C E N T R A L T H A I L A N D
Both the geographic and cultural heart of the kingdom, the central region is the birthplace of modern-day Thailand. Kings ruled, empires grew and merchants traded from here, aided by the area’s extraordinary natural features. The soaring mountain ranges separating Thailand from Myanmar (Burma) are the source of several major rivers flowing down to the area’s fertile plains. As well as being historically important, the region is environmentally significant, with some of the largest protected territories in Southeast Asia. Logging and deforestation have reduced much of the natural landscape, but the majority of terrain is still wild forest, jungle and grassland. Deep within the dense vegetation dwell tigers, elephants and leopards. Just north of Bangkok is the former Siam royal capital of Ayuthaya, home to fabled palace and temple ruins. Once one of the world’s great cities, at its peak it was a major hub for trade, art and culture, but these days the pace is far more genteel. Slightly further north is the small town of Lopburi, where monkeys play and scavenge among the Khmer-style ruins. Northwest from Bangkok is Kanchanaburi, the country’s third-largest province. Its natural beauty makes it a popular destination for Thais and tourists, who come to bathe in waterfalls, trek through jungles and kayak along rivers. War veterans make pilgrimages here to remember those who died in WWII when Japanese forces used prisoners of war to build the ‘Death Railway’.
In the mountains of northwest Kanchanaburi are sleepy Thong Pha Phum and Sangkhlaburi. Many ethnic groups live in and around these towns near the border. Few travellers make it this far, but those that do are richly rewarded with a fascinating blend of cultures and beliefs.
Some of the earliest recorded history in the region is made up of Neolithic stone tools and weapons found at the delta of Mae Nam Khwae Noi and Mae Nam Khwae Yai rivers. Several empires, including the Dvaravati and Khmer, later used this region as an important base. During the 400-year Ayuthaya period the area flourished and many Western nations established settlements, but none ever subjugated their hosts. In WWII the Japanese army forced Allied prisoners of war (POWs) and Asian conscripted laborers to build the ‘Death Railway’ around Kanchanaburi. More than 100,000 workers died during the construction due to disease and the brutal treatment meted out by their captors.
Central Thailand experiences the country’s three seasons in equal measure; Kanchanaburi can be basking in sunshine while torrential rain buffets Sangkhlaburi. It is hot from February to June, rainy from June to October, and cool (relatively speaking) from October to January: one constant is the humidity. Within the region there are some variations. Because of altitude, it can be significantly cooler in Sangkhlaburi and surrounding national parks than in other parts of the region. Ayuthaya
and Lopburi sit in a wide-open plain that receives similar amounts of rain and heat as Bangkok.
Most of Kanchanaburi Province is covered by forest, grasslands and mountain ranges. These areas are divided up into national parks, the most popular of which are Erawan and Sai Yok. Si Nakharin, Chaloem Ratanakosin, Khao Laem and Thong Pha Phum parks have fewer visitors but all have accommodation and guides available.
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| Map of Central Thailand |
The people of central Thailand share a common dialect that is considered ‘standard’ Thai simply because Bangkok, the seat of power, happens to be in the region. High concentrations of Chinese are found in the cities of the central provinces since this is where a large number of Chinese immigrants started out as farmers and laborers and then later as merchants. Significant numbers of Mon and Karen live in Kanchanaburi Province. Pockets of Lao and Phuan – the descendents of war captives who were forcibly resettled following Thai raids into Laos over the centuries – can be found in the region’s three provinces of Ayuthaya, Lopburi and Kanchanaburi. Getting There & Away Most people come to central Thailand by bus or train. Buses are quicker, cleaner and usually more comfortable; trains are slower but more scenic and can be more social. Central Thailand is connected to the north and northeast via train. There is a good highway network so it is possible to hire vehicles and travel independently.
Local buses and trains provide a cheap and simple way to get from A to B. In most towns you can catch a private săhm·lór (also spelt sǎamláw; three-wheeled pedicab) or túk-túk (pronounced đúk dúk; motorised transport). These have a set fare for locals which tourists are rarely offered, so it’s important to agree a price beforehand. Lopburi can be covered on foot, Ayuthaya requires a bicycle while in Kanchanaburi you’ll need private transport or help from tour agencies to visit some of the sites.
Ayuthaya is a former Asian powerhouse that today offers fragmented evidence of its magnificent past. This former royal capital was a major trading port during the time of the trade winds, when international merchants were regular visitors. Many traders proclaimed Ayuthaya to be the finest city they had ever seen, with towering temples and treasure -laden palaces. After its sacking by an invading army, the city faded as a power and is now remembered as something of a fallen hero.
Today, thanks to major renovation and restoration work, it’s possible to envisage just how spectacular the ruins would have looked in their heyday. Despite the town’s popularity among tourists, Ayuthaya remains relatively unspoiled and has its own charm. Away from the grassy ruins, the surrounding countryside is changing from an agricultural to manufacturing base as new factories replace the old rice paddies.
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| Map of Ayuthaya |
Ayuthaya is a place of great cultural interest and its proximity to Bangkok ensures it is a popular stop-off destination for visitors as part of their journey north.
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| Ayuthaya, the capital of Siam (the old Thailand) in the past |
Ayuthaya was the capital of Siam for 417 years, between 1350 and 1767, and had strong links to several European nations. At its peak it controlled an area larger than England and France combined, and was a melting pot of culture, art and trade. Its glorious reign ended in 1767 when the invading Burmese army sacked the city, looting most of its treasures. Named after Ayodhya (Sanskrit for ‘unconquerable’), Prince Rama’s city in the Indian epic Ramayana, Ayuthaya emerged as little more than a Khmer outpost to become one of Asia’s foremost cities. The first Westerners arrived from Portugal in 1511 and were so astounded by the city’s beauty that they named it the ‘Venice of the East’. In 1685 French diplomat Abbe de Choisy wrote that Ayuthaya was a ‘large city on an island surrounded by a river three times the size of the Seine, full of French, English, Dutch, Chinese, Japanese and Siamese vessels and an uncountable number of barges, and gilded galleys with 60 oarsmen’.
Ayuthaya had 33 kings, who generally ruled through tolerance rather than violence. Adroit diplomacy ensured no Western power ever took control. After the Burmese sacked the city there was a period of instability until General Taksin emerged and moved the capital to Bangkok.
Ayuthaya continued as a provincial trading town while its ruins continued to crumble or be looted. The Thai Fine Arts Department began restoring the site in the 1950s, and it was designated a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1991.
Central Ayuthaya is effectively an island, situated at the confluence of three rivers (Mae Nam Chao Phraya, Mae Nam Pa Sak and Mae Nam Lopburi). Most of the temple ruins are in the northwest quadrant of the island, and most guesthouses and transportation are in the northeast section. Several major ruins are just off the island. A ring road, Th U Thong, hugs the island’s perimeter. The train station and long-distance northern bus terminal are off the island in the eastern part of town.
Wat Phra Si Sanphet Wat Phanan Choeng Wat Chai Wattanaram Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon Wihaan Mongkhon Bophit
Tourist police (emergency 1155; Th Si Sanphet)
Several shops on and around Soi 2, Th Naresuan have connections for 30B per hour.
Ayuthaya Hospital (Tel. 0 3532 2555, emergency 1669; cnr Th U Thong & Th Si Sanphet) Has an emergency centre and some English-speaking doctors.
ATMs are easy to find, especially along Th Naresuan near the Amporn Shopping Centre.
Bank of Ayuthaya (Th U Thong near Th Naresuan)
Kasikorn Bank (Th Naresuan)
Siam City Bank (Th U Thong)
Siam Commercial Bank (Th Naresuan)
POST
Main post office (Th U Thong; Open time; 8.30am-4.30pm
Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat and Sun)
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; Tel. 0 3524 6076-7; 108/22 Th Si Sanphet; Open time; 8.30am-4.30pm) The tourist office is on the ground floor of the large white government building. Pick up some maps, then go upstairs for the free interactive display about the history of Ayuthaya .
The main roads on the island are in good condition, but elsewhere there can be potholes waiting to spoil your day. If cycling, put bags around your body, not in baskets where they can be easy pickings for drive-by thieves. Be aware that many crossroads don’t have traffic lights. Thai road rules therefore apply: if you’re bigger and faster, you have right of way. At night several packs of dogs roam the streets. Avoid eye contact and keep your distance as some will bite if you get too close.
Only a few of the 400 temples built in Ayuthaya now remain, but the headless Buddha images and slumping stone stairways make an ideal place to conjure up images of a once mighty city. For simpler navigation, we’ve divided up the sites into ‘on the island’ and ‘off the island’ sections. It’s easy to get between the sites by bicycle, and hiring a guide for some historical detail is useful. Most temples are open from 8am to 4pm; the more famous sites charge an entrance fee. A one-day pass for most sites on the island is available for 220B and can be bought at the museums or ruins. The ruins are symbols of royalty and religion, two fundamental elements of Thai society, and so it is important to show respect
The following sites are in central Ayuthaya, within the boundaries of the river, and can be visited over a day or three.
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| Wat Phra Si Sanphet |
The three dominant chedi (stupas) at Wat Phra Si Sanphet (admission 50B) make it a must-see location on any temple tour. Built in the late 14th century, this was the largest temple in Ayuthaya and was used by several kings. It once contained a 16m-high standing Buddha (Phra Si Sanphet) covered with 250kg of gold, which was melted down by the Burmese conquerors.
Adjoining Wat Phra Si Sanphet is this sanctuary hall, which houses one of Thailand’s biggest bronze Buddhas. This 17m-high figure is also one of the kingdom’s most resilient images, having survived both lightning strikes and fire.
In 1955 the Burmese prime minister visited and donated 200,000B to help restore the building, an act of belated atonement for his country’s sacking of the city 200 years before.
Built in 1374 during the reign of King Borom Rachathirat I, the most famous part of
This temple (admission 50B) has a Buddha head embedded among a tree’s maze of roots. Such a blending of nature and religious imagery is auspicious, but no one knows quite how the head ended up there. One theory is that the image was abandoned after the Burmese sacked Ayuthaya, and trees subsequently grew around it. Another idea is that thieves tried to steal the head, but found it was too heavy and so left it at the site. The remaining prang (Khmer-style tower) is the other main feature.
Immediately north of Wat Phra Mahathat, this temple (Ratcha-burana; admission 50B) has one of the best preserved prang in the city. It was
built in the 15th century by King Borom Rachathirat II on the cremation site for his two brothers who both died while fighting each other for the throne. Looters raided the site in 1957 and stole many treasures. Some of the culprits were arrested and a subsequent official excavation of the site uncovered many rare Buddha images in the crypt.
To the west of Wat Ratburana, this temple is a pleasant place to sit among the ruins. The most prominent feature is a central chedi surrounded by singha (guardian lion) sculptures. Local people believe that the temple predated the Ayuthaya period, a claim unsupported by architectural evidence.
