Southern Peninsula:
The West Coast and Islands
The island of Phuket was one of the earliest tourist developments in the kingdom and from humble origins has grown into a top international resort area: the best choice for comfort and services on the West Coast. Phuket may be the largest and best known, but is but one of many in the brilliant blue Andaman Sea; rocky islets, atolls, and leafy jungle coastline play host to a roster of island resorts and getaways. It is a great area to island hop by bus and ferry connections and there are opportunities for snorkeling, trekking and laid-back luxury in every quarter. Officially part of Krabi Province but often visited from Phuket, the island of Koh Phi Phi follows Phuket’s development model though on a smaller scale. Phi Phi is a more remote destination whose small, overdeveloped main beach area has a few comfortable resorts and a festive, budget tourist appeal (with a few new resort options scattered along the coast) and good snorkeling trips.
The province of Krabi encompasses all the land east of Phuket, including Koh Phi Phi and Koh Lanta, but “Krabi” typically refers to the small port town and nearby beaches of the Krabi Resort Area and Ao Nang Beach. In places like Raillay beach, you’ll find dynamic stone-tower landscapes (famous for rock climbing), great beaches and a range of resorts. It’s a popular alternative to busy Phuket.
 |
| Map of the West Coast and Islands |
The monsoon winds strike from about May through October; during the period from late June through August, the “promotional season”, many hotels and other establishments offer discounts up to 50%. While the monsoon does bring rains, they rarely last all day and the weather can even be completely clear for long stretches. One constant of the monsoon, however, is rough seas. Even swimming becomes dangerous with heavy surf and a strong undertow. Islands in the eastern Gulf of Thailand, Koh Samui, Koh Pha Ngan and Koh Tao, are more sheltered from the monsoon weather, so are a better bet, but the big off-season discounts at the more luxury properties in places like Phuket are worth considering.
 |
| Map of Phuket and Koh Phi Phi |
At its best, this island in the Andaman Sea is idyllic: It has long sandy beaches (some with dunes), warm water, excellent snorkeling and scuba diving off Koh Similan, ideal windsurfing conditions, mountains, fine resorts and some of the best seafood in all of Thailand. At its worst, it is overdeveloped, overrun with tour groups and areas like busy Patong’s pulsing commercial strip and raucous nightlife are a bit too much for those in search of beachside tranquillity.
Over the years, the Thai government has granted economic incentives to encourage developers to shape the island into an international first-class resort. Hotels—some of them enormous—line every beach. As groups pour in from Singapore, Hong Kong, and Europe, backpackers head off to nearby Koh Phi Phi, or islands on the eastern Gulf like Samui and Pha Ngan.
But many of the resorts are attractive and elegant and designed to give you the illusion of tropical solitude in busier areas. It’s nearly impossible to find a totally secluded beach, but there are a number of very attractive and comfortable facilities with a high level of service—not a bad trade-off for those in search of all the luxuries. If on a family holiday, Phuket is a good choice.
 |
| Map of Phuket Island |
The name “Phuket” is derived from the Malay “Bukit,” meaning hill, and hills dominate much of the islands interior. There are still some rubber plantations and a few open-pit mining operations going on. Going by rented car or taking a fun but touristy “safari” is a good way to get into the jungle or up the hills from which you’ll have great views of the beaches below and the many surrounding islands and islets. Most folks come for the beaches though, and Phuket’s are indeed some of the best in Thailand. Take your shoes off, find a hammock, and relax.
BY PLANE Thai Airways (Tel. 0 2356-1111 domestic reservations in Bangkok) flies more 13 times daily from Bangkok from 7am to 9:30pm (trip time: 1 hr. 20 min.); and a daily flight from Hat Yai (trip time: 45 min.). In Hat Yai, its office is at 190/6 Niphat Uthit Rd. (Tel. 0 7423-3433). Thai Airways’ office in Phuket is at 78 Ranong Rd. (Tel. 0 7621-1195 domestic or 07621-2499 international).
Bangkok Airways (Tel. 0 2270-6699 in Bangkok or 0 77601-300 on Koh Samui) connects Phuket with Koh Samui at least two times daily. The Bangkok Airways office in Phuket is at 158/2–3 Yaowarat Rd., Phuket Town (Tel. 0 7622-5033-5, or 07632-7114 at Phuket Airport).
Phuket Airlines (Tel. 0 2535-6382) also has daily flights (leaving in the morning returning in evening). Thailands newest budget airline, Air Asia (www.airasia.com; Tel. 0 2515-9999), flies between Bangkok and Phuket for about the same price as the train.
Thai Airways (Tel. 0 2720-3434) connects Phuket with international flights to and from Frankfurt, Hong Kong, Perth, Singapore, and Tokyo. Silk Air (Tel. 0 2236-5301-3, 0 2236-0440 in Bangkok) has daily connections with Singapore. The attractive, modern Phuket International Airport (Tel. 0 7732-7230 information) is located in the north of the island, about 40 minutes’ drive from town or from Patong Beach. There are banks, money-changing facilities, car-rental agents (see “Getting Around,” below), and a post office. The Phuket Tourist Business Association booth can help you make hotel arrangements if you haven’t booked a room.
Many resorts will pick you up at the airport upon request for a fee, usually steep, though some include this with your booking. The airport limousine counter, operated by Tour Royale (Tel. 0 7634-1214), offers many options for getting to your hotel from the airport. The cheapest way is the minibus, which operates every hour on the hour from 9am to 11pm daily. Stopping between Patong, Kata, Karon, and Phuket Town, prices run from 80B to 180B ($1.95–$4.40), depending on how far you’re going (180B/$4.40 gets you as far south as Kata Beach). Taxi service from the airport, also arranged at the limousine counter, will cost from between 400B ($9.75) to Phuket Town and 590B ($14) to Kata beach. There are many VIP options as well.
BY BUS Three air-conditioned 24-seat VIP buses leave daily from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 2422-4444), best as an overnight, and cost from 755B($18). Regular air-conditioned buses cost 486B ($12). Standard buses make frequent connections to Surat Thani and nearby towns on the mainland (to Surat is 6 hr. and 105B/$2.50). The intercity bus terminal is at the City Park Complex on Phangnga Road (Tel. 0 7621-1480), east of Phuket Town just opposite the Royal Phuket City Hotel. For information on how to get from here to the beaches, see “Getting Around,” below.
BY MINIVAN Minivans to and from Surat Thani, Krabi, Nakhon Si Thammarat, Ranong, and other southern cities leave on regular schedules throughout the day. In each city, minivan operators work with the hotels and arrange free pickup so it’s best to book through your hotel front desk or a travel agent (also the operators who man the phones at minivan companies rarely speak English). Tickets to destinations in the south, to places like Surat Thani or Hat Yai, go for between 100B and 250B ($2.45–$6).
If you arrive by car or coach, you’ll cross over to Phuket from the mainland at the northern tip of the island via the Sarasin Bridge along Rt. 402. Phuket Town, the islands commercial center, is in the southeast of the island at the terminus of Rte. 402; local buses stop near Phuket Town. Phukets picturesque stretches of sand dot the stretch of western coast from Nai Harn, on the southern tip, to Bang Tao, about 30km (19 miles) north. Beginning in the south, you’ll find Kata Noi, Kata, Karon, Patong, Surin and a number of smaller beaches all along this corridor. A busy coastal road links the popular tour towns in the south, but stops north of Patong require short detours from the main highway. Inland Phuket, with its winding mountain roads, buzzes with traffic and many visitors rent vehicles to tour the island’s smaller byways or make the trip to jungle parks like Khao Phra Thaeo Wildlife Park in the northeast of the isle, famed for diverse flora and fauna. The western beaches have all the services visitors might need, but everything comes with resort prices and very Westernized and modern. For a taste of Thai life, affordable services and a few restaurants, hit Phuket Town (especially recommended if this is your only destination in Thailand).
