Planning Your Trip to Thailand
Here you’ll find all of the nuts and bolts on how to get there, where and when to visit, and what documents you’ll need, as well as pointers to other sources of information that can make the difference between a smooth journey and a bumpy ride.
The Thais often compare their land to the shape of an elephant’s head, seen in profile, facing west. Thailand is roughly equidistant from China and India; centuries of migration from southern China and trade contacts with India brought tremendous influences from each of these Asian centers.
Located in the center of Indochina, Thailand borders Myanmar (Burma) to the north and west, Laos to the northeast, Cambodia (Kampuchea) to the east, and Malaysia to the south. Its southwestern coast stretches along the Andaman Sea, and its southern and southeastern coastlines border the Gulf of Thailand. Thailand covers roughly 466,200 sq. km (180,000 sq. miles) and is divided into six major geographic zones.
Western Thailand West of Bangkok, mountains and valleys are carved by the Kwai River, the site of the infamous World War II “Death Railway,” named for the 12,000 prisoners of war who died in Japanese labor camps during its construction. A bridge over the river near Kanchanaburi was made famous by the film Bridge on the River Kwai, and is a stop on the lists of many travelers who come to learn about this story in the war’s history, witness the site, and pay respects to those whose lives were lost. Just to the north of Bangkok (which is in every way the center of the country, along the Chao Phraya River banks) is Ayutthaya, Thailand’s capital after Sukhothai.
The Southeastern Coast The southeastern coast is lined with seaside resorts; first Pattaya and then the islands Koh Samet and Koh Chang. Farther east, in the mountains, is Thailand’s greatest concentration of sapphire and ruby mines. Recently, natural gas deposits were discovered off the southeastern coast, and the government has constructed two new deep-water ports that will soon be accessible by rail, easing some of the industrial pressure on Bangkok.
The Southern Peninsula A long, narrow peninsula (the elephant’s trunk) extends south to the Malaysian border, with the Andaman Sea on the west and the Gulf of Thailand on the east. The eastern coastline along the gulf extends more than 1,811km (1,125 miles); the western shoreline runs 716km (445 miles) along the Andaman Sea. This region is the most tropical in the country, with heavy rainfall during the monsoons. The northeast monsoon, roughly from November to April, brings clear weather and calm seas to the west coast; the southwest monsoon, March to October, brings similar conditions to the east coast. There are glamorous beach resorts here such as the western islands of Phuket and nearby Koh Phi Phi, Krabi, and Koh Tarutao. Koh Samui, off the east coast, is comparable to Phuket. The south is also interesting as the home of the majority of Thailand’s Muslim minority, who have put quite a stamp on the southernmost provinces. The primary industries in this region are tin mining, rubber production, coconut and oil palm plantations, fishing, and of course, tourism.
The Central Plain Thailand’s central plain is an extremely fertile region, providing the country and the world with much of its abundant rice crop. The main city of the central plain is Phitsanulok, northeast of which are the impressive remains of Sukhothai, Thailand’s first capital, and the ancient city of Si Satchanalai; to the south is Lopburi, an ancient Mon/Khmer settlement.
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| Map of Thailand |
Isan The broad and relatively infertile northeast plateau (the ear of the elephant), Isan is the least developed region in Thailand, bordered by the Mekong River (Mae Nam Khong in Thai). One of the country’s four great rivers, the Mekong separates the country from neighboring Laos on the north and northeast boundaries. The people of Isan share a cultural similarity with Laos, but you needn’t travel to Isan to meet them. Many young Isan people find their way to the capital city for work. Isan is dusty in the cool winter and muddy during the summer monsoon. The region contains the most ancient Bronze Age village in the country (if not the world), more than 5,600 years old, at Ban Chiang. There are also major Khmer ruins at Phimai, outside Khorat, and outside Surin and Buriram. Other than potash mining and subsistence farming, the region has little economic development, though recently there has been some growth of industry in and around Khorat and Khon Kaen.
Northern Thailand The north (the forehead of the elephant) is a relatively cool mountainous region at the foothills of the Himalayas, where elephants have traditionally provided the heavy labor needed to harvest teak and other hardwoods. In the past, this region was under control of the powerful and influential Lanna Kingdom. Today it is largely populated by Tai Yai people, the original Thai people who migrated from southern China in the first centuries of the millennium, yet the region is more famous for the colorful hilltribe people who dwell in the jungles high in the mountains. Like most of Thailand, the cool hills in the north are well suited for farming, particularly for strawberries, asparagus, peaches, litchis, and other fruits. At higher elevations many hilltribe farmers cultivate opium poppies, though agricultural programs advanced by Thailand’s royal family is introducing more productive crops. (The people who grow addictive crops rarely profit in the trade and, like everyone else, they are often ruined by them.) The cooler temperatures also make the north a favorite destination for Thais on holiday, especially from March to May, when the rest of the country is scorching. The major cities in the north are Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Lamphun, Lampang, and Mae Hong Son.
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| Immigration Division of the Royal Thai Police Department |
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS
PASSPORTS and VISAS All visitors to Thailand must carry a valid passport with proof of onward passage (either a return or through ticket). Visa applications are not required if you are staying less than 30 days and are a national of one of 41 designated countries, including Australia, Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, the United Kingdom, and the United States (New Zealanders may stay up to 3 months). The Immigration Division of the Royal Thai Police Department at 507 Soi Suan Phu (off Sathorn Tai Rd. South of Silom area and Sala Daeng BTS station) (Tel.+66 (0) 02287-3101-10). The price of all visa extensions was just raised to 1,900B ($46), an increase of 400%, making 10-day extensions of 30-day visas uneconomical; it is best to always have a proper visa and exit the country by the date stamped in your passport (or make the proverbial “visa-run” over border-points with Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia or Malaysia). Visitors planning to stay for longer than a month can arrange 60-day tourist visas at embassies overseas for a cost of 1,900B ($46; renewable for an additional 30 days for another 1,900B ($46). If you overstay your visa, you will be charged 200B ($4.90) per day, payable when exiting the kingdom, but overstays are best avoided. Longer overstays are punishable by a 20,000B ($490) fine or a stay in immigration jail. For more information about visas, check this useful site: www.thaivisa.com.
Many small storefronts and travel agencies offer visa services, saying they will run your passport over the border and arrange a new visa; these companies are disreputable and have been known to supply bogus visas that land customers in jail. Don’t let your passport travel without you (it is illegal).
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| Thai Embassies in Washington DC |
THAI EMBASSIES OVERSEAS In the United States, contact the Royal Thai Embassy, 1024 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Suite 401, Washington, DC 20007 (Tel. 202/298-4817/4812; fax 202/944-3611); The Permanent Mission of Thailand to the United Nations, 351 E. 52nd St., New York, NY 10022 (Tel. 212/754-2230; fax 212/688-3029) e-mail: thailand@un.int; the Royal Thai Consulate-General, 611 N.L. archmont Blvd., 2nd floor, Los Angeles, CA 90004 (Tel. 323/962-9574; fax 323/962-2128) Email: info@ThaiConsulateLA.org; the Royal Thai Consulate General, 700 North Rush Street, Chicago, IL 60611-2504 ( Tel. 1-312/664-3129 Fax: 1-312/664-3230: E-mail: info@thaiconsulatechicago.org ;). In Canada, contact the Royal Thai Embassy, 180 Island Park Dr., Ottawa, Ontario K1Y OA2 (Tel. 613/722-4444; fax 613/722-6624; E-mail: thaiott@magma.ca ); the Royal Thai Embassy, 104 Burrard Street, Vancouver, BC V6Z 2R9 (Tel.1-604/687-1143; fax 604/687-4434). In Australia, contact the Royal Thai Embassy, 111 Empire Circuit Yarralumla, ACT 2600 Canberra (Tel. 02/6273-1149, 02/6273-2937; fax 02/6273-1518); Royal Thai Consulate General, Level 8, 131 Macquarie Street, Sydney, NSW 2000 (Tel.+61 02/9241-2542-43; fax 02/9247-8312) E-mail: thaisydney@thaiconsulatesydney.org. In New Zealand, contact the Royal Thai Embassy, 2 Cook St., Karori, P.O. Box 17226, Wellington (Tel. 644/476-8618-19; fax 644/476-3677). In the United Kingdom, contact the Royal Thai Embassy, 29-30 Queens Gate, London SW7 5JB (Tel. 020/7589-2944 Ext. 5500; fax 020/7823-7492, enquiries@thaiconsul-uk.com).
MEDICAL REQUIREMENTS No inoculations or vaccinations are required unless you are coming from or passing through areas infected with yellow fever. Yellow fever certificates are required for those coming from 14 African and South American countries. Check at the consulate or embassy for up-to-date information about health certificates that may be required for entry.
A NOTE ON PASSPORTS For information on how to get a passport, go to the Fast Facts section of this chapter—the websites listed provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing passport applications. For an up-todate country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go the “Foreign Entry Requirement” Web page of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov/foreignentryreqs.html.
It is prohibited by law to bring the following items into Thailand: narcotics, pornography, firearms and ammunition, and agricultural products. Tourists are allowed to enter the country with 1 liter of alcohol and 200 cigarettes (or 250g of cigars or smoking tobacco) per adult, duty free. Photographic equipment (one still, video, or movie camera, plus five rolls of still film or three rolls of 8mm or 16mm motion-picture film—by the way, the film rule is not strictly enforced), and “professional instruments” (typewriter, personal computer, and so on) are allowed, provided they are taken out of the country on departure. Tourists are permitted to take gold out of the country without export duty, unless you are dealing in import/export related business.
Pay more attention to what you can in fact import to your home country, as Thai customs as you exit the kingdom are rather lax. One exception is the following rule about Thai cultural treasures.
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| Antique Buddha image is forbidden to take out of Thailand |
EXPORT OF ANTIQUES OR ART FROM THAILAND The government wants to keep track of all pieces of art and antiquity that leave the kingdom, and so special permission is required for removing these items from the country. It is forbidden to take antique or authentic Buddha images, Bodhisattva images, or fragments thereof out of the country. You will be required to submit the object, two 5-by-7-inch photographs of the front view of the object, your passport, and a photocopy of your passport notarized by your home embassy. The authorization process takes 8 days.
For further details contact the Fine Arts Department, Na Phra That Road, next to Thammasat University (Tel. 0 2222-3569, Fax 02222-0934), open weekdays 9am to 4pm. Please note: This is only an issue if the object in question is an antique, especially one that has been removed from a temple or palace, or a piece that has particular historic value to the kingdom. If you purchase a small Buddha image or reproduction, whether an amulet or a statue, you can just ship it or pack it in your bag. Any antique dealer will be able to notify you about which images require special permission.
Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You’ll be charged a flat rate of 4% duty on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Be sure to have your receipts handy. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is $200. With some exceptions, you cannot bring fresh fruits and vegetables into the United
.jpg "Antique Bodhisattava statue is forbidden to take out of Thailand") |
| Antique Bodhisattava statue is forbidden to take out of Thailand |
States. For specifics on what you can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on “Travel,” and then click on “Know Before You Go Online Brochure.”) Or contact the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (Tel. 202/354-1000) and request the pamphlet.
For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Customs and Revenue Agency (Tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca). Canada allows its citizens a C$750 exemption, and you’re allowed to bring back duty-free one carton of cigarettes, 1 can of tobacco, 40 imperial ounces of liquor, and 50 cigars. In addition, you’re allowed to mail gifts to Canada valued at less than C$60 a day, provided they’re unsolicited and don’t contain alcohol or tobacco (write on the package “Unsolicited gift, under $60 value”). All valuables should be declared on the Y-38 form before departure from Canada, including serial numbers of valuables you already own, such as expensive foreign cameras. Note: The C$750 exemption can only be used once a year and only after an absence of 7 days.
U.K. citizens returning from a non-EU country have a customs allowance of: 200 cigarettes; 50 cigars; 250 grams of smoking tobacco; 2 liters of still table wine; 1 liter of spirits or strong liqueurs (over 22% volume); 2 liters of fortified wine, sparkling wine or other liqueurs; 60cc (ml) perfume; 250cc (ml) of toilet water; and £145 worth of all other goods, including gifts and souvenirs. People under 17 cannot have the tobacco or alcohol allowance. For more information, contact HM Customs & Excise at Tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.
The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$400 or, for those under 18, A$200. Citizens can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 1,125 milliliters of alcohol. If you’re returning with valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at 1300/363-263,+61 2 9313 3010 (outside Australia),or log on to www.customs.gov.au.
The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens over 17 can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all 3 if their combined weight doesn’t exceed 250g); plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer, or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you are taking out of the country; that way, you can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (Tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).
Passport Savvy
Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you’ll pay a higher processing fee. When traveling, safeguard your passport in an inconspicuous, inaccessible place like a money belt and keep a copy of the critical pages with your passport number in a separate place. If you lose your passport, visit the nearest consulate of your native country as soon as possible for a replacement.
Travel in Thailand is very affordable and budget travelers, the “Cheap Charlies” of the world (called kee neow in Thai), visit the kingdom as much for the slow pace of life as for the fact that they can get by quite well for just a fraction of living costs in most Western countries. Hotels and restaurants of comparable, if not better, quality than in most tourist sites in the West also come at a fraction of the price. It’s not a bad idea to exchange at least some money—just enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel—before you leave home, so you can avoid lines at airport ATMs (automated teller machines). You can exchange money at your local American Express or Thomas Cook office or your bank. If you’re far away from a bank with currency-exchange services, American Express offers traveler’s checks and foreign currency, though with a $15 order fee and additional shipping costs, at www.americanexpress.com or tel. 800/807-6233.
The Thai unit of currency is the baht (written B) divided into 100 satang. Little-used copper-colored coins represent 25 and 50 satang; silver-colored coins are 1B, and 5B, and the larger 10B coin is silver with an inset copper center. Bank notes come in denominations of 10B (small and brown in color; now being phased-out), 20B (green), 50B (blue with a clear, plastic window), 100B (red), 500B (purple), and 1,000B (khaki).
There are no restrictions on the import of foreign currencies or traveler’s checks, but you cannot export foreign currency in excess of 50,000B ($1,220) per person or 500,000B ($12,200) if exiting to a neighboring country.
.25, .50, 1, 5 and 10B coins
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10B coin
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1000B note
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.jpg "20B note")
.jpg "50B note")
.jpg "100B note")
.jpg "500B note")
Before the currency crisis in July 1997, one U.S. dollar could buy you 25 Thai baht. During the worst of the crisis, the value was 55B to the U.S. dollar. Recent years have seen the Thai baht fluctuate from 44B per dollar to as little as 39B for a greenback. Amounts listed throughout this book are calculated at $1 = 31B. For the most up-todate figures, see www.xe.com/ucc.
Automated-teller machines (ATMs) are by far the most convenient ways to access cash in Thailand—they give good currency exchange rates (usually the rate of the day), and make traveler’s checks almost obsolete. You’ll find ATMs at most banks and out front of the many convenience stores in Thailand, even in the smallest hamlet (with the exception of more remote islands and mountain towns), and you should have no trouble finding ATM access. Be aware that most ATMs charge about $1.25 for each withdrawal. Check with your bank before leaving home to find out if your debit card is linked into either the MasterCard/Cirrus or the Visa/PLUS networks, and be sure to check the daily withdrawal limit before you depart.
Most Thai banks are connected to the major ATM networks. The most likely access is at Bangkok Bank, Thai Farmers Bank, Siam Commercial Bank, and Bank of Ayudhya, each with major branches in every city and many small towns. For specific locations, see each town’s “Fast Facts” listing. Check the back of your card to see which network you are on and, with any further questions, contact service providers directly: Cirrus (Tel. 800/424-787; www.mastercard.com) or leave home.