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| Wat Suwan Dararam |
This temple in the southeast of the island is worth visiting for the different architectural Thai styles. King Rama I designed the exterior of the older-style uposatha (a temple’s central building, containing Buddha images) while Rama III designed the interior. The slightly bowed line along the temple edge and its relatively plain finish are typical of the period. Next to it is a wí·hăhn (large hall) from Rama IV’s reign, resplendent with a glittering external mosaic and internal paintings depicting the life of King Naresuan.
The interesting models in this center (Tel. 0 3524 5124; Th Rotchana; adult/student 100/50B; À9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) help give a sense of what life was like in old Ayuthaya. Displays also detail village life and aspects of Thai culture.
Most of Ayuthaya’s treasures were stolen or melted down long ago. Some pieces did survive though, and are displayed in this museum (admission 150B; h9am-4pm Wed-Sun). Exhibitions include gold treasures from crypts at Wat Phra Mahathat and Wat Ratburana, and an enormous bronze Buddha head from the U Thong period. Several books on Thai art and architecture are for sale at the entrance.
The grounds of this national museum (Th U Thong; admission 100B; À9am-4pm Wed-Sun) are actually more interesting than its collection of artefacts, sculptures and ancient weapons. The museum, near the banks of Mae Nam Pasak, is within the grounds of Wang Chan Kasem (Chan Kasem Palace), which was built for King Naresuan by his father in 1577.
Behind the elephant ‘taxi’ stand is the Ayuthaya Fighting Show (550B). The 10-strong crew stages 30-minute shows at 10.30am, 11.30am, 1pm, 2pm and 3pm. Their dexterous displays of swords and sticks are a reminder of how wars used to be fought. Each show is quick and slick, and the comic touches are as sharp as the sickles they wave around.
This three- day itinerary will ensure you get to all the major ruins and also see some of the picturesque countryside just outside the city centre.
Start at the Ayuthaya Historical Study Centre then continue down Th Rotchana to the TAT office and its video presentation. Leaving here, turn left and go over the roundabout. On your right is Wat Phra Ram, then make your way to Wat Phra Si Sanphet. Walk through here to get to Wihaan Mongkhon Bophit, then return to Th Si Sanphet and turn right at the roundabout onto Th Pa Thon. Go over a small wooden bridge and turn right onto Th Khlong Thaw. On the left is the entrance to Wat Chetharam and Wat Lokaya Sutha. Return to Th Khlong Thaw and head north. Turn right onto Th U Thong and follow the river east before turning left over another small bridge which leads to Wat Na Phra Meru (opposite). Return to Th U Thong and go east before turning into Th Chee Kun. Pop into Wat Phra Mahathat and neighboring Wat Ratburana.
This three- day itinerary will ensure you get to all the major ruins and also see some of the picturesque countryside just outside the city center.
CYCLING TOUR FACTS
Start Th Rotchana
Finish Th Chee Kun
Distance 10km
Duration four hours
Take the train to Bang Pa In Palace and then continue on to the Bang Sai Royal Arts and Crafts Centre. After lunch, return to Ayuthaya, stopping off on the way at Wat Phanan Choeng (opposite).
Get off the island and visit Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon and the nearby Portuguese settlement. In the afternoon, take a leisurely look around Baan Th Dusit, but be sure to return to the island in time for a sunset boat ride to see the temples at their finest.
On the opposite side of the moat that surrounds central Ayuthaya are several famous temples, as well as ethnic communities that defined the former kingdom’s international prestige. You can reach some sites by bicycle, but others will require a motorbike. Evening boat tours around the island are another way to see the highlights.
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| ฺVery big Buddha image, Wat Phanan Choeng |
This busy, modern temple (admission 20B) is a popular place for many Thai-Chinese to make merit or have their fortunes told. A famous 19m-high Buddha image (Phra Phanan Choeng) sits in the wí·hăhn surrounded by the 84,000 Buddha images that line the walls. A Chinese temple on the grounds ensures there is a constant crackle from exploding firecrackers. Three Buddha images sit in the ordination hall; the central one is a U-Thong image while the flanking ones are Sukhothai style. Merit making is the main activity here, and many worshippers buy bags of fish which are then ritualistically released into the river. Wat Phanan Choeng is southeast of the town. The best way to get here from the island is by ferry (5B) from the pier near Phom Phet Fortress. Your bicycle can accompany you on the crossing.
At the height of Ayuthaya’s power up to 40 ethnic groups settled in the city. The Portuguese were first to arrive, followed by the Dutch, British and Japanese. Up to 2000 Portuguese traders and diplomats lived in the area and there were three Catholic churches. A small group of Thai Catholics still live near the site today. The Portuguese brought guns with them, and this modern weapon helped the Thais defeat the Burmese in 1520. As a result of this victory, the Portuguese were given land on which to build. In 1767 the Burmese invaders burned down the settlement and it wasn’t until 1985 that a Portuguese foundation came to restore the village. Just south of the island, the Portuguese Settlement displays the skeletal remains of 40 Portuguese settlers in an open pit. Look out for the unusual spirit house with figures of St Joseph and St Paul, and a French map which claims the city’s waters were once infested with crocodiles. To the west of the Portuguese Settlement is a Muslim quarter.
Another 5km south of the Portuguese Settlement is the Japanese Village (adult/child50/20B; À8am-5pm). The Japanese settlement was one of the largest foreign contingents, and many settlers were Christians fleeing persecution in their homelands for more tolerant Ayuthaya. A video presentation sets the scene and a giant electronic image of an oil painting by Dutch artists shows just how glorious the city looked in its heyday. Outside the small exhibition hall is a Japanese-style garden.
Just 40 years ago this temple (admission 50B) was immersed in thick jungle. Today it is one of Ayuthaya’s most-photographed sites, thanks
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| Wat Chai Wattanaram |
to its impressive Khmer-style central prang, which stands 35m high. Built in 1630 by King Prasat Thong to honour his mother, the temple is a great place to watch sunsets. The site is west of the island and can be reached on bicycle via a nearby bridge.
Clamber up the 79 steps of this chedi, also known as Golden Monument, for great views of the city. Originally built by the Burmese during a 15-year occupation, the top section was added later by Thais. The statue at the front is a memorial to the all-conquering King Naresuan, who is surrounded here by a rather surreal collection of fighting cocks. Legend has it that when Naresuan was held as a hostage in Burma his invincible fighting cocks helped to secure his fearsome reputation.
Close to Phu Khao Thong is this tribute to the warrior queen, near the spot where she died in 1548 while fighting the Burmese. Visit in the early evening, when Thais come to hang out in the vast grounds.
This temple (Phra Mehn; admission 20B) was one of only a handful to escape unscathed from the Burmese army’s 1767 attack, as it was the invading army’s base. In the bòht (central sanctuary) there’s an impressive carved wooden ceiling showing the Buddhist heavens. Inside the wí·hăhn is a rare green sandstone Buddha from Sri Lanka. It is from the Dvaravati period, making it around 1500 years old. Its prominent facial features and joined eyebrows are typical of the period.
Wild elephants were once rounded up and kept in this krahl (stockade). Each year the king would look on here as the finest beasts were chosen and either put to work or used as war machines. This restored krahl, which has 980 teak logs, is 2km from the center of town.
This group of ruins shows a more rustic side to Ayuthaya. Located just east of the island, the area has picturesque lakes where fishermen while away their time.
This temple is a popular weekend meditation retreat in a leafy courtyard near the temple ruins. Slightly farther down the road is Wat Kudi Dao, which has been abandoned to nature and is quite atmospheric as a result.
This temple is from the early Ayuthaya period and on Wednesday and Saturday evenings plays host to a small market.
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| Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon |
The 7m- long reclining Buddha, draped in a long orange robe, is the main feature at this temple (admission 20B). King U Thong built the monastery in 1357 to house monks from Sri Lanka. The chedi was built later to honour King Naresuan’s victory over Burma. Cycling Tour Start at the Ayuthaya Historical Study Centre then continue down Th Rotchana to the TAT office and its video presentation. Leaving here, turn left and go over the roundabout. On your right is Wat Phra Ram, then make your way to Wat Phra Si Sanphet. Walk through here to get to Wihaan Mongkhon Bophit, then return to Th Si Sanphet and turn right at the roundabout onto Th Pa Thon. Go over a small wooden bridge and turn right onto Th Khlong Thaw. On the left is the entrance to Wat Chetharam and Wat Lokaya Sutha. Return to Th Khlong Thaw and head north. Turn right onto Th U Thong and follow the river east before turning left over another small bridge which leads to Wat Na Phra Meru (opposite). Return to Th U Thong and go east before turning into Th Chee Kun. Pop into Wat Phra Mahathat and neighbouring Wat Ratburana.
If you think the temple ruins look good by day, you should see them at night. Some of Ayuthaya’s most impressive ruins take on an ethereal glow after dark, when they are dramatically illuminated. Wat Ratburana, Wat Chai Wattanaram, Wat Phra Ram and Wat Mahathat are all lit up from 7pm to 9pm. The grounds are closed, but it is still worth strolling past the temples or finding a nearby restaurant to have dinner.
Informal boat tours (from 200B per hour) can be arranged at the pier near the night market or at guesthouses. Several guesthouses offer night tours of the ruins (200B per person). These tours can be cancelled at the last minute if not enough people sign up. If you’d like more in-depth coverage of Ayuthaya history, talk to TAT (Tel. 0 3524 6076; 108/22 Th Si Sanphet; h8.30am-4.30pm) about hiring a guide. A variety of cycling tours are available on and off the island through Ayutthaya Boat and Travel (Tel. 0 2746 1414; www.ayutthaya-boat.com), off Th Rotchana. Two-day trips around the countryside involve staying overnight with a local family and a canal cruise. Festivals & Events In November, the Bang Sai Arts and Crafts Centre is the place to be for the Loi Kratong festival. Hundreds of beautiful lotus-shaped vessels containing candles and incense sticks are set afloat from the riverside. In late January the centre holds its annual fair, complete with traditional song and dance shows. The Thailand International Swan-Boat Races take place on Mae Nam Chao Phraya at the Bang Sai Arts and Crafts Centre every September. Sleeping Backpackers tend to head for Soi 2, Th Naresuan, where there is a modest collection of equally modest guesthouses. Midrange and top-end options can be found along the more scenic riverfront. Look for substantial discounts during the low season (April to November).
Baan Gao Suan (Tel. 0 3526 1732; Ko Kert; r 150-250B) Those after that authentic homestay experience can stay with the village chief, who will arrange some hands-on activities. Talk to TAT for details.
