Where to Stay and Dine in Bangkok

Where to Stay and Dine in Bangkok

An experienced Asian traveler I know is fond of saying, “Crash a tuktuk in this town and you hit a five-star hotel.” Indeed, Bangkok supports some of the finest accommodations in the world, but the capital also offers a rich variety in all price categories. And you’ll find luxury lodging and fine services at a fraction of what you’d pay in Europe or the U.S. And bring your appetite, as dining in Thailand’s capital is alone worth the trip, everything from superb Thai banquet meals to noodle shops, from gourmet French to pizza and all for very little.

Thailand has always been a fantastic bang for your buck, and many hotels offer great promotional packages with unique inclusions (breakfast, airport transfers, laundry, or local calls). Check chapter 2 for information on finding discounts in Bangkok and elsewhere in the kingdom. Remember—the hotel prices listed in this book are the published rack rates—with the exception of guesthouses, these rarely represent the actual rates you should pay. Contact hotels directly about special deals and see chapter 2 for more budget advice. Unless otherwise noted, the prices listed are subject to 7% government value-added tax and 10% service charge. In the high season (Dec–Feb), you must make reservations well in advance.

This is one of the most convenient and picturesque parts of the city. The river hotels offer great views and access to the fascinating Chao Phraya River, the birthplace of Bangkok. View and access don’t come cheaply though, and you’ll pay the highest prices at the three centrally located facilities.

The Oriental

A high-ranking member in the pantheon of the world’s finest hotels, the Oriental makes for perhaps the most memorable stay in Bangkok. Its history dates from the 1860s when the original hotel, no longer standing, was established by two Danish sea captains soon after King Mongkut (Rama IV) reopened Siam to world trade. The hotel has withstood occupation by Japanese and American troops and played host to a long roster of Thai and international dignitaries and celebrities, including adventurous authors Joseph Conrad, Somerset Maugham, Noël Coward, Graham Greene, John Le Carré, and James Michener. Rooms in the older wing, built in 1876, pack the most colonial richness and charm but are smaller. Rooms in the newer buildings (ca. 1958 and 1976) are certainly more spacious, some with better views of the river, but they sacrifice some of that Oriental Hotel romance. It’s the level and range of service, however, that distinguishes the Oriental from the other riverfront hotels, and everyone from honeymooners and corporate execs to the well-heeled tourist is treated like a diplomat. Even if you don’t stay, stop by for High Tea in the oldest building, now called the Author’s Wing and housing luxury suites. The area was recently renovated and is one of the best-preserved pieces of old Bangkok. A small buffet and tea service costs 942B ($23) and is as atmospheric as it gets in old Siam.

48 Oriental Ave., Bangkok 10500 (on the riverfront off Charoen Krung Rd. [New Rd.]).Tel.+66 2/659-9000. Fax +66 2/659-9284. www.mandarin-oriental.com. 396 units. 12,300B–13,940B ($300–$340) double; from 18,000B ($440) suite. AE, DC, MC,V. 5-min. walk to Saphan Taksin BTS station. Amenities: 4 restaurants; lounge w/world-class live jazz performances; 2 outdoor pools; 2 lighted outdoor tennis courts; state-of-the-art fitness center; luxurious spa w/sauna, steam, massage, and traditional Thai beauty treatments; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; helicopter transfer service; tour boats for river excursions; business center; upmarket shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms; cooking school. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe.

The Peninsula Bangkok

Whether you land on the helicopter pad and promenade into the exclusive top-floor lounge, roll in from the airport in one of the hotel’s Rolls-Royce limousines or step lightly off the wood-decked, custom barges that ply the Chao Praya, you’ll feel like you’ve “arrived” however you get to the Peninsula, one of Bangkok’s most deluxe accommodations. Any possible amenity is available here, from elegant dining to great activities and top-of-the-line business services. Some of the largest in town, all rooms have river views and are done in a refined Thai and Western theme, a good marriage of Thai tradition and high-tech luxury with wooden paneling, silk wallpaper, and attractive carpets. The technical features of each room may make you may feel like you’ve walked into a James Bond film as each room is digitized in ways that only Agent Q could’ve conceived of: Each bedside features a panel control that operates everything from the three phones, voice-mail, climate control, TV, or even the mechanized room curtains. The large marble bathrooms have separate vanity counters and a large tub with a hands-free telephone and TV monitor built-in. “Ask and it will be done,” seems the rule about service and the multi-lingual staff is friendly and very accommodating.

333 Charoennakorn Road, Klongsan, Bangkok 10600. (just across the Chao Praya River from Saphan Taksin Station) Tel. 800/262-9467 in the US; 02861-2888 or 0 2861-1111 in Bangkok. www.peninsula.com. 370 units. 12,300B–18,860B ($300–460) deluxe; 40,180B–106,600B ($980–$2,600) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; 60m 3-tiered pool; tennis court; state-of-the-art fitness center; full spa service w/sauna, steam, massage and aromatherapy; concierge; tour desk; car-rental; fleet of Rolls Royce limousines; rooftop helicopter pad; tour boats and complimentary ferry service; business center; fine shopping; extensive salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry/dry cleaning; executive check-in. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, hair dryer, safe, CD player.

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel and Towers

The Royal Orchid has the best view of the magnificent Chao Phraya of all the major riverfront inns, and it’s an excellent base for shopping or sightseeing. The rooms are spacious, pastel hued, and trimmed with warm teakwood, lending a refined and distinctly Thai ambience.

The Sheraton Towers, a hotel within a hotel on the 26th through 28^th floors (with its own check-in desk and express elevator), offers more ornate decor and a higher level of service for a premium; Sherton Tower suites, for example, have personal fax machines in the sitting room, and all rooms are staffed by 24-hour butlers. Recent renovations added the luxurious Mandara spa and state-of-the-art fitness center. The large pool area makes it easy to forget the big, crowded city. Try their many fine dining options like “Etc . . .” (see “Where to Dine,” later in this chapter). The hotel is a good home base for exploring the riverfront, and they have a walkway leading to the popular River City Shopping Complex next door.

2 Captain Bush Lane, Siphya Rd., Bangkok 10500 (next to River City Mall).Tel. 800/325-3535 or 02266-0123. Fax 02236-8320. www.royalorchidsheraton.com. 740 units. 8,600B–11,300B ($210–$275) double; from 13,000B ($315) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. 15-min. walk to Saphan Taksin BTS station. Amenities: 4 restaurants; lounge; 2 outdoor pools open 24 hr.; outdoor lighted tennis court; brand-new 24-hr. fitness center w/sauna; new and luxurious spa w/private plunge pools, steam, massage, and beauty treatments; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; 24-hr. business center; small shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV w/pay movies, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.

Shangri-La Hotel

The modern, opulent Shangri-La, on the banks of the Chao Phraya, boasts acres of polished marble, a jungle of tropical plants and flowers, and two towers with breathtaking views of the river. The higher priced guest rooms have a view of the river, but all rooms are decorated with lush carpeting and teak furniture and have marble bathrooms. The views are terrific from the higher floor deluxe rooms, and most have either a balcony or a small sitting room, making them closer to junior suites and a particularly good value for on-the-river upscale accommodations. For such an enormous place, the level of service and facilities is surprisingly good. The luxurious Krung Thep Wing adds another 17-story, riverview tower to the grounds, as well as a riverside swimming pool, restaurant, and breakfast lounge. Guests register in their spacious rooms, surrounded by colorful Thai paintings and glistening Thai silk.

89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, Charoen Krung Rd. (New Rd.), Bangkok 10500 (adjacent to Sathorn Bridge, w/access off Chaoren Krung Rd. [New Rd.] at south end of Silom Rd.).Tel. 800/942-5050 or 02236-7777. Fax 02236-8579. www.shangri-la.com. 850 units. 8,600B–12,300B ($210–$300) double; from 13,500B ($330) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Next to Saphan Taksin BTS station. Amenities: 6 restaurants; lounge and bar; dinner cruise; 2 outdoor pools w/outdoor Jacuzzi; 2 outdoor lighted tennis courts; 2 squash courts; fitness center w/Jacuzzi, sauna, steam, massage, and aerobics classes; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; helicopter transfer; city shuttle service; business center; small shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, dataport, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe.

Bangkok Marriott Resort and Spa 

 Kids   Formerly the Royal Garden Riverside Hotel, the name resort better describes this luxuriously sprawling complex. On the banks of the Chao Phraya across the river and a few miles downstream from the heart of Bangkok, the resort is best reached via long-tail boat. It’s a short trip down river, as you feel the crazy city release you from its grip. Once at the resort, the big city seems a distant memory. The three wings of the hotel surround a large landscaped pool area with lily ponds and fountains, and there is a wonderful spa for a very uniquely calming Bangkok experience. Boats go to and from River City shopping mall every half-hour until evening. Choose the Bangkok Marriott if you want to explore Bangkok and at the same time escape.

257/1–3 Charoen Nakhorn Rd., at the Krungthep Bridge, Bangkok 10600 (on the Thonburi [east] side of the Chao Phraya River, 15 min. by boat from River City).Tel. 800/228-9290 or 02476-0022. Fax 02476-1120. www.marriotthotels.com. 413 units. 4,100B–6,000B ($100–$145) double; from 7,200B ($175) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 5 restaurants; bar and lounge; dinner cruise; large, landscaped pool w/Jacuzzi; 2 outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center w/sauna; new spa w/massage and beauty treatments; children’s recreation programs; concierge; tour desk; limousine service; business center; adjoining shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, dataport, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.


Here’s a riverside value. For a large hotel, the place offers a fair amount of charm but tends to attract very large group tours, kind of off-putting sometimes. It’s a lengthy bus or taxi trip from most of the major tourist attractions, but if you’re adventurous enough to try the riverboats (highly recommended), the location can work to your advantage. The hotel is a 10-minute walk from Janyawat pier, far south of the central riverside area, and public boats run until 7pm each day (the hotel also offers occasional riverboat shuttles).   

Deluxe riverview rooms are nicely appointed, with modern Thai decorative touches and marble-tiled bathrooms. The style and view set them well apart from the less appealing (but cheaper) cityview standard rooms, which look a bit worn down by the steady stream of tour groups. Ask about discounts as low as 50%. The recently renovated pool area is great for winding down from a day of touring.

2074 Charoen Krung Rd. (New Rd.), Yannawa, Bangkok 10120 (3km/2 miles south of Thaksin Bridge). Tel. 0 2688-1000. Fax 02291-9400, 0 2291 1048 . www.menamriverside-hotel.com. 711 units. 4,500B ($109) double; from 5,400B ($132) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; lounge and bar; very large outdoor pool; fitness center w/sauna, steam, and aerobics classes; children’s playground; tour desk; car-rental desk; boat hire; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day l aundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.

