of even the smallest dirt track as well as useful site-maps of each town. You can pick it up in any bookstore in Thailand. The TAT office in Chiang Mai or Mae Hong Son are also good resources for maps and advice on side-trips.

By Car This is certainly the best option for doing the circuit or even just touring the hills around Pai and Mae Hong Son. See the “Getting Around” section of the Chiang Mai chapter for information on rental cars. Travel agents and hotels can arrange a car with driver for about 1,500B ($37) per day.

By Motorcycle An increasingly popular option, motorcycle travel around the Mae Hong Son Loop means less traffic than your average Thai byway, but the same warnings apply. Wear a helmet, be defensive and remember that there’s not much between you and the road. This is recommended for the experienced rider.

A variety of good rental bikes are available in Chiang Mai. See the “Getting Around” section in chapter 11, “Chiang Mai,” for more info.

By Minivan Travel agents in Chiang Mai can arrange group tours.

By Bus Regular buses ply the winding tracks between all towns on the loop (Chiang Mai, Pai, Mae Hong Son and Mae Sariang) but bus travelers are limited in their exploration of the countryside.

831km (516 miles) NW of Bangkok; 135km (84 miles) NW of Chiang Mai Halfway between Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son, the mountain road makes a winding descent into a large green valley carpeted with rice paddies and fruit groves. Mountains rise on all sides, and on warm afternoons, butterflies flit along the streets. Here you’ll find a village called Pai, named after the river that runs through the valley. Pai is a speck of a place with main roads (all four of them) littered with homegrown guesthouses, laid-back restaurants and bars, local trekking companies and small souvenir shops.

The Pai River itself is one of the main attractions here. Outfitters organize rafting adventures on some pretty raucous rapids from July to January. Trekking is also popular, with 2- and 3-day treks to Karen, Lahu, and Lisu villages. The adventurous can find a local map for self-guided hikes to nearby waterfalls and caves, but quite a few wayfarers just lounge in town living simply and enjoying the nightlife. Many local business owners are foreigners or bohemian Thais who come here for a better life than in busy Bangkok or Chiang Mai. The town is a bit too laid back for some, but many are drawn to the languid rhythms of this peaceful spot. In Pai, every day is a lazy Sunday.

By Bus Five buses a day leave for Pai from Chiang Mai (trip time: 4 hr.; 60B/$1.50). Five buses daily connect Pai and Mae Hong Son (trip time: 4 hr.;60B/$1.50). The Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Terminal is on Kaew Narawat Road, northeast of the old city across the Ping River (Tel. 0 5324-2664). The bus terminal in Mae Hong Son is on Khunlumprapas Road (the main street) 2 blocks north of the main intersection. All buses drop off and pick up at this “bus terminal” (more like a vacant lot).

By Minivan Frequent minivans (called “Rot Too”) make connections between Chiang Mai, Pai and Mae Hong Son for 150B ($3.65) for each leg. Contact any storefront travel agent for details.

By Car The scenic route is long, with steep, winding roads that make for some very pretty rural scenery: Take Rte. 107 north from Chiang Mai, then Rte. 1095 northwest to Pai.

You won’t find a tourist information booth in Pai, but restaurateurs, bungalow owners, and fellow travelers aplenty are usually happy to share their knowledge and experience. Most guesthouses and restaurants offer photocopy maps of town and the surrounding areas. Tiny Pai consists of four streets. Route 1095, or the Pai-Mae Hong Son Highway (colloquially known as Khetkelang Rd.), runs parallel to Rangsiyanon Road, which is the main commercial street. Chaisongkram and Raddamrang roads run perpendicular and many guesthouses and restaurants are in or around this central grid (with many more guesthouses in the surrounding countryside). You can walk the town in 5 minutes. Mountain bikes and motorcycles are available at guesthouses or shops along the main streets for about 50B ($1.10) and 200B ($4.55) respectively.

There is one bank in Pai, on Rangsiyanon Road just next to Charlie House, with an ATM and money changing services on weekdays. The Pai Hospital (a tiny clinic) is 2 blocks west of the bus station. The Town Police is on Rangsiyanon Road (Tel. 0 5369-9217-9). The post office is about 1km (2⁄3 mile) south of the police station. There are a number of Internet cafes along central Chaisongkram Road and most can do Internet calls or international direct dial.

There’s little in the way of tour sites in Pai (most people come to put their feet up) but it’s a great place to stroll along country lanes or even rent a motorbike and buzz around the countryside. There are a few small temples: Wat Klang is next to the bus station and has several small pagodas surrounding a central stupa and Wat Hodana and Wat Nam Hu are west of Route 1095: Nam Hu is known for its Chiang Saen–era Buddha, whose hollow head is filled with holy water.

There’s a waterfall about 7km (41⁄3 miles) west of town past the two wats, and a hot spring about 7km (41⁄3 miles) to the east, past the Pai High School.

The Pai River is perhaps the most exciting attraction. Overnight rafting trips take you through some exciting rapids as well as more scenic lazy spots, through canyons walled with prehistoric fossilized lime and shell as well as a wildlife sanctuary. A pioneer of the rafting business here, long-time resident

Guy Gorias runs Thai Adventure Rafting (3 moo 3, Chaisongkhram Rd. in the town center; Tel. 0 5369-9900). There are regular trips from July to January. Two-day adventures begin and end in the town of Pai at a cost of 2,000B ($49) per person.

There are many imitators in town, but Thai Adventure is the best outfit by far, with high safety standards and quality equipment. They can also make the necessary arrangements for pick-up and drop-off in Mae Hong Son.

Small trekking companies, operated by locals, are at every guesthouse and all along the main streets. It is hard to choose from the many, but Duang Trekking (at Duang Guesthouse across from the bus terminal; Tel. 0 5369-9101) has a good reputation. Group treks go for 3 days and 2 nights to Lisu, Karen, Tai Yai and Lahu villages in the hills around Pai for 1,500B ($36) per person (some trips include bamboo rafting). Duang Trekking, like its many competitors, is quite flexible and can tailor any trek or provide private guides according to need.

Tiny Pai boasts quite a few traditional massage places. The best option is Mr. Jan’s Herbal Sauna and Massage, where you’ll get a Burmese-style massage which is much kinder and gentler than the rigorous Thai style. Ask around for directions to Mr. Jan’s. It’s on a narrow soi off Chaisongkram Road.

You won’t find a big hotel in Pai yet (a relief for many), but there are loads of guesthouses. Starting at 80B ($2) you have your choice of some pretty rough little dives, but there are a few comfortable options for people on any budget.

Belle Villa This collection of new, luxury bungalows along a quiet, rural stretch of the Pai river has no rival anywhere along the Mae Hong Son Loop. Though light on hotel amenities, they offer large, clean rooms with contemporary conveniences like digital safes and cable TV complimented by the rustic charm of thatched roof and bamboo catay. The bathrooms are resplendent affairs in carefully molded concrete that is dyed a bright yellow and burnished to a sheen. Spacious shower areas are surrounded by small rock gardens and have windows with views to the river. The restaurant is a cozy open-air affair overlooking a small pool and the riverside beyond. You’ll be swatting ’skeeters like anywhere in Pai, but the peace, quiet, scenery and friendly service of this burgeoning little gem are unique.