Baan Are Gong (Tel. 0 3523 5592; siriporntan@yahoo.com.sg; off Th Rotchana; s/d 150/350B) In the soi opposite the train station is this gorgeous 100-year-old teak guesthouse, run by a Thai-Chinese family. The 4B ferry to the island is just yards away.
PU Guest House (Tel. 0 3525 1213; 20/1 Soi Thaw Kaw Saw; r 180-550B) Bright and cheery, all PU’s rooms are comfortable, and some come with satellite TV, minibar and air-con. If you need a Japanese-speaking local, this is a good choice.
Tony’s Place (Tel. 0 3525 2578; 12/18 Soi 2, Th Naresuan; r 200-500B) There’s a constant buzz about this place that keeps travellers coming. The rooms offer good value and the service is friendly.
Baan Khun Phra (Tel. 0 3524 1978; 48/2 Th U Thong; s/d 250/600B) This charming teak house, built during the reign of King Rama VI, is packed with surprises – where else are you going to find real Thai swords next to your bed? Most rooms have a shared bathroom, while some dorm-style rooms are available.
Sherwood Guest House (Tel. 08 6666 0813; 21/25 Th Dechawat; r 280-380B) The rooms may not be thrilling, but there is a pool and an expat owner who can offer good advice on experiencing the city. Nonguests can also use the pool (adult/child 50/35B).
Chantana Guest House (Tel. 0 3532 3200; chantana house@yahoo.com; 12/22 Soi 2, Th Naresuan; r 350-450B) With clean, comfortable rooms and helpful staff, the Chantana is a good budget option. Ask for a room with a balcony.
Wieng Fa Hotel (Tel. 0 3524 3252; 1/8 Th Rotchana; r 400-500B;) Retro furniture and an outdoor patio add character to this professionally run hotel. oBaan Lotus Guest House (Tel. 0 3525 1988; 20 Th Pamaphrao; r 400-600B) This charming family-run guesthouse is the pick of the crop. The teak building is a converted school and sits between a wooded area to the front and a lotus pond to the rear.
Elephants have played an integral part in Thai history, helping to fight wars, build cities and transport kings.Today their status, and numbers, have diminished and they are often seen walking city streets begging for bananas. There are only 4000 domestic and wild elephants left in Thailand and, as their natural habitat has been reduced and logging is illegal, their main domestic use is now within the tourism industry.
The Ayuthaya Elephant Palace (Tel. 08 0668 7727; www.elephantstay.com) does its part to raise the profile of the animal, and the mahout. It provides rides for tourists around the city ruins, runs a successful breeding program and holds several innovative promotional activities. Elephants from the kraal even featured in Oliver Stone’s movie Alexander and Jackie Chan’s Around the World in 80 Days. Some of the 90 elephants have turned their trunks to art. Their paintings are so impressive that some have been transformed into dresses and featured in a New York fashion show. Even their dung has a purpose – it’s made into paper, bookmarks and photo albums. The elephants displayed their practical value when they helped recover bodies in Phang Nga following the 2004 tsunami, as they were able to reach places rescue machinery could not access. The centre aims to protect Thailand’s remaining elephants by buying sick or abused animals. Some bull elephants that had killed villagers have been retrained and now provide tourist rides around the ruins. Laithongrien Meepan opened the centre in 1996 after buying his daughter an elephant as a present. He began to understand the importance of the animal within Thai culture and became passionate about restoring its once revered position. Australians Michelle Reedy, a former zoo keeper, and Ewa Narkiewicz run an Elephant Stay program at the site (4000B per day), where visitors learn how to ride, bathe and earn the trust of the animals over several days or weeks. Keeping an elephant isn’t cheap, as they are capable of each munching their way through 150kg of food a day, so elephant taxi rides and the Elephant Stay experience help cover costs. Some of the food comes from a specially designed farm that produces a particular type of nutritious grass, while locals often pop in to donate fruit. The nonprofit organization isn’t set up for tourists to just walk in, but those that do spend time living with the elephants usually come away with a new-found respect and admiration for Thailand’s national animal.
Package tourists tend to occupy most of the midrange and top-end rooms. There are options on and off the island, and while much of the better accommodation may be dated it does come with top riverside views.
Ayothaya Hotel (Tel. 0 3523 2855; www.ayothayahotel.com; 12 Soi 2, Th Naresuan; r 650-3500B) In a great location, the Ayothaya would benefit from renovation but has large rooms and friendly staff. Cheaper rooms are in a separate guesthouse to the rear. Look for low-season discounts.
U Thong Hotel (Tel. 0 3521 2531; www.uthonginn.com; 210 Th Rotchana; r from 1200B) A good midrange option with great service, extensive facilities and comfortable rooms. A free shuttle bus runs into town.
Krungsri River Hotel (Tel. 0 3524 4333; www.krungsririver.com; 27/2 Th Rotchana; r from 1800B) With a scenic river location and large, stylish rooms, this is the plushest pad in town.
River View Place Hotel (Tel. 0 3524 1444; 35/5 Th U Thong; r from 2000B) The best of the on-island hotels, the River View Place Hotel has large, comfortable rooms and a raft of amenities.
Ayuthaya is famed for its sweet Muslim snacks, curries and nám prík (spicy dip). Travelers tend to congregate around Soi 2, Th Naresuan, where there’s a collection of Western-friendly restaurants to be found. Many riverfront restaurants specialize in seafood and have great views of the temples. The bustling undercover Chao Phrom Market (Th Naresuan) has Thai-Chinese and Muslim dishes.
Hua Raw Night Market (Th U Thong) A great evening option, with simple riverfront seating. Along with the usual Thai dishes there are several Muslim food stalls; look for the green star and crescent.
Roti Sai Mai Stalls (Th U Thong; À10am-8pm) Ayuthaya is famous for the Muslim dessert roti sai mai. You make this super-sweet snack yourself by rolling together thin strands of melted palm sugar and then wrapping them inside the roti. Stalls selling this are mainly found opposite Ayuthaya Hospital.
Lung Lek (Th Chee Kun; dishes 30-40B; À8.30am-4pm) Slurp down delicious noodle soup alongside locals while admiring the view of Wat Ratburana.
Tony’s Place (Soi 2, Th Naresuan; dishes 50-180B) Ever-busy, Tony’s guesthouse restaurant has a solid Thai/Western menu, including plenty of veggie nibbles.
Baan Watcharachai (off Th Worachate; dishes 75-150B) This charming, peaceful restaurant is found next to Wat Kasatrathirat. Pick a seat on the wooden boat moored outside and tuck in to some yam plaa dùk fòo (crispy catfish salad).
Sombat Chao Phraya (Th U Thong; dishes 80-140B; À10am-9.30pm) A cosy riverside establishment that specializes in sublime seafood.
Baan Khun Phra (À0 3524 1978; dishes 80-140B; 48/2 Th U Thong) Behind the guesthouse of the same name, this restaurant has a pleasant riverside atmosphere and good Thai, Western and vegetarian choices.
Sai Thong (Th U Thong; dishes 80-140B; À10am-10.30pm) This hugely popular riverside restaurant has an extensive seafood menu and old-school feel.
Rabieng Nam (cnr Th Rotchana & Th Chee Kun; dishes 100-160B; 5pm-midnight) When Thais eat it’s as much about fun as it is about food. That’s evident here, where improvised karaoke sessions take centre stage as the locals munch on snacks.
Ayuthaya isn’t much of a night bird, and most backpackers are content to hang around Soi 2, Th Naresuan after dark.
Jazz Bar (Soi 2) Run by four music-loving locals who often break out the drums and double bass.
Spin (cnr Th Naresuan & Th Khlong Makhamriang) Young Thais sip fruit/vodka combos and munch fried snacks at this funky street bar. Off the island, Ay By Laser (AY) nightclub, near the northern bus terminal, is surrounded by karaoke bars that attracts the city’s party crowd. Getting There & Away
Several tour companies run boats along the river to Bangkok. Boat Step Travel (À08 9744 2672, 1500B) runs daily trips, leaving from Ayuthaya at 11.30am and arriving in Bangkok at 4.30pm.
Ayuthaya has two bus terminals. The long-distance terminal is 5km east of central Ayuthaya and serves destinations north of the city. The provincial bus stop is on Th Naresuan, a short walk from the guesthouse area. Buses from Bangkok arrive two blocks away from the main bus terminal. Buses to Bangkok’s northern terminal (56B, 1½ hours, every 20 minutes) stop by the old Don Muang Airport. If you’re coming straight from Suvarnabhumi International Airport, take a bus to Bangkok’s northern bus terminal, Mo Chit. Minivans go to and from Bangkok’s Victory Monument (65B, two hours, every hour from 5am to 7pm), and leave Ayuthaya from Th Naresuan, west of the main bus terminal. Buses to Lopburi (40B, two hours, every 45 minutes) also depart from the terminal on Th Naresuan. If you’re heading for Kanchanaburi, you’ll need to get a bus to Suphanburi (60B, 1½ hours, every 30 minutes) and then connect to a Kanchanaburi-bound bus for 50B. Large sŏrng·tăa·ou (also spelt sǎwngthǎew; pick-up trucks) leave for Bang Pa In (25B, 45 minutes) every 20 minutes. The ticket office for the northern bus terminal is a five-minute walk from the station. Destinations include Sukhothai (291B to 371B, six hours, hourly departures), Chiang Mai (463B to 596B, nine hours, three evening departures), Nan (444B to 571B, eight hours, two morning and three nightly departures) and Phitsanulok (256B to 329, five hours, frequent departures).
The train station is east of central Ayuthaya and is accessible by a quick cross-river ferry (4B). Trains leave Bangkok’s Hualamphong station for Ayuthaya (ordinary/rapid/express 15/20/315B, 1½ hours) throughout the day with more departures between 7am and 11am and 6pm to 10pm. Schedules are available from the information booth at Hualamphong station. To save time, use Bangkok’s subway system to go to Bang Sue station, where you can hook up with the state railway line.
From Ayuthaya, you can head north to Chiang Mai (ordinary/rapid/express 586/856/1198B, six departures a day), or northeast to Pak Chong (ordinary/rapid/express 23/73/130B, frequent departures), the nearest station to Khao Yai National Park, and Khon Kaen (ordinary/rapid/express 173/265/375B, six hours, four departures a day). Sŏrng·tăa·ou from the station to the city centre charge 60B.
Around every corner is a săhm·lór or túk-túk waiting to ask where you’re going. The golden rule is to agree a price before you get on. For trips on the island itself, the rate is 30B to 40B. The main ruins are close together, so the most environmentally friendly way to see them is by bicycle or elephant. Many guesthouses rent bicycles (30B) and motorcycles (200B). You can take brief rides around the temples by elephant (400B to 500B) or by horse and carriage (300B). The elephants stay at a kraal on Th Pa Thon. Long-tail boat tours around the island (from 200B per hour) can be arranged at the pier near the night market or at guesthouses.