It’s not on the water and there are no views, but the spiffy little Bossotel is convenient to Saphan Taksin BTS stop and close to the river. The hotel attracts folks on a budget (ask about discount rates for longer stays). Rooms are large but very basic, the furniture and decor a monotone gray, and the staff is helpful but few speak any English. They have good, affordable massage on the second floor.

55/12–13 Soi Charoen Krung 42/1, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 (5-min. walk to Saphan Taksin BTS station just off Charoen Krung Rd., on Soi 42, near Shangri-La Hotel).  Tel.02630-6120. Fax 02237-3225. 46 units.

1,000B–1,800B ($24–$44) double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Coffee shop; tour desk; small business center; limited room service; massage; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.

It’s a trip to the past really in the small streets and alleyways of busy Chinatown, really one of Bangkok’s more out-of-the way destinations and a unique choice for foreign visitors.

Grand China Princess

Luxurious yet affordable, close to many attractions, and only a 5-minute walk from Ratchawong pier and the Chao Phraya ferry system, standing amid the bustling shop houses and businesses of colorful Chinatown, the Grand China Princess begins 10 stories above a shopping arcade and Chinese restaurant. Recent cosmetic improvements in guestrooms provide all of the contemporary necessities, amenities usually found in more expensive hotels, without sparing Oriental touches and character. Suites are especially large and done in muted tones of rose and gray. The 25th floor features Bangkok’s first revolving lounge, with spectacular views over the city and Chao Phraya River.

215 Yaowarat Rd., Samphantawong, Bangkok 10100 (corner of Ratchawong Rd., just south of Charoen Krung [New Rd.]).Tel. 0 2224-9977. Fax 02224-7999. www.grandchina.com. 155 units. 3,200B–3,500B ($78–$85) double; from 7,000B ($171) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; rooftop revolving lounge; small rooftop pool; active fitness center w/Jacuzzi, sauna, massage, and aerobics classes; concierge; tour desk; limousine service; business center; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, safe, IDD phone.

Royal Princess

This first-class hotel near the Grand Palace in the Ratanakosin Island area is another of the many fine Dusit Thani Hotels and is great for travelers interested in the sights of old Bangkok. Public spaces are wallto-wall marble and bustle with activity, yet the scale is intimate. Guest rooms are very tastefully furnished and bright. While higher priced deluxe rooms have balconies overlooking the tropically landscaped pool, the superior rooms of the same style look out over the neighborhood. It’s a 10-minute taxi ride to either the Grand Palace or Vimanmek Palace, and though the area lacks a diversity of dining, the authentic flavor of this old neighborhood more than compensates.

269 Larn Luang Rd., Pomprab, Bangkok 10100 (east of Wat Saket).Tel. 0 2281-3088. Fax 02280-1314. www.royalprincess.com. 170 units. 3,600B–3,900B ($88–$95) double; from 7,500B ($183) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; lounge; small landscaped pool; fitness center w/massage; tour desk; shuttle bus service; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.

Chinatown Hotel 

You’re right in the heart of it here, like living among the many storefronts on lower Manhattan’s Mott Street or San Francisco’s Chinatown. It’s a memorable stay for location only: Though bright and tidy compared to other choices in this price category, the facilities are few and both common areas and rooms are compact (though clean). Price variations only reflect room size (there are a few showy, theme suites not worth the upgrade). The front desk staff is friendly but none too helpful.

526 Yaowaraj Rd., Samphuntawong, Bangkok 10100 (3 blocks from Grand China Princess Hotel).Tel. 0 2651-9515 and 0 7633-5200. Fax 02226-1295. www.chinatownhotel.co.th. 60 units. 1,000B–1,700B ($24–$41) double; from 2,300B ($56) suite. MC, V. Amenities: Coffee shop; tour desk; limited room service; massage; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe.



This special little place is deep in the heart of Chinatown, only 5 minutes from the railroad station, and a stone’s throw from the river. It is not particularly comfortable, but the atmosphere of the busy neighborhood and nearby Chinese temples and shops (and, of course, the river views) attract visitors in search of an immersion experience. Part of the appeal is that to get here you’ll have to wander through the neighboring sois, lanes, and labyrinthine alleys. Rooms are nothing special, just guesthouse basic, but some have great views and dining at their rooftop restaurant is an experience in itself.

Be sure to grab a business card at the front desk so you can find your way home once you’ve checked-in (dropping breadcrumbs won’t quite do it).

River View Guest House

768 Soi Panurangsri, Songwat Rd., Sanjao Tosuekong, Taladnoi, Bangkok 10100 (500m/1,640 ft. southeast of railroad station, between the intersection of Songwat and Chaoren Krung rds. and the river). Tel. 0 2234-5429. Fax 02237-5428. 45 units. 450B ($10) double w/fan; from 690B ($17) double w/A/C. MC, V. Amenities: Rooftop restaurant; laundry service. In room: Some w/A/C, TV, fridge.

Most of the major tourist sights are located here, making sightseeing on foot more feasible, though it’s quite a long ride from commercial Bangkok. For budget travelers, the widest range of low-price accommodations is found in this area around Khao San Road.

Inside Buddy Lodge, pub/lounge

This is the newest in what is a likely trend of more upscale, air-conditioned accommodations, like mini-hotels really, in and around the Khao San Road backpacker area. You pay a lot more than you would for the usual airless cell in the area, but you get some comforts like air-conditioning, TV, and more security. Rooms are not big, but all are new and clean, with wicker furnishings and hard, but comfy, beds. This is “party town” for young backpackers going and coming from places all over Asia, and the spill-over from crazy Khao San just out front can get pretty raucous in the echoing hallways. There is a small pool, a good little restaurant, and lots of shopping and services in the plaza at the hotel entrance or on busy Khao San out front.

265 Khao San Rd., Bangkok 10200 (on the eastern end of the Khao San strip). Tel. 0 2629-4477. Fax 02629-4744. www.buddylodge.com. 75 units. 1,500B–1,800B ($37–$45) double. MC,V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; tour desk; large adjoining shopping arcade (and busy Khao San out front); laundry. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.


A long-time “high end” favorite for Khao San, D and D has nothing to do with dungeons or dragons, but lots to do with affordable, clean, basic rooms with air-conditioning. The place is often full, and service is characterized by a calm and calculated “Next!” because the rooms are in such demand.

68-70 Khao San Rd., Phranakorn, Bangkok 10200 (right in the middle of Khao San).Tel. 0 2629-5252. Fax 02629-0529. 150 units. 600B ($15) double. Cash only. Amenities: Numerous restaurants and shopping in adjoining atrium and on the road out front; laundry. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.

A good traveler’s center, where young and old come for simplicity and proximity to the river. Prices listed are for rooms with attached bathrooms (cheaper dorms with shared toilets are also available). The place has some clean, air-conditioned concrete-block rooms (some even with views). The beds are reasonably comfortable, and the water pressure in the shower’s not bad—all in all, your basic necessities for an easy guesthouse stay. Upper level rooms mean you’ll be huffing and puffing up stairs. 

This place is not to be confused with the older Merry V. Guesthouse around the corner—this newer facility is far superior. You’re right on Phra Athit near some fun Thai live music joints and away from the tumult on Khao San. It’s also close to the Banglamphu riverboat stop.

Khao San Road, Banglamphu area, with low-price accommodations

18–20 Phra Athit Rd., Banglamphu, Bangkok 10200 (across from the Phra Athit boat pier).Tel. 0 2280-3315. 30 units. 400B ($9.10) double w/A/C; 280B ($6.35) double w/fan. No credit cards. Amenities: Coffee shop; tour desk; Internet center; lockers and baggage storage; laundry service. In room: No phone.


Near Thammasat University along the big, busy boulevard of Ratchadamnoen, the cozy Royal Hotel is just a 5-minute walk from the Royal Palace. It’s good for the budget-minded sightseers who don’t want to stay on crazy Khao San, but short of being near some of the major sites, the Royal isn’t particularly convenient for getting around Bangkok. The glitzy lobby, with polished marble floors, chandeliers, and massive modern white Corinthian columns, was built in the 1950s and is a fun architectural pastiche from the Art Deco era (the hotel gained fame as the major field hospital during the May 1991 Democracy demonstrations). Clean, kitschy rooms have lots of overly florid filigree and pink, ruffled dusters, but are spacious and have high ceilings. With a small pool and all the basic amenities, you’re just a short walk from to the useful tour services on Khao San, but it’s quiet and a bit more grown-up.

Ratchadamnoen Ave., Bangkok 10200 (2 blocks east of National Museum). Tel. 0 2222-9111. Fax 02224-2083. 300 units. 1,300B ($30) double; from 4,000B ($91) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lobby bar; outdoor pool; tour desk; car-rental desk; courtesy car or limo; salon; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming and in-house video programs, minibar.

Sure, this area is convenient for business travelers whose appointments are concentrated in nearby office buildings and banks, but if you’re here on leisure, don’t be put off by the “Business District” name, which is merely to distinguish this area from the others. There is a wide range of choices in the upper- and middle-price categories as well as some good values in the inexpensive range. It’s an easy taxi ride to the river area and a 30-minute trip to the Palace area (depending on the time of day).

Just opening at the time of this writing, and located on the site of the old YMCA, the Metropolitan is fashioned after the famed property in London and is Bangkok’s newest house of style, a haven for pop stars and wannabes. The chic, modular lobby and crisply dressed staff could easily be mistaken for the velvet rope crowd at an upscale urban club. Rooms are elegantly angular but not minimalist (minimalism is “out” of course); there are lots of warm touches like earth-toned fabrics and overstuffed pillows to offset the crisp, contemporary lines. Bathrooms are large with big sunken tubs. A stylish little getaway with some cool new fine dining choices. One to watch.

Metropolitan Hotel, Bangkok

27 South Sathorn Rd., Tungmahamek, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 (a short cab-ride from Sala Daeng BTS station, soon just a short walk to the Lumpini subway stop).Tel.0 2625-3333. Fax 02625-3300. www.metropolitan.como.bz. 171 units. 9,850B–10,600B ($240–$260) double; from 12,300B ($300) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; outdoor pool; great fitness center; spa w/massage, Jacuzzi, sauna and steam; airport transfer; business center; Internet; shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV w/DVD and CD, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.