The Baht, the U.S. Dollar, the Euro, the Australian Dollar the British Pound
Thai B
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US$
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Euro €
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A$
|
UK£
|
1
|
0.03
|
0.02
|
0.03
|
0.02
|
5
|
0.15
|
0.10
|
0.20
|
0.08
|
10
|
0.30
|
0.25
|
0.35
|
0.15
|
20
|
0.60
|
0.50
|
0.70
|
0.30
|
50
|
1.50
|
1.20
|
1.80
|
0.76
|
100
|
3.00
|
2.45
|
3.60
|
1.50
|
500
|
15.00
|
12.00
|
18.00
|
7.60
|
1,000
|
30.00
|
24.00
|
36.00
|
15.00
|
5,000
|
150.00
|
122.00
|
179.00
|
6.00
|
10,000
|
300.00
|
244.00
|
357.00
|
152.00
|
What Things Cost in Bangkok
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Thai Baht
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US$
|
Taxi from the airport to the city center including expressway toll
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250
|
6.10
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Local telephone call (private pay phone) per minute
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3
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.07
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Double at The Oriental (very expensive)
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12,300
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300
|
Double at The Royal Princess (moderate)
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3,600
|
88
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Double at the Atlanta (inexpensive)
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500
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12.20
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Dinner for one, without wine, at Salathip (moderate)
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700
|
17
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Dinner for one, without wine, at Cabbages & Condoms (inexpensive)
|
350
|
8.50
|
Dinner for one, without wine, at a food court (inexpensive)
|
100
|
2.50
|
Bottle of beer at a hotel bar
|
150
|
3.65
|
Bottle of beer at a local bar
|
80
|
1.95
|
Coca-Cola
|
15
|
.35
|
Cup of coffee
|
20–50
|
.50–1.22
|
Roll of ASA 100 Kodacolor film, 36 exposures
|
120
|
2.90
|
Admission to the National Museum
|
40
|
1
|
Movie ticket
|
100–140
|
2.43–3.40
|
PLUS (Tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com). Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home and again, be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they’re rarely more than $1.50).
You can also get cash advances on your credit card at an ATM. Keep in mind that credit card companies try to protect themselves from theft by limiting the funds someone can withdraw outside their home country, so call your credit card company before you leave home.
Traveler’s checks are something of an anachronism from the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time. Traveler’s checks used to be the only sound alternative to traveling with dangerously large amounts of cash. They were as reliable as currency, but, unlike cash, could be replaced if lost or stolen. These days, traveler’s checks are less necessary because most cities have 24-hour ATMs that allow you to withdraw small amounts of cash as needed. However, keep in mind that you will likely be charged an ATM withdrawal fee if the bank is not your own, so if you’re withdrawing money every day, you might be better off with traveler’s checks—provided that you don’t mind showing identification every time you want to cash one.
You can get traveler’s checks at almost any bank. American Express offers denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and (for cardholders only) $1,000. You’ll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%. You can also get American Express traveler’s checks over the phone by calling tel. 800/221-7282; Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the 1% fee. Visa offers traveler’s checks at Citibank locations nationwide, as well as at several other banks. The service charge ranges between 1.5% and 2%; checks come in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and $1,000. Call tel. 800/732-1322 for information. AAA members can obtain Visa checks without a fee at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378. MasterCard also offers traveler’s checks. Call tel. 800/223-9920 for a location near you. If you choose to carry traveler’s
checks, be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You’ll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.
In Thailand, traveler’s checks are easily exchanged in most banks, hotels, tourist-oriented shops, and at the many exchange counters (best rates are at the bank).
Credit cards are a safe way to carry money, they provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer good exchange rates.
You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN (personal identification number). If you’ve forgotten yours, or didn’t even know you had one, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother’s maiden name or some other personal information. Your credit card company will likely charge a commission (1% or 2%) on every foreign purchase you make, but don’t sweat this small stuff; for most purchases, you’ll still get the best deal with credit cards when you factor in things like ATM fees and higher traveler’s check exchange rates. For tips and telephone numbers to call if your wallet is stolen or lost, go to “Lost & Found” in the Fast Facts section of this chapter.
When you change money, ask for some small bills or loose change, called “small money” in Thai-English. Petty cash will come in handy for tipping and public transportation. Consider keeping the change separate from your larger bills, so that it’s readily accessible and you’ll be less of a target for theft.
Nearly all international hotels and larger businesses accept major credit cards, but none accept personal checks. Despite protest from credit card companies, many establishments add a 3% to 5% surcharge for payment by credit card (this above and beyond any fees levied by your credit company). Take care when using your card: Don’t let it out of your sight, even for a moment, and be sure to keep all receipts. Never leave your cards with others for safekeeping (such as during a trek). If you don’t want to carry them, put them in a hotel safe. There have been numerous reports of charges having been made while cards were left at guesthouses, or small shops running extra slips against a card. So traveler’s checks might be the safest bet. In smaller towns and remote provinces, the baht will be the only acceptable currency. To report a lost or stolen credit card in Thailand, call these service lines: American Express (Tel. 0 2273-5544); Diners Club (Tel. 0 2238-3660) MasterCard (Tel. 0 2260-8572); and Visa (Tel. 0 2256-7326).
Some credit card companies recommend that you notify them of any impending trip abroad so that they don’t become suspicious when the card is used numerous times in a foreign destination and your charges are blocked. Even if you don’t call your credit card company in advance, you can always call the card’s toll-free emergency number (see “Lost and Found” in “Fast Facts,” later in this chapter) if a charge is refused—a good reason to carry the phone number with you. But perhaps the most important lesson here is to carry more than one card with you on your trip; a card might not work for any number of reasons, so having a backup is the smart way to go.
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| Hot season in Thailand with temperatures averaging in the upper 90s Fahrenheit (mid-30s Celsius |
Many holidays are based on the Thai lunar calendar, falling on the full moon of each month; check with the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; www.tat.or.th) for the current year’s schedule. Chapter 10, “Exploring Northern Thailand,” includes a list of festivals and events specific to the north. On national holidays, all government offices and some shops and offices are closed. All transport still runs on holidays and restaurants and nightlife establishments are open with the exception of Buddhist Lent in July, HM Queen Sirikit’s Birthday in August, and HM King Bhumibol’s Birthday in December, when almost all bars stop serving alcohol for the day.
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| Makha Bucha Day, Prachinburi, Thailand |
Chakri Memorial Day (Apr 6) and Songkran (Apr 13–15). Chakri Memorial Day commemorates the founding of the Chakri dynasty (the reigning dynasty), while Songkran is the New Year according to the Thai calendar. While the official New Year is on the 13th, Songkran festivals last from 3 to 10 days—with the most exciting celebration happening in Chiang Mai. After honoring local abbots and family elders, folks hit the streets for massive water fights. Be warned—foreigners are the Thais’ favorite targets. Water guns are available at all markets—arm thyself and have a blast!
May brings many public holidays—National Labor Day falls on the 1st, Coronation Day (celebrating the coronation of HM King Bhumibol in 1950) is on the 5th, while the 14th is Royal Ploughing Day, the first day of the rice-planting cycle, which is celebrated with a traditional Brahman parade. Visakha Bucha Day—marking the birth, enlightenment, and death of the Buddha—will fall in mid-May depending on the lunar calendar.
In mid-July, Thais celebrate the Buddhist Lent immediately following Asarnha Bucha Day signaling the beginning of the Rains’ Retreat and the 3-month period of meditation for all Buddhist monks—this was the day that the Buddha delivered his First Sermon to the first five disciples.
August 12 honors the birthday of HM Queen Sirikit and also Mother’s Day.
On October 23, Chulalongkorn Day, the country’s favorite king, Rama V, is remembered. Loy Krathong, in early November, is Thailand’s most beautiful holiday, honoring the water spirit and serving as a day to wash away sins committed during the previous year. The most spectacular celebrations are in Ayutthaya, Sukhothai, and Chiang Mai.
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| HM King Bhumibol's birthday and Father's Day, Decomber 5 |
Check with the Tourist Authority of Thailand (the TAT, hot line & 1672;www.tat.org. and listings in each chapter) for more information on the events listed below, as well as for other holidays celebrated by local people of various regions throughout Thailand; also see specific chapters for regional information and local schedules.
Chinese New Year, Bangkok. Head for Chinatown to celebrate the New Year with a Chingay parade—complete with Lion Dance. Celebrated everywhere, but most raucous in Bangkok’s Chinatown or Chinese neighborhoods in any city (during the end of the lunar year in Jan or early Feb).
Flower Festival, Chiang Mai. When all of the north is in bloom, Chiang Mai springs to life with parades, floats decorated with flowers, and beauty contests (1st weekend).
Poi Sang Long, Mae Hong Son. An auspicous day preceeding Buddhist Lent (different every year so check with TAT at tel. 1672). Young monks are paraded through the streets and feted with offering to celebrate their ordination.
Pattaya Festival, Pattaya. Parades and fireworks accompany a food festival and lots of partying (1st week). International Kite Festival, Bangkok. The place to see this national pastime, with contests and displays (3rd week).
Phi Ta Khon, Loei. This Buddhist festival features a procession of masked dancers and recitations from monks. Celebrated on the arrival of the fifth or sixth lunar month (check with the TAT tel. 1672) for details.
Boat Races, Phitsanulok, Narathiwat. Races, country fairs, and parades to mark the end of the rains (1st week of each month).
Vegetarian Festival, Phuket. Chinese religious festival with parades, temple ceremonies, and athletic competitions (2nd week for 9 days).
Elephant Roundup, Surin. Elephant parades, demonstrations, and cultural performances (3rd weekend).
King’s Cup Regatta, Phuket. Global competitors race yachts in this international event (Dec 7–13).
Having proper coverage while on-tour in Thailand is important. Check your existing insurance policies and credit card coverage before you buy travel insurance. You may already be covered for lost luggage, cancelled tickets, or medical expenses. The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the cost and length of your trip, your age, health, and the type of trip you’re taking.
Trip-cancellation insurance helps you get your money back if you have to back out of a trip, if you have to go home early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Allowed reasons for cancellation can range from sickness to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe for travel. (Insurers usually won’t cover vague fears, though, as many travelers discovered who tried to cancel their trips in Oct 2001 because they were wary of flying.) In this unstable world, trip-cancellation insurance is a good buy if you’re getting tickets well in advance—who knows what the state of the world, or of your airline, will be in 9 months? Insurance policy details vary, so read the fine print—and especially make sure that your airline or cruise line is on the list of carriers covered in case of bankruptcy.
For information, contact one of the following insurers: Access America (Tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (Tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (Tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (Tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelexinsurance.com). MEDICAL INSURANCE Most health insurance policies cover you if you get sick away from home—but check, particularly if you’re insured by an HMO. With the exception of certain HMOs and Medicare/Medicaid, your medical insurance should cover medical treatment—even hospital care—overseas. However, most outof-country hospitals make you pay your bills up front and send you a refund after you’ve returned home and filed the necessary paperwork. And in a worst-case scenario, there’s the high cost of emergency evacuation. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX International (Tel. 800/527-0218 or 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (Tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company’s Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710).
On domestic flights, checked baggage is covered up to $2,500 per ticketed passenger. On international flights (including U.S. portions of international trips), baggage is limited to approximately $9.07 per pound, up to approximately $635 per checked bag. If you plan to check items more valuable than the standard liability, see if your valuables are covered by your homeowner’s policy, get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travel-insurance package, or buy Travel Guard’s “BagTrak” product. Don’t buy insurance at the airport, as it’s usually overpriced. Be sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on luggage, as many valuables (including books, money and electronics) aren’t covered by airline policies.
If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. For most airlines, you must report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines are
required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free of charge.
Quick ID
Tie a colorful ribbon or piece of yarn around your luggage handle, or slap a distinctive sticker on the side of your bag. This makes it less likely that someone will mistakenly appropriate it. And if your luggage gets lost, it will be easier to find.
Thailand poses no specific health hazard that requires immunization, but the same cautions for visiting rugged, tropical climes applies to the more remote areas of the Thai kingdom. Most health-care professionals in the West are able to supply you with information about health problems specific to the region, and it is recommended that travelers have current immunizations for Hepatitis A and Tetanus. Heat and humidity combined with sometimes less sanitary conditions than most are used to in their home countries means that it is important to watch for infections; wash any wound promptly and keep covered.
Dispensaries and hospital facilities in Thailand, especially in urban centers, are on par with most of the west and even the smallest towns will have some tenable facility or provide transport to a good hospital. Many Thai doctors and health-care professionals receive training abroad, and, in fact, places like Bumrungrad Hospital (Tel. 02667-1000; www.bumrungrad.com.) in Bangkok and the better facilities in Phuket have given rise to a unique phenomenon of “medical tourism,” where visitors take care of medical problems, anything from dental work to plastic surgery, and, because of the affordability of medical care in Thailand (and at the same high standard of quality) are able to combine their recovery with a beach vacation or enjoy the comforts of big-city Bangkok in the process.
STOMACH TROUBLE Don’t drink the water and watch what you eat. The most common illness in these parts is diarrhea. Often, just the abrupt change in climate and diet bring on an uncomfortable bout of Montezuma’s Revenge that takes all the fun out of touring temples or riding rural buses. It’s a good idea to bring with you a good over-thecounter antidiarrhea medicine such as Imodium A.D., an electrolyte supplement to mix in plenty of water (to prevent dehydration and loss of energy), and, above all, a roll of toilet paper or packet of tissues for while you’re away from your hotel. Don’t count on public toilets having any. Some cases of diarrhea are caused by bacteria or viruses in either food or drinking water. Be sure to stick to canned or bottled drinks or the bottled water sold everywhere. While food in most restaurants is perfectly safe, be wary of street food. If you eat from a street stall, check ingredients for freshness and cleanliness. Watch the cook prepare food before you and never eat anything that looks like it’s been sitting around. Avoid anything raw—vegetables included—from vendors.
If your condition lasts for more than 24 hours and you have painful cramps, chances are you’ve picked something up and should find a doctor for possible antibiotic treatment.
A can be avoided using the same precautions for diarrhea. Most Asians are immune through exposure, but people from the West are very susceptible.
Talk to your doctor about receiving a vaccine before your trip. Major tourist areas such as Bangkok, Phuket, Koh Samui, and Chiang Mai are malaria free. However, malaria is still a problem in rural parts, particularly territories in the mountains to the north and near borders. Don’t bother with prophylactic tablets like chloroquine; they don’t work here. The only solution is to cover up with long pants and sleeves after dark, stay indoors, sleep with mosquito netting, and use repellents. Make sure your repellent is specially made for the tropics. DEET works well, but it is a toxic chemical, so you may want to find a spray with low concentrations. If, despite these precautions, you develop a fever within 2 weeks of entering a high-risk area, be sure to consult a physician.
Dengue fever is a problem throughout Southeast Asia, and recent years have seen epidemics in the region. Similar to malaria, the virus is spread by mosquito bites, but the mosquitoes that carry the virus only bite during the day. There is no existing prophylactic, so like malaria your best bet is to avoid being bitten. Symptoms include fever, a skin rash, and severe headaches. Seek medical attention.
For foreign visitors, the disease is rarely fatal, but for people who are native of endemic areas, the internal hemorrhaging caused by the virus often kills.
Japanese encephalitis is a viral infection that attacks the brain and is spread by mosquito bite. Outbreaks have been known to occur in the region, so stay abreast of the most up-to-date CDC information. Like malaria and dengue, the best protection is to avoid being bitten.
One of the biggest concerns are mosquitoes. Take appropriate precautions. It’s not a bad idea to wear long trousers instead of shorts (also more acceptable in Thai culture) as protection against not just mosquito bites, but ticks, snakes and other pests, as well as to spare yourself cuts and scrapes that can get infected, most important when on jungle treks. Do not get creative about nibbling bush-tucker, even if you think you know what kind of mushroom it is, because there are some real nasty ones in this part of the world. When venturing into thick jungle terrain, do so with a qualified guide, of course, and keep an eye out for the many creepy-crawlies: it’s a jungle out there.