Around every corner is a săhm·lór or túk-túk waiting to ask where you’re going. The golden rule is to agree a price before you get on. For trips on the island itself, the rate is 30B to 40B. The main ruins are close together, so the most environmentally friendly way to see them is by bicycle or elephant. Many guesthouses rent bicycles (30B) and motorcycles (200B). You can take brief rides around the temples by elephant (400B to 500B) or by horse and carriage (300B). The elephants stay at a kraal on Th Pa Thon. Long-tail boat tours around the island (from 200B per hour) can be arranged at the pier near the night market or at guesthouses.
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| Bang Pa In Palace |
8am-3.30pm) is worth viewing simply for its eclectic mix of architectural styles. The European, Chinese and Thai buildings seem incongruous at first, but reflect the influences of Rama V (King Chulalongkorn, r1868–1910). King Chula was a progressive leader who studied Western traditions. After returning from Europe he restored the palace, which was first built in the 17th century. Today there is a replica of the Tiber Bridge in Rome, the Chinese-style Wehut Chamrun, the Victorian-influenced Withun Thatsana, and an elephant-shaped topiary garden. In 1880, Queen Sunanta drowned during a journey to the palace. Thai law forbade courtiers from touching the queen, and so nobody tried to save her. As a result of the tragedy King Rama V changed the law. A marble obelisk in memory of the queen is in the palace grounds. |
| Wat Niwet Thamaprawat |
To reach the palace, take a public sŏrng·tăa·ou (25B, frequent departures) from the provincial bus stop on Th Naresuan. Once the sŏrng·tăa·ou drops you at the Bang Pa In bus station, jump on a motorbike taxi (30B) to the palace, which is 4km away. The alternative is a train from Ayuthaya (3rd class 3B, 30 minutes). The train station is closer to the palace than the bus station, but again you’ll need a motorbike taxi (20B) to complete the last leg. Another 17km southwest of the palace is the Bang Sai Arts and Crafts Centre (Tel. 0 3536 6252; www.bangsaiarts.com; À9am-5pm). Opened back in 1984 with support from Queen Sirikit, this 180-hectare site helps preserve traditional Thai handicraft skills. Farmers create products on-site to help provide a supplementary income during the offseason. Visitors can visit workshops where locals carve wood, dye silk or make knives. Jewelery, clothing and textiles can be bought at the Sala Phra Ming Kwan pavilion and in a purpose-built arts and crafts village.
A Bird Park (admission 20B) and two giant cylindrical aquariums displaying huge freshwater fish from Thailand will keep the younger visitors entertained. To get to the centre, take a train or sŏrng·tăa·ou to Bang Pa In and then hire a motorbike taxi.
Kanchanaburi may be one of Thailand’s largest provinces, but it is also one of the least developed. This is largely thanks to the vast mountain ranges that separate the kingdom from Myanmar, and the fertile fields that produce rice, sugar cane and tapioca. Most visitors head to the provincial capital for a few days, visiting the WWII memorials and going on trekking tours. Outside of the main town there are cascading waterfalls, caves and forests within easy reach. To the north of the province several national parks are home to reclusive tigers, elephants and gibbons, attracting increasing numbers of visitors who are keen to get closer to nature. The town of Kanchanaburi is the best place to book tours and has the greatest choice of accommodation and activities. Head out to the northwest and you’ll discover rarely visited towns and ethnic groups which have escaped the harsh regime in neighboring Burma. It’s easy to spend longer than planned in these frontier towns, where the pace of life is as slow as the fishing boats that drift across the rivers. Areas such as this help dispel the myth that there is nowhere left in Thailand untainted by tourism and development.
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| Map of Kanchanaburi |
Rama I established Kanchanaburi as a first line of defense against the Burmese along an old invasion route through the Three Pagodas Pass on the Thailand-Myanmar border. During WWII the Japanese used Allied POWs to build the infamous ‘Death Railway’ along this same route, from Mae Nam Khwae Noi to the pass. Thousands of prisoners died as a result of brutal treatment by their captors. During the construction of the Death Railway, a Dutch prisoner of war, HR van Heekeren, uncovered Neolithic remains. After the war was over, a Thai-Danish team retraced Van Heekeren’s discovery and concluded that the area is a major Neolithic burial site. Archaeological evidence suggests it may have been inhabited 10,000 years ago.
Kanchanaburi has a mini version of Bangkok’s Th Khao San concentrated along Th Mae Nam Khwae, within walking distance of the train station. Most accommodation is built beside or floating on the river. The commercial strip of the town follows Th Saengchuto. The in-town attractions are too spread out to cover on foot, so you’ll want a bicycle or motorbike to get around.
Tourist police (Tel. 0 3451 2668/2795; Th Saengchuto)
Internet cafes can be found along Th Mae Nam Khwae for 30B per hour.
Thanakarn Hospital (Tel. 0 3462 2366-75, emergency 0 3462 2811; Th Saengchuto) Near the junction of Th Chukkadon, this hospital is best equipped for foreign visitors.
Several major Thai banks can be found on Th Saengchuto near the market and the bus terminal.
AS Mixed Travel (Tel. 0 3451 2017; Apple’s Guesthouse, 3/17 Th Chaokunen) Foreign-exchange service available outside of bank hours.
Bangkok Bank (Th U Thong) Located near Kanakan Mall.
Krung Thai Bank (Th Saengchuto) Near the Death Railway Bridge.
Thai Military Bank (Th Saengchuto) Near the bus station.
Main post office (Th Saengchuto;
8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun)
Many private shops along Th Mae Nam Khwae offer long-distance calls.
CAT (off Th Saengchuto; 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) This office has an international telephone service.
8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) This office has an international telephone service.
TAT ('0 3451 1200; Th Saengchuto;
8.30am-4.30pm) Provides free maps of the town and province, along with advice on what to do and where to stay.
One-day package trips to the waterfalls and war sights are a good way to see the main attractions but don’t give you much time to savor them. All the popular destinations are easy to reach, so an alternative is to use the bus and rail networks and travel independently. The war museums and most caves can be seen in two days. A few more days can then be
spent exploring the other sights, via train or bus. Many parks and caves have a 200B entry fee for foreigners, which works as a one-day pass for all similar locations.
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| THAILAND-BURMA RAILWAY CENTER |
This informative museum (Tel. 0 3451 2721; www.tbrconline.com; 73 Th Chaokunen; adult/child 100/50B; 9am-5pm) is the ideal place to begin your look at Kanchanaburi’s role in WWII. The museum’s nine galleries use images, artefacts and models to explain the history of the railway, how the POWs were treated and what happened to the railway once it was complete. A video from survivors is particularly poignant and ensures that the deaths remain a tragedy, not merely a statistic.
9am-5pm) is the ideal place to begin your look at Kanchanaburi’s role in WWII. The museum’s nine galleries use images, artefacts and models to explain the history of the railway, how the POWs were treated and what happened to the railway once it was complete. A video from survivors is particularly poignant and ensures that the deaths remain a tragedy, not merely a statistic.
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| ALLIED WAR CEMETERY |
Across the street from the museum is the Allied War Cemetery (Th Saengchuto; À8am-6pm), which is immaculately maintained by the War Graves Commission. Of the 6982 prisoners of war buried here, nearly half were British. The rest came mainly from Australia and the Netherlands. It is estimated that at least 100,000 people died while working on the railway, the majority being laborers from nearby Asian countries. For those looking for the graves of a loved one, a small office to the side of the cemetery has lists of names and their locations in the cemetery.
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| DEATH RAILWAY BRIDGE |
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| The prisoners and conscripted workers toiled day and night to build Death Railway in WWII |
Some considered the project impossible but the track was completed despite a lack of equipment and appalling conditions. Construction of the railway began on 16 September 1942 at existing stations at Thanbyuzayat in Myanmar and Nong Pladuk (Ban Pong) in Thailand. Japanese engineers estimated it would take five years to link Thailand and Burma by rail. In reality, the Japanese army forced the POWs to complete the 1m-gauge railway in just 16 months. Much of the work was done by hand with simple tools used to build bridges and carve cuttings into the sides of the mountains. Most bridges were made from timber, which allowed some POWs to attempt sabotage by placing termite nests nearby. As the Japanese demand for faster construction grew, so conditions worsened. The meager rice supplies were often laced with kerosene, a by-product of Allied bombing raids over rice stocks. Cholera, malaria and dysentery were rife, and Japanese guards employed barbaric punishments for anyone who stepped out of line. The rails were finally joined 37km south of Three Pagodas Pass; a Japanese brothel train inaugurated the line. The bridge that spans Mae Nam Khwae Yai near Kanchanaburi was in use for a mere 20 months before the Allies bombed it in 1945. Rather than a supply line, the route quickly became an escape for Japanese troops. After the war the British took control of the railway on the Burmese side of the border and ripped up 4km of the tracks leading to Three Pagodas Pass for fear of the route being used by Karen separatists. On the Thai side, the State Railway of Thailand (SRT) assumed control and continues to operate trains on 130km of the original track between Nong Pladuk, south of Kanchanaburi, to Nam Tok. See p218 for information about riding this historic route. Approximately 40km of the railway is now submerged under the Khao Laem Dam, while the remaining track on either side of the dam was dismantled. Hellfire Pass (Konyu Cutting), one of the most demanding construction points, can be seen today at the Hellfire Pass Memorial.
The Bridge on the River Kwai movie made the waterway famous, and also ensured a generation grew up pronouncing it incorrectly. You should talk about the River Khwae (sounds like ‘square’ without the ‘s’) and not Kwai (sounds like ‘why’). Get it wrong and you’ll be talking about the River Buffalo, which the Thais always find very amusing.
One of the most bizarre sites around, this museum (admission 40B;
8am-6.30pm) has to be admired simply for squeezing so many randomly connected things into one place. The museum is divided into two buildings. Along the front of the smaller building are life-size sculptures of figures connected with WWII, including Churchill, Hitler, Hirohito and Einstein. Inside is a display of Japanese wagons used to transport prisoners, old photographs and unconvincing waxwork models of POWs. Notes about the area’s history are painted on the walls, but the translations sometimes go badly awry, with unfortunate and unintentionally comic results. One sign about the victims of an Allied bombing raid reads: ‘the bodies lay higgledy-piggledy beneath the bridge’. Another says simply: ‘England was pushed into the sea by Dunkirk’. The larger building resembles a Chinese temple and is far more opulent, or garish, depending on your viewpoint. Inside there are displays of ancient Thai weaponry and colorful portraits of each Thai king. The museum is south of the Death Railway Bridge.