Inside The Sukhothai, visitors find a welcome, if studied, serenity. Avoiding the hype of high-rise, the hotel’s maze of low pavilions combines crisp, contemporary lines with earthy textures and tones. Broad, colonnaded public spaces surround peaceful lotus pools. Symmetry and simplicity form the backdrop for brick chedis (stupas or mounds), terra-cotta friezes, and celadon ceramics evoking the ancient kingdom of Sukhothai. Large guest rooms carry the same signature style in fine Thai silk, mellow teak, and celadon tile. Gigantic luxurious bathrooms feature oversize bathtubs, separate shower and toilet stalls plus two full-size wardrobes. Technologically up-to-date, these smart rooms also have personal fax machines and Internet connections. The Sukhothai is second to none in excellent service and assured sense of privacy. Keep an eye out for their adjoining spa complex (under construction at the time of this writing).

The Sukhothai Hotel, Bangkok

13/3 South Sathorn Rd., Bangkok 10120 (south of Lumphini Park, near intersection of Rama IV and Wireless rds., next to the YWCA).Tel. 0 2344-8888. Fax 02287-4980. www.sukhothai.com. 220 units. 11,500B ($280) double; from 14,350B ($350) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; bar and lobby lounge; 25m (82-ft.) outdoor pool; outdoor lighted tennis court; air-conditioned racquetball court; state-of-the-art fitness center w/Jacuzzi, sauna, steam, massage, and aerobics classes; concierge; limousine service; 24-hr. business center w/cutting edge technology; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV and in-house video, fax, dataport w/direct Internet access, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.

 Dusit Thani Hotel

“The Dusit” was once Bangkok’s grandest address (and tallest building) and for more than 3 decades carried the mantle of Bangkok’s top dog. Bangkok has built around the old girl though and now the Dusit lies in the shadow of the skytrain and a hulking highway flyover, but the location is still one of the best, just at the edge of the busiest part of Silom road and a short walk from both the skytrain and soon the subway (also quiet Lumpini Park). The lobby is still grand, with splashing fountains and exotic flowers and the large outdoor pool is surrounded by thick foliage and a great escape after a day of sightseeing. Rooms are unfortunately a bit worn, but go for a superior room in the Executive Wing. A big face-lift and the old gal could be back up to speed with the many higher end properties in town. Benjarong is still a fine traditional dining experience.

946 Rama IV Rd., Bangkok 10500 (near Sala Daeng BTS station on the corner of Silom and Rama IV rds. Opposite Lumpini Park). Tel. 0 2200-9000. Fax 02236-6400. www.dusit.com. 532 units. 7,800B ($190) double; from 10,660B ($260) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 8 restaurants; lounge; bar; library w/high tea service; small landscaped pool; driving range and chipping green; fitness center; spa w/massage, sauna, steam and spa cafe; concierge; limousine service; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV w/VCR, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.


Yup, it’s the same old Holiday Inn of roadside American fame, and this Bangkok address offers fair rates and is popular for families. Comfortable guest rooms are done in tidy striped fabrics and floral prints for a soft and homelike appeal. Superior rooms in the Plaza Tower are an especially good value, though smaller than those in the Crowne Tower, which have high ceilings and a spacious feel. Deluxe rooms have fine dark wood appointments and oversize porthole windows framed by heavy drapery and overlooking the city. Bathrooms are tidy but a bit cramped. It’s just a short walk to the river (and the Shangri-La and Oriental) in one direction and a long walk to busy Silom Road in the other, and the hotel is in the middle of the gem-trade district. The large lobby seating areas are always abuzz with travelers who are either resting from a day’s adventure, or waiting to begin a new one.

Holiday Inn Silom Bangkok 

981 Silom Rd., Bangkok 10500 (1 block east of Charoen Krung Rd., or New Rd., and the river; also just a 10-min. walk to Surasak BTS station). Tel. 0 2238-4300. Fax 02238-5289. www.bangkok-silom.holiday-inn.com. 700 units. 4,300B–4,900B ($105–$120) double; from 6,800B ($165) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; small, outdoor pool; outdoor lighted tennis court; small fitness center; Jacuzzi; concierge; tour desk; limousine service; business center; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV w/in-house video, dataport, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, IDD phone.

The Montien is a slick and comfortable business hotel in the very heart of Silom, right at the terminus of the two busy Patpong Sois. Set up in two large wings, each with dark teak hallways and bright, pleasant rooms, the Montien has seen some good upgrades in recent years and offers lots of services and upmarket amenities at a cost that puts you in a dull cell in other parts of the world. Unique here, too, are the resident psychics at the mezzanine level’s Astrologer’s Terrace, open daily from 10:30am to 7pm. A glimpse at your future is just 500B ($12).

Pool in Motien Hotel

54 Surawong Rd., Bangkok 10500 (near Patpong).Tel. 0 2233-7060. Fax 02236-5218. www.montien.com. 475 units. 5,500B–7,600B ($134–$185) double; from 9,000B ($220) suite. AE, DC, MC,V. 10-min. walk to Sala Daeng BTS station. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; lounge and karaoke; outdoor pool; fitness center w/sauna; tour desk; limousine service; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.

This bright old standby, a 5-minute walk from the river and the famed Oriental, has a glitzy glass-and-stone lobby that faces a small indoor swimming pool. Guest rooms are compact and rather dimly lit but the hotel has a full range of amenities. Often booked-out by European tours.

412 Surawong Rd., Bangkok 10500 (between Charoen Krung [New Rd.] and Mahesak Rd.).Tel. 0 2234-5070. Fax 02237-7662. 250 units. 2,400B–2,600B ($55–$59) double. AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; pool; small fitness center w/massage; tour desk; business center; salon; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.

Just a short walk west of the Chong Nonsi stop of the sky-train (and not far from busy Silom Rd.), Narai Hotel is a clean, comfortable business standard and popular with tour groups. There’s nothing particularly stylish about the staid lobby and dull but adequate rooms, but everything works and service is efficient. If it’s style you want, step just next door to their newest venture, a cool little boutique hideaway called the Triple Two (referring to the Silom street address). Rooms here are ultra-chic, done with silk appointments and traditional Thai fixtures that provide good contrast with the clean, ultra-modern lines. The hotels share amenities like the large pool and a small fitness area. Triple Two has a great indoor-outdoor dining venue, and Narai has lots of shopping and dining options.

222 Silom Rd. Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 (just east of Chong Nonsi BTS station).Tel. 0 2237-0100. Fax 02236-7161. www.narai.com. 469 units. 2,700B–4,000B ($66–$97) double; from 5,000B ($122) suite. AE, MC,V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; bar and lounge; outdoor pool; small fitness center; car rental; business center w/Internet; shopping arcade (jewelry); 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.

Silom area, with many of moderate-price hotels

222 Silom Rd. Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 (just east of Chong Nonsi BTS station). Tel. 0 2627-2222. Fax 02627-2300. www.tripletwosilom.com. 75 units. 5,200B ($127) double; 6,000B ($146) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; shared facilities w/adjoining Narai Hotel (pool and so on); 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV w/DVD player, dataport, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.

A wholesome yin to the  debaucherous yang of the nearby red-light district, the Bangkok Christian Guesthouse is on a small soi just one street back from Sala Daeng BTS station and is a convenient, quiet, and comfortable choice (just a short walk from sin to salvation, or viceversa). This tranquil two-story guesthouse, originally a Presbyterian missionary residence, was converted into a lodge in the late 1960s, and is now operated by the Church of Christ in Thailand. Large, recently refurbished rooms are simple.

Bangkok Christian Guesthouse

The best rooms are on the second floor overlooking the large lawn with its sitting area, goldfish pond, and teak pavilion. There’s a large, cozy lounge and library, an affordable canteen restaurant, and a friendly and helpful staff.

123 Saladaeng, Soi 2, Convent Rd., Bangkok 10500 (1 block south of Silom Rd. off the corner of Convent Rd. Near Sala Daeng BTS station). Tel. 0 2233-6303. Fax 02237-1742. 30 units. 1,000B–1,400B ($24–$34) double; 1,800B ($44) triple; 2,200B ($54) quad. No credit cards. 10-min. walk to Sala Daeng BTS station. Amenities: Restaurant; laundry service. In room: A/C, no phone.

Inside Suriwongse Tower Inn

This establishment is difficult to find because it’s on the 14th to 18th floors of the modern Executive House condominium tower, in a cul-de-sac off noisy Suriwong Road. It’s a good value for families who will appreciate its oversize rooms (formerly apartments) with small balconies, some with great river views, well-kept bathrooms, and simple, eclectic international modern furnishings. Though it’s well maintained, with a nice staff and a small coffee shop on the ground floor, some of the rooms are a bit bleak, so check yours out before accepting it. Executive House Building, 410/3–4 Suriwong Rd., Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 (between Charoen Krung [New Rd.] and Mahesak Rd.).Tel. 0 2353-6999. Fax 02353-6944. 80 units. 1,350B ($31) double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurants; lounge and karaoke; fitness center; Jacuzzi; sauna; tour desk; business center; limited room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar.

Trinity Silom Hotel 

The hotel itself is small but has good services and is a good location for the price. Guest rooms feature floral pattern prints and dark wood headboards for a homey feeling. The staff is charming, friendly, and helpful. What sets the Trinity apart is its location within the Trinity Complex, a convenient shopping area. Easy access to both the Silom Road business and shopping activity and the skytrain make this a good choice in this class for both comfort and convenience.

425/15 Silom Soi 5, Bangkok 10500 (behind Bangkok Bank, 2 short blocks south of Silom Rd. on Soi 5, near Patpong). Tel. 0 2164-1001-7 or 0 2673-3107-9. Fax 0 2164-1010. 104 units. 1,700B–2,300B ($42–$56) double; from 2,500B ($61) suite. AE, MC, V. 5-min. walk to Chong Nonsi BTS station. Amenities: Accessible to all guests within the Trinity Complex building: 4 restaurants; outdoor pool; outdoor lighted tennis court; fitness center w/sauna and massage; business center; limited room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.

 Accessed along its entire length by the convenient skytrain, Sukhumvit Road is the heart of upscale, commercial Bangkok. Here you’ll find many of the town’s finest large shopping complexes and restaurants, as well as busy street-side shopping and dining stalls. Many businesses now house offices in the numbered side streets, called sois, that extend from this main thoroughfare and tourists as well as business travelers will find this the most convenient location with many comfortable hotel options. There are few good budget choices (much better than busy and inconvenient Khao San Rd.) and direct access to the BTS skytrain means you can get anywhere you need to go in town at any time of day.

Keep an eye out for the Bangkok’s newest hotels, both under construction at the time of this writing: The former Hilton at Lai Nert will reopen in 2004 as the latest member of the Raffles chain (Tel. 0 2253-0123), and, the former Intercontinental Hotel, adjacent to Siam Center, will be the Paragon. Both provide five-star luxury in the heart of town.