Nai Harn, the southernmost bay on the west coast, is home to only one major resort and just a few scattered bungalows and, although the beach here is not as grand, it’s more laid back and quiet. The sand is fine and the water deep. As a public beach, with a few small, local eateries, it makes for a great day trip if you’re staying at a more populated beach and are wanting to run away for the day (a good long motorbike/car ride south of Kata/Karon). North of Nai Harn are the more popular developed beaches: Kata, Kata Noi, and Karon Beaches. Developed, but not overwhelmingly so (far from over-the-top Patong), along these beaches, you’ll find resorts large and small. In general this is the least expensive area on Phuket with still a few hold-out budget places that haven’t been dozed and made high-end yet. Sandy beaches are long and picturesque and the water is deep with some nice wave breaks. This beach area has more restaurants than the remote bays, and some shopping, nightlife, and travel agent options as well. But you won’t find rowdy crowds here and, even with all the development, the area manages to maintain a laid back character.
Finally, the northernmost recreation beach is at the Haad Nai Yang National Park. This remote area with limited facilities may not appeal to most, but for real beach lovers it’s a dream come true. Best yet, there is a coral reef just 1,400m (4,592 ft.) off shore. If you’re looking to get back to nature, Haad Nai Yang is your best bet.
Mai Khao is the northernmost beach in Phuket and is famed for the annual hatching of giant sea turtles. This stunning stretch of desolate beach now features Phukets latest luxury addition, the JW Marriott Phuket.
Public transportation is a problem on Phuket that never seems to get solved. It’s also very confusing for a few reasons. First of all, if you’ve spent any time in other parts of the country, you’ll know that the covered pickup trucks that cruise the streets picking up and dropping off passengers are called songtao, while the noisy motorized three-wheel demon vehicles are known as tuk-tuks. Not so on Phuket! Here, the people call the minitrucks tuk-tuks, while songtao are the giant colorful buses that ply the main roads (a few people also call them “baht buses”).
Here’s the problem: Tuk-tuk drivers, in an attempt to generate more business, have lobbied successfully for exclusive rights to transport people between beaches. This means the songtao buses are only permitted to travel from each beach to Phuket Town. You can’t hop from beach to beach on them. For these trips you have to negotiate with the tuk-tuk drivers (see below for tips).
BY SONGTAO The local bus terminal is in front of the Central Market on Ranong Road in Phuket Town. Fares to the most popular beaches range from 20B to 30B (45¢–70¢). Songtaos leave when full, usually every 30 minutes, from 7am to 6pm between Phuket town and the main beaches on the west coast. They do not operate routes between beaches.
BY TUK-TUK and DAIHATSU MINI Within Phuket Town, tuk-tuks cost about 20B to 40B (50¢–$1) for in-town trips: a good way to get to the bus station or to Phuket Town’s restaurants. In the west-coast beaches, tuk-tuks and small Daihatsu mini-trucks roll around town honking at any tourist on foot, especially in Patong. It is the only way to travel between beaches. Bargain hard and beware that these guys will try to eke every baht out of you. Expect to pay about 300B ($7.30) from town to the airport, 150B ($3.65) from town to Patong Beach and 120B ($2.90) from Patong Beach to Karon Beach. It costs more late at night and less if you can bargain ruthlessly (remember that you’re choosing from tens of drivers and walking away, or to the next vehicle, when the price isn’t right is an effective tactic).
BY MOTORCYCLE TAXI Drivers, identifiable by colored vests, make short trips within Phuket town or along Patong Beach for 20B–40B (50¢–$1). Don’t let them talk you into any but short in-town rides, in other words, the winding roads between beaches, unless you’re looking for a hair-raising adventure.
BY CAR Self-drive is popular in Phuket but extreme caution applies. Roads between the main beaches in the west and connecting with Phuket Town across the center of the island are dangerously steep and winding with more than a few hairpin turns and lots of traffic and motorbikes zipping around unpredictably. As in other parts of the kingdom, drivers pass aggressively, even on blind curves, and self-driving visitors will want to be very defensive and alert at all times.
Avis has a counter at Phuket Airport (Tel. 0 7653-1243). Plan on spending around 1,500B to 1,800B ($36–$44) per day for a Suzuki Caribian 4WD sport vehicle. Budget (Tel. 07620-5396) is a bit cheaper and has an airport location as well as counters at a number of hotels (JW Marriott, Evason Resort, Club Andaman Beach Resort in Patong). Both companies offer sedans, and both also have sound insurance coverage available, which is highly recommended. Inexpensive Suzuki Caribians can be rented from almost all travel agents and from hotels at the beach areas. Prices start at 1,200B ($29) per day. Independent agents hang around under umbrellas along Patong Beach and offer great bargains if you negotiate. Caribians go for as little as 900B ($22) a day (negotiable!), and 1,500B ($34) and over for open-top Jeeps and souped-up four-wheel drive off-road vehicles. While many resorts will rent you a car, I’ve found that the independent dealers have the same product for less money. Don’t count on the insurance policy.
BY MOTORCYCLE Also along the Patong strip, the same car-rental guys will provide you with a bike for cheap. A 100cc Honda scooter goes for 200B ($4.90) per day, while a 400cc Honda CBR or a 600cc Honda Shadow chopper will set you back at least 600B ($15) per day. Significant discounts can be negotiated if you plan to rent for a longer time. Wear your helmet (sometimesenforced fines of 500B/$12 for going without), keep to the left and let cars pass. You’re sure to meet-up with a few road-rashed travelers in any beach area and there is no quicker way to end a vacation than on slippery, treacherous roads, especially for inexperienced riders, so take practice caution.
Banks Banks are located in Phuket Town, with many larger branches on Ranong and Rasada roads. There are bank offices at the airport, as well as branches of major Thai banks at Kata, Karon, and Patong beaches. See each section for more complete information. Money changers are in major shopping areas on each beach, and at most resorts. Banks offer the best rates.
Bookstores Near the TAT office in Phuket Town, look for The Books at 53–55 Phuket Rd. (Tel. 0 7622-4362) or their outlet in Patong at 198/2 Rat-U-Thit Rd. (Tel. 0 7634-2980). There are also a few small bookstores on the small lanes off of Kata beach.
Post Office The General Post Office in Phuket Town (Tel. 0 7621-1020) is at the corner of Thalang Road and Montri Road. For post offices in the beach areas, see each corresponding section.
Hospitals The Bangkok Phuket Hospital at 2/1 Hongyok-Uthit Rd. (off Yaowarat Rd. in Phuket Town) (Tel. 0 7625-4425) has English-speaking staff and high quality facilities, plus they claim to accept some international medical insurance. Also with clinics at Patong (Soi Patong Beach Hotel, Tel. 0 7634-4699; and Laguna Canal Village, Laguna Phuket, Tel. 0 7632-5442).
Internet Internet service is fairly easy to find on the island. There are cafes aplenty in Patong, the best is further away from the beach. Along Rat-uthit Road in the center of Patong (a 5-min. walk east, away from the beach) you’ll find 1B per minute ($.025 per minute.) service. In Kata and Karon, a number of small storefronts have good connections.