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| JEATH WAR MUSEU |
This simple but poignant museum (Th Wisuttharangsi; admission 30B; 8.30am-6pm) resembles the basic, cramped bamboo-atap huts in which POWs were kept. Newspaper cuttings and sketches offer harsh reminders of the brutal punishments meted out to the Allied prisoners by Japanese troops. Among them is the story of surgeon Sir Edward ‘Weary’ Dunlop, who saved hundreds of lives by operating on injured soldiers and fighting to improve basic medical conditions. The museum is run by the monks of Wat Chaichumphon (Wat Tai), and it’s worth coming for the temple itself and the views from the banks of Mae Nam Mae Klong. ‘JEATH’ is an acronym of the countries involved in the railway: Japan, England, Australia/America, Thailand and Holland. The war museum is at the west end of Th Wisuttharangsi (Visutrangsi).
8.30am-6pm) resembles the basic, cramped bamboo-atap huts in which POWs were kept. Newspaper cuttings and sketches offer harsh reminders of the brutal punishments meted out to the Allied prisoners by Japanese troops. Among them is the story of surgeon Sir Edward ‘Weary’ Dunlop, who saved hundreds of lives by operating on injured soldiers and fighting to improve basic medical conditions. The museum is run by the monks of Wat Chaichumphon (Wat Tai), and it’s worth coming for the temple itself and the views from the banks of Mae Nam Mae Klong. ‘JEATH’ is an acronym of the countries involved in the railway: Japan, England, Australia/America, Thailand and Holland. The war museum is at the west end of Th Wisuttharangsi (Visutrangsi)..jpg "LAK MEUANG (CITY PILLAR)"){kind=small}
The city pillar (lák meuang; Th Lak Meuang) is at the centre of the old town and gives shelter to the local spirits. Just down the road is a statue of King Rama III and the renovated city wall, which used to stretch for more than 400m and boast six fortresses. Three original cannons remain.
Chung Kai was the site of a major prisoner camp during WWII, and Allied prisoners built their own hospital and church close to here. Today relatively few people come to see this remote cemetery, which is the final resting place of 1700 soldiers. Most graves have short, touching epitaphs for the Dutch, British, French and Australian soldiers buried here. The cemetery is 4km south of central Kanchanaburi across Mae Nam Khwae Noi and can be easily reached by bicycle or motorcycle.
Continue past the Chung Kai Allied War Cemetery and go over a railway crossing to find this temple (admission 20B;
6am-6.30pm), which has a collection of nine different caves. The first, and biggest cave, is home to a reclining Buddha, while the others have some particularly unusual features, including a fig tree’s roots that hang all the way down into the cave, a crystallized column and a rock formation said to resemble a mermaid from the literature of Thai poet Sunthorn Phu. The exact origins of the temple are a mystery, though it is known that King Rama V visited here in 1870. The caves have a somewhat ignominious history. It is rumored that the Japanese used some of the caves to torture POWs during WWII. In 1995 a British tourist was murdered here by a drug-addicted monk.
If you don’t know your sôm·đam from your đôm yam then Apple & Noi’s Thai Cooking Course (Tel. 0 3451 2017; Apple’s Guesthouse, Th Chaokunen; 1250B) can assist. The one-day Thai cookery course begins at the local market and ends, five dishes later, at the dining table.
Tour companies sell elephant rides, waterfall excursions and rafting tours, but there are many other activities to try. For those with more time, and stamina, cycling tours, canoeing and jungle trekking can all be booked from Kanchanaburi. Some of the main roads offer stunning routes and are best enjoyed by bike, while going off-road provides access to waterfalls and caves that few get to see. Several trips stay overnight in a Mon or Karen village and involve a combination of rafting, trekking and elephant rides. For those with less time, the countryside close to Kanchanaburi is replete with wonderful vistas and a bicycle is an ideal way to see them. One particularly scenic route lies immediately behind the backpacker guesthouses. From the northern end of Th Mae Nam Khwae, cross Sutjai Bridge and bear right. Explore Baan Thamakham and Baan Hua Hin, where lemongrass, corn, tapioca and teak trees soak up the sun while in the distance mist-covered mountains serve as a breathtaking backdrop. Some package tours are cancelled if not enough people sign up, so check before booking. The following agencies are reputable:
AS Mixed Travel (Tel. 0 3451 2017; www.applenoi-kanchanaburi.com; Apple’s Guesthouse, Th Chaokunen) A well-organised company with longevity. Trips can be tailor-made to suit travellers’ preferences, and pockets.
Good Times (Tel. 0 3462 4441; www.good-times-travel.com; 63/1 Tha Mae Nam Khwae) All the standard day trips are available, as well as adventure packages to more remote areas. Cycling tours can be arranged from here.
Along a 1km stretch of Th Mae Nam Khwae there are numerous guesthouses offering simple rooms, usually with riverfront views. Across the river there are midrange and top-end resorts that come with all the bells and whistles you’d expect. The former backpacker mainstay along Soi Th Rong Hip Oi is much quieter these days due to the occasional karaoke cacophony from passing boats, but the disturbances are less frequent than before and there are budget guesthouses available here.
Along Th Saengchuto there are several midrange guesthouses, but the rooms nearer the river are cheaper and have far more character. Check out Kanchanaburi Info (www.kanchanaburi-info.com) for more choices.
The best deals in town can be found along the fast-growing Th Mae Nam Khwae strip. Rooms are basic but often come with great river views. During the peak season, and especially December, it’s wise to call ahead to book a room with a view.
Jolly Frog (Tel. 0 3451 4579; 28 Soi China; s 70B, d 150-290B) It may lack a few of life’s finer things, like towels and flushing toilets, but the backpackers who roll in from Th Khao San don’t seem to mind.
Blue Star Guest House (Tel. 0 3451 2161; 241 Th Mae Nam Khwae; r 150-650B) Accommodation here ranges from backpacker simplicity to comfy rooms with air-con and TV. The mangled-looking wood on the riverfront bungalows is impressive.
Pong Phen (Tel. 0 3451 2981; www.pongphen.com; Th Mae Nam Khwae; r 150-900B) Comfortable rooms, a good restaurant and a pool make Pong Phen stand out from the rest. Most rooms are centered on the pool rather than the river.
Bamboo House (Tel. 0 3462 4470; 3-5 Soi Vietnam, Th Mae Nam Khwae; r 200-500B) Set a little way from the main action, the river raft rooms and spacious garden give the place a genuine away-from-it-all vibe.
Apple’s Guesthouse (Tel. 0 3451 2017; www.applenoi-kanchanaburi.com; 3/17 Th Chaokunen; r with fan/air-con 450/650B) Apple and Noi’s new guesthouse comes with the same hospitality and expertise as their old one. Noi’s one-day Thai cooking courses are popular.
VN Guest House (Tel. 0 3451 4082; www.vnguesthouse.net; 44 Soi Th Rong Hip Oi; r 250-450B) Away from the main strip, these simple raft-house rooms have some of the best views of the river, but you may have to put up with the odd passing karaoke boat. Sam’s House (Tel. 0 3451 5956; www.samsguesthouse.com; Th Mae Nam Khwae; d 450-600B) Bright and airy from reception to terrace, rooms are basic but come with some of the finest views of the lotus-covered water. Fan rooms are particularly good value.
Many mid-range places offer discounts during the low season (April to November), but reservations should be made in advance.
Ploy Guesthouse (Tel. 0 3451 5804; www.ploygh.com; 79/2 Th Mae Nam Kwai; r 600-950B) Stylish and chic, this guesthouse stands head and shoulders above its budget-style neighbors. Outside bathrooms and a pleasant rooftop terrace are great extra touches.
The rivers running through Kanchanaburi look to be among the most peaceful places you could hope to find. They are generally quiet and tranquil, but come nightfall the karaoke/disco boats pump up the volume and serenity is forced to take a back seat. Every weekend, Bangkokians and many Asian tourists are bussed in and taken onboard karaoke boats. The commotion used to make guesthouses along Soi Rong Hip Oi very unappealing, but now the all-nighters have stopped and they are just a temporary nuisance as they go by.
The rivers running through Kanchanaburi look to be among the most peaceful places you could hope to find. They are generally quiet and tranquil, but come nightfall the karaoke/disco boats pump up the volume and serenity is forced to take a back seat. Every weekend, Bangkokians and many Asian tourists are bussed in and taken onboard karaoke boats. The commotion used to make guesthouses along Soi Rong Hip Oi very unappealing, but now the all-nighters have stopped and they are just a temporary nuisance as they go by.
Thai Garden Inn (Tel. 08 5819 1686; www.thaigardeninn.com; 74/11 M4 Baan Tamakahm; r 650-850B) Set just behind bustling Th Mae Nam Khwae is this peaceful 11-bungalow resort. Rooms are tastefully furnished with natural materials, while the upstairs restaurant is the place to be come sunset.
Kasem Island Resort (Tel. 0 3451 3359, in Bangkok 0 2255 3604; r 800-1600B) Located on an island in Mae Nam Mae Klong, here you can sit by your balcony and dip your toes in the water. Terraces and pavilions make great places from which to view the surrounding scenery. A free shuttle boat runs to and from Th Chaichumphon.
Bousawan Resort (Tel. 0 3451 4324; off Th Mae Nam Khwae; r 1000B) This gorgeous Thai-style resort with bungalows and raft rooms set among spacious grounds is a little removed from the main area, so transport is required.
Although the following places fall into the top-end category, they do vary in quality. Most resorts are north of the bridge on either side of the river. Shop the online booking services for discounts.
River Kwai Hotel (Tel. 0 3451 3348; www.riverkwai.co.th; 284/3-16 Th Saengchuto; r from 1500B) The best option for those wanting to stay in the centre of town, but the rooms are unremarkable. The hotel includes ‘Glitzy’, the only nightclub in town.
Royal River Kwai Resort and Spa (Tel. 0 3465 3297; 88 Kanchanaburi-Saiyok Rd; r from 2450B) Beautiful grounds and chic rooms make this a splendid resort. The spa, with riverfront rooms, has a range of health treatments.
Felix River Kwai Resort (Tel. 0 3455 1000; www.felixhotels.com; r from 3500B) Kanchanaburi’s granddaddy of resorts is starting to show its age but it remains a luxurious option with all manner of facilities.
Food options are numerous in Kanchanaburi. The night market (Th Saengchuto; Open; Thu-Tue) near the train station has a busy food section offering satays, shakes and even sandwiches. Food stalls light up the roadside close to the River Kwai Hotel on Th Saengchuto, while down by Th Song Khwae there are some good-quality floating restaurants, which are usually full of package-company tourists. Th Mae Nam Khwae has many Western-style restaurants. The market (Th Saengchuto) near the bus station is well known for its excellent hŏy tôrt (fried mussels in an egg batter).