Siam, the skytrain’s main hub and center of the shopping area is pronounced with a long “see” instead of “sigh.” Say “See-yam” if you want to tell the taxi driver how to get to the area.

New on the scene, the Conrad rises out of a large shopping compound in the area just adjacent to the U.S. Embassy. The hotel is Bangkok’s hippest house of style, a medley of angular and austere as well as rounded edges and rich, earthy colors: distinctly Asian, contemporary, luxurious, and chic. Rooms are compact and finely appointed with every modern convenience alongside Thai touches like Dong San Drums for coffee tables and Thai artwork. Baths have freestanding tubs and are done in granite, marble, and glass, some with large sliders so the tubs can open to sleeping areas. Service is over the top. The ultra-chic lobby is often full of partners from the adjoining Diplomat Bar as well as “87,” the hotels club and the latest place to see and be seen in town. They host many conventions and are one of the best business standards in town. All Seasons Place, the adjoining mall, hosts high-end shops.

All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Rd., Bangkok (just across from the US Embassy).Tel. 0 2690-9999. Fax 02690-9000. 392 units. 9,850B–12,500B ($240–$305) double; from 16,400B ($400) suite. AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 2 bars; large outdoor pool; 2 lighted tennis courts; outdoor running track; tip-top fitness center; spa w/massage, Jacuzzi, sauna, steam; concierge; tour desk; car rental; business center w/Internet; set in a large, high-end shopping complex (All Seasons Place); salon; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry/dry cleaning; nonsmoking floors; executive check-in; large meeting and banquet facilities. In room: A/C, satellite TV, fax and dataport, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.

Only recently rebranded as a Four Seasons Property (formerly the Regent), this hotel is a modern palace. The entry is grand and the eye is led to the sweeping staircase, giant Thai murals, and gold sunbursts on the vaulted ceiling. The impeccable service begins at the threshold, and an air of luxury pervades any stay in this modern city resort. Rooms are some of the largest in town and feature traditional-style Thai murals, handsome color schemes, and plush carpeted dressing areas next to each large tiled bath. The more expensive rooms have a view of the Royal Bangkok Sport Club and racetrack.

Cabana rooms and suites face the large pool and terrace area, which is filled with palms, lotus pools, and all sorts of tropical greenery. If you can ignore the new condominium blocks overlooking the area, it is a real hideaway. The Four Seasons has one of the finest hotel spas in Bangkok, and their Spice Market as well as Biscotti restaurants merit a visit even if you don’t stay here (see “Where to Dine” later in this chapter). There are fine executive services (a 24-hr. lounge area with business center and buffet) available to all room standards for an upgrade of just 1,435B ($35). Close to the center of town and the Ratchadamri skytrain stop, you can get anywhere from here (though you may not want to leave).

155 Ratchadamri Rd., Bangkok 10330 (adjacent to Ratchadamri BTS station, just south of Rama I Rd.).Tel. 0 2251-6127. Fax 02253-9195. www.fourseasons.com. 358 units. 11,500B–12,300B ($280–$300) double; 17,200B–20,000B ($420–$490) cabana room/suite; from 15,500B ($380) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 7 restaurants; lobby lounge serving high tea and live jazz; landscaped outdoor pool; state-of-the-art fitness center; spa w/massage, sauna, and steam; concierge; limousine service; 24-hr. business center; shopping arcade (w/Jim Thompson Silk); salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms; meeting rooms. In room: A/C; satellite TV, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.


Bangkok’s old grand dame and where many of the delegates of the 2003 APEC conference called home, the Grand Hyatt is in the best location in town and is tops in comfort, convenience, and style. Don’t miss the hotel shrine, a monument to prosperity and good luck dating from the 1956 construction of the hotel (see the sidebar, “Erawan Shrine,” in “The Wats,” in chapter 5). The hotel layout is on a grand scale with giant columns and balustrade staircases reminiscent of colonial architecture. The lobby and its lush indoor landscaping is a perfect setting for afternoon tea and worthy of a visit in and of itself. The works of dozens of contemporary Thai artists grace hallways and spacious rooms, where earth-toned silks, celadon accessories, antique-finish furnishings, parquet floors, Oriental rugs, large bathrooms, and city views abound. Rooms have just been given a technological upgrade and now feature individual reading lights, Internet access, and compact control panels. In addition to the facilities one expects from a five-star hotel, there is a delightful fifth-floor pool terrace, where a waterfall tumbles down a rocky wall into a full-size hot tub. Their in-house dining is some of the best in the city: Try Spasso for great Italian (see “Where to Dine” later in this chapter). 

Grand Hyatt Erawan

494 Ratchadamri Rd., Bangkok 10330 (corner of Rama I Rd.).Tel. 800/233-1234 or 02254-1234. Fax 02254-6308. www.hyatt.com. 387 units. 11,500B–12,500B ($280–$305) double; from 19,700B ($480) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. 5-min. walk to Chit Lom BTS station. Amenities: 8 restaurants; lounge, disco, and wine bar; rooftop pool and garden; outdoor grass tennis court; 2 squash courts; fitness center w/Jacuzzi, sauna, steam, and massage; spa; concierge; tour desk; limousine and helicopter service; 24-hr. business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executivelevel rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, safe.

Formerly the Le Meridien, the new Intercontinental has a great location near Chit Lom BTS Station and downtown shopping. Rooms are immaculate, done in a bland but familiar high-end business hotel and set in a glass and steel tower block with unobstructed views of the city. You pay a premium here, but you get perks like wireless Internet, excellent services, and fine dining; don’t miss their branch of the popular Shin Daikoku Japanese restaurant (see “Where to Dine,” later in this chapter).

973 Ploenchit Rd., Lumphini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330 (adjacent to Chit Lom BTS station, near intersection of Rama I and Ratchadamri rds.).Tel. 800/225-5843 or 02656-0444. Fax 02656-0555. www.lemeridienbangkok.com. 381 units. 9,850B–11,000B ($240–$270) double; from 11,900B ($290) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; tower lounge w/live music daily; karaoke; outdoor pools; fitness centers; spa w/Jacuzzi, sauna, steam, massage, and beauty treatments; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.

Just cattycornered to one another along busy Sukhumvit near the Asok BTS skytrain station, these sister brand properties are both luxurious, efficient and convenient. There is a certain formulaic quality to these two chains, but it is a high-end formula and quite comfortable and familiar. Each tower room is nicely appointed, and the beds are the most comfortable in Thailand, hands down. The Sheraton Grande is the more luxurious of the two and has more upmarket style and popular fine dining choices that appeal to the discerning. The Sheraton’s 10th floor pool will make you think you’ve been airlifted to the islands. Across the street, the Westin begins on the seventh floor above the popular Robinson’s department store and is a more affordable but similarly comfortable choice. Though the hotels are a bit removed from the city center, direct skytrain access means that the city is at your disposal.

Sheraton Grande: 250 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 12 and 14).Tel. 0 2653-0333. Fax 02653-0400. 445 units. 10,250B–11,900B ($250–$290) double; from 18,500B ($450) suite. AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; bar; jazz club; outdoor pool; fine fitness center; spa w/Jacuzzi, sauna and hydrotherapy; concierge; tour desk; car rental; business center w/Internet; shopping; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry/dry cleaning; nonsmoking floors. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, safe, IDD phone.

Westin Grande: 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Bangkok 1011.Tel. 0 2651-1000. Fax 02255-2441. 364 units. 6,150B–8,200B ($150–$200) double; from 11,900B ($290) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; karaoke; outdoor pool; fitness center; concierge; tour desk; car rental; limo service; business center w/Internet; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.

Right in the heart of the busy Nana area of Sukhumvit Road (near the BTS Nana station), the city’s best shopping and dining options are at your disposal from the Amari Boulevard and the nearby Watergate (Tel. 0 2653-9000) is a real upscale gem, the crowning jewel of the popular Amari chain in Thailand. The Boulevard offers an excellent facility at good value and the newer Krung Thep Wing has spacious rooms with terrific city views, while the original wing has attractive balconied rooms that are a better value. When rooms are discounted 40% to 60% in the low season, this hotel is a very good bargain.

Amari Boulevard Hotel

2 Soi 5, Sukhumvit Rd., Bangkok 10110 (north of Sukhumvit Rd., on Soi 5). Tel.  0 2255-2930. Fax 0 2255-2950. www.amari.com. 315 units. 6,800B–8,400B ($165–$205) double; from 8,800B ($215) suite. AE, DC,

MC, V. 5-min. walk to Nana BTS station. Amenities: Restaurant; rooftop pool; fitness center; concierge; tour desk; limousine service; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.

This elegant and opulent high-rise hotel in the Siam Square shopping area is one of this French chain’s best. The marble and glass entrance leads to an expansive gray stone interior, complemented by soft leatherupholstered sofas and chairs. Pastel tones carry over into guest quarters, where the rooms are spacious and fully equipped. Novotel is perfect for business or shopping trips and close to the skytrain. Don’t miss their popular disco.

Siam Square Soi 6, Bangkok 10330 (in Siam Square off Rama I Rd.).Tel. 0 2255-6888. Fax 02254-1328. 465 units. 5,100B–6,300B ($124–$154) double; from 7,200B ($175) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Siam BTS station. Amenities: 4 restaurants; huge popular disco; outdoor pool; fitness center w/massage; concierge; tour desk;

limousine service; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge,

safe, IDD phone.

With a second floor connection directly to the skytrain (just one stop away from the central Siam station), Asia Hotel wins out over others in this category by virtue of location and affordability, but certainly not for style. The lobby is always busy with tour groups but has a worn feel, an old Chinese-style hotel that needs a face-lift really. With the skytrain station hovering above and a covered parking lot in front, you’ll feel as if you’ve entered a cave. However, its location, near the main shopping boulevard housing Bangkok’s best and largest shopping malls, Asia’s also not too far from historic attractions. The lobby’s got some nice Thai decorative touches, but the rooms are like an American motel room though clean and well maintained. Five restaurants serve up everything from standard Chinese to Vietnamese—even Brazilian. But you’re so close to the cafes of Rama I, you probably won’t hang around the hotel too much.

296 Phayathai Rd., Bangkok 10400 (between Petchaburi and Rama I rds. w/direct BTS access at Ratchathewi).Tel. 0 2215-0808. Fax 02215-4360. www.asiahotel.co.th. 650 units. 1,800B–3,600B ($44–$82) double; from5,000B ($114) suite. AE, MC, V. Ratchathewi BTS station. Amenities: 5 restaurants; lobby lounge; 2 outdoor pools; small fitness center w/Jacuzzi, sauna, and massage; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar.

