Chiang Mai
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| Map of Chiang Mai |
Local princes, called chao, remained in nominal control of the city in the late 18th and early 19th century, though they deferred to the king of Siam in Bangkok. In 1874, King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), concerned with encroachment by the British (who had teak-logging interests as occupiers of Burma) and fearful of a conflict with them, sent a commission to Chiang Mai, which eventually limited the power of the local princes and brought the Lanna kingdom further under the control of the central government in Bangkok. In 1939, the city was formally and fully integrated into the kingdom of Thailand, becoming the administrative center of the north. In 1996, the city celebrated its 700th anniversary.
These days, Chiang Mai is booming and the telltale cranes, scaffolding and racket of a developing city are everywhere. The population is an estimated 167,000 (in a province of some 1.5 million) and growing along with the attendant “big city” problems of suburban sprawl, rush-hour traffic and water shortages (though nothing compared to Bangkok).
It would be difficult to find a city that reflects more of the country’s diverse cultural heritage and modern aspirations than Chiang Mai. Tour buses crowd Burmese-style wats ablaze with the color of saffron and humming with the chanting of monks. Hilltribe groups sell their wares in the busy, modern market. Narrow streets lined with ornately carved teak houses lie in the shadow of contemporary skyscrapers. Chiang Mai’s heart is its Old City, an area surrounded by vestiges of walls and moats originally constructed for defense; yet Chiang Mai is a modern city with a growing infrastructure of modern shopping malls and condominiums. The contrast is part of the town’s charm.
Because of its temperate climate, many Thais choose Chiang Mai as a summer retreat during March, April, and May, when the rest of the country is wilting under the heat. Its central location makes Chiang Mai an excellent base for exploring the north of Thailand.
BY PLANE In planning your trip, keep in mind that Chiang Mai has international links with major cities throughout the region. Lao Aviation (Tel 0 5340-4033) connects Chiang Mai to Vientiane and Luang Prabang three times each week, while both Thai Airways (Tel. 0 5321-0431) and Air Mandalay ('05327-6884) have limited flights to Yangon and Mandalay, in Myanmar (Burma). Silk Air (Tel. 0 5327-6459), the regional arm of Singapore Airlines, connects Singapore with direct service three times a week.Thai Airways International has service direct from Kunming in southern China. For international reservations in Chiang Mai, call tel. 0 5321-1044.
Within Thailand, Thai Airways, 240 Propokklao Rd. (Tel. 0 5321-0431), flies from Bangkok to Chiang Mai 10 times daily (trip time: 1 hr., 10 min.). There’s a direct flight from Phuket daily, plus a circular route connecting Phitsanulok, Nan, Phrae, and Chiang Mai four times a week. The 35-minute hop up to Chiang Rai departs twice daily, and another 35-minute hop is also the fastest way to get out to Mae Hong Son.
Bangkok Airways has an office at the airport in Chiang Mai (Tel. 0 5328-1519 or 02229-3434 in Bangkok) and flies numerous daily flights from Bangkok. A new budget carrier, Air Asia (Tel. 0 2515-9999 in Bangkok; www.airasia.com.) flys Bangkok to Chiang Mai for as little as 600B ($15).
The Chiang Mai International Airport has several banks for changing money, a post and overseas call office, and an information booth. Taxis from the airport are a flat 100B ($2.50) to town, a bit more for places outside of Chiang Mai proper. Buy a ticket from the taxi booth in the arrival hall, then proceed to the taxi queue with your ticket.
BY TRAIN Of the seven daily trains from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, the 8:30am Sprinter (11 hr.; 481B/$11 second-class air-conditioned seat) is the quickest, but you sacrifice a whole day to travel and spend the entire trip in a seat.
The other trains take between 13 and 15 hours, but for overnight trips, second-class sleeper berths are a good choice (741B/$16 upper berth, air-conditioned; 681B/$17 lower berth, air-conditioned). Private sleeper cabins are also available, but at 1,213B ($29) the cost is almost as much as flying. It really comes down to which you can spare—money or time. Purchase tickets at Bangkok’s Hua Lampong Railway Station (Tel. 0 2223-7010 or 1690) up to 90 days in advance.
For local train information in Chiang Mai call tel. 0 5324-5363, for advance booking call tel. 0 5324-2094. Reservations cannot be made over the phone, but you can call and check to see if space is available.
BY BUS Buses from Bangkok to Chiang Mai are many and varied—from rattle-trap, open-air numbers to fully reclining VIP buses. The trip takes about 10 hours. From Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal, close to the Mo Chit stop on the skytrain ('02936-2841), six daily 24-seater VIP buses provide the most comfort, with larger seats that recline (625B/$15). There’s also frequent service between Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son, Phitsanulok, and Chiang Rai. Most buses arrive at the Arcade Bus Station (Tel. 0 5324-2664) on Kaeo Nawarat Road, 3km (2 miles) northeast of the Tha Pae Gate; a few arrive at the Chang Puak station (Tel. 0 5321-1586), north of the Chang Puak Gate on Chotana Road. Some of the private bus companies drop their passengers off on the Superhighway, where guesthouse touts await them. Unless you’re exhausted, don’t accept their offers and make the extra effort to get to your place of choice on your own. You should be able to find a tuk-tuk or songtao.
The heart of Chiang Mai is the Old City, completely surrounded by a moat (restored in the 19th century) and a few remains of the massive wall, laid out in a square aligned on the cardinal directions. Several of the original gates have been restored and serve as handy reference points, particularly Ta Pae Gate to the east. The most important temples are within the walls of the Old City.
All major streets radiate from the Old City. The main business and shopping area is the 1km (2⁄3-mile) stretch between the east side of the Old City and the Ping River. Here you will find the Night Bazaar, many shops, trekking agents, better hotels, guesthouses and restaurants, and some of the most picturesque back streets in the area.
To the west of town and visible from anywhere in the city is the imposing wall of Doi Suthep mountain where, at its crest, you’ll find the most regal of all Chiang Mai Buddhist compounds, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, standing stalwart as if to give its blessing to the city below. The road leading to the temple takes you past a big mall, a strip of modern hotels, the zoo and the university.
The Superhighway circles the outskirts of the city and is connected by traffic-choked arteries emanating from the city center. If driving or riding a motorbike in Chiang Mai, the many one-way streets in and around town are confounding. The moat that surrounds the city has concentric circles of traffic: the outer ring runs clockwise and the inner ring counter with U-turn bridge between. The streets in and around the Night Bazaar are all one-way as well. This means that even if you know where you’re going, you’ll have to pull your share of U-turns.
BY BUS There are no buses in Chiang Mai.
BY SONGTAO Songtaos (covered pickups) cover all routes. From Chang Puak Bus Station, there is frequent, inexpensive bus service to the nearby villages of Sankamphaeng and Bo Sang, Lamphun. These red pickup trucks fitted with two long bench seats are also known locally as seelor (four wheels). They trace the major roads throughout the city, day and night, with no fixed stopping points. Hail one going in your general direction and tell the driver your destination.
(Tip: Have your hotel or guesthouse concierge write your destination in Thai before you head out.) If it fits in with the destinations of other passengers, you’ll get a ride to your door for only 10B to 20B (25¢–50¢). Some drivers will ask exorbitant fees as if they are a taxi (especially when empty); let these guys just drive-on. If you can deal with a bit of uncertainty along the confusing twist of roads, it’s a great way to explore the city. Songtaos can also take you up to the top of Doi Suthep Mountain for 35B (85¢) but only 25B/60¢ for the easier downhill return trip.
BY TUK-TUK The ubiquitous tuk-tuk (motorized three-wheeler) is the next best option to the songtao. Fares are negotiable—and you will have to bargain hard to get a good rate—but expect to pay at least 40B ($1) for any ride. Tuk-tuks are good fun, especially for the first-timer, and whizzing around busy streets brings out the kid in most; many drivers are real characters too, can speak good English and offer informal (okay, very informal) info and advice.
That said, be careful: the same warning for Bangkok applies here—drivers will offer you a low fare and promise a “shopping tour” of their favorite vendors and factories in the hopes of pocketing commissions. The “shopping tour” is a waste of time and lots of frustration so be sure to negotiate a fare for your destination and be clear: “No shopping.” A favorite ploy is feigning ignorance of a place or telling you it’s closed. Don’t buy it. When talking prices, it is good to write it down on a scrap of paper so there is no argument when you get there and the driver asks for 200B ($4.90) instead of the 20B (50¢) you agreed on.
BY CAR Avis has an office conveniently located at the airport (Tel. 0 5320-1574). Avis self-drive rental rates for Chiang Mai are the same as they are elsewhere in Thailand from 1,500B ($36) per day for a Suzuki Caribian 4WD sport vehicle to 2,000B ($49) and up for a compact sedan.
Budget doesn’t have an airport office, but will deliver cars free of charge to any hotel for no extra fee. Contact their central reservation office it Bangkok at tel. 0 2203-0250 (www.budget.co.th).
There are dozens of local car-rental companies with sedans for 1,000B to 1,400B ($24–$34) per day, and Suzuki Caribians for as low as 900B ($22) per day. Most travel agents will arrange a car and driver for about 1,600B ($39) per day. North Wheels, 127/2 Moonmuang Rd. (Tel. 0 5321-6189), is tops in this category and does pickup or drop-off service to the airport or your hotel.
BY MOTORCYCLE Many guesthouses along the Ping River and shops around Chaiyapoom Road (north of Tha Pae Gate in the Old City) rent 100cc to 150cc motorcycles for about 200B ($4.90) per day (discounts for longer duration). 250cc Hondas (and larger) with good suspension are commonly available and the best choice for any trips up-country because of their added power and large fuel tanks; they rent for about 550B ($13). Make sure you have the necessary insurance, wear a helmet, and expect to leave your passport as security (don’t leave any credit cards). Traffic congestion makes driving within the city dangerous, so employ defensive driving techniques.
BY BICYCLE Cycling in the city is fun and practical, especially for getting around to the temples within the Old City. Avoid rush hour and take great care on the busy roads outside of the ancient walls. Bikes are available at any of the many guesthouses in or around the old city and go for about 30B (75¢) per day.
You won’t find one in Chaing Mai. It was rumored that a small metered fleet was brought to the Lanna capital from Bangkok but somehow disappeared before they could be put into service. However impractical, the “system” of roving hoards of red pickup trucks honking at any would-be passenger has it’s defenders and so getting around town means only tuktuks and said songtaos. Time will tell.
Airport See “Arriving,” above.
American Express There is no specific agent that handles American Express services in Thailand anymore, but they have an American Express office at 388 Pahonyothin Rd. in Bangkok. You can reach the office at tel. 0 2273-5296 during business hours (Mon-Fri 8:30am–4:30pm) or call their customer service hotline (Tel. 0 2273-5544) with any problems or questions.
ATMs For ATMs and money changers, go to Chang Klan Road and Charoen Prathet Road, around the Night Bazaar, for the most convenient major bank branches.