Food options are numerous in Kanchanaburi. The night market (Th Saengchuto; Open; Thu-Tue) near the train station has a busy food section offering satays, shakes and even sandwiches. Food stalls light up the roadside close to the River Kwai Hotel on Th Saengchuto, while down by Th Song Khwae there are some good-quality floating restaurants, which are usually full of package-company tourists. Th Mae Nam Khwae has many Western-style restaurants. The market (Th Saengchuto) near the bus station is well known for its excellent hŏy tôrt (fried mussels in an egg batter).
Saisowo (no roman-script sign; Th Chaokunen; dishes 20-30B; À8am-4pm) A long-running noodle emporium with some of the finest gŏo·ay đĕe·o mŏo for miles around.
Krua Chukkadon (no roman-script sign; Th Chukkadon; dishes 40-100B) This simple floating restaurant near the JEATH War Museum has a limited menu, but what it does, it does well. There’s a bilingual menu and monolingual, though thoroughly charming, staff.
Jukkru (no roman-script sign; Th Song Khwae; dishes 50-120B) It lacks the glamour of the floating restaurants opposite, but Jukkru compensates with superb Thai cuisine. There is an unusually large vegetarian selection for a Thai restaurant. Look for the blue tables and chairs outside.
Tourists tend to sip their beers along Th Mae Nam Khwae, which has several bars including the backpackers’ retreat Buddha Bar and 1 More Bar; there are pool tables and even prostitutes towards the busier southern end. Thais meanwhile head to Th Song Khwae, which has a handful of restaurants and bars.
No Name Bar (Th Mae Nam Khwae) You have to admire any bar that has the logo ‘Get shitfaced on a shoestring’ emblazoned on its wall. The irreverent theme continues inside, along with a solid supply of snacks, veggie dishes and cocktails.
Tham Naan (Th Song Khwae) Live Thai band and a relaxed country theme. Whisky lovers will appreciate the variety of choices.
Kanchanaburi’s bus station (Tel. 0 3451 5907; Th Saengchuto) is to the south of the town. The following destinations are served: Bangkok’s southern bus terminal (112B, three hours, every 20 minutes between 3.30am and 8pm), Bangkok’s northern bus terminal (2nd/1st class 108/139B, three hours, every hour between 6.30am and 6pm), Nakhon Pathom (50B, two hours, every 15 minutes between 4am and 6.30pm) taking the old Bangkok route and departing from platform 14, Sangkhlaburi (2nd/1st class 174/273B, four hours, frequent between 7.30am and 4.30pm) and Suphanburi (50B, two hours, every 20 minutes between 4.50am and 6pm), from where you can connect to Ayuthaya and Lopburi. If you’re going south, head for Ratchaburi (50B, two hours, frequent departures) and change to a Hua Hin- or Phetchaburi-bound bus. If you’re heading north, the quickest option is to head back to Bangkok’s northern bus terminal and find a ride there.
Trips from the bus station to the guesthouse area will cost 50B on a săhm·lór and 30B on a motorcycle taxi. Public sŏrng·tăa·ou run up and down Th Saengchuto for 10B per passenger (get off at the cemetery if you want the guesthouse area). The train station is within walking distance of the guesthouse area. Motorcycles can be rented at guesthouses and shops along Th Mae Nam Khwae for 150B a day. Bicycle rentals cost 50B. The river ferry that crosses Mae Nam Mae Klong costs 5B per person for a one-way trip. Long-tail boats offer 1½-hour trips to various attractions by the riverside. Prices start at 700B but are negotiable, depending on how many are in a group. The boats leave from the pier off Th Chukkadon or from the JEATH War Museum.
Step outside the provincial town and you’ll be greeted by a patchwork of streams, rivers and waterfalls. Thailand’s largest area of protected forest offers opportunities to explore caves filled with glistening crystals, trek through untamed jungle and visit remote villages. It’s possible to see some of the highlights on one-day outings from Kanchanaburi, but generally speaking the further northwest you go, the better it gets. Those that make it up to Thong Pha Phum and Sangkhlaburi are able to experience life in truly unspoiled towns where life drifts along at a relaxed pace. They are also ideal bases from which to explore nearby national parks.
The following sites are organized geographically along the major access highways to make it easier to visit via public transport. The waterfalls outside of Kanchanaburi are best visited during the rainy season from June to October or in November and December, when water levels are at their peak.
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| Erawan waterfall |
8am-4pm, levels 1-2 to 5pm) is the best-known attraction, but there are several other natural features worth seeking out. The waterfall’s top tier is named due its resemblance to Erawan, the three-headed elephant of Hindu mythology. Walking to the first three tiers is simple work, but after that good walking shoes and some endurance are needed to complete the 1.5km hike. Levels two and four are particularly impressive, but be wary of monkeys who may snatch belongings while you’re taking a dip.
Tham Phra That boasts a large variety of limestone formations. Guides with paraffin lamps lead visitors through the unlit cave, pointing out the translucent rocks, glittering crystals and bat-covered caverns. Geologists find the caves interesting due to a clearly visible fault line. You’ll need your own transport to reach the cave, which is 12km northwest of the park entrance, or you can try and negotiate a ride with park staff. The approach road is a dirt track and there’s a stiff walk up to the cave entrance. Another 5km north is the enormous and extremely scenic Si Nakharin Reservoir.
Around 80% of Erawan is forest, and many of the park’s various trees can be seen along three nature trails, which range from 1km to 2km. Birdwatchers try to spy hornbills, woodpeckers and parakeets from the camping areas and observation trails. Park bungalows (Tel: 0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th; camping 90-150B, bungalows 800-5000B) sleep between two and 52 people. Buses from Kanchanaburi stop by the entrance of the Erawan waterfall (55B, 1½ hours, every hour from 8am to 5.20pm). The last bus back to Kanchanaburi is at 4pm. Within the park, you can rent bicycles for 20B to 40B per day.
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| Prasat Meuang Singh Historical Park |
This historical park (Tel. 0 3459 1122; admission 40B; 8am-5pm) preserves the remains of a 13thcentury Khmer outpost that may have been a relay point for trade along Mae Nam Khwae Noi. The restored ruins show a Bayon style of architecture and cover 73.6 hectares. They were declared a historical park under the administration of the Fine Arts Department in 1987. All the park’s shrines are constructed of laterite bricks and are situated in a huge grassy compound surrounded by layers of laterite ramparts. Sections of the ramparts show seven additional layers of earthen walls, suggesting cosmological symbolism in the city plan. Evidence of a sophisticated water system has also been discovered amid the ramparts and moats. The town encompasses four groups of ruins, although only two groups have been excavated and are visible. The principal shrine, Prasat Meuang Singh, is in the centre of the park and faces east (the cardinal direction of most Angkor temples). Walls surrounding the shrine have gates in each of the cardinal directions; the ponds and ditches around it represent the continents and oceans. A reproduction of a sculpture of Avalokitesvara stands on the inside of the northern wall and establishes Meuang Singh as a Mahayana Buddhist center. The original is in the National Museum in Bangkok. Inside the main prang is a reproduction of a sculpture of Prajnaparamita, the goddess of wisdom in Mahayana Buddhism. To the northeast of the main temple are the remains of a smaller shrine whose original contents and purpose are unknown. Near the main entrance to the complex at the north gate is a small exhibition hall that contains various sculptures of Mahayana Buddhist deities and stucco decorations, most of which are reproductions. Prasat Meuang Singh is 40km west of Kanchanaburi and is best reached by private transport. Trains heading from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok stop nearby at Tha Kilen station (100B; see opposite for train departure times). From here it’s a 1km walk to the entrance, but it’s best having some form of transport as the grounds are large.
8am-5pm) preserves the remains of a 13thcentury Khmer outpost that may have been a relay point for trade along Mae Nam Khwae Noi. The restored ruins show a Bayon style of architecture and cover 73.6 hectares. They were declared a historical park under the administration of the Fine Arts Department in 1987. All the park’s shrines are constructed of laterite bricks and are situated in a huge grassy compound surrounded by layers of laterite ramparts. Sections of the ramparts show seven additional layers of earthen walls, suggesting cosmological symbolism in the city plan. Evidence of a sophisticated water system has also been discovered amid the ramparts and moats. The town encompasses four groups of ruins, although only two groups have been excavated and are visible. The principal shrine, Prasat Meuang Singh, is in the centre of the park and faces east (the cardinal direction of most Angkor temples). Walls surrounding the shrine have gates in each of the cardinal directions; the ponds and ditches around it represent the continents and oceans. A reproduction of a sculpture of Avalokitesvara stands on the inside of the northern wall and establishes Meuang Singh as a Mahayana Buddhist center. The original is in the National Museum in Bangkok. Inside the main prang is a reproduction of a sculpture of Prajnaparamita, the goddess of wisdom in Mahayana Buddhism. To the northeast of the main temple are the remains of a smaller shrine whose original contents and purpose are unknown. Near the main entrance to the complex at the north gate is a small exhibition hall that contains various sculptures of Mahayana Buddhist deities and stucco decorations, most of which are reproductions. Prasat Meuang Singh is 40km west of Kanchanaburi and is best reached by private transport. Trains heading from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok stop nearby at Tha Kilen station (100B; see opposite for train departure times). From here it’s a 1km walk to the entrance, but it’s best having some form of transport as the grounds are large.
During WWII a Dutch POW named HR van Heekeren unearthed a collection of ancient stone tools in Ban Kao, around 7km from Meuang Singh. After the war the former archaeologist returned and much of what he helped to excavate is now displayed in this museum (admission 50B; h9am-4pm Wed-Sun). The Thai-Danish project led the excavation and concluded that the area was an important Neolithic burial site, dating back around 5000 years. Fairly uninspiring displays detail the geology and geography of the province, while the most intriguing feature is a collection of hollowed-out tree trunks that may have once been boats, or coffins. Ban Kao is best reached by private transport. The train heading north of Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok stops 6km away at Tha Kilen stop (100B; see p218 for train departure times).
There might be motorcycle taxis available at the train station for the remaining 3km trip to the museum.
If you’ve ever dreamt of a world without TV, telephones and email, then this meditation center (
5am-6pm) could be the answer. Founded in 1986, the retreat is well known among locals. Tamara, an English woman who has lived here for several years, can help with the two-hour meditation classes, which take place at 4am and 6pm. It’s worth dropping by to drink in the serene atmosphere of the center, which is set among beautifully maintained grounds. Cross the teak bridge over Mae Nam Khwae Noi to get in, and first pay respects before the wooden Buddha image in the meditation pavilion. About 300 people stay at the center, 200 of them permanently. Most are nuns, but there is a separate area for men. There is no charge for visiting or even staying at the center, but donations are appreciated. Basic accommodation is available for those who want to immerse themselves in life here. White shirts and trousers are provided free at the entrance and should be worn. The center is off Hwy 323, 12km from the Tiger Temple, and is well signposted. By train, get off at Maha Mongkol station.