Budget-watchers will appreciate the two small, spiffy City Lodges. Both the newer lodge on Soi 9, and its nearby cousin, the older, 35-room City Lodge on Soi 19 (Tel. 0 2254-4783; fax 02255-7340), provide clean, compact rooms with simple, modern decor. Each has a pleasant coffee shop (facing the bustle on Sukhumvit Rd. at Soi 9; serving Italian fare on Soi 19) and facility-sharing privileges at the more deluxe Amari Boulevard Hotel on Soi 5 (see above). Rooms are large, with some major furniture mismatching going on, but are clean and not musty. No frills here, but still a lot of comfort for your money.

137/1–3 Sukhumvit Soi 9, Bangkok 10110 (corner of Sukhumvit and Soi 9).Tel. 0 2253-7705 (also at Soi 19 '02254-4783). Fax 02255-4667. 28 units. 1,500B–2,200B ($36–$54) double. MC, V. Nana or Asok BTS stations. Amenities: Excellent coffee shop; access to Amari Boulevard’s rooftop pool, fitness center, and business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.

This excellent hotel offers luxury without pretension and a good location—near Chitralada Palace, the Royal Turf Club, the Marble Wat, and Dusit Zoo, yet convenient to the business, government, and shopping districts, as well as the expressway to the airport. Rooms are large, comfortable, and tastefully decorated in muted colors—for a restful retreat after a demanding day of sightseeing or business. Executive suites feature a living room or an in-room office with fax and computer connections, spacious bathrooms with separate showers, and butler service.

477 Si Ayuthaya Rd., Bangkok 10400 (near intersection w/Phayathai Rd., across from Suan Pakkard Palace).Tel. 800/223-5652 or 02247-0123. Fax 02247-0178. 515 units. 4,500B ($109) double; from 5,500B ($134) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. 10-min. walk to Ratchathewi BTS station. Amenities: 4 restaurants; lounge; outdoor pool; fitness center w/Jacuzzi, sauna, massage, and aerobics; concierge; tour desk; limousine service; business center; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.

This modern white tower rises above a quiet soi in a neighborhood that’s convenient to Sukhumvit shopping and dining and close to the skytrain at Asok station (which means the city is your oyster). The staff is attentive and helpful and the carpeted rooms have comfortable sitting areas and city views and all the facilities you’d expect from a more expensive hotel. The excellent coffee shop has bargain buffet breakfasts and lunches. A good value.

25 Sukhumvit Soi 23, Bangkok 10110 (1 block north of Sukhumvit Rd. on Soi 23). Tel. 02260-9888. Fax 02259-7908. www.tai-pan.com. 150 units. 2,400B–2,800B ($58–$68) double; from 5,000B ($122) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. 10-min. walk to Asok BTS station. Amenities: Coffee shop; small pool; small fitness center; business center; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, IDD phone.

A great budget choice, the Atlanta is chock-full of history and atmosphere. The oldest “original” hotel in the city (without renovation) and the first in Bangkok to have a swimming pool, the Atlanta was built in 1952 by Dr. Max Henne, a renaissance man and early expat. The hotel is now managed by his son, Charles. For years was the foreigner visitor’s address of note in Bangkok. If you don’t believe it, have a look at the photo in the canteen of a young King Bhumibol playing saxophone along with a trumpeting Louis Armstrong and Benny Goodman on clarinet, while a grinning George Bush Sr. looks on from the background. Surreal. The lobby is original Art Deco and quite unique with leatherette sofas, low, angular furnishings, and a grand winding staircase. The dining area serves great Thai treats and features a small library and occasional film screenings. The pool area is cozy, and the hotel has a good travel service. Rooms are concrete basic and only a few suites have hot water. Service is quirky (there is even a sign that jokingly explains the surly front desk policy:

Inside Atlanta Hotel

NO COMPLAINTS AT THESE PRICES) but that’s part of the charm. The hotel likes to support visiting artists and writers, even accepts grant applications for fellowship stays, and the works of journalists and photographers in residence line the walls. They have a good “no drugs and no sex tourism” policy. The location is convenient to town, at the far end of a Sukhumvit Soi 2 just a 10-minute walk to Sukhumvit and the skytrain. They are often full so it’s best to reserve by fax. Popular for long stays.

78 Soi 2 Sukhumvit Rd., Bangkok 10110 (at the very end of Soi 2, a 5-min. walk or a 10B/25¢motorbike taxi ride).Tel. 0 2252-6069 or 0 2252-1650. Fax 0 2656-8123-4. 49 units. 330B–450B ($8–$11) fan room; 500B–620B ($12–$15) A/C double. Cash only. Amenities: Restaurant; small outdoor pool; small gym area; tour desk; Internet corner; library (w/light table for photographers); laundry service. In room: A/C, safe (bring your own lock).

Just a stone’s throw from the skytrain, the Reno is the best of many down the small quiet road, Soi Kasemson, near the National Stadium stop of the skytrain and close to Siam at the city center: a convenient and popular little budget enclave. Reno is nothing special, even with a recent face-lift offers just basic rooms and limited services—but they do have a nice little coffee shop and Internet nook, and the price is right so they’re often full (if so try any along the road and expect to pay as little as 500B/ $12).

40 Soi Kasemson 1, Rama 1 Rd., Bangkok. Tel. 0 2215-0026. Fax 02215-3430. 50 units. 840B–1,180B ($21–$28) double; from 1,300B ($32) suite. MC, V. Amenities: Coffee shop; outdoor pool; tour desk; Internet; laundry. In room: A/C, upper standards have TV.


For budget convenience in Bangkok, Suk 11 finds few rivals. With convenient access to the skytrain at Nana and prices more befitting the budget spots on Khao San Road, this family-owned gem is often fully booked so call ahead (or book on their useful website). Rooms are basic: just plain linoleum floors and large beds in double rooms. Bathrooms are small, the shower-in-room variety, but clean. They have rooms with shared bathrooms for very little, but the single and double rooms with bathroom are the best bet. The hotel was recently refurbished and the common areas and hallways are done in a faux rustic style with wood-plank floors and are meant to look like old Thai streets. There are some quiet sitting areas and even a yoga room. It’s a popular spot for folks studying Thai massage and a friendly comraderie pervades. A healthy Thai buffet breakfast is included and the staff couldn’t be more friendly.

1/13 Soi Sukhumvit 11 (behind 7-Eleven) Sukhumvit Rd., Bangkok 10110. Tel. 0 2253-5927. www.suk11.com. 75 units. 500B (US$12) single; 600B (US$14) double. Cash only. Amenities: Restaurant; game-room; laundry; yoga room; Internet terminals; library. In room: A/C.

Don Muang International Airport is anywhere from 30 minutes to 1 hour (or more) by car from the center of Bangkok depending on your destination and traffic. Traffic is lighter going into town in the evening, but if you have just a quick overnight or a long layover, there are a few good choices near the airport.

This is the fanciest, the closest, and, if the budget is less of a concern, the best of all choices near the airport. An overpass connects the Amari with the international terminal (domestic is just a short shuttle ride away). For those wanting to pop into the city briefly, there’s a shuttle bus that runs regularly to Ploenchit Road in the heart of Bangkok’s shopping district. The Airport Hotel has arrival and departure information monitors in the lobby and offers discount rates for “ministay” packages if you have a longer layover and want to shower and relax for a few hours. Spacious deluxe rooms have fine furnishings and are as cozy as any city business hotel.

333 Chert Wudthakas Rd., Don Muang, Bangkok 10210 (just west of international terminal, connected by an elevated footbridge). Tel. 0 2566-1020. Fax 02566-1941. www.amari.com. 434 units. 10,600B–11,500B ($259–$282) double; from 20,500B ($500) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar and lounge; outdoor pool; golf course nearby; fitness center w/sauna, massage, and spa; tour desk; limousine service; business center; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.

While the Amari is without a doubt your most deluxe choice at the airport, you might not want to spend a wad for a 1-night layover. The Asia airport, like the Asia Hotel in town (see above), has good facilities for the price. Basic rooms have comfy beds and newer furnishings. The hotel adjoins the Zeer Rangsit Shopping Center, with dining and shopping, bowling, ice-skating, snooker, and cinemas. Most excellent.

99/2 Moo 8 Phaholyothin Rd., Lamlukka, Pathumthani 12130 (3km/2 miles from Don Muang International Airport).Tel. 0 2992-6999. Fax 02532-3193. www.asiahotel.co.th. 550 units. 3,200B–3,600B ($78–$88) double; from 5,000B ($122) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Coffee shop; lobby lounge; outdoor pool; fitness center and game room; airline ticketing desk; limousine service; free airport transfers; Internet center; shopping mall adjoining; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, IDD phone.

As in most cities, the area around the train station is not what you’d call idyllic. Tuk-tuks and taxis are available around the clock to take you to any hotel in town, but in a pinch try the Bangkok Center Hotel (328 Rama IV Rd; 2 blocks east of the station; Tel.  0 2238-4848), a large but basic business hotel with rooms starting at 1,000B ($24). Krung Kasem Sri Krung Hotel (1860 Krung Kasem Rd., Bangkok; Tel. 0 2225-0132) is a budget stop just to the right and across the canal from the station. Very basic rooms start at 550B ($13).

If you like your local Thai restaurant back home (and Thai cuisine is represented in so many places now), you’ll love the many choices in Bangkok, from simple noodle stands to sophisticated, upmarket joints. Prices are reasonable, and you’ll be hard-pressed to spend more than 1,640B ($40) for two at some of the town’s finest restaurants. The city also offers a spectacular array of excellent European, Chinese, and other Asian cuisine that is expensive by local standards but a bargain compared to back home. Bangkok hotels are famous for hosting world-renowned chefs, so grab a local paper or one of the many city magazines like Metro (at bookstores and newsstands) to find out about any fun foodie events. You will not go hungry in the Big Mango and the adventurous will wander off the beaten track to smaller street-side eateries and the best authentic Thai.

Le Normandie

The ultra-elegant Normandie, atop the renowned Oriental Hotel, with panoramic views of Thonburi and the Chao Phraya River, is the apex in formal dining in Thailand, both in price and quality. The room glistens in gold and silver, from place settings to chandeliers, and the warm tones of golden silks impart a delicious glow. Some of the highest rated master chefs from France have made guest appearances at Normandie, adding their own unique touches to the menu. The menu features a limited selection of daily specials, with classic selections such as pan-fried goose liver, followed by a pan-fried turbot with potato and leek in a parsley sauce. The beef filet main course, in a red wine sauce, is divine. The set also includes cheese, coffee, and a sinful dessert. Order any wine you can imagine from their extensive list. The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave. (off Charoen Krung [New Rd.], overlooking the river). Tel. 0 2659-9000. Reservations required at least 1 day in advance. Jacket/tie required for men. Main courses 1,000B–1,600B ($24–$39); set menu with wine selections 5,200B ($118). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm and 7–10pm; closed Sun lunch. 10-min. walk from Saphan Taksin BTS station.