Police The emergency number for the Tourist Police is fast-dial four digit Tel. 1155. For Marine Police call tel. 0 7621-4368.
 |
| Vegetarian Festival |
Medical services in Thailand are on par with anywhere in the developing world. Many practitioners have overseas degrees and experience. With such quality, affordable services, many tourists come to Thailand to have work done that would otherwise cost the proverbial arm and a leg elsewhere. So whether it’s the root-canal you’ve been putting off or that cosmetic procedure you’ve always dreamed of, why not do it for cheap and make up the difference with a few days/weeks/months at a beach resort? There are a number of tour operators that cater to these very needs and Bangkok Phuket Hospital, (see “Fast Facts” above) is one of many quality, affordable choices.
If Phuket is your only destination in Thailand, you’ll certainly want to get to some of the small rural temples and Phuket town, but touring Phuket pales in comparison to culturally rich areas like Bangkok or Chiang Mai. Beach and outdoor activities top the list of things to do and there’s certainly something for everyone (see “Exploring Phuket” at the end of this section). Opportunities to tour the islands rustic bays and many beaches or take day-trips to scenic Phang Nga Bay to the north or the islands jungle interior abound.
There are a few Buddhist temples on the island that are quite notable: the most unique is Wat Pra Tong, located along Highway 402 in Thalang just south of the airport. Years ago, a boy fell ill and dropped dead after tying his buffalo to a post sticking out of the ground. It was later discovered that the post was actually the top of a huge Buddha image that was buried under the earth. Numerous attempts to dig out the post failed—during one attempt in 1785, workers were chased off by hornets. Everyone took all this failure to mean that the Buddha image wanted to just stay put, so they covered the “post” with a plaster image of The Buddha’s head and shoulders and built a temple around it. Nearby Wat Pra Nahng Sahng houses three very interesting Buddha images made of tin, a local natural resource once considered semiprecious. Each image has a smaller Buddha in its belly.
The most famous temple among Thai visitors is Wat Chalong. Chalong was the first resort on Phuket, back when the Thais first started coming to the island for vacations. Nowadays, the discovery of better beaches on the west side of the island has driven most tourists away from this area, but the temple still remains the center of Buddhist worship. While the temple compound itself is pretty standard in terms of modern temples, the place comes to life during Buddhist holy days. The temple is on the Bypass Road, about 8km (5 miles) south of Phuket Town.
Sea Gypsies, considered the indigenous people of Phuket, are fast disappearing from the island and surrounds. Commercial fishing interests and shoreline development continue to threaten their livelihood of subsistence fishing. Related to Malaysian Orang Laut and the southern Thai Sakai tribes, Phuket and Pha Nga’s Sea Gypsies form a few small settlements on Phuket island, one on Koh Sirey east of Phuket Town, and another at Rawai Beach just south of Chalong Bay. The villages are simple, floating shacks and long-tail boats. Visits to some of the larger settlements in Pha Nga Bay are included in many island day trips.
It’s an enlightening experience to visit these people and their disappearing culture. Be prepared for panhandling children.
The islands hotels, resorts, and restaurants below are divided into beach areas to simplify choice. Hotels in this section are listed by the high-season rack-rate, an almost fictitious fee but a good point of departure for gauging price. Expect to pay from 30% and as much as 50% below the listed rate, especially in low season.
Most just pass through the island’s commercial hub, but there are some high-class facilities if you’re stuck and a few restaurants worth the trip, especially if Phuket Island is your only destination (see “Where to Dine on Phuket,” later in this chapter).
If you’re in a pinch and looking for a budget spot, The Tavorn Hotel (74 Rasada Rd., Amphur Muang, Phuket 83000; Tel. 0 7621-1333) is an old standby at the town center with rooms starting at 550B/$13. The hotel has seen better days though, in fact it has seen much better days and there is a little museum in the beat old lobby that testifies to the fact. A careful renovation could bring the old gal back to her former glory, days when she was the choice of kings, but for now it’s pretty rough. Phuket Island Pavillion (133 Satoon Rd.; Tel. 0 7621-0444) has better rooms starting at just 1,500B/$37.
The Metropole Just around the corner from the Royal Phuket City Hotel, the Metropole is a similar fine business hotel. Public spaces are all spit-and-polish (though not especially grand) and the rooms are large and fully appointed (if bland) with good black-and-white tile bathrooms. Service is professional but curt.
1 Soi Surin, Montri Rd. Phuket Town 83000.Tel. 0 7621-5050. Fax 07621-5990. www.metropolephuket.com. 248 units. 3,200B–3,800B ($78–$92) double; 6,000B ($146) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge and bar; pool; small fitness corner; tour desk; business center; shopping; salon; 24-hr. room service; laundry and dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.
Royal Phuket City Hotel For a small town like Phuket, this hotel is surprisingly cosmopolitan. A true city hotel, Royal Phuket’s facilities include one of the finest fitness centers going, a full-service spa with massage, large outdoor swimming pool and a very professional executive business center. Above the cavernous marble lobby, guest rooms are smart—in contemporary hues and style, but dull with views of the busy little town below that pale in comparison to the beachfront just a short ride away. Pickles Restaurant serves international cuisine and the Chinatown Restaurant is one of the most posh in town. Few indeed stay in Phuket Town, but if you’re stuck here, go for style.
154 Phang-Nga Rd.,Amphur Muang, Phuket 83000 (located to the east of Phuket Town, across from the intercity bus terminal).Tel. 0 7623-3333. Fax 07623-3335. www.royalphuketcity.com. 251 units. 3,500B–4,200B ($85–$102) double; from 6,000B ($146) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lobby lounge; outdoor pool; golf course nearby; fitness center w/sauna, steam, massage, spa; tour desk; limousine service; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, dataport, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
Just up the road from the Le Meridien you’ll find rustic bungalows at Jungle Beach Resort (11/3 Viset Rd.; Tel. and fax 07638-1108). There are no services to speak of, but it’s not a bad little getaway. Rooms start at 800B ($20).
Le Royal Meridien Phuket Yacht Club Perched above the northern edge of Nai Harn beach, overlooking the public beach and yachts beyond, the Yacht Club is one of the earliest luxury accommodations in Phuket yet still rivals nearly anything on the island for setting and comfort. Staff members in pith helmets greet with heel-clicking salutes and, as you enter, the pagoda-style foyer gives way to the terraced gardens overflowing with pink and white bougainvillea.
Common areas are terra-cotta tile and open air with views. All rooms have large balconies for viewing the beach, the Andaman Sea, and Promthep Cape from every angle. Interiors are spacious and decorated with cheerful fabrics and wicker furniture; bathrooms are huge, many with sunken tubs, and feature luxury amenities. The resort is more sedate and romantic than the many noisy family resorts on the island, exemplified by the Yacht Club’s sister property, Le Meridien Phuket.
23/3 Viset Rd., Nai Harn Beach, Phuket 83130 (above Nai Harn Beach, 18km/11 miles south of Phuket). Tel. 0800/225-5843 or 07638-1156. Fax 07638-1164. www.lemeridien.com. 110 units. 13,500B–14,350B ($330–$350) double; from 17,200B ($420) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; patio lounge; outdoor pool; 2 outdoor lighted tennis courts; small fitness center; spa w/Jacuzzi, steam, massage, face and body treatments; extensive watersports equipment; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center; small boutique; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies and satellite programming, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
Arguably one of the nicest beaches in Phuket, Kata is a wide strip of soft sand and rolling surf. Rent an umbrella for 100B ($2.45) per day, get a massage or grab a kayak or surfboard and hit the waves (okay, the small waves mostly). Unfortunately the most choice real estate near the beach is taken up by the sprawling Phuket Club Mediterranee (Tel. 0 7633-0455; www.clubmed.com) a branch of the famous luxury chain.