Rabies is a concern in Thailand as are bites from any stray dogs, infected or not. You’ll see some pretty miserable canines in your travels in Thailand—sick and diseased, sleeping on the side of the road, limping through markets, hanging around temple complexes where monks do their karmic duty and feed the animals (though never care for them beyond that). Occasionally, a rabid animal makes its way into the mix. Stay clear of stray dogs, and find a doctor fast if you’ve been bitten. The sooner you receive treatment, the better. All Thai dogs have been whacked with sticks and hit by flying rocks so even miming those actions is often enough of a deterrent.
Don’t swim in freshwater streams or pools (other than chlorinated hotel pools), as they are frequently contaminated. Avoid the ocean near the outlets of sewage pipes and freshwater streams, because of contaminated water—poisonous sea snakes often inhabit these areas. Be especially careful of coral reefs (such as those along Phuket), jellyfish, and sea urchins, and treat all cuts or stings immediately by washing with soap and water and applying an antimicrobal preparation. Antihistamines can help with allergic
responses. Ear infections are a common problem; those prone to ear infections can use mild boric acid or vinegar solutions to prevent or combat them.
Avoid sunstroke or heat exhaustion by exercising caution when getting active out in the roasting sunlight. Thailand’s slower pace of life is in fact dictated by the hot and humid weather so (when in Rome) take it easy, stay out of the noon-day sun, and drink lots of liquid to avoid dehydration. Bottled water is inexpensive and widely available. Avoid excessive exposure to the sun, use a strong sunscreen, and wear a hat for protection. Restricting alcohol consumption and eating light meals will help you to acclimate.
Medical services in Thailand are good, and over-the-counter dispensaries are comparable with standards in the West. Most offer prescription drugs on an as-needed basis, the pharmacist more or less acts as a diagnostician in many parts. In an emergency, do not hesitate to contact your county’s embassy. In most cases, your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need. But double-check; you may want to buy travel medical insurance instead. (See the section on insurance, above.) Bring your insurance ID card with you when you travel.
If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions like epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a Medic Alert Identification Tag (Tel. 800/825-3785; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through Medic Alert’s 24-hour hot line. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry prescription medications in their original containers, with pharmacy labels—otherwise they won’t make it through airport security. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Don’t forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.
Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (Tel. 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you’re visiting and lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (Tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on necessary vaccines and health hazards by region or country. Any foreign consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you get sick, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor—even his or her own. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital; many have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not lifethreatening. You may not get immediate attention, but you won’t pay the high price of an emergency room visit.
Thailand is in general a very safe destination, meaning that you are less likely to experience violent crime as in most countries in the West. Of concern though are the kingdom’s many pickpockets and scam artists, especially in Bangkok. Keep an eye on valuables in crowded places—a good rule of thumb for any destination—and be wary of anyone who approaches you in the street to solicit your friendship; however genuine the entreaty, many visitors find more than they bargain for and waste precious time on “shopping tours” where your “guide” will collect a commission and keep you from getting where you’d like to go. In general, even in big cities, you are safe to walk at night (the biggest danger being aggressive stray dogs, see “Rabies” under the health section above). Women traveling alone generally find Thailand an amenable place but should keep on guard, especially at night. Avoid public conflict in Thailand, something that is just not done and a “face losing” proposition. If, for whatever reason, you find yourself in the middle of something feisty or beyond just a minor disagreement, call the tourist police: The national hot line is tel. 1155. You cannot win-out in altercations in Thailand and it is best to walk away and get assistance.
That said, Thai police are a political entity and corrupt as they come. In general, the police are not there to protect and serve as much as they are there to harass and collect, so just steer clear of any official or military doings unless in need of help (and in that case go to the English-speaking tourist police). Traffic and chaotic road conditions are probably the biggest dangers for visitors to Thailand. Thai drivers pass aggressively and must weave to avoid the many obstacles on busy roads. Self-drive car rental makes sense only in places like the far north, rural Isan in the northeast, or in some of the resort destinations, but extreme caution should be taken and defensive driving skills are key. If you do get in an accident, Thai style is to negotiate a settlement at roadside, but you’ll want to contact local officials and go from there. An old Asia hand I know says that the best insurance policy you could take out in Thailand and elsewhere in the region is to never get on a motorcycle, whether as a driver or passenger on the back of a motorbike taxi. Good advice, but it’s apparent from the many banged, bruised and mummy wrapped travelers limping around Thai resort areas (not to mention the frightening statistics of the many deaths annually) that few heed the warning. Motorbikes are the most convenient way to get around (and park) and are available for rent in most tourist centers, but visitors should exercise great caution. The political situation in Thailand is quite stable, a constitutional monarchy, but as recently as the early 1990s,
Thailand was turned on its ear with a military coupe. The national police force, military, and citizenry constantly bounce around the shuttlecock of power, and when one faction gets too big for its britches there is a shift. But you are unlikely to be caught-up in any political issues in Thailand. A good way to get in real trouble though is to get involved in drugs and prostitution, the very “dark influences” against which the current conservative government rails. However tempting, drug use, even a casual toke off of someone’s “Thai stick,” is to be avoided completely. There is a zerotolerance policy, and unless you can cough up the right bribe on the spot, you’ll be in a grimy cell before you can shout “Embassy!” Many tourists are attracted to Thailand for the loose restrictions on paid sex, and despite recent pressures, sex tourism is a major draw to Thailand. If you indulge, take extreme caution. See the info below.
Thai people are very accepting, but there is a certain institutionalized racism in old Siam. Caucasian foreigners are called “Falang” (a bastardization of “France” pronounced by the first colonists and a word that also means “guava”) and occupy a high place (no matter their actions) in the scheme of things. Thais follow a codified hierarchy, with niches for Thais of Chinese heritage, who own and operate much of Thai businesses and commerce, and people from Isan, the impoverished northeast of the kingdom, who come to work the more menial jobs in the big cities in Thailand, and all levels in-between. Foreign visitors are overcharged for all goods and services, and some take this personally, as some form of discrimination, but it is Thai practice that if you have more, you are meant to give more. The rule applies to Thais as well and, regardless of your budget, you are wealthy in Thailand. Skills in bargaining and getting the “local price” come in time.
Every day you’re in Thailand, in any part of the country, you will see foreigners enjoying the company of Thai women and men. Although prostitution is illegal, it is tolerated and is as much a tourist draw as the kingdom’s hotels and beaches. In poor, uneducated, rural families, where sons are counted on as farm labor, the sex trades has become an income-earning occupation for daughters who have few other job alternatives. It’s true that most of the urban sex workers earn more income than their families back home, sending savings home each month to support younger siblings and older parents. While girls sent to the big cities as CSWs (the official term is “commercial sex worker”) can sometimes quietly retire and return to their villages, for every happy ending, there are many more sad tales of drug use and physical abuse.
With a legacy of royal patronage and social acceptance, the oldest profession has been part of Thailand’s economy for centuries. It is hard to get exact numbers for CSWs in Thailand (the number goes from 80,000–800,000 depending on the source), but it is interesting to note that foreigners engaging the services of prostitutes comprises only a fraction of the nationwide industry (Westerners are just more overt about their visits to brothels and are seen everywhere walking around town with their latest catch on their arm). The dark side is that though efforts at cracking down on the trades are given much lip-service, the more upfront transactions at massage parlors and go-go bars suffer while the many backroom deals, children bought and sold after being kidnapped and enslaved, carry on. Thailand has made significant steps to counter the spread of AIDS and, through education and the introduction of condoms, have reputedly stemmed the tide of new cases (though statistics are unreliable). A leading force in this effort is the Population & Community Development Association (PCDA), led by the courageous and innovative public health crusader Meechai Viravaidya. The PCDA has enlarged the scope of its rural development programs from family planning and cottage-industry schemes, to distributing condoms and running seminars for CSWs. Western embassies report numerous cases of tourists who are drugged in their hotel rooms by the girl of the night, waking 2 days later to find all their valuables gone. There are a shocking number of stories about young Western travelers found dead in their hotel rooms from unexplained causes. Exercise caution in your dealings with strangers. If you use the services of commercial sex workers, take proper precautions; men should wear a latex condom.
Most disabilities shouldn’t stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before. Visitors to Thailand will find that short of the better hotels in the larger towns, amenities for disabled travelers are inconsistent. Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Flying Wheels Travel (Tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) offers escorted tours and cruises that emphasize sports and private tours in minivans with lifts.
Accessible Journeys (Tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com) caters specifically to slow walkers and wheelchair travelers and their families and friends. Organizations that offer assistance to disabled travelers include Moss-Rehab (www.mossresourcenet.org), which provides a library of accessibletravel resources online; the Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality (SATH) (Tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org; annual membership fees: $45 adults, $30 seniors and students), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services; and the American Foundation for the Blind (Tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org), which provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs. For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities, the community website iCan (www.icanonline.net/channels/travel/index.cfm) has destination guides and several regular columns on accessible travel. Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons ($15 per year, $20outside the U.S.; www.emerginghorizons.com); Twin Peaks Press (Tel. 360/694-2462; http://disabilitybookshop.virtualave.net/blist84.htm), offering travel-related books for travelers with special needs; and Open World Magazine, published by the Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality (see above; subscription: $18 per year, $35 outside the U.S.).
Thailand is a very gay-friendly destination where “alternative” lifestyles are quite common and accepted. The same kind of red-light district nightlife that caters to heterosexual males is mirrored in places like Bangkok, Pattaya and Chiang Mai by a large gay go-go club scene as well as gay clubs and bars. Cross-dressers and Transsexuals, called “lady-boys” or Katoeys in Thai, play an important role in Thai culture and are accepted in mainstream life.
The International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) (Tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to their website and click on “Members.” Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (Tel. 800/397-2681; www.above beyondtours.com) is the exclusive gay and lesbian tour operator for United Airlines. Now, Voyager (Tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) is a well-known San Francisco–based gayowned and operated travel service. Olivia Cruises & Resorts (Tel. 800/631-6277 or 510/655-0364; www.olivia.com) charters entire resorts and ships for exclusive lesbian vacations and offers smaller group experiences for both gay and lesbian travelers. The following travel guides are available at most travel bookstores and gay and lesbian bookstores, or you can order them from Giovanni’s Room bookstore, 1145 Pine St., Philadelphia, PA 19107 (Tel. 215/923-2960;www.giovannisroom.com): Out and About (Tel. 800/929-2268 or 415-644-8044; www.outandabout.com), which offers guidebooks and a newsletter 10 times a year packed with solid information on the global gay and lesbian scene; Spartacus International Gay Guide (Bruno Gmunder Verlag) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner (Odysseus Enterprises Ltd.), both good, annual English-language guidebooks focused on gay men; the Damron guides (Damron Company), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians; and Gay Travel A to Z: The World of Gay & Lesbian Travel Options at Your Fingertips by Marianne Ferrari (Ferrari Publications; Box 35575, Phoenix, AZ 85069), a very good gay and lesbian guidebook series. SENIOR TRAVEL Mention the fact that you’re a senior citizen when you make your travel reservations; you may be able to secure special discounts on tours and airline reservations. Senior citizens, though highly revered in Thai society, will not however receive any special discounts at Thai attractions. Members of AARP (formerly known as the American Association of Retired Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (Tel. 800/424-3410 or 202/434-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP: The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join. Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market.
Elderhostel (Tel. 877/426-8056; www.elderhostel.org) arranges study programs for those aged 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the U.S. and in more than 80 countries around the world. Most courses last 5 to 7 days in the U.S. (2–4 weeks abroad), and many include airfare, accommodations in university dormitories or modest inns, meals, and tuition. ElderTreks (Tel. 800/741-7956; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beatenpath or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older. Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 and Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com); Travel Unlimited:
Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon); 101 Tips for Mature Travelers, available from Grand Circle Travel (Tel. 800/221-2610 or 617/350-7500; www.gct.com); The 50+ Traveler’s Guidebook (St. Martin’s Press); and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50 (McGraw-Hill).
If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning, dragging them thousands of miles away may seem like an insurmountable challenge. But family travel can be immensely rewarding, giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of eyes. Thailand must look pretty amazing through the eyes of a child and travel here will certainly broaden the horizons of young visitors, but the often-rugged conditions in the countryside are best to be avoided. Bangkok and any of the larger cities would be a good start, and all of the resort areas have kid-friendly programs, hotels with kids’ clubs, connecting rooms, sports equipment rental and kid-oriented group activities. Many of the larger hotels offer special deals for families with children. Look for the kids icon for any special features and remember that children will need a valid passport to enter Thailand.
Familyhostel (Tel. 800/733-9753; www.learn.unh.edu/familyhostel) takes the whole family, including kids ages 8 to 15, on moderately priced domestic and international learning vacations. Lectures, fields trips, and sightseeing are guided by a team of academics. You can find good family-oriented vacation advice on the Internet from sites like the Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com); Traveling Internationally with Your Kids (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravel files.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-thebeaten-path tours and tour operators for families.
How to Take Great Trips with Your Kids (The Harvard Common Press) is full of good general advice that can apply to travel anywhere.
Women travelers face no particular discrimination or dangers in Thailand, nor is there anything permitting them entree to Thai culture. Women should, however, be very careful when dealing with monks: Never touch a monk, never hand anything directly to them (should be set on the floor in front of the monk or given to a man who will hand it the them directly) and don’t sit next to monks on public transport. Some parts of temples do not allow women, but there will be signs to that effect. Thais are modest, though the scanty fashion trend in places like Bangkok would tell you otherwise. Women should avoid short-shorts or going topless at beaches. At Muslim temples, quite prevalent in the south, be sure to wear a long skirt or trousers and have shoulders covered.
The only other problem single women face in Thailand is the constant questioning: “Are you married?” Friends tell me it’s like everyone is that grandmother who is eager for more grandkids. Thais commonly marry quite young and get right to the business of building a family, and anything short of that is, to Thais, somehow pitiable. Don’t take it personally.
Women Welcome Women World Wide (5W) (Tel. 203/259-7832 in the U.S.; www.womenwelcomewomen.org.uk) works to foster international
friendships by enabling women of different countries to visit one another (men can come along on the trips; they just can’t join the club). It’s a big, active organization, with more than 3,500 members from all walks of life in some 70 countries. Check out the website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a lively travel resource, with “GirlTalk Guides” to destinations like New York, Hong Kong, and Toronto and a free e-mail newsletter; or the travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel b Sheila Swan Laufer and Peter Laufer (Travelers’ Tales, Inc.), offering common-sense advice and tips on safe travel.
Agencies and organizations that provide resources for black travelers include: Rodgers Travel (Tel. 215/473-1775; www.rodgerstravel.com), a Philadelphia-based travel agency with an extensive menu of tours in destinations worldwide, including heritage and private group tours; the African-American Association of Innkeepers International (Tel. 877/422-5777;www.africanamericaninns.com), which provides information on member B&Bs in the U.S., Canada, and the Caribbean; and Henderson Travel and Tours (Tel. 800/327-2309 or 301/650-5700; www.hendersontravel.com), which has specialized in trips to Africa since 1957. The Internet offers a number of helpful travel sites for the black traveler.
Black Travel Online (www.blacktravelonline.com) posts news on upcoming events and includes links to articles and travel-booking sites. Soul of America (www.soulofamerica.com) is a more comprehensive website, with travel tips, event and family reunion postings, and sections on historically black beach resorts and active vacations. For more information, check out the following collections and guides:
Go Girl: The Black Woman’s Guide to Travel & Adventure (Eighth Mountain Press), a compilation of travel essays by writers including Jill Nelson and Audre Lorde, with some practical information and trip-planning advice; The African American Travel Guide by Wayne Robinson (Hunter Publishing; must be bought direct at www.hunterpublishing.com), with details on 19 North American cities; Steppin’ Out by Carla Labat (Avalon), with details on 20 cities; Travel and Enjoy Magazine (Tel. 866/266-6211; www.travelandenjoy.com; subscription: $24 per year), which focuses on discounts and destination reviews; and the more narrative Pathfinders Magazine (Tel. 877/977-PATH; www.pathfinderstravel.com;subscription: $15 per year), which includes articles on everything from Rio de Janeiro to Ghana.