Etc. . .  WORLD CUISINE Set up in two hot and cold “stages,” buffet areas featuring small portions, specialty items, and various stations with cookedto-order entrees, “Etc . . .” features a fine international selection in their daily temptation bars and a la carte dining: from dim-sum to sushi, wood-fire pizzas and pasta pies to tandoori and fine Thai and Western desserts. The chic, minimalist dining room looks over the busy riverside. In the Sheraton Royal Orchid, 2 Captain Bush Lane, Siphya Rd., Bangkok 10500 (next to River City Mall). Tel. 0 2266-0123. Main courses 180B–450B ($4.40–$11). AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.

Salathip, Thai restaurant

Salathip, on the river terrace of the Shangri-La Hotel, is arguably Bangkok’s most romantic Thai restaurant. Classical music and traditional cuisine are superbly presented under aging, carved teak pavilions perched over a lotus pond and overlooking the river (there are also air-conditioned dining rooms). Dishes are skillfully prepared and presented artfully. Set menus are a good initiation into Thai cuisine and feature a range of courses. Here’s an example: Thai spring rolls, pomelo salad with chicken, a spicy seafood soup, snapper with chili sauce, and your choice of Thai curries. There is live music nightly as well as Thai dancing and a culture show.

Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu (overlooking Chao Phraya River, near Taksin Bridge).    Tel.  0 2236-7777. Reservations recommended. Main courses 200B–450B ($4.55–$10). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6:30–10:30pm.

Saphan Taksin BTS station.

A nice little find, Harmonique is set in the courtyard of a century-old mansion and just oozes character. A great stop if touring the riverfront or visiting the antiques stores of nearby River City by day. You enter Harmonique through the crook of a dangling banyan tree, and there is courtyard seating as well as small open-air dining areas, each like a small museum of Thai antiques. The cuisine is Thai, tailored to Western tastes, but it’s all still very good—the tom yam with fish is delicious, served only as spicy as you like and with enormous chunks of fish. The sizzling grilled seafood platter is nice and garlicky (chilis on the side). They also feature good Western desserts like brownies, great with a cool tea on a hot day and an atmospheric spot to relax.

22 Chaoren Krung (New Rd.) Soi 34. Tel. 0 2630-6270. Main courses 70B–200B ($1.70–$4.90). AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm. 15-min. walk from Saphan Taksin BTS station.


Mr. Cha Cha, the original owner and proprietor (now deceased) was on Lord Mountbatten’s staff in India before he went on to cook for the diplomatic corps in Laos. This, the original restaurant, was built in 1980, and there are now three locations in greater Bangkok run by his children. House specialties include a mutton barbecue, chicken tikka, and chicken masala. The Indian thali plates (a large plate with a variety of items to sample—similar to an appetizer plate) are great, especially for lunch. The atmosphere is a bit bland, but the curries are good. Try their other locations: on Sukhumvit Soi 35 (near Phrom Pong BTS) Tel. 0 2258-8843 or on Convent Road in Silom (near the Sala Daeng BTS station; Tel. 0 2238-1478).

1229/11 Charoen Krung Rd. (on a side street off Charoen Krung [New Rd.], corner of Surawong). Tel. 0 2235-1569. Main courses 58B–235B ($2–$5.75). AE, DC, MC,V. Daily 11am–3:30pm and 6–10:30pm. 15-min. walk from Saphan Taksin BTS station.

Khao San Road is Bangkok’s busy backpacker ghetto and where you’ll find every manner of food, from Israeli and halal cuisine to Italian as well as tasty Thai food served at street-side (and McDonald’s). Avoid the budget guesthouses serving bland versions of Western food, but do have a seat somewhere along the busy road, order up a fruit shake, and watch the nightly parade of young travelers. Below are a few good choices near Khao San.


For ambience alone, the Kaloang Home Kitchen is a favorite. This riverside cafe, overlooking the Royal Yacht Pier and adjoining a lovely residential neighborhood, is as authentically Thai as any you’ll find in the capital. Make sure you ask about their daily specials and try specialties like yam paduk fu (a salad of roasted catfish whipped into a foam and fried), sam lee (fish with mango), and marinated chicken. Portions are generous. There are two separate dining areas: a covered wooden pier set with simple outdoor furniture and a retired wooden boat that holds about 10 small tables. It may require patience to hunt this one down (north of Banglampu), but you’ll be rewarded with a memorable off-the-beaten-tourist-track experience. The restaurant sometimes requires men to wear sport coats.

2 Soi Wat Thevarajkunchorn, Si Ayutthaya Rd. (behind the National Library. Go down Sri Ayutthaya Rd., cross Samsen Rd., turn left then right to the river). Tel. 0 2281-9228 or 0 2282-7581. Reservations required for boat tables only. Main courses 70B–200B ($1.70–$4.90). AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.

Find this place. It’s my favorite restaurant in Thailand. Don’t come for atmosphere—it’s more or less tables in a little alleyway—but bring your appetite for healthy and delicious Thai vegetarian dishes. Ms. May (pronounced My) has developed a real following, as much for her wry smile and kindness as for the great curries and soups she serves. The best massaman curry in Thailand and an array of dishes from sweet green curry to good stir-fries come with your choice of white or a unique short-grained brown rice. For dessert, don’t pass-up the black sticky-rice with mango. May has a good cookbook for sale and also offers cooking classes. At the eastern terminus of Khao San Rd. in a small alley behind the first row of buildings (behind Burger King in fact; ask around—everyone knows this place) tel. 0 2629-4839. Main course 60B–120B ($1.50–$3.65). Cash only. Daily 7am–10pm.

Silom road is where you’ll find Patpong, the busy red-light district, and tourist night market. It’s also a good place for familiar fare, from McDonald’s to small coffee shops, as well as good street-side dining (see “Tips on Dining: Bangkok Street Eats” below) and some good, upscale, and atmospheric eateries.

You’ll want to get dressed up for this elegant dining room, named for the exquisite five-color pottery once reserved exclusively for the royal family. Benjarong’s fine Thai cuisine focuses on the five basic flavors of Thai cooking (salty, bitter, hot, sweet, and sour) in traditional “royal” dishes. While their a la carte menu is extensive, the most popular dishes are the sweet red curry crab claws and the exotic grilled fish with black beans in banana leaves. The illustrated menu will help you navigate your way through the choices and whet your appetite. For after-dinner treats, the kong wan is an ornate selection of typical Thai desserts—distinctive, light, and not too sweet. The Dusit Thani, Rama IV Rd. (corner of Silom Rd. and Rama IV Rd.).Tel. 0 2236-0450. Reservations recommended. Main courses 180B–600B ($4.10–$14). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6:30–10:30pm; closed for lunch Sat–Sun. Sala Daeng BTS station.

Anna’s Café, named for the governess-cum-cultural diplomat of “Anna and the King” fame, is a great hideaway just a short walk from busy Silom. Anna’s serves good Thai and familiar Western cuisine, a comfortable choice all around. I had a green curry with chicken, not too spicy and not too expensive, and the cool courtyard was just the right place to rest from the city heat. In the evening, it’s all candlelight and romance.

114 Soi Saladaeng, Silom Rd., Bangkok (off Silom Rd. near Saladaeng BTS station) tel. 0 2632-0623. Main courses 90B–230B ($2.20–$5.60) AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.


A happenin’ bar as much as anything, Barbican also serves good pasta entrees, goulash, and a tasty “Guiness pie.” Everything on the menu is good, and the atmosphere is a cool, steel and granite chic. The place is full at happy hour, and there are often live jazz acts.

9/4–5 Soi Thaniya, Silom Rd. (1 block east of Patpong between Silom and Surawong rds.).Tel. 0 2234-3590. Reservations not necessary. Main courses from 120B ($2.90). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2am. Sala Daeng BTS station.

More art cafe than restaurant, Eat Me is all about exposed industrial beams, dark wood, and indirect lighting on walls of an ever-changing exhibition space. They serve light Thai meals, rich and delicious desserts, and good coffee. There’s an air-conditioned room, but go for the cozy balcony couch or the tables overlooking a small courtyard. A good, quiet place to get downright metaphysical with that special someone.
Soi Pipat 2, a small street off of Convent Rd. just south of Silom Rd. in  the Patpong area. Tel. 0 2238-0931. Main courses 75B–480B ($1.80–$12). MC, V. Daily 3pm–1am.

Ask any Bangkokian to take you to their favorite restaurant and you’ll most likely be eating at street-side or in a small, open-air joint. There are some world-class restaurants in the Big Mango, especially in the big hotels, and the town’s many Thai-Western fusion restaurants are all the rage, but for good, authentic Thai in Bangkok, as in most areas of the country, the many night bazaars and hawker stalls are where you’ll find the best eats. Eating at street-side will challenge your senses with the pungent aromas of garlic, chili, and barbecued meats as well as the cacophony of music, lights, and voices at Thai open-air eateries. For the best open-air dining, try the few below:

The Eurpean luxury cars that roll up late at night to pickup take-out orders tells you something about this place. Adjacent to the Tong Lo BTS stop (on the right side as you get off when traveling east/from Siam) you wander around the many open-air stalls, choosing what you want (anything from fried oyster pancakes to a great seafood salad) and then pick a table and sit down. The shop owners miraculously figure out a bill for you (and are always bang-on). The best street eats in town.

Suan Lum Seafood, one of street-side eating

Just next to Lumpini Park, this sprawling shopping compound also features a grand, open-air food court. Buy coupons for food (about 100B/$2.45 will do it) and choose from the many stalls. Beer hostesses sling the suds, and there is a large central stage with Thai rock bands playing Western cover tunes nightly.

Here’s a find. A short ride on the skytrain from Siam brings you to Victory Monument. Exit the right side of the station and walk back toward Siam. Rang Nar is the first left and the street is lined with open-air carts and small, storefront restaurants serving authentic Isan (northeastern) fare of sticky rice accompanied by barbecued meat dishes and spicy papaya salad. Try Tee Sud Isan Inter (4/11-12 Soi Rang Nam; Tel. 0 2245-3665) among the many.