Kata Beach Resort Under major cosmetic renovations at the time of this writing, the new-and-improved Kata Beach will still reign in central Kata. With its soaring granite-and-marble lobby and fine rooms, it is the most formal facility on the Kata coast and attracts not only individual tourists looking for comfort, but a burgeoning international conference market. Go for a deluxe beach-view room in the central building—the slightly higher-priced choice, but the view really is lovely. All rooms have balconies and are attractively decorated.
5/2 Patak Rd., Kata Beach, Phuket 83100 (in the Kata Beach strip). Tel. 0 7633-0530, or 02939-4062 in Bangkok. Fax 07633-0128. 200 units. 4,600B ($112) superior double; 5,000B ($122) deluxe double (seaview); from 6,000B ($146) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; outdoor pool; fitness center with sauna and massage; watersports; children’s center; concierge; tour desk; limousine service; business center; shopping arcade; salon; limited room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe.
Kata Thani Hotel The Kata Thani is the best option on the cul-de-sac of lovely Kata Noi Beach and is a haven of quiet luxury. Though just completing a major renovation at the time of this writing, the cosmetic upgrade of this long-popular gem promises an even higher standard for the same good value. Neighboring Kataburi Hotel is under the same management and offers similar comfortable rooms without sea views for a slight discount. Wide, well-groomed lawns surround sizable pools and lead to the graceful curve of the pristine cove.
There is a nightly poolside buffet. The Kata Thani’s best feature is that it’s right on the beach and all rooms have good sea views. Kata Noi is a bit out of the fray, a few clicks south of the main Kata beach and far from the raucous strip at Patong, but the hotel is self-contained enough and can arrange transport for any excursion.
3/24 Patak Rd., Kata Noi Beach, Phuket 83100 (north end of Kata Noi Beach).Tel. 0 7633-0124. Fax 07633-0426. www.katathani.com. 530 units. 6,400B–7,200B ($145–$164) double; from 7,700B ($175) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 5 restaurants; lounge and library; 3 outdoor pools; golf course nearby; 2 outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center; aromatherapy spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; watersports equipment/scuba diving; game room; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; sameday laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe.
Mom Tri’s Boathouse & Villa Royale (aka “The Boathouse”) At the quieter south end of Kata Beach, this small inn is a long-time favorite with many returning visitors. More inn than resort, there’s a real home-style feeling here. Comfortable, attractive rooms all face the sea, each with a terrace overlooking courtyard pool and beach beyond but not particularly luxurious (though clean and adequate). Nothing about the hotel calls attention to itself really; instead, it’s the friendly, attentive staff that makes it very special. The Boathouse Wine and Grill, the first-floor restaurant, is a long-time favorite for the visiting connoisseur (see “Where to Dine on Phuket,” later in this chapter).
For a very special stay, stop in to their latest venture, Villa Royale, a collection of super-luxe suites. These large, luxury rooms are perched over a steep cliff with stunning views of the sea and are sumptuously decorated in a unique mix of local materials: dark teaks, mosaics of bamboo and coconut, black tile with stone inlay and elegant weavings. Mom Tri’s Kitchen, the hotel companion restaurant, offers some of the best dining on the island (see “Where to Dine on Phuket,” later in this chapter). They offer good cooking classes, too.
Kata Beach, Phuket 83100.Tel. 0 7633-0015. Fax 07633-0561. www.boathousephuket.com. 36 units at the Boathouse; 6 units at the Villa Royale. 7,000B–13,000B ($170–$317) Boathouse double; from 12,000B ($292) Villa Royale Suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge and library; outdoor pool; golf course nearby; fitness center; Jacuzzi; limousine service; limited room service (7am–10:30pm); massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
Marina Phuket These simple cottages, tucked in the jungle above a scenic promontory between Kata and Karon beaches, are quite comfortable and the best choice of the many mid-range places nearby. Rates vary according to the view, but all have a jungle bungalow charm, connected by hilly walkways and boardwalks past the lush hillside greenery (keep your eyes peeled for wildlife).
Guest rooms are decorated in Thai style but are not particularly luxurious: standard rooms are just plain tile floors and basic built-in furniture; superior rooms are just a bit larger with more flourish like fine Thai fabrics, higher ceilings and good views. It is a hike down to the rocky shore and the swimming isn’t great, but they have a good seaside restaurant (under major renovation at the time of this writing) and their in-house Marina Divers (Tel. 0 7638-1625) is a PADI International Diving School, which conducts classes, rents equipment, and leads good multi-day expeditions. The front desk staff is professional enough, friendly, and playful.
47 Karon Rd., Karon Beach, Phuket 83100 (on bluff at south end of Karon Beach rd.).Tel. 0 7633-0625. Fax 07633-0516. www.marinaphuket.com. 104 units. 4,400B–7,040B ($100–$160) double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; dive center; limited room service; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, no phone.
Suwasdee Village Just a short walk from Kata Beach you’ll pass a small portico of stone with some Khmer statuary; walk in and you’ve found a little Eden among the budget resorts of Kata. Everything is done on a small scale here but this little courtyard garden has a small pool with ornate fountains, garden areas bordered in ornate masonry and overflowing with greenery. There are lots of Thai salas for relaxing or getting a massage and they have wireless Internet so you can relax in the shade and tell the folks back home all about it. Rooms are large and stylish in wood with fine canopy beds. Bathrooms are shower only and not too big. There are no TVs. Sliding doors connect each room to the courtyard, a bit too intimate (crowded) for some. There are lots of Thai touches throughout and the place is kitschy but comfortable at cost. Across the street, there’s an inexpensive guesthouse and a good little restaurant owned by the same folks. It’s a 5-minute walk (around Club Med) to the beach.
68/69 Patak Rd., Kata Beach 83100 (down a small road north of the sprawling Club Med).Te. 0 7633-0979. Fax 07633-0905. www.phuketsawasdee.com. 46 units. 3,700B–4,100B ($90–$100); guesthouse rooms (across the street) start at 900B/$22. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (across the street); bar; small outdoor pool; tour desk; Internet; massage; laundry/dry cleaning service. In room: A/C, minibar, fridge, no phone.
Katanoi Bay Inn Here’s a no-muss-no-fuss pick for Phuket. This budget accommodation provides you with a comfortable, very clean room without paying out the nose for resort facilities you may not even use. Bright rooms have balconies and good firm beds and there is little else in the way of facilities, but there’s quiet Katanoi beach just across the road (near the Katatani Hotel). This small place is a bit remote, which for some is a plus.
4/16 Moo 2 Patak Rd., Kata Noi Beach, Phuket 83100 (Kata Noi is south of Kata Beach). Tel. and fax 07633-3308. www.phuket.com/katanoibayinn. 28 units. 1,200B ($29) double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; tour desk; car-rental desk; Internet terminal; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: Fridge, no phone.
Karon Beach is a long, straight stretch of beach lined with upper and mid-range hotels and resorts. You’ll find heaps of tailors, gift-shops, small restaurants, Internet service and mini-marts on the north end of the beach.