Bookstores Backstreet Books (Tel. 0 5387-4143) and Gecko Books (Tel. 0 5387-4066) are neighbors on Chang Moi Kao, a side-street north of eastern Ta Pae Road just before it meets the city wall. Both have a good selection of new and used books and do exchanges at the usual rate (two for one depending on the condition). Bookazine (ground floor, Chiang Inn Plaza, 100/1 Chang Klan Rd.; Tel. 0 5328-1370)—is cramped but has a comprehensive selection. Also try Suriwong Book Centre, 54/1–5 Sri Dornchai (Tel. 0 5328-1052), and D. K. Books, 234 Tha Pae Rd. (Tel. 0 5325-1555).
Car Rentals See “Getting Around: By Car,” above.
Climate See “When to Go,” in chapter 10, “Exploring Northern Thailand.”
Consulates There are many representative offices in Chiang Mai. Contacts are as follows: American Consulate General (Tel. 0 5325-2629), Canadian Honorary Consul (Tel. 0 5385-0147), Australian Honorary Consul (Tel. 0 5322-1083), and British Consul (Tel. 0 5320-3405).
Dentist/Doctor The American Consulate (see “Consulates,” above) will supply you with a list of English-speaking dentists and doctors. There are also several medical clinics; check with your hotel about the best and nearest facility.
Emergencies Dial '1699 to reach the Tourist Police in case of emergency.
Holidays See “When to Go,” in chapter 2, “Planning Your Trip to Thailand,” and the “Northern Thailand Calendar of Events,” in chapter 10, “Exploring Northern Thailand.”
Hospitals In Chiang Mai, hospitals offer excellent emergency and general care, with English-speaking nurses and physicians. The best private hospital is McCormick on Kaeo Nawarat Road (Tel. 0 5324-1311) out toward the Arcade Bus Terminal.
Internet In the Old City, there are numerous small, inexpensive cafes with service sometimes costing only 15B (35¢) per hour. Just outside the city and featuring the speediest service in town for just 1B per minute (about .25¢ per minute) is NET Generation at 404/4 Tapae Rd (Tel. 0 1568-7470). In the Night Bazaar area, try Assign Internet in Chiang Mai Pavilion at the Night Bazaar on 145/23 Chang Klan Rd. (Tel. 0 5381-8911). Just across from the entrance to Gad Suan Kaew/Central Department Store in the northwest corner of the Old City, Buddy Internet is at 12 Huaykaew Rd. (Tel. 0 5340-4550) and open from 8am to midnight.
Pharmacies There are dozens of pharmacies throughout the city; most are open daily 7am to midnight.
Police For police assistance, call the Tourist Police at tel. 1699, or see them at the TAT office.
Post Office The most convenient branch is at 186/1 on Chang Klan Road (Tel. 0 5327-3657). The General Post Office is on Charoen Muang ('05324-1070), near the train station. The Overseas Call Office, open 24 hours, is upstairs from the GPO and offers phone, fax, and telex services. There is a 24-hour branch at the airport (' 05327-7382).
City accommodations listed below are separated as follows: east of town near the Ping River/Night Bazaar area, within the Old City walls or outside of town on the road to Doi Suthep (near the university).
The Imperial Mae Ping Hotel This imposing, crescent-shaped tower hotel is one of the city’s most popular choices for its style and good location—just a short stroll from the Night Bazaar, yet far enough to get a good night’s sleep. The unusual two story lobby interprets Thai architectural elements in bold white-and-gold accents and the decor throughout is a nice mix of modern and traditional. Large, bright guest rooms are modern and feature traditional blond teak furnishings and contemporary Thai elements like sculpted lamp bases, reproductions of temple murals and Thai weavings. Beds are big. Deluxe rooms have better-than-average amenities for just a small jump in price. Be sure to ask for a room with a mountain view.
153 Sri Dornchai Rd., Chiang Mai 50100 (corner of Kampaengdin Rd., 2 blocks southwest of Night Bazaar). Tel. 0 5327-0160. Fax 05327-0181. 371 units. 3,500B–5,500B ($85–$134) double; from 8,000B ($195) suite.
AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge and beer garden; outdoor pool; fitness center; tour desk; limousine service; business center; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms, executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minbar, fridge.
Royal Princess Hotel This northern cousin of Bangkok’s Dusit Thani is a first-rate city hotel. While the lobby has a faux-colonial feel, recent cosmetic renovations lend a chic air to upstairs common areas. Guestrooms are done in a mix of cool pastels set against panels, or whole walls, of saturated primary colors featuring poetry in elegant Thai calligraphy. Upper floor deluxe rooms have an interesting Japanese theme. The downtown location means easy access to shopping and nightlife, and all guestrooms have a good vantage on the glittering lights of the city. You’re right in the heart of it here so be warned that stepping out of the hotel means that touts and tuk-tuk drivers pounce. Don’t miss Jasmine Restaurant’s excellent dim sum lunch (see “Where to Dine,” later in this chapter).
112 Chang Klan Rd., Chiang Mai 50100 (located just south of the Night Bazaar). Tel. 0 5328-1033. Fax 05328-1044. www.royalprincess.com. 198 units. 3,200B–3,500B ($78–$85) double; from 10,500B ($256) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lobby lounge and pub; small outdoor pool; concierge; tour desk; limousine service; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning.
In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe.
The Westin Chiang Mai Chiang Mai’s best high-rise hotel is just a short ride south of town. This is “The Address” in Chiang Mai if you’re coming for business. From the enormous pillars, chandeliers, frescoes and filigree of the grand lobby to their international standard of guestrooms and service, everything is tip-top. What the Westin lacks in “local” touches it more than makes up for with comfortable familiarity. Complimentary shuttles to Night Bazaar and airport help offset the out-of-the-way locale.
318/1 Chiangmai-Lamphun Rd., Chiang Mai 50007 (south of city center, across Mengrai Bridge on east bank of river).Tel. 0 800/WESTIN-1 or 05327-5300. Fax 05327-5299. www.westin.com. 526 units. 6,200B–7,200B ($151–$175) double; 8,500B ($207) exec. deluxe; from 14,500B ($354) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; outdoor pool; golf course nearby; fitness center; sauna; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, hair dryer.
Chiang Inn Hotel The renovated Chiang Inn is just behind the Chiang
Inn Plaza, an arcade of Western chain eateries and shops, but it’s set back from the lively street and quiet. Location and convenience are its best features, adding special value for money to this modest hotel. The compact, teak-paneled lobby has a homey feel and is always crowded with Europeans. Spacious rooms are clean but are decorated in a bland fashion and a bit worse for wear. Bathrooms are big but could use a bit of grout solvent and elbow grease. While hotel facilities are limited, with so many dining and entertainment options nearby you won’t be spending much time in your room. After touring the city and its sights, you’ll appreciate relaxing around the pool and sun deck.
100 Chang Klan Rd., Chiang Mai 50100 (2 blocks south of Tha Pae Rd., 2 blocks west of river, just north of Night Bazaar). Tel. 0 5327-0070. Fax 05327-4299. chianginn@chiangmai.a-net.net.th. 190 units. 1,600B ($39) double; from 6,000B ($146) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lobby lounge; small pool; tour desk; business center; limited room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge.
Chiang Mai Plaza Hotel These two 12-story towers, completed in 1986, are a bland, modern Western hotel, but guest rooms are large, plush, and offer city and mountain views. The lobby is so spacious that the decorative furniture seems almost lost in acres of brilliantly polished granite. The Plaza is also well located—in town, but just far enough away, toward the Ping River, to be out of the congestion. It’s very popular with group tours but the place is so big you won’t know they’re there. The swimming pool is surrounded by Lanna-style pavilions and their newly built spa area is a catacomb in deep umber tones, dim lights and Thai decoration where they offer the gamut of affordable but high quality health and beauty treatments.
92 Sri Dornchai Rd., Chiang Mai 50100 (between Chang Klan and Charoen Prathet rds., midway between Old City and river). Tel. 0 5327-0036. Fax 05327-2230. 445 units. 2,500B–3,000B ($61–$73) double; from 12,200B ($298) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; outdoor pool; fitness center; spa with massage and sauna; tour desk; car-rental desk; business center; limited room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, hair dryer.
The Empress Hotel This 17-story tower, opened in 1990, is south of the main business and tourist area, which makes it especially quiet. The hotel has all the amenities and even when swarming with tourist groups doesn’t seem overrun.
The impressive public spaces are filled with glass, granite, and chrome and integrated Thai touches and flairs. Large rooms with picture windows are done in a tasteful, modern interpretation of Asian decor of rose and peach tones. Bathrooms are small but decked-out in marble and offer good complimentary amenities. Ask to be on the mountain side and there are nice views from upper floors.
199/42 Chang Klan Rd., Chiang Mai 50100 (a 15-min. walk south of Night Bazaar, 2 blocks from river). Tel. 0 5327-0240. Fax 0 5327-2467. www.empresshotels.com. 375 units. 3,000B–4,000B ($73–$98) double; from 8,400B ($205) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lobby lounge and disco; pool; fitness center with sauna; concierge; tour desk; business center; Internet; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, hair dryer.
Pornping Tower Right in the heart of the busy shopping and nightlife area near the Night Bazaar, this 20-story hotel bustles with evening activity. Public spaces are full of polished marble, glass, and mirrors; rooms use cool colors and have a contemporary style. There’s an excellent pool with an inviting sundeck, good in-house dining, attentive service and top location: ingredients that combine to make this one of the best buys in the city. Be sure to check out their happenin’ Bubble Disco (when it’s happenin’, that is—weekend nights mostly).
46–48 Charoen Prathet Rd., Chiang Mai 50100 (corner of Loi Kroa Rd., 1 block from river). Tel. 0 5327-0099. Fax 05327-0119. 318 units. 1,500B–2,200B ($37–$54) double; from 5,000B ($122) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; popular disco, lounge and karaoke; outdoor pool; tour desk; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge.
River View Lodge River View has a great location and is the kind of place where people return to again and again (well-known guide-map maker Nancy Chandler, for instance, makes this her home when she is researching). The hotels riverside location makes for a peaceful retreat, and yet it’s only a short hop to the city’s main business and shopping district. What with the quaint, shady garden, small but cozy riverside pool, open-air cafe and quiet sitting areas scattered about, there’s a good laid-back vibe here. The staff is friendly enough and informed if a bit “eccentric” to give it a word. Large guest rooms have fresh terracotta tile floors with simple wood furnishings and no-fuss decor set against one wall of red-brick facing (some have balconies). Bathrooms have shower stalls only.
25 Charoen Prathet Rd., Soi 2, Chiang Mai 50100 (on river 2 blocks south of Thae Pae Rd.). Tel. 0 5327-1109. Fax 05327-9019. www.riverviewlodgch.com. 36 units. 1,450B–1,800B ($35–$44) double, priced according to size and view. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; small pool; laundry service. In room: A/C.