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| Tiger Temple |
Kanchanaburi’s most expensive tourist attraction is also its most controversial. This monastery (Tel. 0 3453 1557; admission 500B; noon-3.30pm) affords incredible photo opportunities for visitors to get up close and personal with the big cats. Some of the temple’s 30 tigers pose for pictures in a canyon while visitors are shepherded in and out in quick succession. Despite the endless queues, the attraction has long been a source of controversy. Some ask why the tigers are so docile and others question the increasingly high entry fees. Abbot Phra Chan, who established the site in 1994, told Lonely Planet that the tigers are never drugged and are healthy, but he declined to comment on the reasons for the increased admission charges. One explanation given for the tigers’ placid manners is that they eat and are exercised immediately before their public appearances, and that they only come out during the hottest part of the day, when they would normally be inactive. Work on an ‘island’ enclosure is under way but it will be some time yet before the 20 million baht project is complete. The opportunity to get so close to such awesome animals is rare, but we would encourage potential visitors to do their own research before deciding whether to go. If you do go, avoid wearing ‘hot’ colors, such as red or orange, which could excite the tigers. The temple is 38km from Kanchanaburi on Hwy 323. You can take the Kanchanaburi–Sangkhlaburi public bus to the temple turnoff, from where it’s a 2km walk to the entrance. Most travelers book an afternoon tour with a travel company. Allegations about tiger trading, poor treatment of the animals and a lack of progress in developing the site (despite the rising entry fees) have been made, and denied by the temple. Visit www.careforthewild.org to see the UK conservation group’s report on the temple.
noon-3.30pm) affords incredible photo opportunities for visitors to get up close and personal with the big cats. Some of the temple’s 30 tigers pose for pictures in a canyon while visitors are shepherded in and out in quick succession. Despite the endless queues, the attraction has long been a source of controversy. Some ask why the tigers are so docile and others question the increasingly high entry fees. Abbot Phra Chan, who established the site in 1994, told Lonely Planet that the tigers are never drugged and are healthy, but he declined to comment on the reasons for the increased admission charges. One explanation given for the tigers’ placid manners is that they eat and are exercised immediately before their public appearances, and that they only come out during the hottest part of the day, when they would normally be inactive. Work on an ‘island’ enclosure is under way but it will be some time yet before the 20 million baht project is complete. The opportunity to get so close to such awesome animals is rare, but we would encourage potential visitors to do their own research before deciding whether to go. If you do go, avoid wearing ‘hot’ colors, such as red or orange, which could excite the tigers. The temple is 38km from Kanchanaburi on Hwy 323. You can take the Kanchanaburi–Sangkhlaburi public bus to the temple turnoff, from where it’s a 2km walk to the entrance. Most travelers book an afternoon tour with a travel company. Allegations about tiger trading, poor treatment of the animals and a lack of progress in developing the site (despite the rising entry fees) have been made, and denied by the temple. Visit www.careforthewild.org to see the UK conservation group’s report on the temple.
The tapioca fields around Kanchanaburi occasionally get special attention from travelers. Tour guides report seeing visitors surreptitiously picking leaves and stuffing them into their bags. The guides then have to patiently explain that while the leaves may closely resemble a marijuana plant, they are just plain old tapioca.
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| Sai Yok Noi Waterfall |
This museum (www.dva.gov.au/commem/oawg/thailand.htm; admission by donation;
9am-4pm) is a joint Thai-Australian project that remembers the tragedy of the 'Death Railway' in a simple and dignified manner. The museum doesn’t have many artefacts, simply because there was so little equipment for prisoners to use, but it does use displays and video clips of survivors to outline events. A 4km-long walking trail (which takes three hours round trip) runs along the original railbed. Close to the start of the trail, the most famous cutting is Hellfire Pass (known locally as Konyu Cutting). The area earned its name following the three-month ‘Speedo’ construction period where shifts of 500 prisoners worked 16 to 18 hours a day. The glow from burning torches cast eerie shadows of the Japanese guards and on the gaunt prisoners’ faces, so that the scene was said to resemble Dante’s Inferno. Poor hygiene, a lack of medical equipment and the brutal treatment of prisoners claimed the lives of around 15,000 Allied prisoners of war. A further 100,000 civilian laborers from Southeast Asian countries also died.
The walk along the track includes stunning views of Khwae Noi Valley towards Myanmar and the Pack of Cards bridge, which earned its name after collapsing three times. A walking trail map and audio guide are available. The museum is 80km northwest of Kanchanaburi on Hwy 323 and can be reached by Sangkhlaburi–Kanchanaburi bus (50B, 1½ hours, frequent departures). The last bus back to Kanchanaburi passes here at 4.30pm.
Northern Kanchanaburi has a collection of national parks (Tel. 0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th) that are home to cascading waterfalls, thick jungle and an array of wildlife. They form part of the Western Forest Complex, one of Asia’s largest protected areas. Entry to the parks is 200B for foreigners. Bungalows and camping facilities are available at most sites, but it is important to book ahead. Park headquarters have free booklets and maps, and guides can be hired for 200B to 300B. The temperature range here can be between 8°C and 45°C, depending on the time of year, so bring appropriate clothing. Some tour companies in Kanchanaburi can arrange guided tours of the parks.
The 1400-sq-km Sai Yok National Park ('0 3451 6163; www.dnp.go.th; admission 200B) is easy to reach and has several waterfalls, caves and some particularly rare animals. The park was the setting for the famous Russian-roulette scenes in the 1978 movie The Deer Hunter. Notable wildlife here includes elephants, barking deer, wreathed hornbills, gibbons and red, white and blue queen crabs, first discovered here in 1983. Near the main entrance are limestone caves, remains of a bridge on the 'Death Railway' and Japanese cooking stoves (little more than piles of bricks). The park is well signposted and free leaflets provide information about hiking trails and how to hire canoes, rafts or bicycles. A cycling route is available to the Kitti’s hog-nosed bat cave, where the eponymous creature, the smallest mammal in the world, was first found in 1973. Near the visitors centre is Nam Tok Sai Yok Yai (Sai Yok Yai waterfall), which is more of a creek than a waterfall. It empties into Mae Nam Khwae Noi near a suspension bridge.
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| SAI YOK NATIONAL PARK |
This park (Tel. 0 1382 0359; Thong Pha Phum district) includes the Jorgrading waterfall and simple but breathtaking accommodation in tree houses ('0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th; r600-1200B). The 62km ride from Thong Pha Phum to the park is along a meandering but well-made road that is shaded by soaring hillside trees. The main Jorgrading Waterfall is 5km from the entrance. Another 8km along Hwy 3272 is the frontier village of E-Thong, where 80% of the population is Burmese. In the centre of this village, E-Thong Homestay ('08 7169 0394; r600-800B) can help with trips out. If things get too quiet in this remote frontier village, there is always the family karaoke machine.
With the mighty Khao Laem reservoir at its heart, this 1497-sq-km park (Tel. 0 3453 2099; Thong Pha Phum district) is one of the country’s most picturesque. The park headquarters are 28km south of Sangkhlaburi. More than 260 species of wildlife have been recorded at the park, including gibbons, deer and wild boar. Ornithologists flock to Kroeng Kravia Swamp to view the birdlife, which includes Asian fairy bluebirds and green-billed malkohas. To reach the swamp, go to the Kroeng Kravia substation, 45km south of Sangkhlaburi. The reservoir is surrounded by several waterfalls and huge limestone mountains. Kra Teng Jeng waterfall begins 400m from the park entrance and has a shaded trail leading towards the main falls; a guide is required to complete the 4km walk. Approximately 12km south from the park entrance is the 15m-high Dai Chong Thong waterfall. Around 1km north from the park entrance is Pom Pee substation ('0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th; r from 900B) with camping and bungalows;the main park only offers camping facilities. From here you can hire long-tail boats to cross the reservoir to Pha Pueng or Kai Uu substations, or head back to the Mon settlement of Wang Kha. Prices vary, but a boat with eight people would cost 2000B. The Lake Safari (www.insideasia.travel; adult/child 15,400/10,780B) houseboat leaves from Khao Laem National Park on a leisurely fourday trip to Sangkhlaburi. It’s also possible to privately hire the houseboat.
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| SI NAKHARIN NATIONAL PARK |
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| Tham Than Lot Yai |
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| Tham Than Lot Noi |
Most visitors arrive at this 59-sq-km park by private transport along Hwy 3086. One bus a day (75B, three hours, 7.45am) makes the 97km journey from Kanchanaburi to Dahn Chang. Ask to get off at Muang Tow, which is 2km from the park. Buses depart from Muang Tow for Kanchanaburi at 6.20am, 8.15am and 12.25pm.
Surrounded by cloud-capped mountains and dense forests, this tiny town is a great place to sample a quieter way of life. Thong Pha Phum acts as a stop-off point for those heading north to Sangkhlaburi, and also as an access point for nearby natural attractions. The town is simple to navigate as there is just one main street, and at its heart is the marketplace. Mae Nam Khwae Noi runs parallel to the east of the town. Facilities are somewhat sparse, although there are two banks and a handful of guesthouses. The market is a good place to go for an early-morning mingle, where the food ranges from sugary snacks to noodles. At night the hilltop temple is illuminated and casts a golden glow over a town that has already gone to bed. To reach the temple during the day, follow the riverfront road towards the main highway, cross a footbridge and then walk up. South of Thong Pha Phum town is Hin Dat Hot Springs (admission 40B; h6am-10pm). If the effects of the two geothermal pools aren’t enough, there is a massage pavilion nearby. You can soak in the pools or brave the adjacent fast-running stream. The bòr nám rórn (hot springs) are accessible via the Sangkhlaburi–Kanchanaburi bus on Hwy 323 (Km105 marker) and are 1km from the main road. Along the same road as the hot springs is Nam Tok Pha That (admission 200B), a pretty multilevel waterfall that doesn’t get many visitors. There are areas where bathing is possible, but be wary of the slippery stones. Kheuan Khao Laem, known locally as Vachiralongkorn Dam, is 9km northwest of the town. Among those who enjoy the views from the top of the dam is a troop of monkeys.
There are several guesthouses along the main road, and some hotels near the dam.
Som Jainuk Hotel (Tel. 0 3459 9001; 29/10 Mu 1; r 200-500B) Close to the market, this hotel has simple fan rooms or comfortable stone-walled bungalows with balconies. Ask for June, who can offer invaluable travel advice.
Barn Cha Daan (Tel. 0 3459 9035; Mu 1; r 450B) Near the main entrance to town, with splitlevel rooms set among a wooded courtyard. Rooms include TV, hot water and air-con.