Andaman Seaview Hotel Here’s one I recommend heartily if you can book it (the word is out and they are often full). Bright and airy public spaces done in Mediterranean hues of light blue and white, a Sino-Portuguese theme, are flanked by ponds and give way to a large central courtyard, garden and meandering pool. Rooms overlook the pool area and are large and nicely appointed, better than most in this category. There is a charm throughout that is less about luxury than the warm welcome, tidy appearance of the place and the friendly crowd this attracts. The restaurant is a hotel coffee shop de rigueur but you’ll want to dine at poolside: In fact, do everything at poolside. There’s a small spa and you’re just across the street from Karon Beach.
Karon Rd. Phuket 83100 (along the main strip at Karon beach).Tel. 0 7639-8111. Fax 07639-8177. www.andamanphuket.com. 161 units. 6,900B ($168) superior double; 8,800B ($215) deluxe double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar (poolside); 2 outdoor pools; small fitness center; spa; Jacuzzi; Internet corner; giftshop; tailor; 24-hr. room service; massage; same-day laundry/dry cleaning service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making service, safe, IDD phone.
Phuket Arcadia Hotel Soon to rebrand as a Hilton hotel, this modern, full-facility resort is a massive presence on Karon Beach, and quite pleasant if a bit expensive for a not-so-great beach area. Rooms are attractive but rather bland, with standard bathroom facilities, all overlooking the beach and ocean. If you’re traveling with children, the studio double, with more space, will fit a couple of extra beds. The landscaping is a little stark, but the elevated pool and sun deck offer wonderful views of the bay.
78/2 Patak Rd., Karon Beach, Phuket 83100 (Middle of Karon Beach Rd.).Tel. 0 7639-6433. Fax 07639-6136. www.phuketarcadia.com. 475 units. 4,000B–8,400B ($98–$204) double; from 5,000B ($122) studio. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 5 restaurants; lounge and karaoke; large outdoor pool; golf course nearby and putting green on the premises; outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center with Jacuzzi, sauna, steam, and massage; game room; tour desk; limousine service; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, coffee/tea-making facilities, safe.
Thavorn Palm Beach Hotel Near the beach and next to the Phuket Arcadia (see above), this large resort covers a lot of territory, providing plenty of facilities. Only recently renovated, most rooms have fine views of the Karon dunes. The decor is minimal but pleasant, with tiled floors, rattan furnishings and small balconies. Suites are decorated in Thai style featuring teak woodcarvings and local textiles. The hotel is across the busy beach road, and the roar of automobile traffic can sometimes drown out the sound of the surf.
128/10 Moo 3, Karon Beach, Phuket 83110 (in mid–Karon Beach area).Tel. 0 7639-6091. Fax 07639-6555. www.thavornpalmbeach.com. 210 units. 4,000B–9,850B ($96–$240) double; from 23,760B ($540) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 5 restaurants; lounge; 4 outdoor pools; golf course nearby; outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center; watersports equipment; game room; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, hair dryer.
Karon Beach Resort This is the only Karon Beach property with direct beach access (from all others you’ll have to walk across the road). They are quite often full-up, and the hotel maintenance has a real time of it to keep up with the constant traffic, but this is a good, cozy choice at beachside and a good, affordable choice for young couples. Rooms are midsize, with dark wooden entries, clean tile floors and some Thai touches in decor but are most noteworthy for their orientation to the sea: Balconies are stacked in receding, semi-circular tiers and all look on the pool below (first floor with direct pool access) or to the beach and sea beyond. Good, nearby watersports rentals.
51 Karon Road, Tambon Daron, Phuket 83100 (the south end of Karon beach, just as the road bends up to cross to Kata). Tel. 0 7633-0006. Fax 07633-0217.www.katagroup.com. 81 units. 4,600B ($112); from 6,000B ($146) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 outdoor pools; tour desk; car rental; courtesy car and airport transfer; Internet corner; massage; laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe (charge of 50B/ $1.22), IDD phone.
Phuket Orchid Resort Another of the many Kata Group properties (see Karon Beach Resort and Kata Beach Resorts above), this is a popular stop for big tour groups, with affordable rooms and some good family amenities but not incredibly luxurious. The place is huge too, and constantly under renovation, but the large central areas are a plus: The kids pool has fun slides and the adult pool features a giant reproduction of the famous heads from the Bayon at Angkor Wat, quite impressive (only here the mouths squirt water and underneath is not a temple but a swim-up bar). Rooms are large and very clean, all with balcony, but plain. They have connecting rooms and family suites as well as first-floor deluxe rooms with “swim-up” access along the hotel pool’s long meander. They have good dining choices and a helpful tour desk. Even when overrun by groups, the front desk handles things with aplomb.
34 Luangphochuan Rd, Karon Beach, Phuket 83100 (just inland of the beach road in the south of Karon). Tel. 0 7639-6645-7. www.katagroup.com 525 units. 3,600B–4,200B ($88–$102) double; 4,700B ($114) family suite. AE, MC,V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; 3 outdoor pools; Jacuzzi; tour desk; car rental; Internet corner; shopping; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry/dry cleaning service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.
Golden Sand Inn One of only a few acceptable budget accommodations on this part of the island (they’re either getting converted into swanky digs or falling into disrepair as in Patong), the Golden Sand is clean, reasonably quiet, and well maintained. The location isn’t bad, on the northernmost end of Karon and not far from all the town services and the beach. Rooms are large and like a beat-up roadside motel. They do have a nice coffee shop though and a small swimming pool. Off-season rates are cheap-cheap. Karon Beach, Phuket 83100 (across highway from north end of beach above traffic circle).Tel. 0 7639-6493. Fax 07639-6117. 125 units. 1,800B–2,500B ($44–$61) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; laundry. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, fridge, safe.
Le Meridien Phuket Le Meridien Phuket is tucked away on secluded Relax Bay, with a lovely 549m (1,800-ft.) beach and 16 hectares (40 acres) of tropical greenery. This is one of the largest resorts on the island, and throughout the year it is packed with Asian and European vacationers. The advantages of a larger resort are its numerous facilities—two big swimming pools, watersports, four tennis courts, putting green and practice range, and a fine fitness center; the disadvantage is the crowds (during recent low-occupancy due to SARS the hotel was almost giving away rooms and the place was packed). The staff is helpful but harried and can often be found “dug-in” behind the front desk like soldiers in a trench for the onslaught of the many big groups here. The resort caters to families though and there are lots of activities and a good day-care center that kids just seem to love. The large building complex combines Western and traditional Thai architecture, and one of the advantages to its U-shape layout is that it ensures that 80% of the rooms face the ocean. The modern furnishings in cheerful rooms are of rattan and teak, each with a balcony and wooden sun deck chairs. No fewer than 10 restaurants give you all kinds of choice.
8/5 Tambol, Karon Noi, P.O. Box 277, Relax Bay, Phuket 83000. Tel. 0800/225-5843 or 07634-0480. Fax 07634-0479. www.lemeridien.com. 470 units. 11,500B–13,500B ($280–$330) double; from 18,000B ($440) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 10 restaurants; 4 pubs with games and live shows; 2 large outdoor pools; golf driving range and on-site pro; mini-golf; outdoor lighted tennis courts; squash courts; fitness center; watersports equipment and dive center; bike rental; excellent children’s center; game room; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe.
Amari Coral Beach Resort The Coral Beach stands on the rocks high above Patong, at the southern tip well away from the din of Patong’s congested strip, but close for access to the mayhem. The beachfront below is rocky, but the whole resort, from the very grand terraced lobby, guest rooms and fine pool, is situated toward incredible views of the huge bay below. The rooms have sea-foam tones, cozy balconies and all the comforts of home. There is live music nightly and the hotels Italian restaurant, La Gritta (see “Where to Dine,” later), is tops.