Discounts for students in Thailand and the rest of Southeast Asia are better earned by the tenacity of the individual travelers bargaining skills and tolerance for sub-standard accommodation rather than flashing a student ID. The International Student Identity Card (ISIC), however, offers substantial savings on plane tickets and some entrance fees. It also provides you with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is available for $22 from STA Travel (Tel. 800/781-4040, and if you’re not in North America there’s probably a local number in your country; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world. If you’re no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get a International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) for the same price from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts (but not on museum admissions). Travel CUTS (Tel. 800/667-2887 or 416/614-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students should turn to USIT (Tel. 01/602-1600; www.usitnow.ie)
Many people prefer traveling alone, and for independent travelers, solo journeys offer infinite opportunities to make friends and meet locals, especially in Thailand where large groups of foreigners may seem rather intimidating to local people. Most hotels offer “single” rates. If, however, you like resorts, tours, or cruises, you’re likely to get hit with a “single supplement” to the base price. Single travelers can avoid these supplements, of course, by agreeing to room with other single travelers on the trip. An even better idea is to find a compatible roommate before you go from one of the many roommate locator agencies.
Travel Companion Exchange (TCE) (Tel. 631/454-0880; www.travelcompanions.com) is one of the nation’s oldest roommate finders for single travelers. Register with them and find a travel mate who will split the cost of the room with you and be around as little, or as often, as you like during the day. Travel Buddies Singles Travel Club (Tel. 800/998-9099; www.travelbuddiesworldwide.com), based in Canada, runs small, intimate, single-friendly group trips and will match you with a roommate free of charge and save you the cost of single supplements. TravelChums (Tel. 212/787-2621; www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel-companion matching service with elements of an online personals-type site, hosted by the respected New York–based Shaw Guides travel service. The Single Gourmet Club (www.singlegourmet.com/chapters.html) is an international social, dining, and travel club for singles of all ages, with offices in 21 cities in the U.S. and Canada. Membership costs $75 for the first year, $50 to renew. Many reputable tour companies offer singles-only trips. Singles Travel International (Tel. 877/765-6874; www.singlestravelintl.com) offers singles-only trips to places like London, Fiji, and the Greek Islands. Backroads (Tel. 800/462-2848; www.backroads.com) offers more than 160 active trips to 30 destinations worldwide, including Bali, Morocco, and Costa Rica.For more information, check out Eleanor Berman’s Traveling Solo:Advice and Ideas for More Than 250 Great Vacations (Globe Pequot), a guide with advice on traveling alone, whether on your own or on a group tour. (It’s been updated for 2003.) Or turn to the Travel Alone and Love It website (www.travelaloneandloveit.com), designed by former flight attendant Sharon Wingler, the author of the book of the same name. Her site is full of tips for single travelers.
The “big three” online travel agencies, Expedia.com, Travelocity.com, and Orbitz.com sell most of the air tickets bought on the Internet. (Canadian travelers should try expedia.ca and Travelocity.ca; U.K. residents can go for expedia.co.uk and opodo.co.uk.) Each has different business deals with the airlines and may offer different fares on the same flights, so it’s wise to shop around. Expedia and Travelocity will also send you e-mail notification when a cheap fare becomes available to your favorite destination. Of the smaller travel agency websites, Side-Step (www.sidestep.com) has gotten the best reviews from Frommer’s authors. It’s a browser add-on that purports to “search 140 sites at once,” but in reality only beats competitors’ fares as often as other sites do. Also remember to check airline websites, especially those for low-fare carriers such as Southwest, JetBlue, AirTran, WestJet, or Ryanair, whose fares are often misreported or simply missing from travel agency websites. Even with major airlines, you can often shave a few bucks from a fare by booking directly through the airline and avoiding a travel agency’s transaction fee. But you’ll get these discounts only by booking online: Most airlines now offer online-only fares that even their phone agents know nothing about. For the websites of airlines that fly to and from your destination, go to “Getting There,” below.
The “big three” online travel agencies, Expedia.com, Travelocity.com, and Orbitz.com sell most of the air tickets bought on the Internet. (Canadian travelers should try expedia.ca and Travelocity.ca; U.K. residents can go for expedia.co.uk and opodo.co.uk.) Each has different business deals with the airlines and may offer different fares on the same flights, so it’s wise to shop around. Expedia and Travelocity will also send you e-mail notification when a cheap fare becomes available to your favorite destination. Of the smaller travel agency websites, Side-Step (www.sidestep.com) has gotten the best reviews from Frommer’s authors. It’s a browser add-on that purports to “search 140 sites at once,” but in reality only beats competitors’ fares as often as other sites do. Also remember to check airline websites, especially those for low-fare carriers such as Southwest, JetBlue, AirTran, WestJet, or Ryanair, whose fares are often misreported or simply missing from travel agency websites. Even with major airlines, you can often shave a few bucks from a fare by booking directly through the airline and avoiding a travel agency’s transaction fee. But you’ll get these discounts only by booking online: Most airlines now offer online-only fares that even their phone agents know nothing about. For the websites of airlines that fly to and from your destination, go to “Getting There,” below.
Great last-minute deals are available through free weekly e-mail services provided directly by the airlines. Most of these are announced on Tuesday or Wednesday and must be purchased online. Most are only valid for travel that weekend, but some (such as Southwest’s) can be booked weeks or months in advance. Sign up for weekly e-mail alerts at airline websites or check mega-sites that compile comprehensive lists of last-minute specials, such as Smarter Living (smarterliving.com). For last-minute trips, site59.com in the U.S. and lastminute.com in Europe often have better deals than the major-label sites. If you’re willing to give up some control over your flight details, use an opaque fare service like Priceline (www.priceline.com; www.priceline.co.uk for Europeans) or Hotwire (www.hotwire.com). Both offer rockbottom prices in exchange for travel on a “mystery airline” at a mysterious time of day, often with a mysterious Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource For an excellent travel-planning resource, we highly recommend Frommers.com (www.frommers.com). We’re a little biased, of course, but we guarantee that you’ll find the travel tips, reviews, monthly vacation giveaways, and online-booking capabilities thoroughly indispensable. Among the special features are our popular Message Boards, where Frommer’s readers post queries and share advice (sometimes even our authors show up to answer questions); Frommers.com Newsletter, for the latest travel bargains and insider travel secrets; and Frommer’s Destinations Section, where you’ll get expert travel tips, hotel and dining recommendations, and advice on the sights to see for more than 3,000 destinations around the globe. When your research is done, the Online Reservations System (www.frommers.com/book_a_trip) takes you to Frommer’s preferred online partners for booking your vacation at affordable prices. change of planes en route. The mystery airlines are all major, well-known carriers—and the possibility of being sent from Philadelphia to Chicago via Tampa is remote; the airlines’ routing computers have gotten a lot better than they used to be. But your chances of getting a 6am or 11pm flight are pretty high. Hotwire tells you flight prices before you buy; Priceline usually has better deals than Hotwire, but you have to play their “name our price” game. If you’re new at this, the helpful folks at BiddingForTravel (www.biddingfortravel.com) do a good job of demystifying Priceline’s prices.
Priceline and Hotwire are great for flights within North America and between the U.S. and Europe. But for flights to other parts of the world, consolidators will almost always beat their fares. For much more about airfares and savvy air-travel tips and advice, pickup a copy of Frommer’s Fly Safe, Fly Smart (Wiley Publishing, Inc.).
Bidding for hotels online is not a bad option for the larger properties in big cities, but many of the discounts you’ll find in the kingdom come from keen bargaining skills. There are lots of sites offering booking options in Thai hotels, but few offer significant discounts (and some are a bit shady). Try the bigger online services to get an idea of what’s out there: Expedia is good, Travelocity runs a close second and hotel specialist sites hotels.com and hoteldiscounts.com are also reliable. An excellent free program, TravelAxe (www.travelaxe.net), can help you search multiple hotel sites at once, even ones you may never have heard of. Priceline and Hotwire are even better for hotels than for airfares; with both, you’re allowed to pick the neighborhood and quality level of your hotel before offering up your money.
Priceline’s hotel product even covers Europe and Asia, though it’s much better at getting five-star lodging for three-star prices than at finding anything at the bottom of the scale. Note: Hotwire overrates its hotels by one star—what Hotwire calls a four-star is a three-star anywhere else.
Travelers have any number of ways to check their e-mail and access the Internet on the road. Of course, using your own laptop—or even a PDA (personal digital assistant) or electronic organizer with a modem—gives you the most flexibility. But even if you don’t have a computer, you can still access your e-mail and even your office computer from Internet cafes.
Internet cafes are anywhere and everywhere in Thailand. Hotel business centers and Internet corners charge comparably exorbitant rates, but you can find very affordable service, for as little as 20B (50¢) per hour. Tourist centers, particularly near budget accommodation in places like Bangkok’s Khao San road or on the main tourist strips of beach destinations, are choc-a-bloc with cafes set-up especially for foreign visitors. When out in the country, you’ll find small shops full of school-kids playing online shoot-em-up games and most offer acceptable dial-up service. Although there’s no definitive directory for cybercafes—these are independent businesses, after all—three places to start looking at are www.cybercaptive.com, www.netcafeguide.com, and www.cybercafe.com.
Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their gates. These kiosks, which you’ll also see in shopping malls, hotel lobbies, and tourist information offices around the world, give you basic Web access for a per-minute fee that’s usually higher than cybercafe prices. The kiosks’ clunkiness and high price means they should be avoided whenever possible. To retrieve your e-mail, ask your Internet Service Provider (ISP) if it has a Web-based interface tied to your existing e-mail account. If your ISP doesn’t have such an interface, you can use the free mail2web service (www.mail2web.com) to view and reply to your home e-mail. For more flexibility, you may want to open a free, Web-based e-mail account with Yahoo! Mail (http://mail.yahoo.com). (Microsoft’s Hotmail is another popular option, but Hotmail has severe spam problems.) Your home ISP may be able to forward your e-mail to the Web-based account automatically. If you need to access files on your office computer, look into a service called GoToMyPC (www.gotomypc.com). The service provides a Webbased interface for you to access and manipulate a distant PC from anywhere—even a cybercafe—provided your “target” PC is on and has an always-on connection to the Internet (such as with Road Runner cable). The service offers top-quality security, but if you’re worried about hackers, use your own laptop rather than a cybercafe to access the GoToMyPC system.
Thailand supports a useful pre-paid Internet scheme, called CS Loxinfo, whereby users buy a card with a login name and password (under a scratchoff strip). Cards are available at any convenience store. Just follow the directions (you’ll need a laptop with modem and an Internet browser), and you are online for as little as 10B (25¢) per hour (plus the cost of using hotel phone lines, which can be exorbitant). Major Internet Service Providers (ISP) have local access numbers around the world, allowing you to go online by simply placing a local call. Check your ISP’s website or call its toll-free number and ask how you can use your current account away from home, and how much it will cost. If you’re traveling outside the reach of your ISP, the iPass network has dial-up numbers in most of the world’s countries. You’ll have to sign up with an iPass provider, who will then tell you how to set up your computer for your destination(s). For a list of iPass providers, go to www.ipass.com and click on “Reseller Locator.” Under “Select a Country” pick the country that you’re coming from, and under “Who is this service for?” pick “Individual.” One solid provider is i2roam (Tel. 866/811-6209 or 920/235-0475; www.i2roam.com). Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable. See “Electricity” under Fast Facts, later in this chapter. Most business-class hotels offer dataports for laptop modems, some with high-speed Internet access using an Ethernet network cable. You’ll have to bring your own cables either way, so check with hotels in advance to find out what the options are. Community-minded individuals have also set up free wireless networks in major cities around the world. These networks are spotty, but you get what you (don’t) pay for. Each network has a home page explaining how to set up your computer for their particular system; start your explorations at www.personaltelco.net/index.cgi/WirelessCommunities.
The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cell-phone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile, AT&T Wireless, and Cingular use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable phone such as many (but not all) Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas on much of the globe, from Andorra to Uganda. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high—usually $1 to $1.50 in Western Europe and up to $5 in places like Russia and Indonesia. World-phone owners can bring down their per-minute charges with a bit of trickery. Call up your cellular operator and say you’ll be going abroad for several months and want to “unlock” your phone to use it with a local provider. Usually, they’ll oblige.
Then, in your destination country, pickup a cheap, prepaid phone chip at a mobile phone store and slip it into your phone. (Show your phone to the salesperson, as not all phones work on all networks.) You’ll get a local phone number in your destination country—and much, much lower calling rates.
If your cell-phone is enabled to swap a SIM card (Subscriber Identity Module—a chip that you can add to some cell-phones that will enable them to be used in different countries other than your own), you’ll be able to use your phone just about anywhere in the Thai kingdom. The best choice for cell-phone service and assistance is at Mah Boon Krong, or MBK (Tel. 02217-9111) near National Stadium BTS station in central Bangkok (but you can get assistance with cell-phone service just about anywhere in Thailand).
Two good wireless rental companies are InTouch USA (Tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) and Road-Post (& 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). Give them your itinerary, and they’ll tell you what wireless products you need. InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to http://intouchglobal.com/travel.htm. For trips of more than a few weeks spent in one country, buying a phone becomes economically attractive, as many nations have cheap, no-questions-asked prepaid phone systems. Stop by a local cell-phone shop and get the cheapest package; you’ll probably pay less than $100 for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and, with most programs, incoming calls are free.
Two good wireless rental companies are InTouch USA (Tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) and Road-Post (& 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). Give them your itinerary, and they’ll tell you what wireless products you need. InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to http://intouchglobal.com/travel.htm. For trips of more than a few weeks spent in one country, buying a phone becomes economically attractive, as many nations have cheap, no-questions-asked prepaid phone systems. Stop by a local cell-phone shop and get the cheapest package; you’ll probably pay less than $100 for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and, with most programs, incoming calls are free.
True wilderness adventurers, or those heading to less-developed countries, should consider renting a satellite phone (see above). Per-minute call charges can be even cheaper than roaming charges with a regular cell-phone, but the phone itself is more expensive (up to $150 a week), and depending on the service you choose, people calling you may incur high long-distance charges.
Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips easier. Following is a selection of online tools to bookmark and use.
Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips easier. Following is a selection of online tools to bookmark and use.
• Tourist Authority of Thailand (www.tat.org) is a comprehensive site with information on locations throughout Thailand.
• Visa ATM Locator (www.visa.com), for locations of PLUS ATMs worldwide, or MasterCard ATM Locator (www.mastercard.com), for locations of Cirrus ATMs worldwide.
• Foreign Languages for Travelers (www.travlang.com). Learn basic terms in more than 70 languages and click on any underlined phrase to hear what it sounds like.
• Intellicast (www.intellicast.com) and Weather.com (www.weather.com). Gives weather forecasts for all 50 states and for cities around the world.
• Mapquest (www.mapquest.com). This best of the mapping sites lets you choose a specific address or destination, and in seconds, it will return a map and detailed directions.
• Universal Currency Converter (www.xe.com/ucc). See what your dollar or pound is worth in more than 100 other countries.
• Travel Warnings (http://travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html, www.fco.gov.uk/travel, www.voyage.gc.ca, www.dfat.gov.au/consular/advice). These sites report on places where health concerns or unrest might threaten American, British, Canadian, and Australian travelers.