In a lovely 80-year-old Siamese restaurant house with its own tropical garden, Mango Tree offers a quiet retreat from the hectic Patpong area. Live traditional music and classical Thai decorative touches fill the house with charm, and the attentive staff serves well-prepared dishes from all regions of the country. Their mild, green chicken curry and their crispy spring rolls are both excellent—but the menu is extensive, so feel free to experiment. Only trouble is, the food isn’t exactly authentic, but it’s still quite good.

37 Soi Tantawan, Bangrak (off west end of Surawong Rd., across from Tawana Ramada Hotel). Tel. 0 2236-2820. Reservations recommended. Main courses 90B–350B ($2.20–$8.50). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–12am. 10-min. walk from Sala Daeng BTS station.

Edith Tai’s Silver Palace, in newer and larger quarters, is still one of Bangkok’s best and most attractive Cantonese restaurants. Its warm, elegant dining room is furnished with lovely Chinese bentwood chairs. The basic menu is diverse and imaginative, with exotic seasonal specials changing often. Try the drunken prawns (marinated live in wine and steamed at your table) and the fabulous Peking duck. Other favorites include braised duck with eight-jewel (vegetables and condiments) rice, whole roast pig, and tender fried duck in steamed ginger. Some complex dishes, such as the superb Peking duck, and some shark’s fin specialties, require advance notice. Lunchtime dim  sum is highly recommended for a tasty light meal.

5 Soi Phiphat, Silom Rd., 7th floor (across Silom Rd. from Patpong, near Bangkok Bank).Tel. 0 2235-5118. Reservations recommended. Main courses 120B–280B ($2.90–$6.80). Set menus for 4 or more are 550B

($13.40) per pax. AE, DC, MC, V. Dim sum daily 11am–2pm; dinner daily 6–11pm. 10-min. walk from Sala Daeng BTS station.

Just 15B (35¢) earns you a pad-thai served on Styrofoam and eaten with thin chopsticks. Also grilled satay and fried rice (not to mention the good halal sweet pancakes) make up the diet of many budget travelers, and busy Khao San Road is a good place for good eats at nighttime after a bit of pub crawling.

Just on the edge of the busy night market in Patpong, you’ll find lots of noodle stalls and in places like Convent Road (just across Silom from Patpong) you’ll find Kao Man Gai, a delicious boiled chicken on rice and seasoned to taste (and just 20B/50¢).

Many are put-off by seeming unhygienic conditions of street stalls, and for good reason. Even if you are an adventurous eater, take some precautions: Check all ingredients for freshness and be sure that anything you eat is prepared fresh, not just sitting out.

Foodcourts are another great way to sample authentic Thai food for very little. Every shopping mall has one, usually on the top floor. You buy coupons redeemable at small outlets lining a cafeteria dining area.

Expect to pay as little as 50B ($1.25) for a main-course of something you’ve never seen before, a drink, and a tasty Thai dessert like bananas on sticky rice in coconut nectar. Try the upscale Emporium or Siam Square department stores to get you started.

This one’s for those who would sacrifice atmosphere for excellent food. Packed nightly, you’ll still be able to find a table (the place is huge). The staff is extremely friendly—between them and the picture menu, you’ll be able to order the best dishes and have the finest recommendations.

Peruse the large aquariums outside to see all the live seafood options like prawn, fishes, lobsters, and crabs (guaranteed freshness). The house specialty, chili crab curry, is especially good, as is the tom yang goong soup (spiced to individual taste).

169/7–11 Surawongse Rd. (just across from the Peugeot building).Tel. 0 2233-3104. Reservations not necessary. Seafood at market prices (about 800B/$18 for 2). No credit cards. Daily 4–11pm.

Baan Khanitha, Thai restaurant

With so many fine Thai restaurants popping up around the city, it is getting hard to choose. Look no further than Baan Kanitha for authentic Thai in a comfortable, classy atmosphere. Down busy, trafficchoked Ruam Rudee, Baan Kanitha is an unexpected little oasis. They’ll start you off with a free tray of finger foods, the dried condiments for making your own little spicy spring rolls called Mienkham, and then you’ll graduate to shared dishes of curry, from spicy red to mellow yellow and green, light salads, and good seafood as you like it. The pomelo salad is a find. Follow-up with good Thai desserts. Thais actually come here, a rarity for upscale Thai eateries, and the place is always packed: both good signs. Be sure to call ahead.

49 Soi Ruam Rudee. Tel. 0 2253-4638-9 (also another location at 36/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23  '0 2258-4128). Reservations highly recommended. Main courses 120B–350B ($3–$8.50). AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–2pm and 6–11pm. 5-min. walk from Ploen Chit BTS station.

This is the coolest place in Bangkok, hands down. Come for a drink in the bar, at least, and stick around for when the place busts open into a full-on club. They serve meals nightly for one sitting at 8:30pm and the best part is that, as the name suggests, you eat in long shared beds. The building is a giant cylinder, almost a pointed parody of “modern” really, the kind of architecture George Jetson might like. Walking up a concrete gangplank, the velvet rope gang ushers you in via large airplane airlocks. One side is the bar, the other is the dining area where you’ll be assigned your slot on one of the two big beds that line the walls. The atmosphere is fun—a two-story, glowing white and neon interior: unique. Four-course meals are ordered from a limited menu on weeknights for 790B and weekends for 990B ($19 and $24). The food is fantastic, a constantly changing menu. I shared a tuna sashimi, tomato and basil soup, and a black cod filet artfully stacked on a bed of mashed potatoes and asparagus. All entrees are original. Dessert is pure decadence of rich chocolate specials and cakes. The atmosphere is a kind of comfortable surreal, with cool trance music spun by a DJ and wait-staff in tight spacesuits and angel wings. Not to be missed.

26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Klongtoey-Nua, Bangkok 10110 (at the end of Soi 11, near the Nana BTS station) tel.0 2651-3537. www.bedsupperclub.com. Reservations required. Men should wear trousers, not shorts. Set menu: 790B ($19) weeknights; 990B ($24) weekends. AE, MC, V. Open weekdays 7:30pm–12am and until 2am on weekends. Dinner is served promptly at 8:30 (best to be early).

One of the hottest spots for power lunches and impressive dinners, the Four Seasons Hotel’s upscale Biscotti features creative and flavorful modern recipes, dishes like wood-oven pizza with lobster tail and forest mushrooms, or fabulous focaccia mascarpone. For such fine dining, the setting is wonderfully open and informal, a contemporary dining room that’s conducive to wine and laughter. In the Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd. (south of Rama I Rd.). Tel. 0 2251-6127. Reservations necessary. Main courses 350B–1,000B ($7.95–$23). Daily 6–10:30am, noon–2:30pm, and 6–10:30pm. AE, DC, MC, V. Ratchadamri BTS station.

The Chinese Restaurant

Small dining nooks partitioned with crackled glass panels let in light but allow for privacy and intimacy. But the decor isn’t the only thing contemporary here. The menu definitely goes for the nontraditional—while shark’s fin and bird’s nest are available (what self-respecting Chinese restaurant can omit these?)—the rest of it is a gastronomic storybook of live fish (the house specialty), baked lobster, and a highly recommended steamed crab with Chinese wine—aromatic and sumptuous. Nice, New Age music complements the modern edge here. A generic name, but definitely not a generic restaurant.

Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel. 0 2254-1234. Reservations recommended. Main courses 150B–900B ($3.65–$21). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6:30–10:30pm. 5-min. walk from Chit Lom BTS station.

A spreading banyan tree on the edge of the gardenlike grounds inspires the name. The upscale dining area is warm in tone, furnished with sisal matting and white clapboard walls adorned with Thai carvings, old photos, and prints of early Bangkok. The house special is a dish for two: pressed duck with goose liver, shallots, wine, and Armagnac to make the sauce. Other fine choices include a rack of lamb a la Provençal and salmon with lemongrass. There are daily specials and a list of fine wines. If you come on foot, you’ll run the gauntlet of all the girly bars at the entrance of the soi, but find this little upscale gem and enjoy an evening of fine dining and effusive service.

59 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (1 block south of Sukhumvit Rd.).Tel. 0 2253-5556. Reservations recommended. Main courses 350B–1,440B ($11–$35). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6–10pm. 10-min. walk from Nana BTS station.

Mahanaga Thai Fusion Restaurant

Newly opened, classy Maha Naga is an oasis of luxury Thai dining in the heart of the Sukhumvit area. The name means, “big snake” or “dragon,” and refers to the stylistic caps of many Thai temple roofs that denote prosperity, and the restaurant design is quite special. A fountain courtyard surrounded by high-peaked, lavishly decorated, and air-conditioned Thai pavilions makes for a quiet, romantic evening or a fun night for private groups. The food is delicious, a bold marriage of Thai and Western traditions in unique dishes like pork chops with spicy Thai som tam (papaya salad) flavor, whole lobster done in a chili sauce, or imported New Zealand grilled filet with Thai spice and mint. Elsewhere, fusion dishes come out rather bland, but the unique fare at Maha Naga breaks new ground.

2 Sukhumvit Soi 29, Klongteoy, Bangkok 10110 tel.0 2662-3060. Reservations recommended. Main courses 300B–800B ($7.30–$20). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6–11pm. A 10-min. walk south from Phrom Pong BTS station.

With a track record of over 30 years as the home away from home for the many Japanese expatriates in Bangkok, Shin Daikoku serves delicious and authentic Japanese dishes, from hot apps and noodle dishes like Soba and Udon, to sushi, sashimi and even teppanyaki steaks. Set in a quiet neighborhood off Sukhumvit (near the Asok skytrain stop) the restaurant is a sprawling compound of private tatami (mattress) rooms, and an open dining area surrounds a cavernous indoor garden and a pond full of koi (Japanese carp). Female staff wear cotton yukata (summer kimonos) and pad around politely, hovering over every detail of the meal. The roaring laughter and shouts of, “Kampai!” from behind the painted, paper shoji screens of private rooms tells you that they’re doing it right here. A la carte dishes are small and rather expensive, but they’re worth it. And they have good sushi and sashimi sets. Order some sake, take your shoes off, wrap your tie around your head, and belt out a hearty “Kampai!”

32/8 Soi Wattana, Sukhumvit 19 Klongtoey (a 5-min. walk down Soi 19 from Asok BTS station and on left after the first intersecting road, Wattana). Tel. 0 2254-9981. Reservations for big groups only. Main course 100B–1,600B ($2.45–$39). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–10:30pm. Asok BTS station.

Spasso, Italian restaurant

Spasso is as well known as a nightlife spot as it is for Italian cuisine. A hip and classy place, the bar is always hoppin’ and there is often live music, even people waiting in line, at this artsy modern trattoria with fine decor. The food is a treat: Start with one of their antipastos featuring fine imported treats like carpaccio or smoked salmon, and then choose from their fine pastas, some, like the fusilli with chilis and shrimp, done in a modified Thai style. Thin-crust pizza fans will find a dozen combos, all made with fresh ingredients and baked in a brick oven. Local bands start at around 9:30pm, and the dancing starts not long after.