113 Moo 6, Tumol Viengtai, Pai Mae Hong Son, 58130 (down a small soi off the Mae Hong Son road 2km/11⁄4 miles north of Pai). www.bellevillaresort.com.Tel. 0 5369-8226-7. Fax 05369-8228. 2,943B ($72) double/low season; 4,708B ($115) double/high season. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; outdoor pool; tour desk; shuttle service; laundry. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hairdryer, safe.

Charlie’s House The best of the backpacker haunts in town, this small guesthouse is set in a nicely planted garden along the main street. Three wooden buildings feature very simple twin-bed rooms and clean communal toilets. All rooms have fans and screened windows and are well maintained. This place is a very good value (did someone say “Cheap Charlie’s”?) but caters to a more cleancut crowd than most.

9 Rungsiyanon Rd., Pai 58130, Mae Hong Son. Tel. 0 5369-9039. 19 units. 200B–250B ($4.90–$6) double. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; tour desk; laundry service. In room: No phone.

Rim Pai Cottages Simple “cottages” indeed, this unassuming cluster of bungalows occupies some of the best real-estate in the center of Pai-town proper.

You’ll find little in the way of luxury, but lots of character in rooms that range from tiny, airless sheds to spacious rustic pavilions on stilts with small balconies and riverside views. Set apart from the rougher budget accommodations by virtue of it’s airy campus and good location (in town and on the river), Rim Pai has only a few choice amenities: a welcoming restaurant pavilion and a helpful tour desk.

99 Moo 3,Viangtai, Pai, Mae Hong Son 58130 (right in town at riverside). Tel. 0 5369-9133. Fax 0 5369-9234. 37 units. 300B–1,200B ($7.30–$29). MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; tour desk; car and motorbike rentals; massage; laundry. In room: Fan, no phone.

Thapai Spa Camping Don’t let the name fool you—this is a small resort, not a campground. Located on the banks of the river just a 10-minute drive outside the town, the resort was built to take advantage of the small hot springs nearby.

The highlight of this place—the public mineral baths—let you enjoy a healthy mineral soak. Boiling water is piped-in and mixed with cool water in various pools (in the actual springs you can boil an egg). Bathing areas with adjoining showers are scattered about the garden. Rooms vary: some are motel style and plain, others feature fine rock masonry and have large, open-air bathrooms with mineral water showers. It’s a popular getaway for large Thai groups and families; a raucous, communal atmosphere pervades. Located far from town and surrounded by rice paddies and mountains, it’s a good starting point for a good long walk in the late afternoon.

Chiang Mai reservation office: 58/1 Patanachangpuak Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai (located 6km/33⁄4 miles from Pai on the way towards Chiang Mai. Look for the sign at the turnoff along Rte. 1095).Tel. 0 5321-8583. Fax 05321-9610. 20 units. 600B–1,200B ($15–$29) double. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; mineral water pool and spa; herbal sauna; bike rental; tour desk; massage; laundry service. In room: A/C, no phone.

Pai plays host to a whole range of street-side dining, but little in the way of great eats. Hut Ing Pai, an open-air cafe on the north end of town, is a locus of traveler activity and serves good breakfasts and affordable budget Thai and Western dishes (on the corner of Khetkelang and Chaisongram on the northern edge of town; Tel. 0 5369-8103). The most popular spot in town is Beebop, a bar, restaurant and late-night hangout on the far southern end of town (a 15–min. walk down Khet Klang); there’s an excellent house band, and a young party crowd keeps the place hopping late into the night. Near Beebob is Baan Benjarong serving good Thai (179 Moo 8; Tel. 0 5369-8010). If he’s in that day, stop by friendly Amido’s Pizza Corner (just a short walk up the street from Hut Ing Pai; no phone). The best pizza in the far north and served in quiet little salas by Amido himself, tiny Pai’s resident Italian chef.

Either as a day-trip from Pai or as a stop on the way to Mae Hong Son, the best little detour going is the Lod or Spirit Cave off Route 1095 (about 30km/181⁄2 miles NW of Pai on Rte. 1095, then about 8km/5miles north of the highway). This large, awe-inspiring cave is filled with colorful stalagmites and stalactites and small caverns will keep you exploring for hours. The cavern was discovered in the 1960s to be filled with antique pottery dating from the Ban Chiang culture.

There are three caves. The first chamber is a dynamic grotto and the second contains a prehistoric cave painting of a deer (which unfortunately has been largely blurred from curious fingers). The third cavern contains prehistoric coffins shaped like canoes. A guide to all three caves costs 100B ($2.45), lantern rental included. Be sure to take the canoe ride to the third cave (the ferryman will hit you for an extra 200B/$4.90 depending on his mood) where, especially in the late afternoon and evening, you can see clouds of bats and swallows vying for space in the high craggy ceiling of the most dynamic cave (and the boat ride is fun, too). Pay another tithe to get back by boat or you can follow the clear jungle path a few clicks back to the parking lot. Bring your own flashlight for self-exploration as well.

As the road curves south heading into Mae Hong Son, Tham Pla Park (17km/101⁄2 miles north of Mae Hong Son on Rte. 1095) is a small landscaped park leading up to the entrance of Tham Pla, or fish cave. It’s a small grotto crowded with carp (legend says there are 10,000 of them) that mysteriously prefer the cave to the nearby streams. You can buy fish food in the parking lot (10B/25¢ per packet) but the fish don’t eat it. Have a look and it’s meant to be good luck (also a good leg stretch after the long drive). The grotto, once unsuccessfully explored by Thai Navy divers, is said to be several meters deep and to extend for miles.

Ten kilometers (6 miles) away in the Tham Pla Park interior is the huge Pha Sua Waterfall, which tumbles over limestone cliffs in seven cataracts. The water is at its most powerful after the rainy season, in August and September. The Meo hilltribe village of Mae Sou Yaa is beyond the park on a road suitable for Jeeps, just a few kilometers from the Burmese border.

924km (574 miles) NW of Bangkok; 355km (220 miles) NW of Chiang Mai via Pai; 274km (170 miles) NW of Chiang Mai via Mae Sariang Not far from the Burmese border, Mae Hong Son, the provincial capital of Mae Hong Son province, is the urban center of this large patch of scenic woodlands, waterways, and unique hilltribe villages. The towns surrounding hills, famed for their eerie morning mist, burst into color each October and November when tung buatong (wild sunflowers) come into bloom. The hot season (Mar–Apr) has temperatures as high as 104°F (40°C), and the rainy season is longer (May–Oct), with several brief showers daily, but if you’re coming up from the plains, you will find some respite from the heat.

The mountains around Mae Hong Son are scarred by slash-and-burn agriculture and evidence of logged teak forests from departed hilltribe settlements. Until only recently a little-visited backwater, change came in the mid-1980s, when Thailand’s rapid industrialization began to incorporate hilltribe peoples into the modern economy. Roads, airfields, and public works projects opened up the scenic province and poppy fields gave way to terraced rice paddies and garlic crops. Simultaneously, the surge in tourism brought foreigners trekking into villages where automobiles were still unknown.