2 Meun-ngern Rd., Phuket 83150 (south and up-hill of Patong Beach).Tel. 0 7634-0106. Fax 07634-0115. www.amari.com. 200 units. 6,800B–7,950B ($165–$194) double; from 10,300B ($251) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; 2 outdoor pools; outdoor lighted tennis court; fitness center; brandnew spa; dive center; game room; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, safe.
Diamond Cliff Resort The Diamond Cliff is a gleaming hilltop resort, with rooms done in soothing sea greens, blues and light wood trim and all command great ocean views. The grounds are attractively landscaped and common areas are luxurious. They have irregular shuttle service to cover the distance down the hill and into town; after the one long walk you take on their special boardwalk to Patong that winds through the rocky coastline, you’ll want to get some wheels. The hotel does have quite a selection of good facilities and the place is in tip-top shape. Comparable to Novotel next door.
284 Prabaramee Rd., Patong, Phuket 83150 (far south end, on the road to Kamala Beach).Tel. 0 7634-0501. Fax 07634-0507. www.diamondcliff.com. 330 units. 10,500B–11,000B ($256–$269) double; from 12,500B ($305) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 8 restaurants; lounge; outdoor pool; mini-golf; outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center; small spa; dive center; game room; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, safe.
Holiday Inn Resort Phuket The older buildings at this Holiday Inn are modern, concrete blocks and not particularly luxurious, but the new Busakorn Wing features more stylish rooms in Thai decor with teak appointments, carving and pottery. If on a honeymoon, go for the newer rooms; if with the kids, the old block will do the trick (and save some money). In fact, what distinguishes the Holiday Inn is their excellent offerings for traveling families. The central pool areas have elaborate fountains and a fun meander suited to kids of all ages and the hotel has active kids’ programs and a children’s center not to mention babysitting for when mom and dad need a night out. There are lots of family activities and excursions to choose from. There are even Family Suites, with separate “kids rooms” that have jungle or pirate theme decor, TV with video and PlayStation, stocked toy boxes, and some with bunk beds. The hotel also has self-service launderette so you don’t have to pay hotel laundry prices for the bio-mass of play clothes your kids will rip through: quite unique. Also unique is the hotels minibar scheme whereby rooms have just a bare fridge and guests visit a small convenience store in the lobby and choose what they would like and have it delivered to their room at a cost of only a small bump-up from retail price.
52 Thaweewong Rd., Patong Beach, Phuket 83150 (Patong Beach strip).Tel. 0800/HOLIDAY or 07634-0608. Fax 07634-0435. www.phuket.holiday-inn.com. 369 units. 5,200B ($118) standard double; 6,800B ($154) Bussakorn studio or family suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; 4 outdoor pools; fitness center; spa with massage, sauna and steam; tip-top children’s center and programs; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning and self-service launderette. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, choose-your-own minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
Impiana Phuket Cabana Resort This is the only accommodation in Patong with direct beachfront access and that alone sets it apart, but there’s a nice feel to the place, too, a clean but rustic chic. Deluxe cabanas are quiet and have exposed wood beams, dark lacquered bamboo and rattan wall coverings, and stone floors. There’s a small but very stylish pool and busy Patong Beach is accessed by a verdant garden, no need to cross the street as in all other resorts. Amenities are limited but the restaurant is one of the best in Patong and public areas are scenic and stylish. Rooms are a real value for the price. A good choice.
41 Thaweewongse Rd., Patong Beach, Phuket 83150 (middle of beach road). Tel. 0 7634-0138. Fax 07634-0178. www.impiana.com. 80 units. 5,400B–6,600B ($131–$160) double; 7,000B ($170) family room; from 10,800B ($263) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; pool; watersports equipment; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; Internet center; limited room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
Merlin Beach Resort and Patong Merlin The Merlin Group maintains two massive compounds, one in central Patong, the other more choice property is 3km (2miles) south on scenic Merlin Beach, a small horseshoe of sand in an isolated bay (the beach is all coral though so not for swimming). Both are popular with Australian tourists, and feature particularly attractive common areas, spacious open-plan lobby with oversize rattan furniture and rooms with balconies and views of pool or seaside. Both facilities feature stunning lagoon-style swimming pools each with a pool bar and some rooms even have private “swim-up” access. There are nicely manicured gardens throughout. Both are all-inclusive with facilities ranging from a fine fitness club, watersports, game room, gym, sauna, and snooker. The Merlin Beach resort, with its private beach access, is the better of the two with newer rooms just a hitch higher standard. The resort is somewhat remote from the action of Patong, but for some that is its greatest asset.
Paton Merlin: 99/2 Moo 4, Patong Beach, Phuket 83150 (on Patong strip near south end of town). Tel. 0 7634-0037. Fax 07634-0394. www.merlinphuket.com. 386 units. 4,800B ($117) double; from 9,000B
($220) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; 3 pools; outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center; watersports equipment; game room; tour desk; limousine service; 24-hr. room service; massage;
babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, IDD phone.
Merlin Beach Resort: 158 Jawaraj Rd. Phuket 83000 (3km/2 miles south and west of Patong). Tel. 0 7621-2866. Fax 0762-16429. www.merlinphuket.com. 414 units. 6,000B–6,500B ($146–$159) double; from 15,000B ($366) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; bar and lounge; 2 outdoor pools; tennis; small fitness center; spa with massage, Jacuzzi, sauna, steam; tour desk; car-rental desk; business center w/Internet; shopping arcade; limited room service; babysitting; same-day laundry and dry cleaning service; ballroom and meeting rooms; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, safe, IDD phone.
Novotel Carolia Phuket Just next to the Diamond Cliff Resort (above) and a similar standard on the north end of Patong, the Novotel is a lovely hilltop hideaway. It is typical of Accor hotels anywhere: good services and comfortable rooms done in a local style. What sets this apart is the three-tiered pool at the center of the property and its dynamic view of the beach and sea from this towering point. The lobby is under an enormous steep Thai roof, and from their luxury massage pavilions to their many fine dining choices, you are constantly reminded of Thai culture and wrapped in comfort.
Kalim Beach Rd, Patong Beach 83150 (on the hill north of town, just as the road heads uphill).Tel. 0 7634-2777. Fax 07634-2168. www.novotelphuket.com. 215 units. 6,500B–8,500B ($159–$207); from 11,000B ($268) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; pool (with multiple tiers); 2 tennis courts; fitness center; sauna; tour desk; car-rental desk; business center w/Internet; shopping; 24-hr. room service; massage; kids’ club; babysitting; laundry/dry cleaning service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.
Budget accommodation is best along Kata and Karon beaches in the southern end of the island. In Patong, budget hotels are generally run-down, even seedy owing to the hostess bar and go-go scene, but below are a few of the better choices.
Blue Ocean Resort Nothing to write home about here, but you didn’t come to Patong to write letters, right? This is a good, affordable base for Phuket’s party town. The place wants to be a resort and there’s even a small pool but this is just a convenient, motel style block away from the noise of the nighttime fray but in easy walking distance. Plain but clean rooms have spongy mattresses, tile floors and shower-in-room baths. Just the basics but clean and convenient.
210/23 Soi Kepsap (a 5-min. walk east of the Patong beach road and near where the small sois spill-out onto
central Rat-u-thit Rd.). Tel. 0 7634-5191. Fax 07634-5191. 30 units. 1,000B–1,500B ($24–$37). MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor pool; tour desk; laundry service.In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.