In the Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel. 0 2254-1234. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses 300B–820B ($5–$14). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm, and 7–10:30pm (kitchen closes, but disco stays on). 5-min. walk from Chit Lom BTS station.


The theatrical decor reflects the name: Burlap spice sacks, ceramic pots, and glass jars set in dark-wood cabinets around the dining area playfully re-create the mercantile feel of a traditional Thai shop house. The food is artfully presented, authentically spiced, and extraordinarily delicious, with featured regional specialties for a great way to sample dishes from places you may or may not be traveling to in the kingdom. House specialties include a tasty Miengkham appetizer of coconut, dried shrimp, nuts, and chilis that you assemble yourself, rolling ingredients in a leaf for a tasty little treat. For entrees, try the poo nim phad prig (soft-shell crab deep-fried with chili and peppercorn) or siew ngap (red curry with roasted duck in coconut milk). The menu’s “chili rating” guarantees that spices are tempered to your palate. Sunday brunches here and at the Four Seasons’ other fine dining outlets are quite popular.

In the Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd. (south of Rama I Rd.).Tel. 0 2251-6127. Reservations recommended. Main courses 180B–450B ($4.40–$11). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6–11pm. Ratchadamri BTS station.

This cafe restaurant is worth a visit if only to see the unique space, a former warehouse (reputedly a CIA hangout) now a chic, modern interior, housing the offices of owner and interior designer Robin Lourvanij, a woman who shares her time and heart between Bangkok and Australia. Come for the coffee and don’t miss the hulking roaster machine, a centerpiece of the dining area where they roast their own blend weekly. The food is delicious: a healthy sampling of unique Thai and Western fare and good stuff to fill the homesick tummies of expats and visitors. Grilled items are great, and there are lots of daily specials. Dessert is something sinful with good coffee. Kuppa is in a quiet neighborhood and has good couches for kicking back. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, Klongtoey, Bangkok (a long walk down Soi 16 from the Asok BTS skytrain station). Te. 0 2663-0495. Main courses 165B–495B ($4–$12). AE, MC, V. Daily 10:30am–11:30pm.


Le Dalat’s fine food and lovely garden setting make for a charming evening. The restaurant is casual and understatedly elegant, housed in an old Thai house done up in Vietnamese and Chinese antiques. The excellent food is prepared by Vietnamese-trained Thai chefs. Go for the bi guon (spring rolls with herbs and pork), chao tom (pounded shrimp laced on ground sugarcane in a basket of fresh noodles), and cha ra (fresh filet of grilled fish). In nice weather, you’ll enjoy dining in the gracefully landscaped outdoor garden. A very highly recommended restaurant. Don’t miss a visit to the men’s room to see their unique collection of odd erotic wall art.

14 Sukhumvit Soi 23.Tel. 0 2661-7967 (or at 47/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23 [north of Sukhumvit Rd. near Asok BTS station] tel. 0 2258-4192). Reservations recommended at dinner. Main courses 150B–650B ($3.65–$16). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6–10:30pm.


Nouvelle Thai cuisine tailored to the Western tastes is the specialty of this pleasant restaurant. Just a short walk from the skytrain (near Phrom Pong) and just across from the hulking Emporium Shopping Center, Lemongrass is set in a small Thai mansion handsomely converted and furnished with antiques and a visit here makes it easy to forget busy Bangkok outside. Try house favorites pomelo salad or chicken satay. Also excellent is the tom yang kung (a spicy sweet-and-sour prawn soup with ginger shoots), and the lemongrass chicken is tender and juicy.

5/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (south of Sukhumvit Rd. on Soi 24). Te;/ 0 2258-8637. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses 120B–550B ($2.90–$13). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–2pm and 6–11pm. Phrom Pong

BTS station.


With its sister restaurant in Vientiane, Laos, L’Opera

Bangkok has been hosting visitors and expats since they first opened in the 1970s, when Soi 39 was but a dusty little alley with cows grazing out front. Now it’s a sophisticated enclave and they’ve got the formula just right, dim lights in a glassed-in pavilion, cool jazz in the air, and good, affordable Italian. Come with friends and fill the table. We had biscotti appetizers followed by a decadent seafood salad. For a main course, go for the fresh fish done as you like or any of the grilled items or fine pastas. I had a delicious squid-ink linguini and clams—not to be missed.

53 Sukhumvit Soi 39, Klongtoe Bangkok. Tel. 0 2258-5606. Main courses 200B–880B ($4.90–$22). AE, MC, V. Daily 6–11pm. Near Phrom Pong BTS station.

This place is touristy, but I wouldn’t recommend it if it weren’t good food and fun. Chances are you’ve never had a dining experience like this before, and if you’re a seafood fan, you’ll love it. After you’ve been seated, look over the list of preparation styles, then walk to the back and take a shopping cart. Peruse the no fewer than 40 different creatures of the sea, either live or on ice, all priced by the kilo. Pay for it all at the cashier, then cart it back to the table. Waiters are skilled at making perfect suggestions for your catch, and what comes out of the kitchen is always good. Cooking charges and corkage are paid separately at the end of the meal. The seafood is market price, the fish.

89 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (Soi Kasame), Bangkok. Tel. 0 2261-2071. Reservations suggested for weekend dinner. Market Prices. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am to midnight.

Here’s a theme restaurant with a purpose. Opened by local hero Mechai Viravaidya, founder of the Population & Community Development Association, the restaurant helps fund population control, AIDS awareness, and a host of rural development programs. Set in a large compound, the two-story restaurant has air-conditioned indoor dining—but if you sit on the garden terrace, you’re in a fairyland of twinkling lights: quite romantic.

Share a whole fish done as you like or try the kai hor bai teoy (fried boneless chicken wrapped in pandan leaves with a dark sweet soy sauce for dipping). There’s also a large selection of vegetable and bean curd entrees. Before you leave, be sure to check out the gift shop’s whimsical condom-related merchandise. The restaurant hands out condoms instead of dinner mints.

10 Sukhumvit Soi 12. Tel. 0 2229-4610. Reservations recommended. 70B–200B ($1.60–$4.55). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm. 15-min. walk from Asok BTS station.


Popular among Bangkok foreign residents (and their kids), this is the place to satisfy that sweet tooth. Crepes & Co. serves them up light and fluffy and filled with any of dozens of combinations, both savory and sweet—all of them delicious. They also serve good Mediterranean main courses. Everything is excellent. They have great coffee and a good selections of tea.

18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 12. Tel. 0 2653-3990. Reservations recommended. Main courses 100B–300B ($2.30–$6.80). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 9am–midnight; Sun 8am–midnight. 15-min. walk from Asok BTS station.

What is a Dosa, you ask? It’s a Punjabi dish of curry or other savory filling folded into a large, lentil and flour tortilla or crepe (depending on your orientation) and served with coconut or coriander sauce. Very tasty and all 100% vegetarian, a comfort for some. Dosa king does have other traditional Indian dishes, but stick with the house special and a enjoy a quick, healthy meal for very little while trudging along Sukhumvit.

265/1 Sukhumvit Soi 19, Bangkok 10110 Tel. 0 2651-1700. Main courses 65B–135B ($1.60–$3.30) AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Near Asok BTS station.

On an al fresco patio beside the river, Marriott stages a Thai cultural show with traditional dance. It’s a good

Look for the snack stands along Sukhumvit Road (also Khao San Rd.) that sell all sorts of fried insects. Grasshoppers, beetles that look like cockroaches, scorpions, ants, and grubs are a favorite snack for folks from Isan, in the northeast, where bugs are in fact cultivated for the dining table and are an important source of protein in the region. How does it taste? Crickets are a bit like popcorn, and the beetles are something like a crispy (hate to say it) chicken. A great photo op. option if you’d like to see the stage show but would rather eat international cuisine as opposed to Thai, which is standard for most dinner show venues. The food is good and the buffet quite extensive. Call the hotel for details on how to pickup the hotel’s free shuttle ferry on the Chao Phraya River.

In the Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa, 257/1–3 Charoen Nakhorn Rd. near Krungthep Bridge. Tel. 0 2476-0021. Reservations recommended. 950B ($23). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7:15–8:30pm.

As you would expect from the Asian, this Thai restaurant is one of Bangkok’s special places. Guests sit on pillows at low tables in the glittering, bronze-trimmed, teak and marble main hall, and dine on finely crafted Thai dishes. In the evening, classical dancers from Bangkok’s Department of Fine Arts perform a 1-hour show of royal dances of the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, as well as various folk dances. They have a free shuttle from the Saphan Taksin pier (on a separate dock connecting with city hotels).

In the Oriental Bangkok (on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River).Tel. 0 2437-2918. 1,700B ($42) adult, 1,350B ($33) children. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7–10pm, performance 8:30pm.

Held only on Friday and Saturday nights, the show at Supatra is very interesting, with refreshing and creative interpretations by true performers. Also, you are not locked into a set menu and can order a la carte or just sip a drink and enjoy the show. The one drawback is that while the two-story teak house and river terrace makes a beautiful setting, not all tables have a good view of the performance.

266 Soi Wat Rakhang Arunamarin Rd., Siriraj Bangkoknoi. Tel. 0 2411-0305. Reservations recommended. Main courses 120B–380B ($2.70–$8.65). MC, V. Fri and Sat night only. Shows start at 8:30pm. Call ahead to arrange for free ferry transfer across the river.

Inskde Manohra Dinner Cruise on Chao Phraya River, Bangkok

While there are a number of tour operators who offer dinner cruises along the Chao Phraya, if you want to eat the finest food, I only have one solid recommendation. The Manohra , a reconverted antique rice barge, cruises the river nightly serving a six-course Thai dinner that’s delicious (and not overly spicy). The quality of the food is excellent, especially considering most other dinner cruises serve lukewarm indescribable food. The set menu is 1,200B ($27) per person, and Manohra sets sail at 7:30pm (but you can pick it up at the Oriental pier, where it stops at about 7:40pm). Be sure to book in advance to make sure the boat isn’t rented out for a private party. Call the Bangkok Marriott Resort and Spa (Tel. 0 2476-0021).

The Horizon II makes daily trips to Ayuthaya and back as well as evening cruises in town for a romantic candlelit meal. Cruises start at just 1,400B ($34) and leave daily at 8am for all-day trips or 7:30pm for dinner cruises. Contact the Shangri La Hotel (Tel. 0 2236-7777).