TAT efforts to promote tourism in this region, combined with the completion of a couple of large hotels in the early 1990s, augured even greater change for the rapidly expanding provincial capital. Although the busy town of Mae Hong Son continues to grow and develop into an urban center, its picturesque valley setting and lovely Burmese-style wats are worth a visit.

By Plane Three daily Thai Airways flights connect Mae Hong Son to major routes via Chiang Mai (flight time: 45 min.). During the July/August and November/December peak seasons, book in advance as flights fill up early and in low season check to see if the flights are actually running (flights also cancel often due to fog). Thai Airways in Chiang Mai is at 240 Prapokklao Rd. (Tel. 0 5320-3299,0 5327-7640-41, 0 5327-7515 for domestic reservations in Chiang Mai), and in Mae Hong Son at 71 Singhanathbamrung Rd. (Tel. 0 5361-2220, 0 5361-1299, 0 5361-1198). The Mae Hong Son Airport is in the northeast section of town.

By Bus Seven non-air-conditioned buses connect with Pai (trip time: 4 hr.; 60B/$1.50) or beyond to the Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Terminal (trip time: 4 hr.; 60B/$1.50; Tel. 0 5327-8265, 0 5327-8570). Bus service to Mae Sariang to the south leaves in morning (trip time: 8 hr.; 239B/$5.40). The bus terminal in Mae Hong Son is on Khunlumprapas Road (the main street) 2 blocks north of the main intersection and a short walk from most hotels at town center.

By Car The 6-hour journey to Mae Hong Son from Chiang Mai is a pleasant mountain drive with spectacular views and some fun attractions (see “Between Pai & Mae Hong Son” above). The road is winding but paved and safe, with places to stop for gas, food and toilets as well as scenic pull-offs. Take Route 107 north from Chiang Mai to Route 1095 northwest through Pai. For car rental info, see chapter 11, “Chiang Mai.”

There is no TAT, but the Tourist Police (Tel. 0 5361-1812, 0 5361-1952), 1 Ratchathampitak Rd., 3 blocks east of the traffic light on the left, offers 24-hour assistance.

Mae Hong Son is small and easy to navigate. Khunlumprapas Rd., part of the Pai-Mae Sariang highway (Rte. 108), is the town’s main street and home to travel agents, most hotels listed below, and restaurants. Nong Chongkam Lake is just east of the main street and Wat Phra That Doi Kung Mu, overlooks town from the west.

You can walk to most places in town but there are a few tuk-tuks parked outside the market for longer trips. At some guesthouses you’ll find  bicycle rental for 50B ($1.20) or 100cc motorbikes for rent at 200B($4.90) per day.

There are major banks along Khunlumprapas Road and Singhanat Bamrung Road with ATMs and currency exchanges. In addition, several banks open for each flight arrival at the airport. The Sri Sangawan Hospital is east of town on Singhanat Bamrung Road (Tel. 0 5361-1378). The post office is opposite the King Singhanat Rajah statue. The Overseas Call Office is upstairs from the post office. There are a few Internet cafes along Khunlumprapas, mostly just gamecenters for kids with Internet service for 20B (50¢) per hour. The Tourist Police are at tel.0 5361-1812 (24 hr.)

Wat Chongklan and Wat Chongkham are reflected in the serene waters of Nong Chongkam Lake, in the heart of town. Their striking white chedis and dark teak viharn tell of Burmese influence. Wat Chongklan was constructed from 1867 to 1871 as an offering to Burmese monks who made the long journey here to the funeral of Wat Chongkham’s abbot. Inside are a series of folk-style glass paintings depicting the Buddha’s life and a small collection of dusty Burmese wood carvings and dolls. The older Wat Chongkham (ca. 1827) was built by King Singhanat Rajah and his queen and is distinguished by gold-leaf columns supporting its viharn. Don’t miss the colorful Burmese-style donation boxes; they’re like musical arcade games with spinning discs and cups to drop your change in, only the end result is not “game over” but “make merit.”

Wat Phra That Doi Kung Mu (also known as Wat Plai Doi) dominates the western hillside above the town, particularly at night when the strings of lights rimming its two Mon pagodas are silhouetted against the dark forest. The oldest part (ca. 1860) of this compound was constructed by King Singhanat Rajah, and a 15-minute climb up its new naga staircase is rewarded by grand views of the mist-shrouded valley, blooming pink cassia trees, and Nong Chongkam Lake below. Each April, the national Poy Sang Long Festival honoring Prince Siddhartha’s decision to become a monk is celebrated here by a parade of novice monks. Below Wat Phra That, there’s a 12m (40-ft.) -long reclining Buddha in Wat Phra Non.

For short 1-day hilltribe treks in the region, Rose Garden Tours (86/4 Khunlumprapas Rd.; Tel. and fax 05361-1577) offers many options including stops at local Meo, Shan and Karen villages and adventure activities like elephant trekking and bamboo rafting.

There are two Padung villages peopled by the famed “long-neck Karen” people close to Mae Hong Son. Rose Garden Tours (above) includes village visits in their all-day tours or can arrange special half-day trips. Huay Sua Tao village is closest to town and easily reached by car or minivan (entrance is 250B/$6) and Nam Phiang Din Village is accessible by boat for 600B ($15).

The early ’90s brought large-scale development to Mae Hong Son and there are a few high-end hotel options downtown and a few rustic resorts in the surrounding hills.

Imperial Tara Mae Hong Son The Tara is the top choice for the upscale traveler in Mae Hong Son. Though located some 2km (11⁄4 miles) out of town, the hotel’s style, service, decor and upkeep set it far above the rest. Guestrooms overlook a teak forest, garden and stream. All furnishings are in blond wood and wicker on “bowling-alley” shined floors. Most rooms have spacious balconies and suites are large and luxurious. The fine free-form pool is surrounded by a wooden deck and the open-air restaurant has views of the grounds and garden. They have lots of amenities and the staff is very professional and can help with any eventuality, from day-tours to flat tires.

149 Moo 8, Tampon Pang Moo, Mae Hong Son 58000 (2km/11⁄4 miles south of town).Tel. 0 5361-1021. Fax 05361-1252. 104 units. 4,000B ($97) double; from 5,300B ($129) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; lounge; outdoor pool; fitness center; sauna; tour desk; limited room service; massage; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe.

Bai Yoke Chalet With the best location, on the main street and in walking distance of everything in town, this hotel offers simple, midsize rooms with high ceilings, hardwood floors and clean guesthouse-style bathrooms. Rooms overlooking the back are quieter. The hotel bar and restaurant, Chalet, looks over the main street in town, hosts live bands and is “where it’s at” for locals in Mae Hong Son.

90 Khunlumprapas, Chong Kham, Amphur Muang, Mae Hong Son 58000 (midtown across from post office). Tel. 0 5361-1536. Fax 05361-1533. 40 units. 1,400B–1,600B ($34–$39) double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; tour desk; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge.