When you plan your trip, consider that Thailand has more than one international airport. While most international flights arrive in Bangkok, you can also fly direct to Phuket, Koh Samui, Hat Yai, and Chiang Mai from certain regional destinations. Specific details are provided in chapter 7 for Koh Samui and Hat Yai, chapter 8 for Phuket, and chapter 11 for Chiang Mai.
At the time of research the following routes were standard for the major international airlines serving Thailand. However, this information is subject to change.
Thai Airways International (Tel. 800/426-5204) in conjunction with United Airlines flies daily to Bangkok from Los Angeles.
United Airlines (Tel. 800/241-6522; www.ual.com) and Northwest Airlines ('800/447-4747; www.nwa.com) can connect pretty much any airport in North America to Bangkok via daily flights.
Canadian Airlines International (Tel. 800/661-2227; www.cdnair.ca) flies to Bangkok from Vancouver via Hong Kong daily.
Thai Airways (Tel. 300/651-960 toll free within Australia, 7/3215-4700 in Brisbane, or 8/9322-7522 in Perth) services Bangkok from Sydney daily and from Brisbane, Melbourne, and Perth three times a week. Qantas (Tel. 131211 toll-free within Australia; www.quantas.com) has, in addition to two dailies from Sydney and a daily flight from Melbourne, both direct, can also connect Adelaide, Brisbane and Canberra daily. British Airways (Tel. 2/8904-8800 in Sydney, 7/3223-3123 in Brisbane, 8/9425-7711 in Perth; www.british-airways.com) flies twice daily from Sydney.
Two or three flights daily, nonstop flights from London to Bangkok are offered by British Airways (Tel. 0345/22-21-11 from anywhere within the United Kingdom; www.british-airways.com).
With the federalization of airport security, security procedures at U.S. airports are more stable and consistent than ever. Generally, you’ll be fine if you arrive at the airport 1 hour before a domestic flight and 2 hours before an international flight; if you show up late, tell an airline employee, and they will whisk you to the front of the line. Bring a current, governmentissued photo ID such as a driver’s license or passport. Keep your ID at the ready to show at check-in, the security checkpoint, and sometimes even the gate.
In 2003, the TSA phased out gate check-in at all U.S. airports. Passengers with e-tickets can still beat the ticket-counter lines by using electronic kiosks or even online checkin. Ask your airline which alternatives are available, and if you’re using a kiosk, bring the credit card you used to book the ticket or your frequent-flier card. If you’re checking bags or looking to snag an exit-row seat, you will be able to do so using most airlines’ kiosks; again, call your airline for up-to-date information. Curbside check-in is also a good way to avoid lines, although a few airlines still ban curbside check-in; call before you go. Security checkpoint lines are getting shorter than they were during 2001 and 2002, but some doozies remain. If you have trouble standing for long periods of time, tell an airline employee; the airline will provide a wheelchair. Speed up security by not wearing metal objects such as big belt buckles. If you’ve got metallic
body parts, a note from your doctor can prevent a long chat with the security screeners. Keep in mind that only ticketed passengers are allowed past security, except for folks escorting disabled passengers or children.
Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can’t. The general rule is that sharp things are out, nail clippers are okay, and food and beverages must be passed through the X-ray machine—but security screeners can’t make you drink from your coffee cup. Bring food in your carry-on rather than checking it, as explosive-detection machines used on checked luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate, for some reason) for bombs. Travelers in the U.S. are allowed one carry-on bag, plus a “personal item” such as a purse, briefcase, or laptop bag. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag; as long as it has a laptop in it, it’s still considered a personal item. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has issued a list of restricted items; check its website (www.tsa.gov/public/index.jsp) for details. At press time, the TSA is also recommending that you not lock your checked luggage so screeners can search it by hand if necessary. The agency says to use plastic “zip ties” instead, which can be bought at hardware stores and can be easily cut off.
Passengers sharing the same airplane cabin rarely pay the same fare. Travelers who need to purchase tickets at the last minute, change their itinerary at a moment’s notice, or fly one-way often get stuck paying the premium rate. Here are some ways to keep your airfare costs down.
• Passengers who can book their ticket long in advance, who can stay over Saturday night, or who fly midweek or at less-trafficked hours will pay a fraction of the full fare. If your schedule is flexible, say so, and ask if you can secure a cheaper fare by changing your flight plans.
• You can also save on airfares by keeping an eye out in local newspapers
for promotional specials or fare wars, when airlines lower prices on their most popular routes. You rarely see fare wars offered for peak travel times, but if you can travel in the off months, you may snag a bargain.
• Search the Internet for cheap fares (see “Planning Your Trip Online,” earlier in this chapter).
• Try to book a ticket in its country of origin. For instance, if you’re planning a one-way flight from Johannesburg to Bombay, a South Africa–based travel agent will probably have the lowest fares. For multi-leg trips, book in the country of the first leg; for example, book New York–London–Amsterdam–Rome–New York in the U.S.
• Consolidators, also known as bucket shops, are great sources for international tickets, although they usually can’t beat the Internet on fares within North America. Start by looking in Sunday newspaper travel sections; U.S. travelers should focus on the New York Times, Los Angeles Times, and Miami Herald. For less-developed destinations, small travel agents who cater to immigrant communities in large cities often have the best deals. Beware: Bucket shop tickets are usually nonrefundable or rigged with stiff cancellation penalties, often as high as 50% to 75% of the ticket price, and some put you on charter airlines with questionable safety records. Try
Don’t Stow It—Ship It If ease of travel is your main concern and money is no object, you can ship your luggage with one of the growing number of luggage-service companies that pickup, track, and deliver your luggage (often through couriers such as Federal Express) with minimum hassle for you. Traveling luggage-free may be ultra-convenient, but it’s not cheap: One-way overnight shipping can cost from $100 to $200, depending on what you’re sending. Still, for some people, especially the elderly or the infirm, it’s a sensible solution to lugging heavy baggage. Specialists in door-to-door luggage delivery are Virtual Bellhop (www.virtualbellhop.com), Sky-Cap International (www.skycapinternational.com), and Luggage Express (www.usxpluggageexpress.com).
• Consolidators, also known as bucket shops, are great sources for international tickets, although they usually can’t beat the Internet on fares within North America. Start by looking in Sunday newspaper travel sections; U.S. travelers should focus on the New York Times, Los Angeles Times, and Miami Herald. For less-developed destinations, small travel agents who cater to immigrant communities in large cities often have the best deals. Beware: Bucket shop tickets are usually nonrefundable or rigged with stiff cancellation penalties, often as high as 50% to 75% of the ticket price, and some put you on charter airlines with questionable safety records. Try
Join-Us Travel (Tel. 800/324-5359; www.joinustravel.com), a San Francisco–based consolidator offering affordable connections to destinations throughout the region. STA Travel is a leader in student travel and offers good fares for travelers of all ages (see earlier in chapter). ELTExpress (Tel. 800/TRAV-800; www.elt express.com) started in Europe and has excellent fares worldwide, but particularly to that continent. It also has “local” websites in 12 countries. FlyCheap (Tel. 800/FLY-CHEAP; www.1800flycheap.com) is owned by package-holiday megalith MyTravel and so has especially good access to fares for sunny destinations. Air Tickets Direct (Tel. 800/778-3447; www.airticketsdirect.com) is based in Montreal and leverages the currently weak Canadian dollar for low fares; it’ll also book trips to places that U.S. travel agents won’t touch, such as Cuba.
• Join frequent-flier clubs. Accrue enough miles, and you’ll be rewarded with free flights and elite status. It’s free, and you’ll get the best choice of seats, faster response to phone inquiries, and prompter service if your luggage is stolen, your flight is canceled or delayed, or if you want to change your seat. You don’t need to fly to build frequent-flier miles—frequent-flier credit cards can provide thousands of miles for doing your everyday shopping.
• For many more tips about air travel, including a rundown of the major frequent-flier credit cards, pickup a copy of Frommer’s Fly Safe, Fly Smart (Wiley Publishing, Inc.).
Don’t Stow It—Ship It If ease of travel is your main concern and money is no object, you can ship your luggage with one of the growing number of luggage-service companies that pickup, track, and deliver your luggage (often through couriers such as Federal Express) with minimum hassle for you. Traveling luggage-free may be ultra-convenient, but it’s not cheap: One-way overnight shipping can cost from $100 to $200, depending on what you’re sending. Still, for some people, especially the elderly or the infirm, it’s a sensible solution to lugging heavy baggage. Specialists in door-to-door luggage delivery are Virtual Bellhop (www.virtualbellhop.com), Sky-Cap International (www.skycapinternational.com), and Luggage Express (www.usxpluggageexpress.com).
At press time, two major U.S. airlines were struggling in bankruptcy court, and most of the rest weren’t doing very well either. To protect yourself, buy your tickets with a credit card, as the Fair Credit Billing Act guarantees that you can get your money back from the credit card company if a travel supplier goes under (and if you request the refund within 60 days of the bankruptcy.) Travel insurance can also help, but make sure it covers against “carrier default” for your specific travel provider. And be aware that if a U.S. airline goes bust mid-trip, a 2001 federal law requires other carriers to take you to your destination (albeit on a space-available basis) for a fee of no more than $25, provided you rebook within 60 days of the cancellation.
• Your choice of airline and airplane will definitely affect your leg room. Among U.S. airlines, American Airlines has the best average seat pitch (the distance between a seat and the row in front of it). Find more details at www.seatguru.com, which has extensive details about almost every seat on six major U.S. airlines. For international airlines, research firm Skytrax has posted a list of average seat pitches at www.airlinequality.com.
• Emergency exit seats and bulkhead seats typically have the most legroom. Emergency exit seats are usually held back to be assigned the day of a flight (to ensure that the seat is filled by someone ablebodied); it’s worth getting to the ticket counter early to snag one of these spots for a long flight. Keep in mind that bulkheads are where airlines often put baby bassinets, so you may be sitting next to an infant.
• To have two seats for yourself, try for an aisle seat in a center section toward the back of coach. If you’re traveling with a companion, book an aisle and a window seat. Middle seats are usually booked last, so chances are good you’ll end up with three seats to yourselves. And in the event that a third passenger is assigned the middle seat, he or she will probably be more than happy to trade for a window or an aisle.
• Ask about entertainment options. Many airlines offer seatback video systems where you get to choose your movies or play video games—but only on some of their planes. (Boeing 777s are your best bet.)
• Ask about entertainment options. Many airlines offer seatback video systems where you get to choose your movies or play video games—but only on some of their planes. (Boeing 777s are your best bet.)
• To sleep, avoid the last row of any section or a row in front of an emergency exit, as these seats are the least likely to recline. Avoid seats near toilet areas, which are highly trafficked. You also may want to reserve a window seat so that you can rest your head and avoid being bumped in the aisle.
• Get up, walk around, and stretch every 60 to 90 minutes to keep your blood flowing. This helps avoid deep vein thrombosis, or “economy-class syndrome,” a rare and deadly condition that can be caused by sitting in cramped conditions for too long.
• Drink water before, during, and after your flight to combat the lack of humidity in airplane cabins—which can be drier than the Sahara. Bring a bottle of water on board. Avoid alcohol, which will dehydrate you.
• If you’re flying with kids, don’t forget to carry on toys, books, pacifiers, and chewing gum to help them relieve ear pressure buildup during ascent and descent. Let each child pack his or her own backpack with favorite toys.
Jetlag is a pitfall of traveling across time zones. If you’re flying north-south and you feel sluggish when you touch down, your symptoms will be caused by dehydration and the general stress of air travel. When you travel east to west or vice-versa, however, your body becomes thoroughly confused about what time it is, and everything from your digestion to your brain gets knocked for a loop. Traveling east, say, from Chicago to Paris, is more difficult on your internal clock than traveling west, say from Atlanta to Hawaii, as most peoples’ bodies find it more acceptable to stay up late than to fall asleep early. The flight from the U.S. or Europe to Thailand leaves most people quite drained so take care. Here are some tips for combating jet lag:
• Reset your watch to your destination time before you board the plane.
• Drink lots of water before, during, and after your flight. Avoid alcohol.
• Exercise and sleep well for a few days before your trip.
• If you have trouble sleeping on planes, fly eastward on morning flights.
• Daylight is the key to resetting your body clock. At the website for Outside In (www.bodyclock.com), you can get a customized plan of when to seek and avoid light.
• If you need help getting to sleep earlier than you usually would, doctors recommend taking either the hormone melatonin or the sleeping pill Ambien—but not together. Take 2 to 5 milligrams of melatonin about 2 hours before your planned bedtime.
Never pack film—developed or undeveloped—in checked bags, as the new, more powerful scanners in U.S. airports can fog film. The film you carry with you can be damaged by scanners as well. X-ray damage is cumulative; the faster the film, and the more times you put it through a scanner, the more likely the damage. Film under 800 ASA is usually safe for up to five scans. If you’re taking your film through additional scans, U.S. regulations permit you to demand hand inspections. In international airports, you’re at the mercy of airport officials. On international flights, store your film in transparent baggies, so you can remove it easily before you go through scanners. Keep in mind that airports are not the only places where your camera may be scanned: Highly trafficked attractions are X-raying visitors’ bags with increasing frequency.
Most photo supply stores sell protective pouches designed to block damaging X-rays. The pouches fit both film and loaded cameras. They should protect your film in checked baggage, but they also may raise alarms and result in a hand inspection. An organization called Film Safety for Traveling on Planes, FSTOP (Tel. 888/301-2665; www.f-stop.org), can provide additional tips for traveling with film and equipment. Carry-on scanners will not damage videotape in video cameras, but the magnetic fields emitted by the walk-through security gateways and handheld inspection wands will. Always place your loaded camcorder on the screening conveyor belt or have it hand-inspected. Be sure your batteries are charged, as you will probably be required to turn the device on to ensure that it’s what it appears to be.
There are many private buses linking Singapore and Malaysia with Hat Yai in southern Thailand. In Singapore, call the Singapore Tourism Board at tel 800/334-1335 (Singapore number), and in Malaysia call the Malaysia Tourism Board (Tel. 603/293-5188) for more information. From Lao, regular buses can carry you over the border from Vientiane. The number to call for Tourist Information in Vientiane is tel. 856-21/212-248.
Thailand is accessible via train from Singapore and peninsular Malaysia. Malaysia’s Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTM) begins in Singapore (Tel. 65/222-5165), stopping in Kuala Lumpur (Tel. 603/273-8000) and Butterworth (Penang) (Tel. 604/323-7962) before heading for Thailand, where it joins service with the State Railway of Thailand. Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Railway Station is centrally located on Krung Kassem Road (Tel. 02223-7010 or 1690). Taxis, tuktuks (motorized three-wheeled vehicles), and public buses are just outside the station.
Thailand is accessible via train from Singapore and peninsular Malaysia. Malaysia’s Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTM) begins in Singapore (Tel. 65/222-5165), stopping in Kuala Lumpur (Tel. 603/273-8000) and Butterworth (Penang) (Tel. 604/323-7962) before heading for Thailand, where it joins service with the State Railway of Thailand. Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Railway Station is centrally located on Krung Kassem Road (Tel. 02223-7010 or 1690). Taxis, tuktuks (motorized three-wheeled vehicles), and public buses are just outside the station.
The Eastern & Oriental Express(www.orient-express.com) operates a 2-night/3-day journey between Singapore and Bangkok that makes getting there almost better than being there. The romance of 1930s colonial travel is joined with modern luxury in six Pullman cars, seven State cars, a Presidential car, plus two restaurant cars, a bar car, saloon, and observation cars. Along the way, stops are made in Penang (Georgetown) and Kanchanaburi (River Kwai) for light sightseeing. Current fares are per person one-way $1,440 Pullman superior double; $2,130 State double; and $2,900 Presidential Suite. Certain times of the year promotions will include overnights at The Oriental Bangkok and The Oriental Singapore. Call tel. 800/524-2420 in the U.S., or 65/392-3500 in Singapore.