Rydges Tapae Chiangmai For years there was a moratorium on high-rise building in and around the old city (all other towers are in the Night Bazaar area). Then, (whoops!) the new Rydges hotel kind of slipped by there and is a 12-story eye-sore on the edge of the historic city center where few buildings are over two. What this means for you is that rooms on the upper floors offer some of the best views of the Old City and the mountains beyond. Everything’s brand new and chain-hotel style rooms have no distinguishing features other than their good size and cleanliness. There is a small pool and common areas are grand beyond the price tag.
22 Chaiyapoom Road, Chiangmai 50300 (north of Ta Pae Gate and just across the mote from the Old City). Tel. 0 5325-1531. Fax 05325-1721. www.rydges.com. 204 units. 2,500B–3,000B ($61–$73) double; from 4,000B ($97) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; beer garden on top floor, outdoor pool; tour desk; limited room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, safe, IDD phone.
Suriwongse Hotel For the shopper or party animal looking to be close to the Night Bazaar area, this hotel is tops. The unique hardwood paneling in the lobby lends warmth to the place and spacious, teak-trimmed rooms have clean carpet, large, firm beds, and are done in cool off-white and pastel (if you can ignore the red bordello drapes). This is one of Chiang Mai’s better values.
Higher-priced rooms have similar amenities but offer a balcony and better views. The towns McDonalds and Starbuck’s franchises are both within a stone’s throw (if throwing stones is your thing).
110 Chang Klan Rd., Chiang Mai 50100 (corner of Loi Kroa Rd., just southwest of Night Bazaar, halfway between Old City and river). Tel. 0 5327-0051. Fax 05327-0063. www.suriwongsehotels.com. 180 units.
2,200B–2,800B ($54–$68) double; from 4,700B ($115) suite (seasonal rates available). AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; pool; tour desk; business center; shopping; limited room service; massage;
babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, IDD phone.
Baan Kaew Guesthouse This motel-style guesthouse, an enclosed compound in a quiet neighborhood just a short walk south of the Night Bazaar, has a well-tended garden and a manicured lawn. Rooms are very simple but spotless, with new floor coverings (guests are asked to remove shoes before entering) and tiled bathrooms with hot-water showers. Breakfast is served in a shaded pavilion.
It’s a bit like a clean and very friendly American roadside motel and it’s close to the market but quiet.
142 Charoen Prathet Rd., Chiang Mai 50100 (south of Loi Kroa Rd. opposite Wat Chaimongkol; enter gate, turn left, and find guesthouse well back from street). Tel. 0 5327-1606. Fax 05327-3436. 20 units. 520B ($13) double. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant (breakfast only); tour desk; laundry service. In room: A/C.
Galare Guest House If the River View Lodge (see “Moderate,” above) is booked or you want to save the baht, try the smaller Galare, almost next door.
It’s a Thai-style, three-story, brick-and-wood motel, with broad covered verandas overlooking a pleasant garden and courtyard. Rooms are small but have air-conditioning and king-size beds. It’s low-luxe linoleum floors and bamboo catay on the walls but comfortable. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner on a covered deck overlooking the river. An in-house trekking agency organizes trips to hilltribe villages as well as local tours of Chiang Mai. Up to 20% discounts available in the off-season.
7 Charoen Prathet Rd., Soi 2, Chiang Mai 50100 (on river south of Tha Pae Rd.). Tel. 0 5381-8887. Fax 05327-9088. 35 units. 880B ($22) double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; tour desk; car rental; Internet access; laundry service. In room: TV, fridge.
Tamarind Village Passing down a long, shaded lane lined with new-growth bamboo, follow meandering walkways among the whitewashed buildings of this stylish little hideaway in the heart of the Old City. It’s hard to believe that you’re in Chiang Mai. Newly built and always busy, rooms at the Tamarind are marvels of concrete flatwork burnished to an almost shining glow and, complimented by straw mats and chic contemporary Thai furnishings, make for a pleasing minimalist feel (if you’re a minimalist, that is). Bathrooms are spacious with large double doors connecting with vaulted ceiling guestrooms. There’s an almost Mediterranean feel to the whole complex what with all of the arched, covered terra-cotta walks joining buildings in a village-style layout. Short of the fine pool and a dandy restaurant, amenities are sparse, but the staff is helpful and the atmosphere quite unique.
50/1 Rathcadamnoen Rd., Sriphom, Chiangmai 50200 (a short walk toward the center of the Old City from Ta Pae Gate). Tel. 0 5341-8896. Fax 05341-8900. 40 units. 3,600B–5,100B ($88–$125) double; 6,150B ($150) deluxe. Amenities: Restaurant and bar; outdoor pool; tour desk; same-day laundry/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minbar, fridge, hair dryer, IDD phone.
Gap’s House Gap’s House is tucked down a quiet lane just inside the city wall at Ta Pae. An upmarket guesthouse really, the hotel atmosphere is calm with a leafy central garden area surrounding a large, teak, Lanna Thai pavilion. Rooms are in free-standing teak houses and feature woven rattan beds and small tiled bathrooms. Time is taking a toll on the room facilities here so the rustic charm borders on just plain old. Avoid the budget singles in a separate cement building.
3 Soi 4, Ratchadamnoen Rd., Chiang Mai 50000 (1 block west of Tha Pae Gate on left). Tel. and fax 05327-8140. 19 units. 390B–650B ($9.50–$16) double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; cooking courses; laundry service. In room: A/C, no phone.
Montri Hotel The earliest address of note for foreigners in Chiang Mai, the Montri is still a convenient, inexpensive gem located just inside the Old City and across from Ta Pae Gate. Newly renovated rooms with built-in cabinets, valances and new furniture are attractive, comfortable, and a very good value, and the rest are pretty basic cells but comfy and clean. Dark parquet floors are standard throughout and bathrooms are shower-in-rooms style. Ask for a back-facing room; you’ll get more peace and from higher floors can see Doi Suthep. If you’re arriving by plane make sure you request a free airport transfer when you make your booking.
2–6 Ratchadamnoen Rd., Chiang Mai 50100 (just northwest across from Tha Pae Gate). Tel. 0 5321-1069. Fax 05321-7416. 75 units. 575B–695B ($14–$17) double. 750B ($18) renovated room (new superior). MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; tour desk; small business center; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, fridge, minbar, fridge.
Top North Guest House South of Ta Pae and down one of the Old City’s narrow lanes, laid-back Top North is comfortable and affordable. The small central pool is unique in this category and is a popular hangout for backpackers going upscale. There are many room standards. All have high ceilings and the top category rooms (500B/$12) are large and clean with tile floors and large bathrooms with bathtubs. Time is not kind to budget hotels though and indeed some of the room furnishings look like they’ve gone a few rounds with an angry, caged ape.
Rooms on the lower echelon vary in price and amenities (with or without air-conditioning or TV) but all have hot-water showers. Top North has a good tour operation, an Internet cafe on premises, and shows DVDs in the bar in the evenings.
Their sister property, Top North Hotel, is an old standby just south of the Ta Pae Gate within the Old City and offers a slightly higher class of rooms but seems to attract a rougher lot; good in a pinch though, call tel. 0 5327-9623-5.
15 Moon Muang Rd., Soi 2, Chiang Mai 50100. Tel. 0 5329-8900. Fax 05327-8485. 90 units. 500B ($12) double
with A/C; 300B ($6.80) double with fan. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; outdoor pool; bike and motorcycle rental; tour desk; Internet cafe; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV.
The Amari Rincome Hotel This tranquil hotel complex is a favorite because of its elegant, yet traditional, Thai atmosphere. The public spaces are decorated with local handicrafts, and the professional staff wears intricately embroidered costumes. The large, balconied guest rooms are elaborately adorned with Burmese tapestries and carved wood accents in local style, and the bathrooms are plush. There is a gorgeous garden and pool area, the dining at their La Gritta (see “Where to Dine,” later) is great, and the hotel is located near some of the better upscale shopping and galleries in town. The staff is as professional as they come, will know your name from the moment you cross the threshold and can help with any eventuality (tours, transport, and so on). A very comfortable choice.
1 Nimmanhaeminda Rd., off Huay Kaeo Rd., Chiang Mai 50200 (near Superhighway northwest of Old City). Tel. 0 5322-1130. Fax 05322-1915. www.amari.com. 158 units. 4,300B–5,300B ($105–$130) double; from 10,500B ($266) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; 2 outdoor pools; outdoor lighted tennis court; concierge; tour desk; limousine service; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, hair dryer.
Chiang Mai Orchid The Orchid has attractive facilities and friendly service and is located just next to the towns most popular hangout, Gad Suan Kaew Shopping Complex. Spacious, quiet rooms are large, familiar and pleasantly decorated with local woodcarvings. The lobby and other public spaces are furnished with clusters of chic, low-slung rattan couches and chairs and decorated with flowers. They cover all the bases in amenities, from dining to car rental and a knowledgeable tour desk.
100–102 Huai Kaeo Rd., Chiang Mai 50200 (northwest of Old City, next door to Gad San Kaew/Central Shopping Complex). Tel. 0 5322-2099. Fax 05322-1625. 267 units. 2,800B–3,500B ($68–$85) double; from 9,000B
($220) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge and pub; outdoor pool; car rental desk; fitness center; sauna; children’s playground; tour desk; limited room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, dataport, minibar, fridge.
YMCA International Hotel The YMCA has a studious, clean-cut feel (the endorsement of the Village People applies): It’s tidy, quiet and affordable. Room standards range from a big dormitory with common bathroom to affordable singles and doubles and even a large suite for families. Note: Larger superior rooms are a better choice than the sometimes-musty standard category. Access to the YMCA’s laundry and recreation facilities is included in the price. The location is not too convenient: not far from Kad Suan Kaew but down a soi with infrequent
songtao connections (best if you have your own wheels).
11 Sermsuk Rd., Mengrairasmi, Chiang Mai 50200 (from the northwest corner of the Old City, continue north past the Public Library, take the first left and find it on the right). Tel. 0 5322-1819. Fax 05321-5523. 65 units. 300B ($7.50) dormitory; 600B ($15) standard double; 900B ($22) superior double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; tour desk; handicrafts outlet; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV.
The Four Seasons Resort & Spa Northern Thailand’s finest resort is isolated from the bustle of the city on 8 hectares (20 acres) of landscaped grounds in the Mae Rim Valley. The beautiful central garden includes two small lakes, lily ponds, and terraced rice paddies that are maintained by the resort staff.
There is even a resident family of water buffalos used to work the fields (perhaps the most pampered beasts of burden in the kingdom). Two-story Lanna-style pavilions overlook the tranquil scenery. Spacious suites are understatedly elegant with polished teak floors and vaulted ceilings, decorated with traditional Thai fabrics and art, each with an adjoining private sala (open-air pavilion). Bathrooms are particularly large and luxurious, with two vanities, separate shower and a big sunken tub with picture windows on three sides overlooking a secluded, private garden.