Fern Resort Out in the sticks some 8km (5 miles) south of town and just next to the Mae Surin National Park, the Fern Resort rests in a quiet valley along a rushing stream and promises comfort and harmony with nature. Tai Yai (Shan)–style bungalows have thong tueng leaf roofs, glass windows and doors, simple but comfortable local-style furnishings, electric lights, and hot water in slate-tiled showers. Newer bungalows are large and uniquely luxurious for such a rural spot. They have good trail maps of the immediate area and the resort’s friendly bevy of dogs will accompany you on a self-guided tour (borrow a walking stick and just follow the pups). Experienced human guides are also available for more extensive treks. Fern’s restaurant offers local, Thai, and international cuisine or ride the shuttle to town (three times daily) to dine at the market or their in-town restaurant.

64 Bann Hua Num Mae Sakut, T. Pha Bong, Mae Hong Son 58000 (8km/5 miles south of town).Tel. 0 5368-0001. Fax 05361-2363. 33 bungalows. 950B ($23) bungalow w/fan; 1,500B ($38) bungalow w/A/C. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bike rental; tour desk; laundry service. In room: No phone.

Mountain Inn You can’t miss the dynamic angular spire of the oversized Thai Yai–style peaked roofs marking the entrance to this compound. Originally built to house cast and crew for the filming of “Air America” in 1989, this place has lots of charm and is in a good location just south of the town center. Comfortable guestrooms are arranged in two stories around lush central gardens. The hotel is a bit light on amenities and you won’t find many English speakers on staff, but they’re helpful as all get-out. Spring for a deluxe room with parquet floors instead of old carpet, more local do-dads and a bit of panache. Bathrooms are large with terra-cotta tile and even granite counters in deluxe rooms.

112/2 Khunlumprapas Rd., T. Jongkhum, Mae Hong Son 58000 (on the southern end of the main drag). Tel. 0 5361-1802-3. Fax 05361-2284. 65 units. 1,900B–2,200B ($46–$54) double; 4,000B ($97) suite; seasonal rate available. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; tour desk; car rental; massage; laundry. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.

Piya Guest House This is the best budget choice on beautiful Jong Kham Lake, easily the nicest part of town and a short walk to the two lakeside temples.

Piya is a one-story wooden house with a garden courtyard; basic rooms have private baths, hot-water showers and are bare basic but not too bad. Piya also runs a trekking service and rents out bikes and motorbikes at reasonable prices.

1/1 Khunlumprapas, Soi 3, Chong Kham, Amphur Muang, Mae Hong Son 58000 (east side of Jong Kham Lake).Tel. 0 5361-1260. 14 units. 600B ($15) bungalow w/A/C. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bike rental; tour desk; laundry service. In room: no phone.

The local Night Market on central Khunlumprapas is the busiest venue for budget travelers. Sample noodle soups, crisp-fried beef, dried squid, roast sausage, fish balls, and other snacks sold by vendors for very little. Open early to late.

Fern Restaurant and Bar THAI/CHINESE/INTERNATIONAL The biggest and best restaurant in town serves an especially wide variety of food for this part of the country—all of it well prepared and pleasantly served. The bar at the entrance has an inviting quality, and behind it an open-air deck stretches back toward an entertainment area with live music and a karaoke bar. If you come in the early evening, head for the far back to get a view of the mountaintop temple, Wat Phra That Doi Kung Mu, in the evening glow.

87 Khunlumprapas Rd. (11⁄2 blocks south of traffic light, on left).Tel. 0 5361-1374. Main courses 40B–180B ($1–$4.40). AE, MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm.

Kai-Mook THAI/CHINESE Kai-Mook is a tin-roofed pavilion with more style than most: Overhead lights are shaded by straw farmer’s hats, and Formica tables are interspersed between bamboo columns. The Thai and Chinese menu includes Kai-mook salad, a tasty blend of crispy fried squid, cashews, sausage, and onions, and a large selection of light and fresh stir-fried dishes.

23 Udom Chaonitesh Rd. (1 block south of traffic light, turn left [east] and find it on right).Tel. 0 5361-2092. Main courses 50B–150B ($1.20–$3.65). No credit cards. Daily 9:30am–2pm and 5:30–9pm.

180km (99miles) W of Chiang Mai; 130km (80miles) S of Mae Hong Son

The tiny town of Mae Sariang proper boasts no grand museums or shiny hilltop temples; it’s just a cozy river-town along the border with Burma and the best halfway stopover on the long southern link between Mae Hong Son and Chiang Mai. Driving in the area, along Route 108, takes you past pastoral villages, scenic rolling hills and a few enticing side-trips to small local temples and waterfalls. Mae Sariang offers only basic accommodations.

By Car Navigation is a cinch. Just follow Rte. 108 between Mae Hong Son, Mae Sariang and Chiang Mai. Carry a good road map for following side-roads.

By Bus Standard and Air-con buses connect Mae Hong Son, Mae Sariang and Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 5324-2664) along the southern leg of Rte. 108. Six daily non-air-conditioned buses depart Chiang Mai for the 8–12 hour journey and cost 115B ($2.80) to Mae Hong Son and just 59B ($1.40) to stop in Mae Sariang. One air-conditioned bus makes the same trip and departs Chiang Mai at 9am (206B/$5 to Mae Hong Son; 106B/$2.60 to Mae Sariang).

The road is good and the scenery is lush on the long stretch of Rte. 108. west of Chiang Mai. Don’t forget to stop and smell the fertilizer or take side trips wherever possible. Roadside dining and service facilities are limited, but adequate.

Sixty-three kilometers south of Mae Hong Son, in the village of Khun Yuam, you’ll come to a junction with a road that no longer exists: a ghost trail remembered as “The Road of Japanese Skeletons” and the path of retreat for Japanese soldiers fleeing Burma at the end of WWII. The road lives only in the memory of those who met the starved and dying troops, an estimated 20,000 of whom lie in mass graves in the surrounding area. The Japanese War Museum (just south of the junction of Rte. 108 and Rte. 163) commemorates this sorry chapter in history and is worth a visit. The museum features rusting tanks and weaponry, photos, personal effects and written accounts (in Japanese, English and Thai) of soldiers’ struggles and the kindness of the locals.

Mae Sariang has a few outfits selling day treks and rafting (stop in any of the riverside cafes or hotels), but most just spend a night here before making their way to Chaing Mai. Between Mae Sariang and Chiang Mai you’ll pass near Doi Inthanon National Park and the city of Lamphun. 

There is but a rag-tag collection of budget accommodation along the Mae Yuam river in the town of Mae Sariang. Riverhouse Hotel (77 Langpanich Rd.; Tel. 0 5362-1201) is the best of the lot and offers a clean guesthouse standard in its cozy wooden pavilion. Riverhouse is also a good bet for dining, but a short stroll through town will take you past any number of local greasy spoons where the adventurous can find a meal of noodles or rice and curry for next to nothing.

780km (485 miles) NE of Bangkok; 180km (112 miles) NE of Chiang Mai Chiang Rai is Thailand’s northernmost province. The Mekong River makes its borders with Laos to the east and Burma to the west. The smaller, yet scenic Mae Kok River, which supports many hilltribe villages along its banks, flows right through the provincial capital of the same name.