Sun Cruises is the biggest name in cruising for the region. Stopping in Singapore, Malacca, and Penang in Malaysia, and Phuket, their floating resort has six restaurants, four Jacuzzis, pool, fitness center, spa, deck games, and seven bars and lounges. For details contact Pacific Leisure (Thailand), 156/13 Phang Nga Rd., Phuket, 83000 (Tel. 07623-2511; fax 07623-2510; www.pacific-leisure.com).
Before you start your search for the lowest airfare, you may want to consider booking your flight as part of a travel package. Package tours are not the same thing as escorted tours. Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices—kind of like one-stop shopping. Packages are sold in bulk to tour operators—who resell them to the public at a cost that usually undercuts standard rates. One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves. Most major airlines offer air/land packages, including
American Airlines Vacations
(Tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (Tel. 800/221-6666; www.deltavacations.com), Continental Airlines Vacations (Tel. 800/301-3800; www.coolvacations.com), and United Vacations (Tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com). Several big online travel agencies—Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, Site59, and Lastminute.com—also do a brisk business in packages. If you’re unsure about the pedigree of a smaller packager, check with the Better Business Bureau in the city where the company is based, or go online at www.bbb.org. If a packager won’t tell you where it’s based, don’t fly with them. Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in the national travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer’s Budget Travel Magazine, Travel & Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveler. Package tours can vary by leaps and bounds. Some offer a better class of hotels than others. Some offer the same hotels for lower prices. Some offer flights on scheduled airlines, while others book charters. Some limit your choice of accommodations and travel days. You are often required to make a large payment up front. On the plus side, packages can save you money, offering group prices but allowing for independent travel. Some even let you to add on a few guided excursions or escorted day trips (also at prices lower than if you booked them yourself) without booking an entirely escorted tour. Before you invest in a package tour, get some answers. Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. You’ll also want to find out what type of room you get. If you need a certain type of room, ask for it; don’t take whatever is thrown your way. Request a nonsmoking room, a quiet room, a room with a view, or whatever you fancy. Finally, look for hidden expenses. Ask whether airport departure fees and taxes, for example, are included in the total cost.
Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.
Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.
• Absolute Asia Founded in 1989, Absolute Asia offers an array of innovative itineraries, specializing in individual or small group tours customized to your interests, with experienced local guides and excellent accommodations. Talk to them about tours that feature art, cuisine, religion, antiques, photography, wildlife study, archaeology, and soft adventure—they can plan a specialized trip to see just about anything you can dream up for any length of time. 180 Varick St., 16th Floor, New York, NY 10014; Tel. 800/736-8187; fax 212/627-4090; www.absoluteasia.com.
• Asia Transpacific Journeys
Coordinating tours to every corner of South and Southeast Asia and the Pacific, Asia Transpacific Journeys deals with small groups and custom programs that include luxury hotel accommodations. They have specific tours for Thailand and their flagship package, the 23-day Passage to Indochina tour, takes you through all of the countries in Indochina. Asia Transpacific tours are fun and promote cultural understanding, a model of sustainable tourism, and a highly recommended choice. 2995 Center Green Court, Boulder, CO 80301; Tel. 800/642-2742 or 303/443-6789; fax 303/443-7078; www.asiatranspacific.com.
• Diethelm The folks at this Swissbased tour company, with offices throughout the region (and a popular choice for European tour groups), are friendly and helpful. Diethelm has full tour programs and can help with any details for travelers in-country, can arrange car rental or vans for small groups, and offer discount options to all destinations. Kian Gwan Building II, 140/1 Wireless Rd., Bangkok 10330, Thailand; Tel. 662/255-9150; fax 662/256-0248; www.diethelm-travel.com.
• Intrepid This popular Australian operator is probably the best choice to get off the beaten path on a tour of Asia. Intrepid caters tours for the culturally discerning, those with humanitarian goals and adventure travelers on a budget looking for a group-oriented tour of off-the-map locations.
Their motto is their name, and with some of the best guides in Asia, these folks will take you to the back of beyond safely, in style, and with lots of laughs. Box 2781, Fitzroy, DC VIC 3065, 12 Spring St., Fitzroy, Victoria, Australia; Tel. 613/9473-2626, 877/488-1616 in the U.S.; fax 613/9419-4426; www.intrepidtravel.com. Many people derive a certain ease and security from escorted trips. Escorted tours—whether by bus, motor coach, train, or boat—let travelers sit back and enjoy their trip without having to spend lots of time behind the wheel. All the little details are taken care of; you know your costs up front; and there are few surprises. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle—you don’t have to sweat over the plotting and planning of a vacation schedule. Escorted tours are particularly convenient for people with limited mobility. On the downside, an escorted tour often requires a big deposit up front, and lodging and dining choices are predetermined. As part of a cloud of tourists, you’ll get little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure—plus they also often focus only on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on the lesser-known gems.
Before you invest in an escorted tour, ask about the cancellation policy: Is a deposit required? Can they cancel the trip if they don’t get enough people? Do you get a refund if they cancel? If you cancel? How late can you cancel if you are unable to go? When do you pay in full? Note: If you choose an escorted tour, think strongly about purchasing trip-cancellation insurance, especially if the tour operator asks you to pay up front. See the section on “Travel Insurance,” earlier in this chapter. You’ll also want to get a complete schedule of the trip to find out how much sightseeing is planned each day and whether enough time has been allotted for relaxing or wandering solo. The size of the group is also important to know up front. Generally, the smaller the group, the more flexible the itinerary, and the less time you’ll spend waiting for people to get on and off the bus. Find out the demographics of the group as well. What is the age range? What is the gender breakdown? Is this mostly a trip for couples or singles? Discuss what is included in the price. You may have to pay for transportation to and from the airport. A box lunch may be included in an excursion, but drinks might cost extra. Tips may not be included. Find out if you will be charged if you decide to opt out of certain activities or meals. Before you invest in a package tour, get some answers. Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up the hotels’ reviews in this or another Frommer’s guide and check their rates for your specific dates of travel online. You’ll also want to find out what type of room you get. If you need a certain type of room, ask for it; don’t take whatever is thrown your way. Request a nonsmoking room, a quiet room, a room with a view, or whatever you fancy.
Finally, if you plan to travel alone, you’ll need to know if a single supplement will be charged and if the company can match you up with a Room-mate.
While for some the ideal holiday is days on end spent rolling around on a beach sucking back juicy cocktails, others want to push themselves to the limit, seeking thrills and adventure. Amazing Thailand’s well-developed tourism industry offers lots of backcountry options. Routes have opened up nature’s wild side to those who would dare, and many operators have jockeyed into place providing adventure travel options that are professional, well planned, and safe for everyone, from beginners to experts. The following section will give you an overview of the many options, but for planning details refer to the specific destination. The first thing many people consider for an active vacation is scuba diving or snorkeling. Living coral reefs grace the waters of the Andaman Sea, off Thailand’s southwest coast, and the Gulf of Thailand. More than 80 species of coral have been discovered in the Gulf, while the deeper and more saline Andaman has more than 210. Marine life includes hundreds of species of fish, plus numerous varieties of crustaceans and sea turtles. With the aid of scuba gear, divers can get an up-close and personal view of this undersea universe. For those without certification, many reefs close to the surface are still vibrant. From Phuket you can organize long-term scuba trips on live-aboard boats or you can take a day trip that includes two or three dives. From Koh Phi Phi, Krabi, Koh Samui, Hua Hin, Chumphon, and Pattaya, many operators schedule frequent trips. All are staffed with PADI-certified dive masters, provide quality gear and decent boats, and are licensed by the Tourism Authority. Many offer scuba training and certification packages, and can have you ready to dive in 5 days. Pretty much every beach has independent operators or guesthouses that rent snorkels, masks, and fins for the day. A few boat operators take snorkelers to reefs off neighboring islands—especially at Koh Phi Phi, Krabi, Koh Samui, and Pattaya. Thailand’s mountainous jungle terrain in the north has become a haven for trekkers, particularly those who wish to visit remote villages inhabited by the tribal people who live there. While the average trek lasts 3 days and 2 nights, some like to go out into the wilds for up to 10 days or more. Trekking usually involves no more than 3 to 4 hours of straight walking on jungle paths. All tours provide local guides to accompany groups, and the guides will keep the pace steady but comfortable for all trekkers involved. Some trips break up the monotonous walking with treks on elephant-back, in four-wheel-drive Jeeps, or light rafting on flat bamboo rafts. Chiang Mai, “Chiang Mai”) has the most trekking firms, while Chiang Rai, Pai, and Mae Hong Son also have their share of trekking companies. Our best recommendation for trekking is Contact Travel (Tel. 05327-7178; www.activethailand.com), a reputable outfitter with custom trips starting from their home-base in Chiang Mai. Thai officials are taking steps to preserve the nature and wildlife of its many different ecological zones, from swamp jungles in the south, to mountain forests in the north, to underwater marine parks in the Gulf of Thailand and the Andaman Sea. In more than 80 national parks, the kingdom also tries to teach visitors about not only the local wildlife species in residence, but also the delicate balance of each habitat. Many parks have clearly displayed informational exhibits at their visitor centers, trails with bridges and catwalks, and markers explaining the important elements of the environment and its inhabitants. Others provide rudimentary bungalow accommodations or can rent tents and supplies for campers. For more complete information, get in touch with the Royal Forestry Department at tel. 02579-5734 or 02579-7223.
River rafting in rubber rafts and kayaks is also becoming increasingly popular in Thailand, with operators in Pai and Mae Sot, taking small groups down local rivers. Winding through dense jungles, past rock formations and local villages, these trips include camping and sometimes trekking. Rapids are rarely extreme but are big enough to be loads of fun, and safety measures are taken seriously. If you’re a true enthusiast, talk to Thai Adventure Rafting in Pai about accompanying a group in your own kayak or canoe. A few lucky folks know that Thailand is home to one of the top 10 climbing walls in the world. Rock climbing at Raillay beach in Krabi is attracting lovers of the sport, who come to have a go at these challenging cliffs. Views are breathtaking—truly amazing scenery out into the Andaman and surrounding islands. A few small outfits accept beginners for training or will organize climbs for more specialized experts, providing all equipment necessary.
Thailand’s domestic transport is accessible, efficient, and inexpensive. If your time is short, fly. But if you have the time to take in the countryside, travel by bus, train, or private car.
Bangkok’s Don Muang International Airport may not be as glitzy as its neighbors’ newer airports, but it works well—services and gates are easy to find, many airport staff speak English, there’s convenient transportation to town, and it’s relatively safe. Airports in other cities usually tend to have money-changing facilities, information counters, and waiting ground transportation. In the very small places, you’ll have to arrange airport pick-up either through your hotel or the airline. Most domestic flights are on Thai Airways, part of Thai Airways International, 6 Larn Luang Rd., Bangkok (Tel. 0 2535-2084), with Bangkok as its hub. Flights connect Bangkok and 27 domestic cities, including Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Mae Hong Son, Phitsanulok, Loei, Surat Thani, and Phuket. There are also connecting flights between many of these cities. Bangkok Airways, Queen Sirikit Convention Center, New Ratchadaphisek Road, Bangkok (Tel. 0 2229-3456), has a very convenient flight that links Phuket with Koh Samui directly. It also flies to Ranong, U Tapao (near Pattaya), Sukhothai, Chiang Mai, with international flights from Singapore and Phnom Penh. Air Andaman, 87 Nailert Bldg., 4th Floor, Unit 402a, Sukhumvit Rd. (Tel. 0 2251-4905) handles short domestic hops. Double check all flights before making arrangements as these routes change frequently. Check what’s on offer from Thailand’s latest budget carrier, Air Asia (Tel. 0 2515-9999 in Bangkok; www.airasia.com). They fly between Bangkok and Chiang Mai, Phuket, Hat Yai and Khon Kaen for super cheap. Note that for international departures a 500B ($12) airport tax is levied. For domestic flights, airport taxes range between 30B to 150B (75¢–$3.65) but are normally included with your ticket purchase.
Bangkok’s Hua Lampong Railway Station is a convenient, user-friendly facility: Clear signs point the way to public toilets, coin phones, the food court, and baggage check area. A Post & Telegraph Office, Information Counter, police box, ATMs and money-changing facilities, convenience shops, baggage check, and restaurants surround a large open seating area.
From this hub, the State Railway of Thailand provides regular service to destinations north as far as Chiang Mai, northeast to Udon Thani, east to Pattaya, and south to Thailand’s southern border, where it connects with Malaysia’s Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTM) with service to Penang (Butterworth), Kuala Lumpur, and Singapore. Complete schedules and fare information can be obtained at any railway station or by calling Hua Lampong Railway Station directly at tel. 02223-7010 or call their information hot line at tel. 1690.
There are a number of different trains, each running at a different speed and priced accordingly. The fastest is the Special Express, which is the best choice for long-haul, overnight travel. These trains cut travel time by as much as 60%, and have sleeper cars, which are a must for the really long trips. Rapid trains are the next best option. Prices vary for class, from air-conditioned sleeper cars in first class to air-conditioned and fan sleeper or seats in second on down to the straight-backed, hard seats in third class.
Warning: On trains, pay close attention to your possessions. Thievery is common on overnight trips.
Thailand has a very efficient and inexpensive bus system, highly recommended for budget travelers and short-haul trips. Buses are the cheapest transportation to the farthest and most remote destinations in the country. Options abound, but the major choices are public or private and air-conditioned or non-air-conditioned. Longer bus trips usually depart in the evenings to arrive at their destination early in the morning. Whenever you can, opt for the VIP buses, especially for overnight trips. Some have 36 seats; better ones have 24 seats. The extra cost is well worth the legroom. Also, stick to government buses operated from each city’s proper bus terminal. Many private companies sell VIP tickets for major routes but put you on a standard bus. Ideally, buses are best for short excursions; expect to pay a minimum of 50B ($1.25) for a one-way ticket. Longer-haul buses are an excellent value (usually less than $1 per hour of travel), but can be very slow.
Thailand has a very efficient and inexpensive bus system, highly recommended for budget travelers and short-haul trips. Buses are the cheapest transportation to the farthest and most remote destinations in the country. Options abound, but the major choices are public or private and air-conditioned or non-air-conditioned. Longer bus trips usually depart in the evenings to arrive at their destination early in the morning. Whenever you can, opt for the VIP buses, especially for overnight trips. Some have 36 seats; better ones have 24 seats. The extra cost is well worth the legroom. Also, stick to government buses operated from each city’s proper bus terminal. Many private companies sell VIP tickets for major routes but put you on a standard bus. Ideally, buses are best for short excursions; expect to pay a minimum of 50B ($1.25) for a one-way ticket. Longer-haul buses are an excellent value (usually less than $1 per hour of travel), but can be very slow.
Warning: When traveling by long-distance bus, pay close attention to your possessions. Thievery is common, particularly on overnight buses when valuables are left in overhead racks.
Renting a car is a snap in Thailand, although self-drive in Bangkok traffic is discouraged. One-way streets, construction projects, and traffic jams are frequent and frustrating. Outside the city, it’s a good option, though Thai drivers are quite reckless, and American drivers must reorient themselves to driving on the left side of the road. Among the many car-rental agencies, both Avis (Tel. 0 2255-5300) and Budget (Tel.0 2566-5067) each have convenient offices around the country. You can rent a car with or without a driver. All drivers are required to have an international driver’s license. At press time, self-drive rates started at 1,500B ($37) per day for a small Suzuki four-wheel-drive and much more for luxury vehicles. Local tour operators in larger destinations like Chiang Mai, Phuket, or Koh Samui will rent cars for considerably cheaper than the larger, more well-known agencies. Sometimes the savings are up to 50%. These companies also rarely require international driver’s licenses but will accept your local license from back home as proof you know how to drive. Always ask if you will still be covered by their insurance policy—if you are taken to court for an accident, you may be found guilty for not being properly licensed. Make sure you’re covered before you sign.