Royal Palm Resortel If you want to be in the center of it all, Royal Palm is smack-dab in the middle of the crazy main thoroughfare at beachside. Rooms are not bad—with king-size beds, small closets and a bathroom with bathtub. It’s noisy and busy but affordable.
66/2 Taweewong Rd., Patong Beach, Phuket 83150 (in the middle of the Patong Beach strip).Tel. 0 7629-2510. Fax 07629-2510. 43 units. 2,300B ($56) double; from 4,300B ($105) suite. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant;
small rooftop pool; limited room service; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.
.jpg "PANSEA BEACH (SURIN BEACH)"){kind=small}
Also known as Surin Beach, the Pansea area has coconut plantations, steep slopes leading down to the beach, and small, private coves dominated by two of the most secluded and divine hotels on the island.
Amanpuri The discreet and sublime Amanpuri is the Phuket address for international celebrities. It is the most elegant and secluded resort in Thailand and quite possibly all of Southeast Asia. The lobby is an open-air pavilion with a standing Buddha near a lovely swimming pool and stairs leading to the beach. Freestanding pavilion suites dot the dense coconut palm grounds; each is masterfully designed in a traditional Thai style, with teak and tile floors, sliding teak doors, exquisite built-ins, and well-chosen accents, including antiques. Private salas (covered patios), are perfect for romantic dining or secluded sunbathing.
Pansea Beach, Phuket 83110. (North end of cove).Tel. 0 7632-4333. Fax 07632-4100. 53 units. 21,500B–26,250B ($525–$640) garden view pavilion; 33,000B–55,440B ($890–$1,460) sea view pavilion. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; pool; golf course nearby; outdoor lighted tennis courts; squash courts; fitness center; spa; sauna; watersports equipment and instruction; private yacht fleet; library; concierge; limousine service; limited room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, minibar, fridge, hi-fi.
The Chedi Phuket Like its august neighbor, Amanpuri (see above), the Chedi commands an excellent view of the bay below and has its own private stretch of sand. From the exotic lobby (with columns and lily pond) to sleek and handsome private bungalows, it is one of the most handsome properties on the island. It’s quality with a big price tag, but this romantic getaway has it down to the details. Each room is a thatched mini-suite with a lovely private sun deck and top amenities. The black tile swimming pool is large and luxurious. The snappy staff can arrange any watersports, sightseeing tour or activity. The fine service here caters to the likes of honeymooners and celebrities and everyone is a VIP. While it may not be as outwardly impressive as its extraordinary neighbor, The Chedi is quiet, comfortably informal, and very relaxing with fine dining options. They have a new, top-notch cooking school as well.
118 Moo 3, Choeng Talay, Pansea Beach, Phuket 83110 (next to the Amanpuri).Tel. 0 7632-4017. Fax 07632-4252. www.ghmhotels.com. 108 units. 15,580B–27,800B ($380–$680) 1-bedroom cottage; 20,000B–34,850B ($490–$850) 2-bedroom cottage. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; outdoor pool; 2 outdoor lighted tennis courts; volleyball and badminton; spa; watersports equipment; children’s center; game room; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, coffee/tea-making facilities, safe.
.jpg "BANG THAO BAY (THE LAGUNA RESORT COMPLEX)"){kind=small}
Twenty minutes south of the airport and just as far north of Patong beach on the western shore of Phuket, this isolated area is Phuket’s high-end, “integrated resort” of five high-end properties that share the islands most top-rated facilities. Among them you’ll find world-class health spas, countless restaurants and the island’s best golf course. The grounds are impressively landscaped, and the hotel properties are scattered among the winding lagoons, all navigable by boat. The best thing about staying here is that you can dine at any of the fine hotel restaurants, connecting by boat or free shuttle, and be charged on one simple bill at whatever resort you choose.
Banyan Tree Phuket Banyan Tree is a famous hideaway for honeymooners and high society (Paparazzi-free for your protection). There is nothing like it for people of means who need an escape. Private villas with walled courtyards (many with private pool or Jacuzzi) are spacious and grand, lushly styled in teakwood with outdoor bathtubs. Style throughout is low Thai pavilions and there are good Thai touches like platform beds and large Thai murals depicting the Ramakien, an ancient Thai saga. The resort can arrange private barbecues at your villa, and private massage in the room or in outdoor pavilions. The reception area is a large open sala with lovely lotus pools. A small village in itself, the spa provides a wide range of beauty and health treatments in luxurious rooms.
Their Tamarind Restaurant serves delicious, light, and authentic spa cuisine. The main pool is truly impressive—a free-form lagoon, landscaped with greenery and rock formations—with a flowing water canal. There’s a top-notch golf course on-site and private tour office. The Banyan tree garners many international awards.
33 Moo 4, Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay District, Amphur Talang, Phuket 83110 (north end of beach). Tel. 0800/525-4800 or 07632-4374. Fax 07632-4375. 121 units. 23,800B ($580) Jacuzzi villa; 36,000B ($880) pool villa. 49,000B ($1,200) Spa Pool Villa; from 57,400B ($1,400) for 2-bedroom suites. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 6 restaurants; lounge; outdoor lagoon-style pool; golf course; 3 outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center; award-winning spa w/spa pool, sauna, steam, massage; watersports equipment; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/ pay movies and satellite programming, minibar; fridge; coffemaker; safe; IDD phone.
Dusit Laguna Resort The Dusit hotel group has some fine properties in Thailand, and the Dusit Laguna is no exception. The rooms are midsize and done with pastel tiles, faux columns and bathrooms that open to the living area by wide, wooden doors. Spring for a deluxe room with a balcony and ocean view for not much more than standard. Suites are large and luxurious. There are lots of Thai touches throughout, some tacky, others, like some of the large, traditional hangings, are quite pleasing. The hotel features some fine dining options, particularly of note is their quaint Italian restaurant, La Trattoria, serving authentic Italian in a chic but laid-back garden-side pavilion decorated in cool whites and blues. The well-landscaped gardens at seaside have an especially delightful waterfall and an excellent pool, and the grounds open onto a long, wide, white sand beach flanked by two lagoons. Facilities for kids are great: a Kids Corner; babysitting; a playground, and computer games.
390 Srisoontorn Rd., Cherngtalay District, Phuket 83110 (south end of beach).Tel. 0 7632-4320. Fax 07632-4174. www.dusit.com. 226 units. 12,300B–13,900B ($300–$340) double; from 19,000B ($465) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; lounge; free-form outdoor pool; golf course nearby and pitch and putt on premises; outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center; spa w/Jacuzzi, sauna, steam, massage; watersports equipment/rentals; bike rental; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C; satellite TV; minibar; fridge; coffee/tea-making facilities; safe; IDD phone.
Sheraton Grande Laguna Phuket The grand-daddy of the lagoon in terms of size, the Sheraton is a sprawling, luxury campus of two and three story hotel-style pavilions. Rooms are quite large and luxurious with tile floors, cozy sitting areas, large balconies and some bathrooms have sunken tubs. On a large island, the hotel design carefully traces the natural lines, the coves and jetties, of the surrounding lagoon and the area is quiet and very private. The pool is a long, winding meander and there are good amenities for kids of all ages, from a kids’ club (called VIK or Very Important Kids) to beach games and sailboat rental at their private, sandy put-in at the lagoon. With both fine dining and more casual eateries and cafes (including a good bakery) and a very professional staff, the Sheraton is a fine, reliable, familiar choice.