Chiang Rai lies some 565m (1,885 ft.) above sea level in a wide fertile valley, and its cool refreshing climate, tree-lined riverbanks, and popular but more subdued Night Market lures travelers weary of traffic congestion and pollution in Chiang Mai. Although Chiang Rai has some passable hotels and restaurants and a few small attractions, most just use this as a base for trips to Chiang Saen and the Golden Triangle.

By Plane Thai Airways (Tel. 0 5321-0431 in Chiang Mai) has four daily flights from Bangkok to Chiang Rai (flying time: 85 min.), and from Chiang Mai as well (flying time: 30 min.).

The Chiang Rai International Airport (Tel. 0 5379-8000) is about 10km (6 miles) north of town. There’s a bank exchange open daily 9am to 5pm and a gift shop. Taxis hover outside expectantly: 150B ($3.65) to town, more to other towns in the province.

By Bus Three air-conditioned VIP 24-seat buses leave daily from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 2936 2841-8 Ext. 614, 0 2576 5599, 0 2936 2852-66) to Chiang Rai (trip time: 11 hr.; 700B/$16). Buses leave hourly between 6am and 5:30pm from Chiang Mai’s Arcade Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 5324-2664) (trip time: 31⁄2 hr.; 66B/$1.60 non-airconditioned;

119B/$2.90 air-conditioned). Chiang Rai’s Khon Song Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 5371-1369) couldn’t be more conveniently located—on Phrasopsook Road off Phaholyothin Road near the Night Market just in the center of town. Tuk-tuks and samlors are easy to catch here for trips around town for 30B to 60B (70¢–$1.45).

By Car The fast, not particularly scenic, route from Bangkok is Highway 1 North, direct to Chiang Rai. A slow, scenic approach on blacktop mountain roads is Route 107 north from Chiang Mai to Fang, then Route 109 east to Highway 1.

The TAT (Tel. 0 5374-4674-5, 0 5371-7433) is located at 448/16 Singhakai Rd., near Wat Phra Singh on the north side of town, and the Tourist Police are next door. The monthly Welcome to Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai is distributed free by most hotels, and has a good, reliable map of the town and many hotels also hand out useful town maps.

Chiang Rai is a small city, with most services grouped around the main northsouth street, Paholyothin Road. There are three noteworthy landmarks: the small clock tower in the city’s center; the statue of King Mengrai (the city’s founder) at the northeast corner of the city, on the superhighway to Mae Chan; and the Mae Kok River at the north edge of town. Singhakai Road is the main artery on the north side of town, parallel to the river. The bus station is on Prasopsuk Road, 1 block east of Paholyothin Road, near the Wiang Inn Hotel. The Night Market is on Paholyothin Road near the bus station.

By Samlor or Tuk-Tuk You’ll probably find walking the best method of transport. However, there are samlors (pedicabs), parked outside the Night Market and on the banks of the Mae Kok River; they charge 20B to 30B (50¢–75¢) for in-town trips. During the day there are tuk-tuks, which charge 30B to 60B (75¢–$1.50) for in-town trips.

By Bus Frequent local buses are the easiest and cheapest way to get to nearby cities. All leave from the bus station (Tel. 05371-1369) on Prasopsuk Road near the Wiang Inn Hotel.

By Motorcycle A good choice to get out of town. Soon Motorcycle, 197/2 Trirath Rd. (Tel. 0 5371-4068) charges 180B ($4.10) for a 100cc motorbike.

By Car Budget has a branch at the Golden Triangle Inn (see “Where to Stay,” below), 590 Phaholyothin Rd. (Tel. 0 5371-1339), offering the standard rate beginning at 1,500B ($37) for a Suzuki Caribian.

Several bank exchanges are located on Paholyothin Road in the center of town and are open daily from 8:30am to 10pm. The post office is 2 blocks north of the Clock Tower on Uttarakit Road. There are a few Internet cafes along the main drag, Phaholyothin Road, with average service for as little as 20B/50¢ per hour. The Overbrook Hospital (Tel. 0 5371-1366) is on the north side of town at Singhakai and Trairat roads, west of the TAT. The Tourist Police (Tel. 0 5371-7796) are next to the TAT on Singhakai Road.

Wat Phra Kaeo, on Trairat Road on the northwest side of town, is the best known of the northern wats because it once housed the Emerald Buddha now at Bangkok’s royal Wat Phra Kaeo. Near its Lanna-style chapel is the chedi, which (according to legend) was struck by lightning in 1436 to reveal the precious green jasper Buddha. There is now a green jade replica of the image on display.

Wat Phra Singh is 2 blocks east of Wat Phra Kaeo. The restored wat is thought to date from the 15th century. Inside is a replica of the Phra Singh Buddha, a highly revered Theravada Buddhist image; the original was removed to Chiang Mai’s Wat Phra Singh.

The Burmese-style Wat Doi Tong (Phra That Chomtong) sits atop a hill above the northwest side of town, up a steep staircase off Kaisornrasit Road, and offers an overview of the town and a panorama of the Mae Kok valley. It’s said that King Mengrai himself chose the site for his new Lanna capital from this very hill. The circle of columns at the top of the hill surrounds the city’s new lak muang (city pillar), built to commemorate the 725th anniversary of the city and King Bhumibol’s 60th birthday. It is often criticized for its failure to represent local style. (You can see the old wooden lak muang in the wihaan of the wat.)  The Population and Community Development Association (PDA), 620/25 Thanalai Rd., east of Wisetwang Road (Tel. 0 5371-9167), is a nongovernmental organization responsible for some of the most effective tribal development projects in the region. The popular “Cabbages & Condoms” restaurants, with branches here and in Bangkok (and now a resort in Pattaya), carry their important message of safesex and family planning and this organization has also championed large waterworks and agricultural projects. Their work for sustainable rural development continues, only now the organization seems to spend a lot of effort promoting itself and entering ever-larger commercial ventures. Makes you wonder. On the top floor of this office is a small Hilltribe Museum that’s heavy on “shop” and light on “museum,” but the admission goes to a good cause. Open daily 9am to 8pm; admission 50B ($1.20).

The Mae Kok River is one of the most scenic attractions in Chiang Rai. Hire a long-tail boat to ferry you up and down the river. You’ll have the option to stop at the Buddha cave, a temple within a cavern; an elephant camp, for trekking; a hot spring; and a riverside Lahu village. Trips range from 300B to 700B ($7–$16), depending on the stops you make. The ferry pier is beyond the bridge across from the Dusit Island Resort. Call C. R. Harbour (Tel. 0 5375-0009) for information and taxi pickup; or contact Maesalong Tours, 882–4 Phaholyothin Rd. (Tel. 0 5371-2515; fax 05371-1011).

Most of the hilltribe villages within close range of Chiang Rai have long-ago been setup for routine visits by group tours (not recommended). If your time is too limited for a trek, in-town travel agencies offer day trips to the countryside and areas less-traveled. Guided tours with transport are priced on a two-person minimum and greater discounts are available for groups of three or more.