Gas stations are conveniently located along highways and in towns and cities. Esso, Shell, Caltex, and PTT all have competitive rates. Expect to pay about 400B ($9.75) each time you fill your tank.
The more expensive, private cars affiliated with hotels and travel agents post their rates, but you’ll have to negotiate with public sedan taxis, sometimes even metered taxis, and tuk-tuk (motorized three-wheel trishaw/pedicab) drivers. If you don’t know the correct fare, ask a shop owner, hotelier, or restaurateur what you should expect to pay for your destination and negotiate accordingly. Tuk-tuk rides start at 30B/75¢ for short hops; be sure to bargain hard with these guys, and don’t let ’em take you for a ride (in other words, shopping trips or to massage parlors). In most provincial areas and resort islands, small pickup trucks called songtao cruise the main streets offering group-ride taxi service at cheap, set fees. With taxis, tuk-tuks, or songtao, always remember to agree on your fare before engaging a driver. Tipping is not expected but gladly accepted.
Thailand has countless hotels, with the well-traveled areas in Bangkok, Phuket, Chiang Mai, Pattaya, and Koh Samui offering up the widest assortment. International chains like Sheraton, Marriott, Westin, Le Meridien, and Holiday Inn have some of the finest hotels and resorts in the country, while the Thai-owned and operated Dusit and Amari chains have numerous properties that can compete with the best. Five-star hotels and resorts spare no detail for the business or leisure traveler, providing designer toiletries, plush robes, in-room stereo systems, in-house videos, and many other creature comforts that will fill your life with luxury. Some of the best restaurants are operated by hotels, and many of the finer properties host a whole range of dining choices. With more facilities, better activity options and services, and well-trained staff, you’ll have the time of your life, but plan to spend more than 10,250B ($250) a night for a double room. Many hotels in this category have started quoting prices in U.S. dollars. Most hotels that fall into the “Expensive” category have all the bells and whistles, but feature less deluxe amenities; silk bathrobes, personal stereos, and in-house movies are gone, and room design and furnishings become less luxurious. However, most rooms are handsome and well maintained, and facilities tend to be good quality. Expect to pay around 5,000B ($122) per night. “Moderate” hotels and resorts start at about 2,000B ($49) and are often quite modern and a good value for the money. Most have swimming pools, good restaurants, toiletries in the room, satellite television with movie channels, in-room safes, and international direct dialing from your room.
In smaller cities and towns, this category is about the best you can do, but some of these moderately priced options can have facilities and rooms of surprising quality. And prices are discounted greatly, as little as 1,000B ($24) depending on the season. Thailand is heaven for the budget traveler and the many mom and pop guesthouses or budget hotels and hostels are often as much a part of the experience of travel in country as anything. If you go really inexpensive, expect to rough it. Cold-water showers, fan-cooled rooms, and dormitories are the norm. But sometimes you find inexpensive accommodations that stand out from the pack—quaint beachside bungalow villages, city hotels with good locations, or small guesthouses with knowledgeable and helpful staff.
Expensive and moderately priced hotels add a 10% service charge plus 7% government tax, also called value-added tax (VAT), with the exception of special offers that are mostly inclusive of these fees. And, finally, a note regarding our amenities listings, some of which are unique to Asian hotels. “Coffee/tea-making facilities” means you have complimentary instant tea and coffee and an electric kettle in your room. Where “satellite TV” is indicated, that means you’ll get channels like CNN, BBC, MTV, and possibly a movie channel or two, such as HBO or Cinemax.
The rack rate is the maximum rate that a hotel charges for a room. Hardly anybody pays this price, however. To lower the cost of your room:
• Ask about special rates or other discounts. Always ask whether a room less expensive than the first one quoted is available, or whether any special rates apply to you. You may qualify for corporate, student, military, senior, or other discounts. Mention membership in AAA, AARP, frequent-flier programs, or trade unions, which may entitle you to special deals as well. Find out the hotel policy on children—do kids stay free in the room or is there a special rate?
• Dial direct. When booking a room in a chain hotel, you’ll often get a better deal by calling the individual hotel’s reservation desk than at the chain’s main number.
• Book online. Many hotels offer Internet-only discounts, or supply rooms to Priceline, Hotwire, or Expedia at rates much lower than the ones you can get through the hotel itself.
• Remember the law of supply and demand. Resort hotels are most crowded and therefore most expensive on weekends, so discounts are usually available for midweek stays. Business hotels in downtown locations are busiest during the week, so you can expect big discounts over the weekend. Many hotels have high-season and low-season prices, and booking the day after high season ends can mean big discounts.
• Look into group or long-stay discounts. If you come as part of a large group, you should be able to negotiate a bargain rate, since the hotel can then guarantee occupancy in a number of rooms. Likewise, if you’re planning a long stay (at least 5 days), you might qualify for a discount. As a general rule, expect 1 night free after a 7-night stay.
• Avoid excess charges and hidden costs. When you book a room, ask whether the hotel charges for parking. Use your own cell-phone, pay phones, or prepaid phone cards instead of dialing direct from hotel phones, which usually have exorbitant rates. And don’t be tempted by the room’s mini-bar offerings: Most hotels charge through the nose for water, soda, and snacks. Finally, ask about local taxes and service charges, which can increase the cost of a room by 15% or more. If a hotel insists upon tacking on a surprise “energy surcharge” that wasn’t mentioned at check-in or a “resort fee” for amenities you didn’t use, you can often make a case for getting it removed.
• Consider the pros and cons of allinclusive resorts and hotels. The term “all-inclusive” means different things at different hotels. Many all-inclusive hotels will include three meals daily, sports equipment, spa entry, and other amenities; others may include all or most drinks. In general, you’ll save money going the “allinclusive” way—as long as you use the facilities provided. The down side is that your choices are limited so you’re stuck eating and playing in one place for the duration of your vacation.
• Book an efficiency. A room with a kitchenette allows you to shop for groceries and cook your own meals. This is a big money saver, especially for families on long stays.
Somebody has to get the best room in the house. It might as well be you. You can start by joining the hotel’s frequent-guest program, which may make you eligible for upgrades. A hotel-branded credit card usually gives its owner “silver” or “gold” status in frequent-guest programs for free. Always ask about a corner room. They’re often larger and quieter, with more windows and light, and they often cost the same as standard rooms. When you make your reservation, ask if the hotel is renovating; if it is, request a room away from the construction. Ask about nonsmoking rooms, rooms with views, rooms with twin, queen-, or king-size beds. If you’re a light sleeper, request a quiet room away from vending machines, elevators, restaurants, bars, and discos. Ask for one of the rooms that have been most recently renovated or redecorated. If you aren’t happy with your room when you arrive, say so. If another room is available, most lodgings will be willing to accommodate you.
In resort areas, particularly in warm climates, ask the following questions before you book a room:
• What’s the view like? Cost-conscious travelers may be willing to pay less for a back room facing the parking lot, especially if they don’t plan to spend much time in their room.
• Does the room have air-conditioning or ceiling fans? Do the windows open? If they do, and the nighttime entertainment takes place alfresco, you may want to find out when show time is over.
• What’s included in the price? Your room may be moderately priced, but if you’re charged for beach chairs, towels, sports equipment, and other amenities, you could end up spending more than you bargained for.
• How far is the room from the beach and other amenities? If it’s far, is there transportation to and from the beach?
Dial E for Easy
For quick directions on how to call Thailand, see the “Telephone” listing in the “Fast Facts” section at the end of this chapter or check out the “Telephone Tips” on the inside front cover of the book.
One of the greatest joys of visiting Thailand is the plethora of dining options in any area. From high-class hotel restaurants and power-lunch points, to street-side noodle stands, you’ll find it all, and in this volume we list the whole range. Storefront restaurants and street vendors, apart from those in a specified night market area, are open early morning to late at night. Restaurants catering to tourists also open from morning until late. You’re not expected to tip at a Thai restaurant, but rounding up the bill or leaving 20B (50¢) on top of most checks is acceptable. A 15% to 20% tip will shock and awe in smaller restaurants, but are accepted (sometimes even tacked-on) at finedining outlets.
The larger cities and towns play host to a whole range of Western and international restaurants, Bangkok in particular covers all the bases, but going for authentic Thai is usually a far better option than the bland, faux-Western dishes served at many budget traveler restaurants (the same place that serves soggy hamburgers on sweet rolls probably makes a great Pad Thai). One-dish meals like noodle soup or fried-rice or noodles are popular for solo travelers, but Thai meals are best when shared family style. There are many regional variations, but the most notable are the barbecue, sticky-rice and spicy papaya salads in Isan (the northeast) and the fiery coconut curries of the south; always ask about regional specials. Most family meals consist of a meat or fish dish (often a whole fish), fried or steamed vegetables, a curry, stir-fried dishes of meat and vegetables, and a soup, such as fiery Tom Yam. Meals are lengthy and boisterous affairs, and food is picked-at slowly. Drink flows freely in Thailand, and local beer, as well as rice whiskey, accompany most meals. Thais are very practical about table manners. If something is best eaten with the hands, then feel free. If there are seeds or bones to spit out, you just go ahead and spit ’em out. Single-serve noodle soups are usually eaten with chopsticks and a Chinese spoon, but you won’t be bothering anyone to ask for a fork. Rice dishes are eaten with a spoon and fork, the spoon commonly held in the right hand, and the fork in the left is used only to load the spoon for delivery; follow locals, but do whatever you’re comfortable with.
Most visitors land in Bangkok and spend a few days getting acclimated and touring the many sites of the Thai capital. Bangkok also makes a good hub for trips around Thailand and the region. Itineraries will be limited only by the amount of time you have, and many find that travel in Thailand and the region of Southeast Asia is best done on the slow. Most short-term visitors head right for the beaches, but below are a few options for touring. Check the “Regions in Brief ” section at the beginning of this chapter for more information on where to go. Hit Chiang Mai or Bangkok markets on the last days of any trip to stock-up on souvenirs for the folks back home.
Starting in Bangkok, trace the legacy of the ancient capitals. First, north to Ayuthaya, capital until the late 18th century, then via tiny Lop Buri (best by train) to Phitsanulok then Sukhothai and Sri Satchanalai, the very origins of the Kingdom of Thailand. Many carry on to the north and visit the vestiges of the Lanna Kingdom, a culture that developed parallel with ancient Thailand and centered around now-booming Chiang Mai. The tour is a short-course in the evolution of Thai architecture and many get hooked and make a trip to the archaeological sites in Isan, the Northeast, like Phimai or even to the ancient Khmer ruins of Angkok Wat in Cambodia.
“ADVENTURE FIRST, BEACH SECOND” TOUR
Many visitors like to “earn” their toes-in-the-sand lounging time. Here’s a good way: Starting from Bangkok, hit the far north using Chiang Mai as a hub for rugged trips into the back of beyond; rent a motorbike and get muddy, take a trek, go rafting and then, tired and bedraggled, hop a flight to one of the beach destinations in the south, Phuket or Koh Samui for example, and put your feet up, spin some tall tales, and catch-up with that journal writing or get into that novel you’ve been toting around. This can be anything from a 2-week to a 4-month proposition. Routes through other parts of the region are as varied as folks who travel them. Some start in Singapore or Indonesia and work their way up through Thailand and Indochina (even beyond to China via Laos or Vietnam). Another popular route is a circuit including Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia.
Anna and the King, the original work of Anna Leowens, the late 19th century governess for the children of King Rama IV, Thailand’s most progressive leader who, with the help of Anna’s feisty insight, brought the kingdom into this century. Don’t miss the film of the same name starring Jodie Foster (though due to gross historical inaccuracies the film was banned from public release in Thailand). The Beach, by Alex Garland, and the popular film featuring Leonardo DeCaprio, tells the story of young backpackers in search of the perfect hideaway. Following a map given them by a man on the edge, the searchers swim to a remote island (not far from Samui) and join a community of dropouts living in bliss on a beautiful, secluded beach, the sea providing the food and nearby fields full of all the ganja they can smoke. The story has become a popular model for the modern Utopia, and travelers in Thailand seem to enjoy the idea of a heaven on earth in the Thai south (and most find that today’s overdeveloped beachfronts come up short). I like the way Khao San Road, the neon-lit backpacker ghetto of Bangkok, is depicted as mysterious and exotic—quite the contrary. For another Utopia, check-out Emily Barr’s Backpacker, another model
Anna and the King, the original work of Anna Leowens, the late 19th century governess for the children of King Rama IV, Thailand’s most progressive leader who, with the help of Anna’s feisty insight, brought the kingdom into this century. Don’t miss the film of the same name starring Jodie Foster (though due to gross historical inaccuracies the film was banned from public release in Thailand). The Beach, by Alex Garland, and the popular film featuring Leonardo DeCaprio, tells the story of young backpackers in search of the perfect hideaway. Following a map given them by a man on the edge, the searchers swim to a remote island (not far from Samui) and join a community of dropouts living in bliss on a beautiful, secluded beach, the sea providing the food and nearby fields full of all the ganja they can smoke. The story has become a popular model for the modern Utopia, and travelers in Thailand seem to enjoy the idea of a heaven on earth in the Thai south (and most find that today’s overdeveloped beachfronts come up short). I like the way Khao San Road, the neon-lit backpacker ghetto of Bangkok, is depicted as mysterious and exotic—quite the contrary. For another Utopia, check-out Emily Barr’s Backpacker, another model
American Express There is no specific agent that handles American Express services in Thailand anymore, but they have an American Express office at 388 Pahonyothin Rd. in Bangkok. You can reach the office at tel. 02273-5296 during business hours (Mon–Fri 8:30am–4:30pm) or call their customer service hot line (Tel. 02273-5544) with any problems or questions.
ATM Networks Most major banks throughout the country have automated teller machines. In general, you can get cash with your debit card at any Bangkok Bank, Thai Farmers Bank, Siam Commercial Bank, or Bank of Ayudhya—provided your card is hooked into the MasterCard/Cirrus or Visa/PLUS network. See the “Money” section, earlier in this chapter.
Business Hours Government offices (including branch post offices) are open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4:30pm, with a lunch break between noon and 1pm. Businesses are generally open 8am to 5pm. Shops often for idealistic travel and soul-searching in Thailand.
I really like Tiziano Terzai’s book, A Fortune-Teller Told Me. Though not about Thailand exclusively, Terzai offers a well-crafted portrait of the interlocking cultures of Asia, telling of how China’s diaspora affects the region and painstakingly relating the interesting minutia of Southeast Asian culture in an autobiography of his search for personal destiny. For help in understanding what the heck is going on around you in Thailand, pick up a copy of Culture Shock! Thailand by Robert and Nanthapa Cooper. Most bookstores in the West and in Thailand sell a host of useful phrase-books and Thai/English dictionaries. For more comprehensive study of the basics of Thai writing and speaking, pickup a copy of Thailand for Beginners by Benjawan Becker.
Asia Books, a Thai bookseller with outlets throughout the country, is also a small press publisher and offers some interesting and informative writing about Thailand and Asia in general. Stop by any of their stores in Bangkok or the larger tourist centers, and look for their titles in small kiosks at beachside convenience stores in resort towns. Carol Hollinger’s Mai Pen Rai Means Nevermind is a personal history of time spent in the kingdom some thirty years ago, but the cultural insights are quite current. Patpong Sisters by Cleo Odzer and Sex Slaves by Louise Brown are both interesting exposés of the Thai sex industry. These are but a few of the many published by Asia Books.