Ban Suan (Tel. 0 3459 98412; off Hwy 3272; r 650-1200B) Outside of town, Ban Suan has great views of the dam, good facilities and an Englishspeaking manager, something of a rarity in these parts. Restaurants around town reflect the large Burmese and ethnic communities who live here: the large metal pots full of tempting curries are typically Mon. The three-tiered Krua Tom Nam restaurant behind the market has views of the river. A few restaurants near the town’s main entrance offer local dishes, but usually at night you’ll see more cats than people.
Air-con buses leave from opposite Siam City Bank on the main road. Tickets are sold at the back of the Krua Ngobah (Tel. 0 3459 9377) restaurant. Buses to Bangkok’s northern terminal (202B, five hours, every 90 minutes) depart until 3.40pm, while buses to Sangkhlaburi (67B, 1½ hours, four times a day) also leave from here. Local buses leave from the market.
Air-con buses leave from opposite Siam City Bank on the main road. Tickets are sold at the back of the Krua Ngobah (Tel. 0 3459 9377) restaurant. Buses to Bangkok’s northern terminal (202B, five hours, every 90 minutes) depart until 3.40pm, while buses to Sangkhlaburi (67B, 1½ hours, four times a day) also leave from here. Local buses leave from the market.
A good option is to negotiate with the motorbike taxi drivers at the market, as they will rent their bikes out for around 300B a day, depending on your bartering skills. Sŏrng·tăa·ou run up and down the main road and should cost no more than 10B for rides within town.
For most travellers Sangkhlaburi is the end of the line, but for many residents it marks the start of a new journey. Few places in Thailand have such a blend of ethnic identities, with Burmese, Karen, Mon, Thai and some Lao each calling this home. Many cross the Burmese border driven by economic need or through fear of oppression. The result is a melange of cultures, beliefs and even languages.
Sangkhlaburi is a remote town that overlooks the enormous Kheuan Khao Laem (Khao Laem Reservoir), and owes its existence to the waters. It was founded after an old village, near the confluence of the three rivers that feed the dam, was flooded. Several NGOs in town help the ethnic communities survive and fight for what few rights they have. As a result, there is a constant need for volunteers.
The town comes to life on Mon National Day, celebrated during the last week of July. Information For money matters go to Siam Commercial Bank (ATM), near the market. Internet shops are also near the market and charge 25B per hour. There is an international phone in front of the post office on the main street.
Covering 6200 sq km, Thung Yai Naresuan and Huay Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary form the largest mainland conservation area in Southeast Asia. Designated a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1991, the sanctuaries host an incredible range of fauna and flora. Set in the northeastern corner of Kanchanaburi and sprawling into neighboring provinces, the sanctuaries are largely a mountainous wilderness with rivers and streams separating the grassy lowlands and valleys. In the past 50 years the amount of natural forest cover in Thailand has been drastically reduced but burgeoning environmental consciousness has seen more conservation and less destruction. The sanctuaries are protected areas, not national parks, so visitors require prior permission to get in. Despite this, some unwelcome visitors do still gain access to carry out illegal logging or hunt wildlife.
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| Thung Yai Naresuan and Huay Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary |
There are two camping areas within Huay Kha Khaeng: Cyber Ranger Station and Huay Mae Dee. Cyber Ranger Station is 7km from the main office and has several waterfalls and valleys within trekking distance. The 37km off-road track to Huay Mae Dee passes by a Karen village and is set within thick forest. Thai-speaking guides can be hired from both sites. Camping sites (per tent 30B) are available, but you’ll need to bring all your own equipment.
The main office is best reached by private transport. The closest buses or trains run is to Lan Sak, from where it’s a 35km drive to the office. Sanctuaries such as these are valuable because they are untouched and so tourism is not encouraged. The few hundred visitors that do come each year usually take part in scientific field trips. Anyone else wanting to enter should first get consent from the Royal Thai Forestry department.
Across what is reputedly Thailand’s longest wooden bridge (Saphan Mon) sits this Mon settlement. The village relocated here after the dam’s construction flooded the original settlement. Burma’s constant conflicts pushed many Mon into Thailand and now Wang Kha has its own unmistakable character. Children play a form of cricket in the street, women smoke enormous cheroots and many wear traditional white face powder. The times are definitely changing though; there’s also an internet cafe.
A day market in the centre of the village has pots of delicious Mon curry. North of the market is Wat Wang Wiwekaram (Wat Mon), the spiritual centre of the Mon people in Thailand. The temple has two complexes that are 600m apart. To the right of the T-junction is the multi-roofed wí·hăhn with heavy, carved wooden doors and marble banisters. To the left of the Tjunction is the Chedi Luang Phaw Uttama; this was constructed in a similar style to that of the Mahabodhi chedi in Bodhgaya, India. At night the 6kg of gold that covers it is illuminated. Men may climb the few short steps to the top; women may not. In the same courtyard are an ageing chedi and a handicrafts market. The temple is famous for being the home of a highly respected monk, Luang Phaw Uttama. Born in Burma in 1910, he fled to Thailand in 1949 to escape the civil war and was a cornerstone of the Mon community. He helped secure this area after the Mon village’s previous location was submerged by the construction of the dam. In 2006 he died aged 97 at Bangkok’s Srirat Hospital and his medical bills were covered by the queen.
This enormous lake was formed when the Vachiralongkorn Dam (known locally as Khao Laem Dam) was constructed across Mae Nam Khwae Noi in 1983. The lake submerged an entire village at the confluence of the Khwae Noi, Ranti and Sangkhalia Rivers. In the dry season it’s still possible to see the spires of the village’s Wat Sam Prasop protruding from the lake. Canoes, long-tail boats and, sadly, jetskies, can be found on the lake. Early morning here is a magical time, when mist and the sounds of nature envelope the water. Guesthouses can arrange trips out onto the water. Volunteering The large orange building overlooking the town is Baan Unrak (House of Joy; www.baanunrak.org), which cares for orphaned or abandoned children from ethnic groups. Since 1991 the home has grown in line with demand and now 140 children live there. As well as the children’s home, Baan Unrak runs a weaving centre to help provide an income for local women, helps single mothers struggling to raise their children, and works with HIV/AIDS patients. Most of the children at Baan Unrak are Karen and all follow the home’s neo-humanist philosophy of vegetarianism, universal love and meditation. Due to the large refugee numbers in Sangkhlaburi there is great demand for such services, and volunteers are always needed. The home usually only accepts helpers for six months or longer, but visitors are welcome. The children stage yoga performances at the home every Wednesday at 6pm. For short-term commitments, consider
lending your English-language skills and elbow grease to the remote Hilltribe Learning Centre (via P Guest House; Tel. 0 3459 5061).
Burmese Inn (Tel. 0 3459 5146; www.sangkhlaburi.com;
52/3 Mu 3; r 120-800B) The cheapest place in town, and with good reason. Rooms range from the single, flimsy kind that cling to the hillside, or larger bungalows.
P Guest House (Tel. 0 3459 5061; www.pguesthouse.com; 8/1 Mu 1; r 252-909) With English-speaking staff and rooms with fabulous lake views, P Guest House is a safe choice. Fan-rooms are plain and have shared bathrooms. Trips can be arranged from here, along with motorbike, bicycle and canoe hire.
Samprasob Resort (Tel. 0 3459 5050; www.samprasob
.com; 122 Mu 3; r 600-3000B) For a touch more comfort, this elegant resort has everything from compact double rooms to two-storey houses for the larger Thai groups that visit at weekends. Breakfast is included.
Guesthouses tend to be the favorite eating venues, thanks largely to their scenic waterfront locations. As with most Thai towns, the market offers the greatest variety of food. Be sure to sample some of the delicious Thai and Burmese curries (20B).
Baan Unrak Bakery (snacks 25-90B) Vegetarians will love this meatless cafe, which has excellent pastries and Thai dishes. The cheese and red bean doughnut is nothing short of spectacular. The bakery is part of the Baan Unrak organization.
Visitors interested in Karen weaving should spend time at the small store at the Baan Unrak Bakery or the shop outside P Guest House; the products are made by the Baan Unrak women’s cooperative.
Right across from the market is a bare patch of land that serves as Sangkhlaburi’s bus station. Ordinary bus 8203 leaves Sangkhlaburi for Kanchanaburi (130B) at 6.45am, 8.15am, 9.45am and 1.15pm, and takes five hours. Air-con buses depart for Bangkok’s northern terminal (1st/2nd class 333/259B) at 7.30am, 9am, 10.30am and 2.30pm on the four-hour journey south. These buses also stop at Sai Yok and Kanchanaburi. To the rear of the market is a minivan office where you can book tickets to Kanchanaburi (180B, three times a day). Stops include Thong Pha Phum (80B). A motorbike taxi to guesthouses will cost around 15B. The distance between Kanchanaburi and Sangkhlaburi is about 230km. From Thong Pha Phum to Sangkhlaburi it’s 74km.
This frontier town may be within Thailand’s borders but there’s a distinct Burmese flavor to it. The pagodas (Phrá Jedii Săam Ong) after which the town is named are unremarkable, and the main reason many come here is to gain a day pass into secretive Myanmar. On the other side of the border is the town of Payathonzu, which has a souvenir market and a few teahouses. It’s important to check with locals before coming, as the Myanmar government habitually shuts its side of the border due to fighting between Burmese military and ethnic armies.
If there is no way through, the market on the Thai side is full of traders selling Burmese whisky, jewellery, cigars and bizarre health treatments involving goats’ heads. At the entrance to one noodle restaurant is a time capsule which was buried in 1995 by Allied POWs to mark the 50th anniversary of the ‘Death Railway’. If you’re passing this way on 20 April 2045 you can see it being opened.
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| Three Pagodas Pass |
These days things seem peaceful enough, but Karen and Mon rebels used to fight the Burmese army for control of the pass. Any taxes the rebels could raise from smuggled goods helped fund their resistance movements. Even today the pass is said to be an important drug smuggling route, especially for amphetamines. At the time of writing the border had been closed for more than a year.
Sŏrng·tăa·ou leave from Sangkhlaburi’s bus station (40B) every 45 minutes between 6.40am and 5.20pm. The 28km journey north takes around 40 minutes. The border is a short walk from the sŏrng·tăa·ou stop in Three Pagodas Pass.
Many Mon escape the violence by crossing the border into Thailand, predominantly around
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| Mon people |
One breakthrough did occur in 2006 when the Thai government granted citizenship to 2000 Mon children in Sangkhlaburi who had been born in the kingdom. In 2008 Burma’s violent crackdown against protestors and the Nagris cyclone disaster created a fresh wave of people looking to flee the country. The Mon people in Burma continue to suffer and reports of rape, beatings and arrests are common. They are stuck between a country where they are repressed and a country where they have few rights. Because of this, there are fears their once proud traditions and culture could eventually become completely assimilated and lost forever.