The best operation in Chiang Rai is Golden Triangle Tours , 590 /3 moo 2 T. Wiang A" Muang Chiang Rai (Tel. 0 5374-0478; fax 05371-3963; www.goldenchiangrai.com.).

They are professional, experienced and offer an array of tours or cater to personal interests. For hilltribe treks, choose anything from a day trip to a week of adventure. Day trips to surrounding villages begin at 1,500B ($37) and can include light trekking to villages as well as elephant trekking for groups of two or three people (private tours cost a bit more). Longer treks range in price from 1,500B–3,000B ($37–$73) for anything from multiday trips in the Golden Triangle to 3 to 5-day sojourns among Akha, Hmong, Yao, Karen, and Lahu tribes.

Exciting 4ื4 treks along the opium trail follow new routes cut by government agencies to hurry local produce to market and thus replace community reliance on cultivating opium poppies.

This city of 40,000 has well over 2,000 hotel rooms, but group tours fill them up in high season. With the exception of the two expensive resorts across the river, most hotels are within walking distance of the sights and shopping.

Dusit Island Resort Hotel Chiang Rai’s best resort hotel occupies a large delta island in the Mae Kok River. It’s international comfort at the expense of local flavor and hominess. The dramatic lobby is a soaring space of teak, marble, and glass, as grand as any in Thailand, with panoramic views of the Mae Kok. Rooms are luxuriously appointed in pastel cottons and teak trim. The Dusit Island has manicured grounds, pool, and numerous facilities that make the resort quite self-contained (they do have good shuttle service to town though). The hotel’s most formal dining room is the semicircular Peak on the 10th floor, with sweeping views and a grand terrace overlooking the Mae Kok (pricey but good). Chinatown is a more casual Cantonese restaurant serving a great dim sum lunch. In the evening, there’s the cozy Music Room bar and the resort covers all bases.

1129 Kraisorasit Rd., Amphur Muang 57000, Chiang Rai (over bridge at northwest corner of town). Tel. 0 5371-5777. Fax 05371-5801. www.dusit.com. 271 units. 4,532B–5,179B ($110–$126) superior/deluxe double; from 7,769B ($189) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3. restaurants; lounge and pub; outdoor pool; lighted tennis courts; fitness center w/Jacuzzi, sauna, steam, massage; spa w/Jacuzzi, sauna, steam, massage; game room; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; sameday laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, safe.

Rimkok Resort Hotel Everything is done on a large scale at the Rimkok. Not particularly luxurious, just big. It’s a bit distant from town but thoroughly self-contained. Guestrooms are airy with high ceilings and balconies and some Thai touches in an overall bland but comfortable set-up. Public spaces are capped with high-peaked Thai roofs and are grand, featuring Thai decor and artwork.

Lushly planted lawns surround the large central pool. The Rimkok Resort offers shuttle service to town (to visit the market) and there’s an attractive coffee shop as well as a cozy poolside bar.

6 Moo 4, Tathorn Rd., Amphur Muang, 57100 Chiang Rai (on north shore of Kok River, about 6km/33⁄4 miles north of town center). Tel. 0 5371-6445. Fax 05371-5859. www.Rimkokresort.com. 256 units. 1,900B ($46) double; from 6,000B ($146) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar and lounge; large outdoor pool; Jacuzzi; tour desk; limousine service; business center; shopping; salon; limited room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge.

Wangcome Hotel The Wangcome is located just a stones throw from the Night Market and is the best downtown hotel. Rooms are small but comfortable, detailed with Lanna Thai touches like their fine carved teak headboards. Central rooms face an outdoor swimming pool. There’s a lively coffee shop and a moody cocktail lounge, a popular rendezvous spot after the Night Market closes.

896/90 Penawibhata Rd., Chiang Rai Trade Center, Amphur Muang 57000, Chiang Rai (west off Paholyothin Rd.). Tel. 0 5371-1800. Fax 05371-2973. 234 units. 1,600B ($39) double; from 2,000B ($49) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; small pool; tour desk; limousine service; business center; massage; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge.

Wiang Inn Wiang Inn has a large pool, a reputable tour desk and a helpful staff: sufficient ingredients for good accommodation. The hotel has a convenient location (just around the corner from the bus station and opposite the Night Market) and is a close second to the Wangcome Hotel (above). Large rooms are trimmed in dark teak, with pale teak furniture and Thai artwork, including Lanna murals over the beds and ceramic vase table lamps. It’s very well maintained, despite the steady stream of group tours, which makes an early booking advisable.

893 Paholyothin Rd., Amphur Muang 57000, Chiang Rai (center of town, south of bus station). Tel. 0 5371-1533. Fax 05371-1877. 256 units. 1,600B–2,000B ($39–$49) double; from 4,000B ($98) suite. AE, DC, MC,

V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar and karaoke lounge; outdoor pool; tour desk; limited room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge.

The Golden Triangle Inn A charming little hotel that offers comfort and lots of style and character, Golden Triangle is set in its own quiet little garden patch—once inside you’d never believe bustling Chiang Rai is just beyond the front entrance. Large rooms have terra-cotta tiled floors, traditional-style furniture, and reproductions of Lanna artifacts and paintings. The owners and management are very down-to-earth and extremely helpful; they are the local operators of Budget Car Rental and their in-house travel agency, Golden Triangle Tours, is the best choice in town for arranging travel in the area. Their restaurant is excellent (see “Where to Dine” below).

590 Paholyothin Rd., Amphur Muang 57000, Chiang Rai (2 blocks north of bus station).Tel. 0 5371-1339. Fax 05371-3963. 30 units. 900B ($22) double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; tour desk; car-rental desk; laundry service. In room: A/C, no phone.

The Night Market is the best for budget eats, but beyond that there are a few good restaurants to choose from. Be sure to sample the town’s delicacies like the huge ching kong catfish, caught in April to May; litchis, which ripen in June and July; and the sweet nanglai pineapple wine.

Cabbages & Condoms THAI Sister restaurant to Cabbages and Condoms in Bangkok, this northern branch was opened by the Population & Community Development Association to promote their humanitarian work in the region.

The extensive Thai menu is excellent and features local catfish cooked as you like. They play host to lots of events and live bands and it’s a popular stop for tour groups, which also come for the exhibit upstairs (see “What to See & Do,” above).

620/25 Thanalai Rd. Tel. 0 5371-9167. Main courses 70B–200B ($1.70–$4.90). MC, V. Daily 10am–11pm.

Golden Triangle Café THAI At the entrance to the Golden Triangle Inn

(see “Where to Stay,” above), one of the best choices in town for accommodation is also where to find the best Thai meal going. Everything is delicious, but perhaps the best reason to eat here is for the menu, which carefully explains the various dishes that make up a standard Thai meal, describing the ingredients and preparation of each. They have the obligatory sandwiches and burger, but go for regional treats, especially the curry sweetened with local litchies (when in season).

After studying the menu, you can order what you like in any restaurant—in Thai, too!

Golden Triangle Inn, 590 Phaholyothin Rd. Tel. 0 5371-1339. Entrees 80B–250B ($2–$6.10). MC, V. Daily 8am–10:30pm.