The pool is a spectacle. As you stand at the head, the false edge at the opposite end seems to drop off into the paddy fields below and rise into the mountains beyond. At night, torches are lit in the fields, lending a mysterious air to the views from the resort’s restaurants. The resort location though gives you full access to the picturesque Mae Rim valley and helpful tour staff can arrange day tours and guests are invited to borrow mountain bikes for self-guided exploration of the area (see “Side Trips from Chiang Mai,” later in this chapter, about the Mae Sa Valley). If you’re worried about being far from Chiang Mai, the resort provides regular shuttles to and from the main business and shopping district.
And if you’re still twiddling your thumbs you can put them to work at the hotel’s fine cooking school. The piece de resistance is the Regent’s luxurious Lanna Spa, which offers a standard of luxury and service without rival in the region. A very unique and luxurious resort.
Mae Rim–Samoeng Old Rd., Mae Rim, Chiang Mai 50180 (20 min. north of city off Chiangmai-Maerim Rd.). Tel. 800/545-4000 in the U.S., or 05329-8181. Fax 05329-8190. www.fourseasons.com. 80 suites. 15,400B–19,000B ($375–$465) pavilion suite; from 36,900B ($900) residence suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; 2 pools; 2 outdoor lighted grass tennis courts; fitness center w/sauna and steam; spa w/steam, massage, salon; complimentary bicycles available; children’s activities; library; concierge w/personalized tour arrangements and car rental; shuttle to town; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV w/in-house movies, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe.
Northern-style, called Lanna, Thai cooking has been influenced by the Burmese and other ethnic minorities who live in the area. Among the most distinctive northern Thai dishes are khao miao (glutinous or sticky rice) often served in a knotted banana leaf, sai-ua (Chiang Mai sausage); khao soi (a spicy, curried broth with vegetables and glass noodles), as well as many other slightly sweet meat and fish curries. You may be relieved to know that chili peppers are used less than in other Thai regional cuisines. The formal northern meal is called khan toke, referring to the custom of sharing a variety of main courses (eaten with the hands) with guests seated around khan toke (low, lacquered teak tables). Most of the restaurants that serve in the khan toke style combine a dance performance with the meal. These are covered in the nightlife section later in this chapter.
Chiang Mai is also blessed with good street food and markets. Anusarn Market on the corner of Sri Dornchai and Chang Klan roads near the Night Bazaar is a good place for authentic local food. Also try Somphet Market on the northeast corner of the city, a good place to pickup snacks like fried bananas or sticky-rice desserts in the daytime or have a good meal for little in the evening when the area bustles with locals and young backpackers alike. Chiang Mai folks take their khao soi (noodles and curry broth) pretty seriously.
The best is to be had in Fa Ham, an area about 1km (2⁄3 mile) north of central Narawat bridge on Charoenrat road along the east bank of the Mae Ping River. There are a number of open-air places serving the delicacy for just 20B (50¢) and tasty skewers of chicken and pork satay. Always packed.
Jasmine CHINESE Jasmine is an intimate, quiet, tastefully decorated, and expensive Cantonese restaurant that specializes in dim sum at lunch. The menu varies, but there are normally 12 different mildly spiced, freshly steamed treats from which to choose. A la carte specialties include bird’s-nest and shark’s-fin soups, barbecued pig, crystal prawns, and minced squab with lettuce.
In the Royal Princess Hotel, 112 Chang Klan Rd. Tel. 0 5328-1033. Reservations recommended. Main courses 250B–1,400B ($5.70–$32). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–2:30pm and 6:30–10pm.
Le Coq d’Or FRENCH In a romantic English country house setting, Le Coq d’Or is second to none in Chiang Mai for excellent atmosphere, food, presentation, and service. Professional waiters serve from a list of imported beef, lamb, and fish prepared in French and Continental styles. Presentation is done in fine white linen and real china. Try the chateaubriand, rare, with a delicate gravy and béarnaise on the side. The poached Norwegian salmon is a fine, light choice. For starters, try the Foie Gras or a unique salmon tartar wrapped in smoked filet and served with toast, a sour cream and horseradish sauce, and capers. They have a nice wine list to complement your meal. Don’t wait for a special occasion.
68/1 Koh Klang Rd. (5-min. drive south of the Westin, following the river).Tel. 0 5328-2024. Reservations recommended for weekend dinner. Main courses 320B–1,800B ($7.80–$44). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12–2pm and 6–10:30pm.
The Gallery THAI Built in 1892 and one of the oldest original wooden structures in Chiang Mai, The Gallery is the most tranquil and romantic of the choice riverside restaurants on the eastern bank of the Mae Ping river. This was the auspicious spot where, during her visit to Chiang Mai in 1996, Hillary Clinton chose to set sail her Kratong, a small decorated bamboo float, as is custom during the Loi Kratong Festival. If the good senator gives her recommendation, it has to be good, right? And it is. I started with a small appetizer plate of “buildyour-own” dishes that all required more origami skill than I could muster, but it was fun trying to figure it out with the help of a giggling staff. As an entree, the hor mok curry, a popular Chiang Mai dish, was delicious. Candlelight, soft Thai music and a great view of the river and the city’s twinkling lights beyond top off a lovely evening of dining. Bring someone special.
25-29 Charoenrat Rd. (east side of river, north of Narawatt Bridge). Tel. 0 5324-8601-1. Main courses 90B–340B ($2.20–$8.30). AE, MC, V. Daily noon–1am.
Good View THAI/INTERNATIONAL The newest of the big three along the river (see “The Gallery” and “The Riverside” above and below), this place has a more carefree vibe than either. It’s noisy when the live band revs-up and this is where lots of young Thai people come to have sanook (fun) so it’s always busy and that’s either charming or “too much” depending on the individual. The food is good, especially the Thai portion of the menu. I shared a cover-the-table spread of various Thai curries, stir-fries and a few whole fish. The picture menu makes it easy and the staff is friendly as all get-out. Come early, around 6pm, enjoy a good, quiet meal overlooking the river at sunset and then stick around for the band and party on.
13 Charoenrat Rd. (east side of river, north of Narawatt Bridge). Tel. 0 5324-1866. Main courses 70B–250B ($1.70–$6.10). MC, V. Daily 5pm–1:30am.
The House PACIFIC RIM FUSION New on the scene, this cozy bistro breaks new ground in Chiang Mai: a picturesque, refined dining spot catering to the discerning. Set in an old colonial style edifice that’s been lovingly restored and decorated in placid pale tones, the dining room has large windows draped in light curtains and the seating is in rattan chairs around linen-draped tables. An internationally trained and experienced Thai chef works his magic on a constantly evolving menu of regionally-influenced classical dishes, a medley of grilled items, imported steaks, lamb and seafood when available fresh. A good stop for a light lunch when touring or an evening of fine dining.
199 Moonmuang Rd. (just north of Ta Pae gate on the inside edge of the city moat). Tel. 0 5341-9011. Main courses 210B–450B ($5.10–$11). Daily 11am–2:30pm and 6–10:30pm.
Le Grand Lanna THAI Chiang Mai’s most opulent traditional Thai restaurant is indeed grand but serves meals for very little. Just a 10-minute ride east of town toward the town of Sankampaeng, the restaurant is on a large parcel of lush terrain that promises a first class resort in the coming years. Atmosphere is your choice of deluxe Lanna Thai pavilions, various open deck areas, pond-side courtyards among banyan trees or in their theme rooms, either French or Chinese. Come for a drink at least if you’re shopping in Sankampaeng.
Evening meals are all candlelight, outdoor torches and the dulcet tones of traditional music. Presentation is a unique mix of heavy pottery, oversize goblets and local materials like whole pineapple and coconut husk for sauces and curries. For a main course, try the white fish with lemon coleslaw marinade. Curries are delicious and varied. I had gaeng hang lan mop, a dry, fiery red curry that will knock your socks off and best mollified by a sweet mango chutney. Follow up with great homemade ice cream with local litchi or taro flavors.
51/4 Chiang Mai-Sankampaeng Rd. Moo 1 T. Tasala, Chiang Mai 50000 (4km/21⁄2 miles east on Charoen Muang near the end of shopper’s row, follow signs and turn right/south down a small lane). Tel. 0 5326-2569.
Main courses 100B–250B ($2.40–$6.10). AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.
The Riverside THAI/INTERNATIONAL Casual and cool is what Riverside is all about. It’s a tavern with riverside terrace views—make sure you get there before the dinner rush so you get your pick of tables. There’s live music, from blues to soft rock, great Thai and Western food (including burgers), and a full bar. Even if you just stop by for a beer, it’s a convivial place that always has a jolly crowd of travelers, locals, and expatriates. Riverside also operates a dining cruise at 8pm (boards at 7:15pm) for just 70B ($1.70) per person (drinks and dining a la carte). Call ahead.
9–11 Charoenrat Rd. (east side of river, north of Narawatt Bridge). Tel. 0 5324-3239. Main courses 65B–330B ($1.60–$8). AE, MC, V. Daily 10am–2am.
Stefano and La Gondola ITALIAN Stefano is in the heart of town in a colorful alley off of Ta Pae Road and La Gondola overlooks the Mae Ping River. Under the same owner and management, both take you on a pleasant culinary journey from Lanna to Italy. Both spots are lively and popular and offer an extensive catalogue of Northern Italian cuisine, from steaks to excellent pastas. I had a fusilli with cream sauce and big local mushrooms: a delicious departure from curry, rice and noodles. Portions are big, the wine list is deep and there are good daily set menus and specials. La Gondolla is a collection of glass aviaries and balcony seating, certainly the more romantic choice of the two. Stefano, at the city center, has its own more raucous allure with brash decor and a younger clientele, mostly backpackers who dust off the credit card for a bit of a splash-out after long journeys.
Stefano is at 2/102 Chang Mai Kao Rd. (just to the east of Ta Pae Gate).Tel. 0 5387-4189. La Gondola is at Rimping Condo 201/6 Charoenrat Rd. (on the east side of Mae Ping River and north of town near Nakhon Phing Bridge).Tel. 0 5330-6483. Main courses 90B–300B ($2.20–$7.30). AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.
German Hofbraühaus GERMAN/CONTINENTAL Holy schnitzel! Are we still in Chiang Mai? The long, wooden bar, red and white checked tablecloths, a strolling German balladier and bodiced waitresses carrying fistfuls of glasses would tell you otherwise. Authentic German fare tops the menu and this convenient, popular place is usually filled with shoppers in the evening. You can sample fine wurst, schnitzel, delicious Kasseler (smoked pork), fish and chips, spaghetti, or many German favorites, including homemade brown bread. Beer flows freely. Prost!
115/3 Loi Kroa Rd. (at the corner of Chang Klan Rd. around the corner from Night Bazaar).Tel. 0 5327-4027. Main courses 130B–420B ($3.20–$10). AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight.