The full list would be long, but below are just a few of the many books about Buddhism and the Thai Theravadan traditions: For the word straight from the horses mouth, try any of the writing by Ajahn Buddhadassa, a widely published Thai monk and founder of Wat Suan Mohk, an international meditation center in the south of Thailand. Buddhadasa’s Handbook for Mankind and The ABCs of Buddhism are good introductions to meditation practice. Also look for writing by Jack Kornfield, an American who writes about meditation practices in works like A Path With Heart. Phra Peter Parrapadipo’s Phra Farang, literally “the foreign monk,” tells the story of an Englishman turned Thai Buddhist monk. A unique read.
American Express There is no specific agent that handles American Express services in Thailand anymore, but they have an American Express office at 388 Pahonyothin Rd. in Bangkok. You can reach the office at te. 02273-5296 during business hours (Mon–Fri 8:30am–4:30pm) or call their customer service hot line (Tel. 0 2273-5544) with any problems or questions.
ATM Networks Most major banks throughout the country have automated teller machines. In general, you can get cash with your debit card at any Bangkok Bank, Thai Farmers Bank, Siam Commercial Bank, or Bank of Ayudhya—provided your card is hooked into the MasterCard/Cirrus or Visa/PLUS network. See the “Money” section, earlier in this chapter.
Business Hours Government offices (including branch post offices) are open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4:30pm, with a lunch break between noon and 1pm. Businesses are generally open 8am to 5pm. Shops often tay open from 8am until 7pm or later, 7 days a week. Department stores are generally open 10am to 7pm.
Car Rentals See “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.
Currency See “Money,” earlier in this chapter.
Driving Rules See “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.
Drugstores Throughout the country, there are excellent drugstores stocked with many brand-name medications and toiletries, plus less expensive local brands. Pharmacists often speak some English, and a surprising number of drugs that require a prescription elsewhere can be dispensed at their discretion.
Electricity All outlets—except in some luxury hotels—are 220 volts AC (50 cycles). Outlets have two flat-pronged or round-pronged holes, so you may need an adapter. If you use a 110-volt hair dryer, electric shaver, or battery charger for a computer, bring a transformer and adapter.
Embassies & Consulates While most countries have consular representation in Bangkok, the United States, Australia, Canada, and the United Kingdom also have consulates in Chiang Mai. See chapters 3, “Introducing Bangkok,” and 11, “Chiang Mai,” for details. Most embassies have 24-hour emergency services. If you are seriously injured or ill, do not hesitate to call your embassy for assistance.
Emergencies Throughout the country, the emergency number you should use is tel. 1699 or tel. 1155 for the Tourist Police. Don’t expect many English speakers at normal police posts outside the major tourist areas. (Ambulances must be summoned from hospitals rather than through a central service.) You should also contact your embassy or consulate, the Tourist Police, or the local Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT) office.
Etiquette and Customs Practicing cultural sensitivity is very important in Thailand and even longtime visitors are bound to come up against new and different faux pas to trip them up. Pay close attention to what Thai people do, especially in temples and at the table, and you’ll be fine.
Appropriate Attire: You wouldn’t know it by the current fashion trends in urban Bangkok, where tiny miniskirts and bare midriffs are common, but Thai people are quite modest. Longer shorts and even sleeveless tops are permissible for foreigners of both sexes, but short-shorts or miniskirts are not really appropriate. You’ll see Thai men wandering about without shirts, and while many foreign visitors take this as a cue to strip down and beat the heat, it is not acceptable anywhere but the beach—foreigners, strangely, are held to a different set of expectations.
Gestures: The traditional Thai greeting is called the wai. To perform this, place your hands together at chest or chin level as if you are praying, bow your head to your hands, and bow your upper body slightly. The wai is also used to say thank you and goodbye. It is good to return the greeting if you’re given it, but when entering hotels and restaurants, where everyone is strictly business; visitors are not expected to return the gesture. In a business setting, a handshake is more appropriate. From traditions as old as the Buddha in Thailand, the head is considered the most sacred part of the body, and the feet are the lowliest; therefore, do not casually touch another person’s head or even nonchalantly tousle the hair of a child, and don’t sit with your legs crossed or otherwise point your feet at someone and particularly not toward Buddhist images. If you are seated on the floor, men may sit with the legs crossed, but women should tuck them to one side. In crowded places, on buses and trains for example, it is common to make room (even when you think there is none) for others to pass rather than inviting them to go over and thus expose the bottoms of their feet toward you. As in most cultures, pointing with the finger is also considered rude; Thais use a palms-up hand gesture when signifying direction or indicating a person or thing.
Beckoning is done with what looks to Westerners like a wave goodbye. Men and women should avoid public displays of affection, though these rules are changing with the generations, and it is more and more common to see young couples snuggling. Women should never try to shake hands with or even hand something directly to a monk, and it is common that bus or train seating arrangements change when a monk gets on-board so that monks are separate from women. Similar rules apply to Muslim temples where women should remember to wear appropriate modest attire.
Avoiding Offense: Funny, but the best way to avoid offending anyone in Thailand is not to show your offense and express anger, a “face-losing” proposition for you and very embarrassing for the Thai people around you. Most Thai people are Buddhist, and a person showing violence or ill temper is regarded with surprise and disapproval. A gentle approach will take you farther, and patient persistence, and a smile will achieve more, especially when haggling, than an argument. It is important to haggle, of course, but just one or two go-rounds are usually enough, and “no” means no. If you have a disagreement of any kind, keep your cool.
It’s also important to remember the concept of “Thai Time” and that appointments are loosely kept and offense at someone’s tardiness is met with confusion. If you make an appointment with someone who doesn’t deal with many other international visitors, be ready to wait (or come late yourself). A common greeting in Thailand is to ask, “Have you eaten yet?” (Kin kao laew reu yang?) telling of the importance, not unlike many cultures, of offering and accepting hospitality whenever possible. Western visitors are often asked to join impromptu feasts. Hospitality is one thing, but don’t feel pressed into drinking rice wine (I’ve had offers at breakfast); if something looks unsavory or really turns you off, it is okay to politely decline an offer (but just a taste will make your host happy). Be sensitive, particularly in Buddhist temples, Muslim mosques and among hilltribe people in the far north, and ask before taking photographs. Hilltribe spirit gates in particular should not be photographed at all.
Holidays See “Calendar of Events,” earlier in this chapter.
Hot lines There are regular meetings of Alcoholics Anonymous (AA) in Bangkok and around Thailand. Check their regional website at www.aathailand.org or call the AA hot line at tel. 02231-8300.
Information See “Visitor Information,” earlier in this page.
Internet Access You’ll find Internet cafes everywhere in Thailand. See the Fast Facts sections in specific destination chapters for details.
Language Central (often called Bangkok) Thai is the official language. English is spoken in the major cities at most hotels, restaurants, and shops, and is the second language of the professional class, as well as the international business language.
Liquor Laws The official drinking age in Thailand is 18, but laws are loosely followed—you can buy alcohol in most areas any time day or night, with exceptions for certain Buddhist holidays. All restaurants, bars and nightclubs sell booze, and you can pickup take-away-size packages from just about anywhere. Nightlife spots now close at 2am at the latest (and the rule is being policed vigorously).
Lost and Found Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa’s U.S. emergency number is tel. 800/847-2911 or 410/581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler’s check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/307-7309 or 636/722-7111. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at tel. 800/555-1212. To report a lost or stolen credit card in Thailand, call these service lines: American Express (Tel. 02273-5544); Diners Club (Tel. 02238-3660); Master-Card (Tel. 02260-8572); and Visa (Tel. 02256-7326).
If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (Tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com). Identity theft or fraud are potential complications of losing your wallet, especially if you’ve lost your driver’s license along with your cash and credit cards. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately; placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity. The three major U.S. credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (Tel. 800/766-0008; www.equifax.com), Experian (Tel. 888/397-3742; www.experian.com), and TransUnion (Tel. 800/680-7289; www.transunion.com). Finally, if you’ve lost all forms of photo ID call your airline and explain the situation; they might allow you to board the plane if you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report you’ve filed.
Mail You can use poste restante as an address anywhere in the country. For those unfamiliar with this service, it is comparable to General Delivery in the United States, whereby you can receive mail addressed to you, care of Poste Restante, GPO, Name of City, and the mail is held for you at the post office or GPO until you pick it up. You need either a valid passport or ID card, must sign a receipt, and pay 1B (2¢) per letter received. Hours of operation are the same as the post office. Airmail postcards to the United States cost 12B to 15B (30¢–35¢), depending on the size of the card; first-class letters cost 19B (45¢) per 5 grams (rates to Europe are about the same). Airmail delivery usually takes 7 days. Air parcel post costs 606B ($14) per kilogram. Surface or sea parcel post costs 215B ($4.90) for 1 kilogram (3 or 4 months for delivery). International Express Mail (EMS) costs 440B ($10) from 1 to 250 grams, with delivery guaranteed within 4 days. See individual chapters for local post offices and their hours. Shipping by air freight is expensive. Two major international delivery services have their main dispatching offices in Bangkok, though they deliver throughout the country; these are DHL Thailand, Grand Amarin Tower Building, Phetchaburi Road (Tel. 0 2207-0600), and Federal Express, at Rama IV Road (Tel. 0 2367-3222). UPS Parcel Delivery Service, with a main branch in Bangkok at 16/1 Soi 44/1 Sukhumvit Road (Tel. 0 2712-3300), also has branches elsewhere in Thailand. Many businesses will also package and mail merchandise for a reasonable price.
Maps The TAT gives out regional and city maps at their information offices, and there are a number of good privately produced maps, usually free, available at most hotels and many businesses.
Newspapers and Magazines The major domestic English-language dailies are the Bangkok Post and The Nation, distributed in the morning in the capital and later in the day around the country. They cover the domestic political scene, as well as international news from AP, UPI, and Reuters wire services, and cost 20B (45¢). Both the Asian Wall Street Journal and International Herald Tribune are available Monday to Friday on their day of publication in Bangkok (in the provinces a day or two later). Time, Newsweek, the Economist, Asiaweek, and the Far Eastern Economic Review are sold at newsstands in the international hotels, as well as in bookstores in all the major cities.
Passports For Residents of the United States: Whether you’re applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. For general information, call the National Passport Agency (Tel. 202/647-0518). To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center (Tel. 900/225-5674); the fee is 55¢ per minute for automated information and $1.50 per minute for operator-assisted calls.
For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (Tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pickup an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.
For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (Tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a €12 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (Tel. 0 21/272-525) or at most main post offices.
For Residents of Australia: You can pickup an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.
For Residents of New Zealand: You can pickup a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.
Police The Tourist Police (Te. 1699 or 1155), with offices in every city, speak English (and other foreign languages) and are open 24 hours. You should call them in an emergency rather than the regular police because there is no guarantee that the regular police operator will speak English.
Restrooms The better restaurants and hotels will have Western toilets. Shops and budget hotels will have an Asian toilet, aka “squatty potty,” a hole in the ground with foot pads on either side. Near the toilet is a water bucket or sink with a small ladle. The water is for flushing and cleaning the toilet. Don’t count on these places having toilet paper. Some shopping malls have dispensers outside the restroom—2B (5¢) for some paper. Dispose of it in the wastebasket provided, as it will clog up rudimentary sewage systems.
Safety Anonymous violent crime in Thailand is rare; however petty crime such as purse snatching or pick-pocketing is common. Overland travelers should take care on overnight buses and trains for small-time thieves. In remote parts of the country and near the Burmese and Lao borders, local bandits or rebel groups have been known to rob travelers. Beware of credit card scams; carry a minimum of cards, don’t allow them out of your sight, and keep all receipts. Never leave your cards with others for safekeeping (such as during a trek). If you don’t want to carry them, put them in a hotel safe. Don’t carry unnecessary valuables, and keep those you do carry in your hotel’s safe. Pay particular attention to your things, especially purses and wallets, on public transportation.
A special warning: Be wary of strangers who offer to guide you (particularly in Bangkok), take you to any shop (especially jewelry shops), or buy you food or drink. This is most likely to occur near a tourist sight. Be warned that this kind of forward behavior is simply not normal for the average Thai. There are rare exceptions, but most likely these new “friends” will try to swindle you in some way. This often takes the form of trying to persuade you to buy “high quality” jewelry or gems (usually worthless) at “bargain” prices. Also, beware of anyone inviting you to his or her home, then offering to show you a famous Thai card game or engage you in any sort of gambling. You will lose. If you are approached about such schemes, call the Tourist Police immediately. For those who contemplate bringing a prostitute to their hotel room, be advised of the danger of food or drink laced with sleeping potions. There are many incidents with victims waking up 2 days later to find their valuables gone.
Smoking Thailand has just recently imposed a ban on smoking in restaurants and it looks like it is going to stick. Quite surprising really. If the restaurant is attached to a bar though, there are both smoking and nonsmoking sections.
Taxes & Service Charges Hotels charge a 7% government value-added tax (VAT) and typically add a 10% service charge; hotel restaurants add 8.25% government tax. Smaller hotels quote the price inclusive of these charges.
Telephones Major hotels in Thailand feature convenient international direct-dial (IDD), long-distance service, and in-house fax transmission. Hotels charge a surcharge on local and long-distance calls, which can add up to 50% in some cases. Credit card or collect calls are a much better value, but most hotels also add a hefty service charge for them to your bill.
Most major post offices have special offices or booths for overseas calls, as well as fax and telex service, usually open 7am to 11pm. There are Overseas Telegraph and Telephone offices (also called OCO or Overseas Call Office) open 24 hours throughout the country for long-distance international calls and telex and fax service. In addition, several guesthouses and travel agents in tourist areas offer long-distance calling on their private line or using very affordable net-to-phone connections of varying quality. Local calls can be made from any red or blue public pay telephone. Calls cost 1B (5¢) for 3 minutes, with additional 1B (5¢) coins needed after hearing multiple beeps on the line. Blue public phones are for long-distance calls within Thailand. Card phones can be found in most airports, in many public buildings, and in larger shopping centers. Cards can be purchased in several denominations at Telephone Organization of Thailand (TOT) offices or in any convenience store. Yellow TOT cards are sold in denominations of 300B and 500B ($7.30 and $12) and are specific for domestic or international phones that are clearly marked as such. Also Hatari PhoneNet offers prepaid cards where you access an account via a toll-free number (the best deal going). All phone cards are available at convenience stores everywhere.
To call Thailand: If you’re calling Thailand from the United States:
1. Dial the international access code: 011
2. Dial the country code 66
3. And dial the number. So the whole number you’d dial for Bangkok would be 011-66-2-000-0000.
Important note: When making domestic calls to Thailand, be sure to omit the “0” that appears before all phone numbers in this guide (thus you will only dial 8 digits after the “66” country code).
To make international calls: To make international calls from Thailand, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800. For directory assistance: Dial tel. 1133.
Time Zone Bangkok and all of Thailand are 7 hours ahead of GMT (Greenwich Mean Time). During winter months, this means that Bangkok is exactly 7 hours ahead of London, 12 hours ahead of New York, 15 hours ahead of Los Angeles. Daylight savings time will add 1 hour to these figures.
Tipping If no service charge is added to your check in a fine dining establishment, a 10% to 15% tip is appropriate. In local shops, a small tip of 10B (25¢) or so is common. Airport or hotel porters expect tips, but just 20B to 50B (50¢–$1.25) is acceptable. Feel free to reward good service wherever you find it. Tipping taxi drivers is not expected but accepted. Carry small bills, as many cab drivers either don’t have change or won’t admit having any in the hope of getting a tip.
Useful Phone Numbers U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hr.); U.S. Passport Agency tel. 202/647-0518; U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler’s Hotline: Tel. 404/332-4559. Water Don’t drink the tap water, even in the major hotels. Most hotels provide bottled water in or near the minibar or in the bathroom; use it for brushing your teeth as well as drinking. Most restaurants serve bottled or boiled water and ice made from boiled water, but always ask to be sure.