The Night Market/Food Stalls Every night after 7pm, the cavernous, tin-roofed Municipal Market at the town center comes alive with dozens of chrome-plated food stalls that serve steamed, grilled, and fried Thai treats. It’s where locals meet, greet and eat and really the heart of the town (a busy mercantile market as well) so don’t miss a wander here even if you’re not into streeteats.

For standard dining in the market, try Ratanakosin, a little market-side edifice done up in contemporary Thai style and serving good local cuisine (mostly for tour groups). And just outside the main entrance to the market on the main drag is Aye’s Restaurant (869/170 Paholyothin Rd.; Tel. 0 5375-2534) serving some familiar, if not all that exciting, European fare.

The recent influx of tourists has made Chiang Rai a magnet for hilltribe clothing and crafts. You’ll find many boutiques in the Night Market near the bus terminal off Phaholyothin Road, as well as some fine shops scattered around the city.

The main activity is wandering the Night Market which is really just a more toned-down version of the raucous Night Bazaar in Chiang Mai. Like its big-city model, you can find a few bars and clubs (a bit seedy but fun). In Chiang Rai there are the standard “bar beer” storefronts with names like Patpong Bar, Lobo, and Butterfly lining the road just a short walk west of the market along Punyodyana Rd. behind the Wangcome Hotel. Here you can find a few quiet pubs as well.

935km (581 miles) NE of Bangkok; 239km (148 miles) NE of Chiang Mai

The small village of Chiang Saen has a sleepy, rural charm, as if the waters of the Mekong carry a palpable calm from nearby Burma and Laos. The road from Chiang Rai (59km/37 miles) follows the small Mae Nam Chan River past coconut groves and rice paddies guarded by water buffalo. Poinsettias and gladiola decorate thatched Lanna Thai houses with peaked rooflines that extend into Xs like buffalo horns. Deep irrigation ditches paralleling the road are often busy with women swinging fishing nets or sorting their catch in baskets balanced on inner tubes. Whole families in brightly patterned longyi (Burmese-style sarong) carefully tend fields of tobacco, strawberries, and pineapple.

Little Chiang Saen, the birthplace of expansionary King Mengrai, was abandoned for the new Lanna Thai capitals of Chiang Rai, then Chiang Mai, in the 13th century. With the Mekong River and the Laos border hemming in its growth, modern developers went elsewhere. Today, the slow rural pace, decaying regal wats, crumbling fort walls, and overgrown moat contribute greatly to its appeal. After visiting the museum and local sites, most travelers head west along the Mekong to the Golden Triangle, the north’s prime attraction.

Once upon a time, the Golden Triangle was the center point of many illicit activities. The name was given to the area where Thailand, Laos, and Burma come together—a proximity that facilitated overland drug transportation of opium and heroin in its first steps toward international markets. Thai authorities have mounted a concerted effort to stop the drug traffic here and, while some illegal activity goes unchecked, the area is hardly dangerous. Rather, Ban Sob Ruak, the Thai town at the junction, is a long and disappointing row of souvenir stalls. Still, if you stand at the crook of the river, you can look to the right to see Laos and to the left to see Myanmar (Burma). When the river is low, a large sandbar appears that is apparently unclaimed by any authority.

By Bus Buses from Chiang Rai’s Kohn Song Bus Terminal leave every 15 minutes from 6am to 6pm (trip time: 11⁄2 hr.; 20B/50¢). The bus drops you on Chiang Saen’s main street. The museum and temples are within walking distance.

Public songtao, or pickups, make frequent trips between Chiang Saen and the Golden Triangle for about 20B/50¢.

By Car Take the superhighway Route 110 north from Chiang Rai to Mae

Chan, then Route 1016 Northeast to Chiang Saen.

The nearest TAT office is in Chiang Rai. Pick up a useful map at the National Museum (see below).

Route 1016 is the village’s main street, also called Paholyothin Road, which terminates at the Mekong River. Along the river road there are a few guesthouses, eateries, and souvenir, clothing, and food stalls.

On Foot There’s so little traffic it’s a pleasure to walk; all of the in-town sights are within 15 minutes’ walk of each other.

By Bicycle and Motorcycle It’s a great bike ride (45 min.) from Chiang Saen to the prime nearby attraction, the Golden Triangle. The roads are well paved and pretty flat. Chiang Saen House Rent Motor, on the river road just east of the main street intersection, has good one-speed bicycles for 30B (70¢) per day and 100cc motorcycles (no insurance, no helmets) for 180B ($4.10) per day.

By Samlor Motorized pedicabs hover by the bus stop in town to take you to the Golden Triangle for 60B ($1.35) one-way. Round-trip fares with waiting time are negotiable to about 250B ($5.70) for about 2 hours.

By Songtao Songtao (truck taxis) can be found on the main street across from the market; rides cost only 10B (25¢) to the Golden Triangle, or to nearby guesthouses.

By Long-tail Boat Long-tail boat captains down by the river offer Golden Triangle tours for as little as 400B ($9.75) per boat (seating eight) per half-hour.

Many people enjoy the half-hour cruise, take a walk around the village of Sob Ruak after they’ve seen the Golden Triangle, and then continue on by bus.

There’s a Siam Commercial Bank in the center of Phaholyothin Road, Route 1016, the main street, just close to the bus stop, post and telegram office (no overseas service and few local telephones), the police station, the many temples, and The Chiang Saen National Museum. There is a currency exchange booth at the Golden Triangle.

Allow at least half a day to see all of Chiang Saen’s historical sights before exploring the Golden Triangle. To help with orientation, make the museum your first stop. There’s a good map about local historical sites on its second floor.

The Chiang Saen National Museum, 702 Paholyothin Rd. (Tel. 0 5377-7102), houses a small but very fine collection of this region’s historic and ethnographic products. The ground floor’s main room has a collection of large bronze and stone Buddha images dating from the 15th- to 17th-century Lanna Kingdom. 

Pottery from Sukhothai-era kiln sites is displayed downstairs and on the balcony. The handicrafts and cultural items of local hilltribes are fascinating, particularly the display of Nam Bat, an ingenious fishing tool. Burmese-style lacquer ware, Buddha images, and wood carvings scattered through the museum reinforce the similarities seen between Chiang Saen and its spiritual counterpart, Pagan. Allow an hour to go through the museum carefully. It’s open Wednesday to Sunday 9am to 4pm, closed holidays; admission 30B (75¢).

Wat Pa Sak, the best preserved, is set in a landscaped historical park that contains a large, square-based stupa and six smaller chedis and temples. The park preserves what’s left of the compound’s 1,000 teak trees. The wat is said to have been constructed in 1295 by King Saen Phu to house relics of the Buddha, though some historians believe its ornate combination of Sukhothai and Pagan styles dates it later. The historical park is about 201m (660 ft.) west of the Chiang Saen Gate (at the entrance to the village). It’s open daily 8am to 5pm; admission 20B (50¢).

The area’s oldest wat is still an active Buddhist monastery. Rising from a cluster of wooden dorms, Wat Phra Chedi Luang (or Jadeeloung) has a huge brick chedi that dominates the main street. The wat complex was established in 1331 under the reign of King Saen Phu and was rebuilt in 1515 by King Muang Kaeo.