The Amazing Sandwich WESTERN The recipe is simple here: create your own “amazing” sandwich for eat in or take away. The pallet for your masterwork is a list of ingredients and you simply tick the appropriate boxes to your hearts delight. Even if you are more interested in local food, this is a great place if you want to pack a lunch for any self-guided day trips.
252/3 Phra Pokklao Rd. (near the Thai Airways office). Tel. 0 5321-8846. Main courses 60B–85B ($1.35–$1.90). No credit cards. Mon–Sat 9am–8:30pm.
Aroon (Rai) Restaurant NORTHERN THAI For authentic northern food, adventurous eaters should try this nondescript garden restaurant. Their khao soi, filled with egg noodles and crisp-fried chicken bits and sprinkled with dried fried noodles, is spicy and coconut-sweet at the same time. Chiang Mai sausages are served sliced over steamed rice; puffed-up fried pork rinds are the traditional, cholesterol-lover’s accompaniment. Dishes are all made to order in an open kitchen, so you can point to things that interest you, including the myriad fried insects, and frogs for which this place is famous. They’ve added a new attraction—prepackaged spices and recipes for make-it-yourself back at home.
45 Kotchasarn Rd. (2 blocks south of Tha Pae Gate outside Old City). Tel. 0 5327-6947. Main courses 20B–60B (50¢–$1.50). No credit cards. Daily 9am–10pm.
Art Café INTERNATIONAL This cheery corner cafe has black-and-white tile floors and cozy booths with picture windows overlooking the busy terminus of Ta Pae Rd: a good spot for people-watching, a rest from city touring, or a good spot to pickup free maps and city guides and meet other travelers. I enjoyed a delicious, thin-crust pizza. The menu is ambitious and offers good, familiar fare, from steaks and the aforementioned pizzas to Mexican dishes, meatloaf, cake and coffee.
291 Thapae Rd. (just opposite Ta Pae Gate).Tel. 0 5320-6365. Main courses 50B–260B ($1.20–$6.35). MC, V. Daily 8am–11pm.
Huen Phen THAI Just a short walk south and west of Wat Phra Sing, Huen Phen is a good, authentic local choice when temple touring. They have an English menu, but I recommend peeking in the open kitchen and seeing what looks good to you. It’s a pretty limited menu though. They of course have kao soi, Chiang Mai’s famed noodle stew, but try the specialty: Khanom Jeen Namngeua, a beef stew in a hearty broth. It’ll keep you warm when those storms come blowingin off of Doi Suthep. One small dining room has air-conditioning. You can’t beat the prices here.
112 Rachamangla Rd. Tel. 0 5381-4548. Main courses 15B–50B (35¢–$1.20). Cash only. Daily 9am–12:30am.
JJ Coffee Shop and Bakery INTERNATIONAL A Thai-styled diner, JJ’s reminds me of an American Denny’s and is in fact a local chain with three locations. Each air-conditioned restaurant has spotless tables and booths and big windows facing the street. The extensive menu includes excellent sandwiches and burgers, good fries and all things familiar and the wait staff has personality and can even be a bit caustic and cynical, a comfortable familiarity for the true diner aficionado. Breakfasts are tops, and reasonably priced, with tasty baked goods. The Ta Pae Road branch has a sandwich and salad bar in the evenings—a rare find in Thailand. There’s a second branch at the Chiang Inn Plaza off the Night Bazaar and a third across the river at 129 Lampoon Rd.
Thapae Gate, Chiang Mai.Tel. 0 5323-4007. Main courses 40B–220B (90¢–$5). V. Daily 6:30am–10:30pm.
La Villa Pizzeria ITALIAN La Villa is part of a friendly, Italian-run guesthouse, the kind of place where lots of laughter and the occasional “Ciao, bambina!” can be heard. Light apps like imported prosciutto and sardines are a treat and main courses include fegato alla veneziana (beef liver fried with onions and butter) and tasty pastas. Wood-fired thin-crust pizzas with authentic tomato sauce and vegetable or meat toppings are light and delicious.
Pensione La Villa, 145 Ratchadamnoen Rd. (west of Prapokklao Rd., on left).Tel. 0 5327-7403. Main courses 80B–200B ($2–$4.90). No credit cards. Daily 11am–11pm.
La Gritta ITALIAN Come for their fine lunch or dinner buffets or order from an extensive menu of a la carte entrees ranging from osso buco to homemade pasta. La Gritta is in an elegant Thai-style pavilion adjoining the Amari Hotel to the west of town. The dining room is a feast for the eyes in rich, carved teak and candlelight conspires with a sultry live jazz band to make for a delightful evening. Authentic Italian dishes include fresh pasta done to order at a pasta station and a great wine list compliments any entree. A fine meal.
At the Amari Rincome Hotel, 1 Nimmanhaeminda Rd. Tel. 0 5322-1915. Main courses 190B–520B ($4.65–$12.70); buffet lunch 280B ($6.80); buffet dinner 350B ($8.50). AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and
6:30–10pm.
Kalare Food & Shopping Center, 89/2 Chang Klan Rd., on the corner of Soi 6, behind the bazaar (Tel. 0 5327-2067; call for hours) is where you’ll find a small foodcourt next to the nightly Thai culture show (buy coupons at a booth and then pick what you want from vendors). Nearby and one not to miss is Apple’s Restaurant (Tel. 0 1296-3727; call for hours) where they serve an array of fine Thai dishes, far surpassing anything in the food court.
Kalare Food & Shopping Center, 89/2 Chang Klan Rd., on the corner of Soi 6, behind the bazaar (Tel. 0 5327-2067; call for hours) is where you’ll find a small foodcourt next to the nightly Thai culture show (buy coupons at a booth and then pick what you want from vendors). Nearby and one not to miss is Apple’s Restaurant (Tel. 0 1296-3727; call for hours) where they serve an array of fine Thai dishes, far surpassing anything in the food court.
Bake and Bite is on a small side-street to the south of Ta Pae Gate (6/1 Kotchasarn Rd. Soi 1; Tel. 0 5328-5185) and has tasty baked goods, fine bread and good coffee. (Open Mon–Sat 7am–6pm and Sun 7am–3pm.)
The Crusty Loaf Bakery is run by an Irish-Thai couple and serves good, hearty breakfasts. Find them one long block north of Tha Pae Gate and left down busy Ratwithi in Old City. (24–24/1 Ratwithi Rd.; Tel. 0 5321-4554; call for hours).
The Kafe (127-129 Moon Muang Rd.; Tel. 0 5321-2717; call for hours) is just north of Ta Pae Gate and a good travelers crossroads where you can pickup good information, have a great meal of Thai or basic Western food and throw back a few cold ones.
Chiang Mai has more than 700 temples, the largest concentration outside of Bangkok, and unique little sites are around every corner. In one very full day you can hit the highlights in Old Chiang Mai if you go by tuk-tuk.
Wat Phan Tao, also on the grounds, has a wooden wihaan (Spirit House) and bot (central shrine in a Buddhist temple), reclining Buddha, and fine carving on the eaves and door. After leaving the temple, walk around to the monks’ quarters on the side, taking in the traditional teak northern architecture and delightful landscaping.
Prapokklao Rd. south of Ratchadamnoen Rd. Suggested donation 20B (45¢). Daily 6am–5pm.
King Phayu, of Mengrai lineage, built the chedi (mounds) in 1345, principally to house the cremated remains of King Kamfu, his father. As you enter the grounds, head to the right toward the 14th-century library. Notice the graceful carving and the characteristic roofline with four separate elevations. The sculptural devata (Buddhist spirits) figures, in both dancing and meditative poses, are thought to have been made during King Muang Kaeo’s reign in the early 16th century. They decorate a stone base designed to keep the fragile sa (mulberry bark) manuscripts elevated from flooding and vermin.
These images convey a great deal about the religious, civil, and military life of 19th-century Chiang Mai during King Mahotraprathet’s reign. Samlarn and Ratchadamnoen rds. Suggested donation 20B (45¢). Daily 6am–5pm.
Wat Suan Dok This complex is special less for its architecture (the buildings, though monumental, are undistinguished) than for its contemplative spirit and pleasant surroundings.
Among the main attractions in the complex are the bot, with a very impressive Chiang Saen Buddha (one of the largest bronzes in the north) dating from 1504 and some garish murals; the chedi, built to hold a relic of the Buddha; and a royal cemetery with some splendid shrines.
There is an informal “monk chat” here each week (see the sidebar below). Suthep Rd. (from the Old City, take the Suan Dok Gate and continue 1.6km/1 mile west). Suggested donation 20B (45¢). Daily 6am–5pm.
Wat Chet Yot Also called Wat Maha Photharam, Wat Chet Yot is one of the central city’s most elegant sites. The chedi was built during the reign of King Tilokkarat in the late 15th century (his remains are in one of the smaller chedis), and in 1477, the World Sangkayana convened here to revise the doctrines of the Buddha.
The unusual design of the main rectangular chedi with seven peaks was copied from the Maha Bodhi Temple in Bodh Gaya, India, where the Buddha first achieved enlightenment. The temple also has architectural elements of Burmese, Chinese Yuan, and Ming influence. The extraordinary proportions, the angelic, levitating devata figures carved into the base of the chedi, and the juxtaposition of the other buildings make Wat Chet Yot (Seven Spires) a masterpiece.
Superhighway near the Chiang Mai National Museum (north of the intersection of Nimanhemin and Huai Kaeo rds., about 1km/2⁄3 mile, on the left). Suggested donation 20B (45¢). Daily 6am–5pm.
Wat Chiang Man Thought to be Chiang Mai’s oldest wat, it was built during the 14th century by King Mengrai, the founder of Chiang Mai, on the spot where he first camped. Like many of the wats in Chiang Mai, this complex reflects many architectural styles. Some of the structures are pure Lanna. Others show influences from as far away as Sri Lanka; notice the typical row of elephant supports. Wat Chiang Man is most famous for its two Buddhas: Phra Sritang Khamani (a miniature crystal image also known as the White Emerald Buddha) and the marble Phra Sri-la Buddha. Unfortunately, the wihaan that safeguards these religious sculptures is almost always closed.
North of the intersection of Nimanhemin and Huai Kaeo rds., about 1km (2⁄3 mile), on the left.
What do you say to these tonsured men in orange robes one sees piously padding barefoot around Thailand? The answer is: “Hello. How are you?” Monks, especially seniors, deserve a special level of respect of course but are quite human and the best way to find out is to stop by Mahachulalongkorn University (adjoining Wat Suan Dok east of town on Suthep Road, see above). Every Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 5 to 7pm they welcome foreign visitors for “monk chat,” a classroom venue of small, informal discussion groups where visitors and monks come to connect, share culture and learn about Buddhism from novices eager to explain and of course practice their English. Most find that informal discussion about ones own country or sports goes over best (David Beckham and English Premiere League Football is a favorite), but the more senior monks can give you some insights into Buddhist practice and monastic life.
They also meet for meditation groups and retreats. Call tel. 0 5327-8967 or e-mail thaimonkchat@yahoo.com.
Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Center In the building adjacent to the Three Kings Monument in the heart of the Old City, this new museum houses a permanent exhibit that walks visitors through a tour of pre-history to the present.
Another section houses short-term local exhibits of all types.
Propokklao Rd. Chiang Mai 50200 Tel.0 5321-7793. Admission 90B ($2.20). Tues–Sun 9am–5pm.
The Tribal Museum Formerly part of Chiang Mai University’s Tribal Research Institute, this small exhibit showcases the cultures and daily lives of the hilltribe people of Thailand’s north. It is recommended as a good intro course for those who plan to visit many northern villages.
In Ratchamangkla Park on Chotana Road. Tel. 0 5322-1933. Free admission.Weekdays 9am–4pm.
If you love Thai food and want to learn how to make it, book into a class at the Chiang Mai Cookery School , the oldest establishment of its kind in Chiang Mai. They have five 1-day courses, each designed to teach Thai cooking basics but with a different menu (up to seven dishes) so you can attend as many days as you like and still gain quite a bit of skill. You’ll have hands-on training, and a lot of fun. Classes start at 10am lasting until 4pm, and cost 900B ($20) for the day. Contact them at their main office at 1-3 Moonmuang Rd. opposite the Tha Pae Gate. Look for the RECOMMENDED BY FROMMER’S sign in the window.(Tel. 0 5320-6388; fax 05320-6387; www.thaicookeryschool.com).
It’s best to go with a more established school: International Training Massage, or ITM, has popular courses (conducted in English) for anyone from first-timers to experts. Each 5-day course is 2,400B ($59). Contact them at 17/7 Morakot Rd., Hah Yaek Santitham (Tel. 0 5321-8632; fax 05322-4197).
Chiang Mai’s latest and greatest attraction is the pair of pandas, Chung Chung and Liu Hui, that have just arrived from China. They’ve taken the nation by storm and have become a symbol of Chiang Mai. A gift of the Chinese governement, the Pandas will be on display at the zoo east of town on the road to Doi Suthep (It was just opening-up to visitors at the time of this writing.).
Call ahead (3 weeks advance preferred) at tel. 0 5327-8620. The temple also welcomes day-visitors and it might be a good idea for those considering a course to have a look. Located on a rural road south and west of town (past the airport), the temple is best reached by tuk-tuk, songtao, or rented motorbike.
(Wat Rampoeng, Tambol Suthep, Amphur Muang, Chiang Mai, 50200;
Tel. 0 5327-8620; www.watrampoeng.cjb.net)
For jungle trekking, there are a number of small outfits arranging trips from Chiang Mai, but Contact Travel (www.activethailand.com) is in a category all its own. Combining treks and village stays with multi-sport adventures by jeep, bicycle, and kayak, the folks at Contact can cater a tour to any needs and price range. They also offer more traditional itineraries with elephant treks, visits to caves, and relaxing bamboo raft river trips and their English-speaking guides are the best. Treks from Chiang Mai stop at Lisu, Lahu, and Karen villages. A 2-day/ 1-night trip is 1,300B ($30) per person if you join their regular tour, or 3,900B ($89) per person for a private group trip. A 3-day/2-night trip, which takes you to a greater variety of villages, is 4,300B ($98) per person if you join their regular tour; 5,900B ($134) per person for a private group. For an additional 1,000B ($23) per person you can hire a porter to wrestle your bags along. Their office in Chiang Mai is 73/7 Charoen Prathet Rd. (Tel. 0 5327-7178; fax 05327-9505).
Small operators that cater to the low-end backpacker market offer trips for as little as 500B ($12) per day. This can mean you’ll be in a large group and care and feeding comes at a lower standard, but that’s budget-trekking and there’s a kind of fun in commiseration over post-trek beers. If you want to keep it budget, try the following few companies:
Top North Tours (41 Moonmuang Rd. Chiang Mai; Tel. 0 5320-8788) offers a range of short tours featuring trekking, bamboo rafting and elephant riding.
They’ve been around for a while and are a reliable budget choice, but that means big groups and basic services.
Queen Bee Travel Service (5 Moonmuang Rd. Chiang Mai; Tel. 0 5327-5525) has a whole range of budget trekking services and local cultural tours.
Within the city, a long-tail boat trip along the Mae Ping River is a fun diversion. Head for the boat landing at Wat Chaimongkol on Charoen Prathet Road opposite Alliance Française. A tour lasts about 2 hours and costs 400B ($9.75) with fruit and drinks included. Starting in the city center, you’ll get good views of old teak riverside mansions behind which arise the tall skyline of this developing burg, while on the outskirts of town, villages offer scenes of more suburban and rural living.
In and around Chiang Mai alone there are a grand total of fourteen elephant camps that try to cash-in on the popularity of these gentle giants so you’re sure to pet a pachyderm somewhere on your travels. Elephant camps can be pretty unpleasant though so be warned: at shoddier camps, elephants are drugged to keep them placid and many animals are kept in poor conditions and often abused in the name of entertainment. Choose your elephant camp wisely. By far the best way to interact with the animals is a visit to the Young Elephant Training Center in Lampang (see the Lampang section in “Side Trips from Chiang Mai,” later in this chapter). In and around the immediate Chiang Mai area though, you have your pick of day trips. Just north of town in the Mae Rim Valley you’ll find a number of camps offering packaged programs (all similar) that are fun, especially for kids. Most day-tours include a few hours of hill trekking with groups of three or four in a basket on elephant-back which is followed by ox-cart rides to “primitive” villages setup for tourists and even bamboo rafting back to camp. Of the many, I recommend Maetamann Elephant Camp (535 Rimtai, Maerim, Chiang Mai 50180; Tel. 0 5329-7060).
Out in the fresh air in the hills outside of town you get a slower, closer look at nature, sights, and people. Many small trekking companies and travel agents offer day trips, but we recommend the folks at Contact Travel (73/7 Charoen Prathet Rd.; Tel. 0 5327-7178) for their one-day excursions just north of town or for multiday adventures in the region. Day trips start at 1,500B ($36).
Chiang Mai has a few noteworthy extreme sports venues. In fact, it’s getting hard to go to a tourist area these days without seeing a big roadside crane and having your bravado challenged by poster and flyers around town offering a bungee jump; Chiang Mai is no exception and the crane is located north of town in Mae Rim. Just call tel. 0 5329-8442 if you have the guts, dude. Rock climbers will be happy to have a place to practice at The Peak (28/2 Changklan Rd.; Tel. 0 5382-0776-8), a challenging man-made rock wall just at the back of the Chiang Inn Plaza near the Night Bazaar. Single climbs cost 150B ($3.65) and hourly rates are available. They also arrange trips for climbing the real rocks in the surrounding hills.
Ultra-light aircraft flights have come to Chiang Mai. A small but very organized and safe operation, Chiang Mai Sky Adventures, has a private airstrip north of the city in Doisaket. A 15-minute flight, more or less like a piggy-back ride on the pilot’s shoulders, costs just 1500B ($37) and takes you on a great loop out over a large damn and reservoir and past a spectacular hilltop temple. Unforgettable! They also do flight instruction and certification. Contact Mr. Chaimongkol at tel. 0 5386-8460 (www.skyadventures.info).
Golf is the activity du jour in Chiang Mai, especially among the many Western retirees and vacationing Thais. All courses below are open to the public and offer equipment rental. Call ahead to reserve a tee-time.
• Chiang Mai Green Valley Country Club, located in Mae Rim, 20 minutes north of town on Rte. 107, 183/2 Chotana Rd., (Tel. 0 5329-8249; fax 05327-9386), is in excellent condition with flat greens and fairways that slope toward the Ping River (greens fees: weekdays 1,200B/$29; weekends 2,000B/$49).
• Lanna Golf Club, on Chotana Road 2km (11⁄4 miles) north of the Old City (Tel. 0 5322-1911; fax 05322-1743) is a challenging, wooded 27 holes and a local favorite with great views of Doi Suthep Mountain (greens fees: weekdays 600B/$15; weekends 800B/$20).
One look into the eye of an elephant tells you that the lights are on and the gears are working: these are incredibly intelligent, thinking, feeling creatures and any close contact with the animals will make a conservator of anyone. It is thus that a recent trend is quite upsetting: Though banned in Bangkok (a rule that is being enforced more rigorously these days), many young mahouts march their steeds around town and beg tourists to pay for small treats for the animal. The practice should not be encouraged because the animals are treated badly and often rented-out like a livery taxi for an evening of work. Elephant advocates simply ask visitors to discourage the practice by not giving money to the mahouts even if buying food seems philanthropic (it is hard to resist feeding these animals). Instead, visit elephants at any of the better elephant camps.
• Chiang Mai–Lamphun Country Club, Baan Thi Road, 10km (6 miles) east of Sankamphaeng (Tel. 0 5324-8397; fax 05324-8937), located in a valley to the east, is a fine 18-hole course (greens fees: weekdays 1,400/$34; weekends 1,800B/$44).
There are a few very fine day-spas in and around Chiang Mai:
The Four Seasons Resort (Mae Rim–Samoeng Old Rd., Mae Rim; Tel. 0 5329-8181) has some of the finest spa facilities in Thailand and, though it comes with a high price-tag, the quality and service is over the top.
Baan Sabai (on 17/7 Charoen Prathet Rd.; Tel. 0 5328-5204; or 216 Moo 9, San Pee Sua; Tel. 0 5385-4775) is the bridge between the expensive services of a five-star spa and the affordable street-side places. You get the best of both worlds here: a stylish facility and escape for a few hours at affordable rates at either their convenient in-town hideaway (near the Night Bazaar) or the more spacious “Village” just northeast of town.
Let’s Relax, located in Chiang Mai Pavilion (on the second floor above
McDonald’s, 145/27 Changklan Rd.; Tel. 0 5381-8498) and with another location in the basement of Chiang Inn Plaza (100/1 Changklan Rd.; Tel. 0 5381-8198) has affordable massages and is perfect for a quick rest and recharge when shopping the Night Bazaar area.
If you plan to shop in Thailand, save your money for Chiang Mai. Quality craft pieces and hand-made, traditional items still sell for very little and large outlets for fine antiques and high-end goods abound in and around the city. Many shoppers pickup an affordable new piece of luggage to tote their finds home and, if you find that huge standing Buddha or oversized Thai divan you’ve been searching for, all shops can arrange shipping.
Thailand has a rich tradition of handicrafts, developing over centuries of combining local materials, indigenous technology and skills from Chinese and Indian merchants. Drawing on such ancient technologies and the abundance of hardwoods, precious metals and stones, raw materials for fabrics and dyes, bamboo, and clay, modern craftsmen have refined traditional techniques and now cater their wares to the modern market. Below is a breakdown of what you might find: Tribal weaving and craftwork is for sale everywhere in the Lanna capital and you can come away with some unique finds.