The old brick foundations, now supporting a very large, plaster seated Buddha flanked by smaller ones, are all that remain. Small bronze and stucco Buddhas excavated from the site are now in the museum. It’s open daily from 8am to 5pm. Admission is free. There are several other wats of note in and around the town. Wat  Mung Muang is the 15th-century square-based stupa seen next to the post office. Above the bell-shaped chedi are four small stupas. Across the street, you can see the bell-shaped chedi from Wat Phra Bouj. It’s rumored to have been built by the prince of Chiang Saen in 1346, though historians believe it’s of the same period as Mung Muang. As you leave Chiang Saen on the river road, going northwest to the Golden Triangle, you’ll pass Wat Pha Kao Pan, with some sculpted Buddha images tucked in niches and on its stupa, then the unrestored vihara mound of Wat Sangakaeo Don Tan. Both are thought to date from the 16th century.

The infamous Golden Triangle (12km/71⁄2 miles northwest of Chiang Saen) is the point where Thailand, Burma, and Laos meet at the confluence of the broad, slow, and silted Mekong and Mae Ruak Rivers. They create Thailand’s north border, separating it from overgrown jungle patches of Burma to the east and forested, hilly Laos to the west. The area’s appeal as a vantage point over forbidden territories is quickly diminishing as there is now a legal crossing into Laos from nearby Chiang Khong.

Nonetheless, a “look” at the home of ethnic hilltribes and their legendary opium trade is still possibly interesting. Despite years of DEA-financed campaigns, the annual yield is still estimated at about half of the heroin sold in the United States. The “surrender” of the notorious drug lord Khun Sa and his Muang Tai Army to the military dictators of Myanmar (Burma) effected little change—there were plenty of others waiting to take his place.

The appeal of this geopolitical phenomenon has created an entire village—Sob Ruak—of thatch souvenir stalls, cheap riverview soda and noodle shops, and very primitive guesthouses. The Hall of Opium (10km/6 miles NW of Chiang Saen;   0 5365-2151; www.goldentriaglepark.org) is an interesting attraction and developed with the support of the Thai Royal Family. Only recently opened, this museum complex covers some 16 hectares (40 acres) of garden overlooking the Mekong.

It is a popular bus tour site, but this newer facility (replacing a kitschy little museum stop) walks visitors through the curious cultivation of the poppies to the history of the opium trade as well as information about recent efforts to suppress international smuggling and address rampant addiction throughout the region. It’s an informative museum and very media-savvy exhibits in both Thai and English make for an entertaining visit.

There are a few guesthouses in Chiang Saen, and two fine resort hotels in the Golden Triangle area. The area is very scenic and relaxing.

Anantara Resort and Spa Golden Triangle The newly opened Anantara is a triumph of upscale, local design. Every detail reminds you that you’re in the scenic hilltribe region and the resorts elegance and style depend on locally produced weavings, carved teak panels, and expansive views of the juncture of the Ruak and Mekong Rivers. The balconied rooms have splendid views and are so spacious and private you’ll feel like you’re in your own bungalow. Tiled foyers lead to large bathrooms and bedrooms are furnished in teak and traditional fabrics.

229 Moo 1, Chiang Saen 57150, Chiang Rai (above river, 12km/71⁄2 miles northwest of Chiang Saen). Tel 800/225-5843 in the U.S., or 05378-4084. Fax 05378-4090. www.anantara.com. 90 units. 4,100B–5,700B ($100–$140) double; 11,000B ($270) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge and bar; outdoor pool; outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center w/Jacuzzi, Mandara Spa w/sauna, and massage; bike rental; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center; shopping arcade; salon; limited room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV w/inhouse movies, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe.

The Imperial Golden Triangle Resort This five-story hotel block stands in the western corner of the tiny, souvenir village of Ban Sob Ruak. Modern, spacious guest rooms with pastel and rattan decor have large balconies and the more expensive rooms overlook the Golden Triangle. It’s a fine, comfortable choice if you’re passing through, but pales in comparison to the nearby Anantara (see above). There’s a three-story, Lanna Thai–style restaurant and a good cocktail lounge.

Many make Chiang Rai or Chiang Saen their last port of call in the land of Thai and head overland to rugged but inviting Laos. It is possible to travel downriver 70km (43 miles) to Chiang Khong, a small border town (buses and local songtao also make the connection from either Chiang Rai or Chiang Saen). Most travelers head right across the border, but if you are stuck in Chiang Khong, try Reuan Thai Sophapham (Tel. 0 5379-1023), on the river (simple rooms, some air-conditioned, are 350B–600B/US$8.50–$14.50). You’ll need to arrange a visa to enter Laos, best done in Bangkok or Chiang Mai at any travel agent. Once over the border, the slow boat to Luang Prabang is rugged but memorable.

222 Golden Triangle, Chiang Saen, 57150 Chiang Rai (in Sob Ruak, 11km/7 miles northwest of Chiang Saen). Tel. 0 5378-4001. Fax 05378-4006. 73 units. 2,800B–3,200B ($68–$78) double; from 5,600B ($136) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; pool; tour desk; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge.

Chiang Saen River Hill Hotel This is the best choice for in-town, budget accommodations. The River Hill is about 1km (2⁄3 mile) east of the main drag.

They have bicycle rentals for guests and it’s an easy peddle to the center of town. Guest rooms are concrete block rooms with simple tile floors but are dressed in northern finery, with wood carving details, and funky little Lanna-style seating arrangements—floor cushions around low khan toke tables under regal umbrellas. The large and colorful coffee shop (in shades of blue and aqua with little star lights from the ceiling) is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with good selections and a relaxed and refreshing atmosphere.

714 Moo 3 Tambol Viang, Chaeng Saen, Chang Rai (5-min. samlor ride from bus stop).Tel 0 5365-0826. Fax 05365-0830. 60 units. 800B–1,000B ($18–$23) double. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bike rental; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, no phone.

Bua Tong is a species of flowers looking alike sunflowers, but it is smaller than sunflowers. Bua tong field is located in Tambol (Sub-district Mae U Kor, Khun Yuam District, Mae Hong Son province inside Mae Surin National Forest Park covering the area of 4,437 rais (around 800 square-kilometers). At Thung Dok Bua Tong, you can see many Dok Bua Tong growing yellow around the hill; it seems Yellow Ocean of flowers. It is very beautiful along highway no. 108.

       

        Dok Bua Tong will bloom in yellow and veil through all the hill from November to December.

Cool throughout the year. It is very cold in the winter. There are heavy fogs in the morning and cold during the day because of the wind blows all day long.

It’s Hill Evergreen Forest and Pine Evergreen Forest. Most of Hill Evergreen Forest has been found in the north and west of Thung Bua Tong. Flora species grown around the hill slope and valley consist of Castanopsis species and so on.

In the eastern and southern part of Tung Bua Tong, Pine Evergreen Forest has been found. It’s planted by the Forest Industry Organisation based on its concession condition. Flora species found are Pinus merkusii and Pinus kesiya.