Hilltribe embroidery crafts have been modified over the years, so you can find their delicate styles on anything from chic shoulder bags and backpacks to authentic hilltribe skirts and shirts.
The hilltribes’ hand-woven textiles are rich in texture and natural tones, colored with plants from local sources. Cool, handsomely simple, hilltribe designs are in ready-made cotton clothing and can be found anywhere for a song.
Fine silver works are synonymous with Chiang Mai. Early smiths are believed to have immigrated from Burma with the coming of Kublai Khan, and skills have been passed from generation to generation. While silver is not a local resource, early raw materials were acquired from coins brought by traders. Traditional bowls feature intricate raised floral designs—the deeper the imprint, the higher quality the silver (some up to 80%). Jewelry items are crafted in delicate filigree designs in styles copied by many Western manufacturers. Many families set up shop along Wulai Road, south of the Old City, while outlets on Sankamphaeng Road carry large selections.
Gemstones can be good buys here, but like in the rest of Thailand you must be very careful of jewelry scams, overcharging, or the old bait-and-switch. Don’t do any shopping with a tuk-tuk driver as a guide. Try the Sankamphaeng area.
Thai silk is big in Chiang Mai and outlets on Sankamphaeng Road have a larger quantity to choose from. The early royals commissioned carvers to produce wood furnishings for use in palaces, thrones, temple doors and adornments, carriages, pavilions, howdahs for riding elephant back, and royal barges. The excellent quality of hardwoods in Thailand’s forests allowed these items to be adorned with grand and intricate wood carvings. The skills survived and talented craftspeople still produce furniture, boxes, and all varieties of gift items imaginable. Wood carving now is perhaps more influenced by foreign preferences and most pieces are mass-produced.
Lacquer skills came from China with early migrants. Sap is applied in layers to wooden, clay, or bamboo items and can be carved, colored, and sometimes inlayed with mother-of-pearl for a very elegant finished product. Today it is acknowledged as a traditional Chiang Mai craft, having been perfected over centuries by the Khoen people who live in communities outside the city. Laquerware vases, boxes, bangles, and traditional items are lightweight gifts, practical for carrying home. Larger tiered boxes and furnishings can be shipped.
Celadon pottery is rough finished and elegantly simple in tones of the palest gray-greens. The distinctive color of the glaze comes from a mixture of local clay and wood ash. Chiang Mai has some of the largest and best celadon factories in the country. The best places to purchase celadon are out on Sankamphaeng Road, in the large factory outlets.
Authentic antiques are few in the tourist areas of Chiang Mai. As anywhere, the rule is “buyer beware” and if you do get your hands on the genuine article (some shops offer certificates of authenticity) you may have a problem getting it home (see “Export of Antiques or Art in Thailand” in chapter 2).
For many, the Night Bazaar is the city’s premier attraction and hours spent wandering amid the cacophony of hawkers, noisy haggling and all manner of traditional goods and electronic tchotchkes are part and parcel of the city’s charms.
Located on north to south running Chang Klan Road between Tha Pae and Loi Kroa roads, the shopping starts around 6pm each night and slows down at about 11pm. The actual Night Bazaar is a modern, antiseptic, three-story building, but the indoor and outdoor market extends south to Sri Dornchai Road and far beyond. Many shops and stalls remain open throughout the day and evening too, especially along Chang Klan Road.
The top floor has booths selling locally produced handicrafts, some “antiques,” and decorative arts. The Anusarn Night Market, down Charoen Prathet Road, south of Suriwongse Road, carries more hilltribe goods in authentic traditional styles. The Warowot Market on Changmoi and Wichayanon roads opens every morning at 7am and stays open until 4pm. This central indoor market is the city’s largest. Produce, colorful fruits, spices, and food products jam the ground floor. On the second floor, things are calmer, with dozens of vendors selling
cheap cotton sportswear, Thai-made shoes, and some hilltribe handicrafts and garments. Fun and inexpensive.
Small shops and boutiques line the areas around the market and Old Town, luring visitors from the many nearby hotels with unique finds. A short wander in any direction is sure to bring you past a tantalizing shop door. Try: Ginger (39/1 Loi Kroh; Tel. 0 5320-6842) carries designer clothing and jewelry. Sleek designs steal the show at Living Space (276–278 Tha Pae Rd.; Tel. 0 5387-4299) with its collection of fine home furnishing and celadon and laquerware decorative items.
Nova Collection (201 Tha Pae Rd.; Tel. 0 5327-3058) carries a unique line of decorative jewelry in contemporary styles with Asian influences. They make custom pieces and even offer courses in metalwork and jewelry making. Princess Jewelry (41 Changklan Rd. near Chiang Inn Plaza; Tel. 0 5327-3648) offers customized and ready-made jewelry and good personalized service. Mengrai Kilns
(79/2 Araks Rd., Soi Samlarn 6; Tel. 0 5327-2063), is in the southwest corner of the old city and specializes in fine celadon and decorative items. There are lots of silk dealers and tailors in and around town of varying quality. Try City Silk (336 Tha Pae Rd., 1 block east of the gate; Tel. 0 5323-4388) among the many for good selection and affordable tailoring.
At 95 Nimanhemin Rd. across from Amari Rincome Hotel, Nantawan Arcade has many notable antiques, crafts, and curio shops that make for fun browsing. Try: Gong Dee Gallery (Tel. 0 5321-5768) has an extensive collection of gifts and original artwork, the most comprehensive collection in Nantawan Arcade.
Design One (Tel. 0 5335-7204) has an extensive collection of designer teak furnishings.
Tawan Decor (Tel. 0 5389-4941) features a host of unique knickknacks and furnishings. These are but a few.
WULAI ROAD
Here’s the home of Chiang Mai’s cottage silver crafts industry located just south of Chiang Mai Gate. Siam Silverware (5 Wua Lai Rd., Soi 3; Tel. 0 5327-9013) tops the list of many offering fine crafted jewelry and silverwork.
Shopaholics will be thrilled by the many outlets along the Chiang Mai-Sankamphaeng Road (Rte. 1006). Rent your own wheels or hop on the white songtao that follow this busy road due east of town. After several kilometers you’ll reach the many shops, showrooms and factories extending along a 9km (51⁄2 miles) strip. Talk to any concierge or travel agent about a full or half-day shopping tour.
The many shops along Sankamphaeng feature anything from lacquerware to ready-made clothes, silver to celadon pottery. Among the many, try: Laitong Lacquerware (140/1–2 Moo 3, Chiang Mai-Sankamphaeng Rd.; Tel. 0 5333-11178) carries a host of fine lacquer gifts (among other items). Some of the smaller items, like jewelry boxes, can be quite lightweight, so you won’t have to lug 10 tons home with you. Saa paper cards (with pressed flowers), stationery, notebooks, and gifts are not only top quality, but they’re perfect for light travelers.
For larger housewares and objets d’art, Pa Ker Yaw Basket & Textile, 136/1 Moo 2, Sankampheang Road ()05333-8512), deals in fabulous baskets of all shapes and sizes, featuring weaving techniques from hilltribes in Thailand, Burma, Laos, and Vietnam. For a large selection of celadon ware in traditional Thai designs, Baan Celadon, 7 Moo 3, Chiang Mai-Sankamphaeng Road (Tel. 0 5333-8288); and Siam Celadon, 38 moo 13, Chiang Mai-Sankamphaeng Road (Tel. 0 5333-1526), have the best selections. Smooth and lustrous vases, jars, bowls, and decorative objects spring to life from local hardwoods, you’d almost think these turned wood products were porcelain. Aroon Colorware, 67 Moo 4, Baan Sankaokaepgang (Tel. 0 5388-1605), turns out mod gifts—very unique.
When you’re ready for a little fashion, let Jolie Femme Thai Silk, 8/3 Sankamphaeng Rd. (Tel. 0 5324-7222), hit the spot. Weaving traditional silks in rich colors, they fashion much of their stock into modern ready-to-wear creations.
There’s also Shinawatra Thai Silk, 145/1–2 Sankamphaeng Rd. (Tel. 0 5333-8058). An outlet of the high-quality Bangkok chain, rivaled only by Jim Thompson’s in Bangkok, Shinawatra sells hand-woven and hand-painted silk and cotton by the meter, a wide range of men’s and women’s conservative silk fashions, cushions, drapery, ties, and dozens of silk accessories.
Many of the handicrafts you find in town and out at Sangkamphaeng Road are the fine work of local villagers around Chiang Mai. They welcome visitors to their villages to see their traditional craft techniques that have been handed down through generations. Purchase these items directly from the source, sometimes at a savings.
East of Chiang Mai, Sri-pun-krua (near the railway station) specializes in bamboo products and lacquerware. Near Sangkamphaeng Road, the village of Tohn Pao (about 8km/5 miles outside the city) produces saa paper products; Bor Sarng (10km/6 miles outside the city) is a nationally renowned center for painted paper umbrellas and fans; and Baan Tohn (13km/21 miles outside the city) makes fine wood carvings, in addition to umbrellas. Just to the south, Pabong (about 6km/33⁄4 miles down Superhighway 11) manufactures furnishings and household items from bamboo.
South of the city, Muang Goong (along Hwy. 108) is a center for clay pottery; Roi-Jaan (about 8km/5 miles along the same highway) weaves cottons, dying them in natural colors extracted from natural products; while Tha-wai (14km/81⁄2 miles south) has families that craft carved wood antique reproductions.
For a more studied cultural performance, the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Center, 185/3 Wulai Rd. (Tel. 0 5327-4093), stages a good show at 7pm every night for 270B ($6.60), which includes dinner and the show. Live music accompanies female dancers in handsome costumes who perform traditional dances. In between sets, men dance with knives and swords. A khan toke dinner is served, and despite the crowds, the wait staff is attentive. Yes, it’s touristy—busloads find their way here—but it’s a good time. Call ahead, and they’ll plan transportation from your hotel.
Most discos and lounges, located in major hotels, feature live music, whether it’s a quiet piano bar or a rock pub featuring a Filipino band. Good View (13 Charoenrat Rd.; Tel. 0 5324-1866) and The Riverside (9/11 Charoenrat Rd.; Tel. 0 5324-3239), are both popular restaurants along the Mae Ping River (see “Where to Dine,” earlier in this chapter) and feature live music after 8pm and on into the evening. Directly east of the Night Bazaar and in the large compound of the old Diamond Hotel, River Bar (33/11 Jarenprathat Rd.; Tel. 0 5320-6169), has live music nightly and is always full. The Amari Hotel’s La Gritta (see “Where to Dine,” earlier in this chapter; 1 Nimmanhaeminda Rd.; Tel. 0 5322-1130) has a good jazz band every Saturday night. The small streets in and around Ta Pae as well as along Loi Kroh Rd. are the town’s small red-light district with red-lit hostess clubs (with girls cooing “Where you go?” from the doorway), small massage storefronts and lots of street-side bars.
The Bubble Disco in Pornping Tower (see “Where to Stay,” earlier in this chapter; 46 Charoen Prathit Rd.;Tel.0 5327-0099), and Crystal Cave Disco at Empress Hotel, Chang Klan Road (Tel. 0 5327-0240), are two popular haunts but seem to take turns getting shut down. Pickup a copy of Welcome to Chiang Mai & Chiang Rai magazine at your hotel for listings of special events.
If you have time for only one day -trip, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, Chiang Mai’s famed mountain and temple, is the best choice. If you have more time, make the journey to Lamphun or to the Elephant Training Camp in Lampang.
The jewel of Chiang Mai, Wat Phra That glistens in the sun on the slopes of Doi Suthep mountain. One of four royal wats in the north, at 1,000m (3,250 ft.), it occupies an extraordinary site with a cool refreshing climate, expansive views over the city, and the mountain’s idyllic forests, waterfalls, and flowers.
The original chedi was built to a height of 8m (261⁄2 ft.). Subsequent kings contributed to it, first by doubling the size, then by adding layers of gold and other ornamentation to the exterior. The gilded-copper decorative umbrellas around the central chedi and the murals showing scenes from the Buddha’s life are especially attractive.
Visitors with exposed legs are offered a sarong at the entrance. Most Thai visitors come to make an offering—usually flowers, candles, incense, and small squares of gold leaf that are applied to a favored Buddha or to the exterior of a chedi—and to be blessed. Believers kneel down and touch their foreheads to the ground three times in worship. Some shake prayer sticks to learn their fortune.
Wat Phra That is open daily 7am to 5pm; come early or late to avoid the crowds; the suggested donation is 20B (45¢). To get there, take the minibus from Chang Puak (White Elephant) Gate on the north side of the Old City. The fare is 35B (80¢) going up and 25B (55¢) for the descent. The ride can get cool, so bring a sweater or jacket. The bus stops at the base of the naga staircase. If you’d rather not climb the 290 steps—a special part of the experience—there’s a motorized gondola to the top for 5B (10¢). You can simplify matters by booking a half-day trip though any tour agency for 600B ($15), including a stop at Phuping Palace.
You really have to dress conservatively for this one. Military guards at the gate act like the fashion police—tuck in your shirt, unroll your trousers, don’t tie your sweater around your waist, and anything else they think is unacceptable for a royal palace. The Doi Suthep minibus continues to the Phuping Palace from Wat Phra That (see above).
LAMPHUN
The best way to get there is by car, taking the old highway Route 106 south to town. The Superhighway no. 11 runs parallel and east of it, but you’ll miss the tall yang (rubber) trees, which shade the old highway until Sarapi, and the bushy yellow-flowered khilik (cassia) trees. Buses to Lamphun and Pasang leave from the Chang Puak Bus Station (Tel. 0 5321-1586); the 45-minute ride costs
7B (15¢).
Lamphun and Pasang (to the south) are also popular with shoppers for their excellent cotton and silk weaving. The highlight of Lamphun is Wat Phra That Hariphunchai , one of the most striking temples in all of Thailand. (Wat Phra That Doi Suthep was modeled after it.) The central chedi, in Chiang Saen style, is said to house a hair of the Buddha and is more than 45m (150 ft.) high and dates from the 9th century, when it was built over a royal structure. The nine-tiered umbrella at the top contains 6,498.75 grams of gold, and the chedi’s exterior is faced with bronze.
Also of interest in the temple complex are an immense bronze gong (reputedly the largest in the world), and several wihaan (rebuilt in the 19th and 20th c.) containing Buddha images. According to legend, the Buddha visited a hill about 16km (10 miles) southeast of town, where he left his footprints; the site is marked by Wat Phra Bat Tak Pha. During the full-moon day in May, there’s a ritual bathing for the Phra That.
The new Hariphunchai National Museum, Amphur Muang (Tel. 0 5351-1186), is across the street from Wat Phra That Hariphunchai’s back entrance. It’s worth a visit to see the many bronze and stucco religious works from the wat. The museum also contains a fine collection of Dvaravati- and Lanna-style votive and architectural objects. Open Wednesday to Sunday 9am to noon and 1 to 4pm; admission 30B (70¢).
Wat Chammadevi (Wat Kukut) is a large complex located less than 1km (2⁄3 mile) northwest of the city center. The highlights here are the late Dvaravati-style chedis, and Suwan Chang Kot and Ratana, built in the 8th and 10th centuries respectively, and modeled on those at Bodha Gaya in India. The central one is remarkable for the 60 standing Buddhas that adorn its four corners. The wat itself was built by Khmer artisans for King Mahantayot around A.D. 755. The relics of his mother, Queen Chammadevi, are housed inside, but the gold-covered pagoda was stolen, earning this site its nickname Kukut (topless).
LAMPANG
Lampang is graced with some of the finest Burmese temples in Thailand and supports the celebrated Young Elephant Training Camp nearby (see below). Because of the region’s fine kilns, there are dozens of ceramics factories producing new and “antique” pottery. For visitor information, contact the Lampang District Tourist Center, Boonyawat Road near the central clock tower (Tel. 0 5421-8823).
The easiest way to reach Lampang is by car, taking the old highway Route 106 south to Lamphun, then Superhighway no. 11 southeast for another 64km (40 miles). Buses to Lampang leave regularly thought the day from Chiang Mai’s Arcade Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 5324-2664). The 21⁄2-hour trip costs 60B ($1.45).
For a lunch break or an overnight sojourn, the Wienglakor Hotel (138/35 Phaholyothin Rd.; Tel. 0 5431-6427) is the best choice in town. Standard rooms start at 1,800B ($44) and are comfortable and clean with all the right amenities and there’s a nice pool and good dining choices in and around the formal lobby area. Tipchang Hotel, (54/22 Tarkraonoi Rd.; Tel. 0 5422-6501; fax 05422-5362) is a close second.
Lampang’s wats are best toured by car or taxi. Wat Phra Kaeo Don Tao is on Tambon Wiang Nua, 12km (7 miles) southwest of the town center. For 32 years, this highly revered 18th-century Burmese temple housed the Emerald Buddha that’s now in Bangkok’s Wat Phra Kaeo. Legend has it that one day the prince of Chiang Mai decided to move the Emerald Buddha from Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai. His attendants traveled there with a royal elephant to transport the sacred icon. But when the elephant got to this spot, it refused to go on to Chiang Mai with its burden, and so a wat was built here to house the image.
There’s an impressive carved wooden chapel and Buddha; a 49m (162-ft.) –high pagoda houses a strand of the Buddha’s hair. Poke around in the small Laan Thai Museum to the left of the entrance; it contains some fine woodwork and old phra wihaan (Spirit House).
The small Phra Kaeo Don Tao image wears a gold necklace and stands on a gold base; it’s locked behind two separate sets of gates and is very difficult to see.
The Young Elephant Training Center (on the Lampang-Ngao Highway; Tel. 0 5422-9042) is 54km (33 miles) east of Lampang. It’s not a tourist site per-se and nothing like the pony-ride atmosphere of most elephant camps; instead, the focus at the Young Elephant Training Center is on the animals. Visitors here are not spectators, but participants in a hands-on seminar with these complex and intelligent creatures (be ready to get dirty and be up close with these jumbos). The elephants are not chained but roam free over the grounds and sleep al fresco in the jungle each night, coming to the central area at prescribed times for feeding and training sessions (watch out because the animals come running to get treats like sugar-cane and bananas). One-day courses show participants the basics of being a mahout, or elephant trainer, first how to climb onto its back and, straddling the neck, to speak the extensive “language” of the elephants (a dialect of the Karen people) and command movement: there is no comparison (nor going back) to sitting in the usual bucket on elephant-back at the average elephant camp. Knowledgeable Thai mahouts and a hearty group of expats share their passion for elephants with visitors and their enthusiasm is infectious. They offer multi-day treks (trekkers are assigned their own pachyderm for the journey) and home-stay programs of varying lengths. Many of the elephants are sent here to be rehabilitated after abuse in captivity and there is an on-site veterinary hospital for elephants with debilitating injuries (many victims of land mines from neighboring Laos). Program costs begin at 1,500B ($37) for
1-day programs and go up to 5,000B ($122) for deluxe multi-day treks. It’s pricey for Thailand but more than worth it. Call ahead for info and reservations.
Day visitors are welcome and, if the timing is right, you may be able to hop-on for a quick 50B ($1.20) ride with the help of a mahout.
Thailand’s tallest mountain, Doi Inthanon—2,563m (8,408 ft.)—is 47km (29 miles) south of Chiang Mai. It crowns a 932 sq. km (360 sq. mile) national park filled with impressive waterfalls and wild orchids. Doi Inthanon Road climbs 48km (30 miles) to the summit. Along the way is the 30m (100-ft.) -high Mae Klang Falls, a popular picnic spot with food stands. Nearby Pakan Na Falls is less crowded because it requires a bit of climbing along a path to reach. At the top of the mountain, there’s a fine view and two more falls, Wachirathan and Siriphum, both worth exploring.
The area is a popular day-trip destination for residents of Chiang Mai. Day trips organized by Chiang Mai companies will cost around 1,400B ($32) including lunch and a few other stops for sightseeing. By car, take Route 108 south through San Pa Tong; continue south following signs to the national park. If you travel by private car, you can take a 13km (8-mile) side trip to Lamphun on Route 1015. If you go it on public transportation, take a blue bus to Chom Thong from the Chiang Mai Gate (1 hr.; 19B/45¢), then transfer to a songtao (around 15B/35¢) to the park entrance at Mae Klang Falls.
The lovely Mae Sa Valley area, more developed than Doi Inthanon National Park, is about 20km (12 miles) northwest of Chiang Mai. A rash of condo construction and the sprouting of roadside billboards all indicate that Mae Sa Valley is being developed as a rural tourist resort, but it still has an unhurried feel.
Current attractions include an elephant show (including rides), a snake show, bungee jumping and a nature park, as well as orchid nurseries. Most of these attractions are packaged by Chiang Mai tour operators as a half-day trip costing 700B ($16).
Sixteen kilometers (10 miles) north of the Young Elephants Training Camp is the Chiang Dao Cave (Wat Tham Chiang Dao), one of the area’s more fascinating sites. Two caverns are illuminated by electric lights, and you can see a number of Buddha statues, including a 4m (13-ft.) -long reclining one. The row of five seated Buddhas in the first cavern is particularly impressive. The cave and two connected caverns extend over 10km (6 miles) into the mountain, but you’ll have to hire a local guide with a lantern to explore the unlighted areas. It’s open daily from 8:30am to 4:30pm. It can be included with any itinerary that brings you to the elephant camp, but you may have to request it specifically.