10 Moo 4, Bang Tao Bay, Phuket 83110.Tel. 0 7632-4101. Fax 07632-4108. www.starwood.com. 335 units. 11,500B–21,300B ($280–$520) double; from 23,400B ($570) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 6 restaurants; bar and lounge; free-form outdoor pool; golf course nearby; 2 outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center; spa; water-sports equipment/rentals; bike rental; kids’ club; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center w/Internet; shopping; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C; satellite TV; minibar; fridge; coffeemaker; hair dryer; safe; IDD phone.
Nai Yang National Park is a long stretch of shoreline peeking out from underneath a dense forest of palms, casuarina, and other indigenous flora. It’s good for those who want to leave the crowds behind, but be warned that it is isolated and, short of Pearl Village (see below) quite rustic (there are basic bungalows or you can rent a tent for a stay in a campground). The area has become exceedingly popular with Thai campers and young backpackers.
Nai Yang has been known for its part in National Fish Species Multiplication Day, when the Phuket’s Marine Biological Center released its crop of sea turtles back into the Andaman Sea. The turtles weigh from 100 to 1,500 pounds and swim the waters around Phuket, unprotected from fishermen. If not for the efforts of the Marine Biological Center, these creatures would probably be locally extinct. April 13, during the Songkran holiday, is the day of release. You’ll have to pay 30B (75¢) to enter the park and there is a small information kiosk and restaurant at the park headquarters. Tent accommodation begins at 20B
(50¢) if you bring your own gear, 100B ($2.45) for a small tent and up to 1,200B ($29) for a four-man rustic bungalow. For more information, contact Sirinath Park Campground 89/1 Moo 1, Talang, Phuket 83110; Tel. 0 7632-8226.
Pearl Village One of the earliest resorts to go up on Phuket (the idea was that more might follow but didn’t), the Pearl Village is an aging property but nevertheless holds its own due to its location, facilities, and friendly atmosphere.
On the periphery of the national park, the hotel is isolated from the ravages of over-development characterizing the rest of tourist Phuket. The facilities are good, especially for families; “Cottage” suites are private, connecting rooms and there’s a central play area, games and babysitting services that make it a good place to bring the brood. The one drawback is that you’re out in the sticks here.
For some, that is just what they’re looking for and the nearby coral beaches at Nai Yang are enough of an amusement; for others (like teenagers) it means banishment from the action of Patong.
Nai Yang Beach and National Park, Amphur Talang, Phuket 83104 (5 min. south of the airport).Tel. 0 7632-7006. Fax 07632-7338. www.pearlvillage.co.th. 243 units. 4,500B ($110) double; 5,300B ($129) cottage; from 5,500B ($134) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; lounge; pool; outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center; spa; Jacuzzi; watersports and dive center; bike rental; children’s center; game room; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; Internet center; limited room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV w/in-house movies, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
JW Marriott Phuket Resort and Spa The clean lined luxury of the Marriott could make a haiku poet out of anyone. Along the windswept stretch of sand and roaring surf along desolate Mai Khao beach, this resort is a masterpiece of luxury and service. Arrivals at night will awe to the opulence of oversized torches lining the circular drive and the wide, low pavilions of the lobby surround an enormous, black reflecting pool that sparkles with torchlight.
There are no services outside of the hotel and it is a 30-minute drive to the nearest tourist area, but the resort facilities are complete and guests needn’t leave. Rooms are private getaways with open-plan bathrooms, a small meditation and reading corner with Thai cushions and lovely balconies that give way to sumptuous gardens: A hidden Eden. Service at the Marriott is of a standard far beyond any of the many hotels and resorts of Phuket. Come to the Marriott to leave it all behind, enjoy fine spa treatments, sports, activities, and fine dining. And you can write that haiku in your private meditation corner. The hotel can arrange transport anywhere on the island and there are a host of fine excursions to choose from at their helpful tour desk.
231 Moo 3, Mai Khao, Talang, Phuket 83110. Tel. 0 7633-8000. Fax 07634-8360. www.marriott.com. 21,500B–24,000B ($525–$590) deluxe double; from 55,300B ($1,350) suite. AE, DC, MC,V. 265 units. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 3 bars; 2 outdoor pools; 2 tennis courts; top-notch fitness center w/lots of activities; extensive spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; watersports equipment rentals (Hobie Cat and runabouts); bicycles (free to guests); children’s center; kids’ club; teen activity center w/computers; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive level rooms w/private check-in. In room: A/C, satellite TV w/in-house movies, dataport (modem connection), minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
From tip-to-tip, north to south, it’s over an hour drive on Phuket, but hired tuk tuks, hotel transport or even self-drive vehicles mean that for dining and nightlife, you can choose from any on the island. The beache areas in the west are choc-a-bloc with small, storefront eateries and Patong features everything from the obligatory McDonald’s and Starbucks to designer sushi chains.
A long ride from the west coast beach areas, a night out in Phuket Town is worth it for some fine meals and a taste of local culture. Ka Jok See THAI This is one of those special finds in Thailand. A classy, exclusive restaurant peopled by hotel big-wigs and local businessmen hides behind an unassuming storefront hanging with ivy—there is no sign (look for the small Indian restaurant next door). Wood-beamed ceilings, antiques lit by candlelight and classic jazz set the stage. Ka Jok See is smart and chic, cozy, and intimate. They prepare fabulous dishes like the house specialty, goongsaroong—vermicelli-wrapped shrimp fried quick and light and served with a velvety mustard dipping sauce. There are great daily specials and entrees like smoky grilled eggplant and shrimp salad or stir-fried beef curry. This place is well worth a venture from the beach for an evening.
26 Takuapa Rd., Phuket Town (a short walk from central Rasada Rd.).Tel. 0 7621-7903. Reservations recommended for weekends. Main courses 150B–380B ($3.40–$8.65). No credit cards. Tues–Sun 6pm–midnight (kitchen closes around 11pm); closed Mon. Salvatore “Va bene!” It’s the real thing here: pasta, grilled dishes, huge salads and great pizza in a large air-conditioned dining room at the town center. The wine list is great and Salvatore himself comes to your table and will make you something special. There are lots of Italian restaurants in all of the resort areas of Thailand, but this one is the best with an unpretentious atmosphere and good food that brings many regular customers. Fine pasta, lasagna, steaks, cacciatore dishes and a range of daily specials are all made with fresh ingredients and all the extras, like the important spices, garnish, even prosciutto and of course the wine, are imported. Don’t miss the dessert of Limoncello Truffle, a liqueur meringue that will melt your palate and goes great with their strong coffee.
15 Rasada Rd., Tambol Taladyai, Phuket (central Phuket Town). Tel. and fax 07622-5958. Main courses 140B–650B ($3.40–$16). AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–3pm; 6–11pm.
The busy road between Kata and Karon (as well as the many side streets) are choc-a-bloc with small cafes and restaurants serving affordable Thai and Western food. Stop by Euro Deli (58/60 Karon Rd.; Tel. 0 7628-6265) for a good sandwich (open 8am–1am).
The Boathouse and Mom Tri’s Kitchen THAI/INTERNATIONAL So legendary is the Thai and Western cuisine at the Boathouse, that the inn where it resides offers popular holiday packages for visitors who wish to come and take lessons from its chef. A large bar and separate dining area sport nautical touches and through huge picture windows diners can watch the sun set over the watery horizon. Cuisine combines the best of East and West and chefs use only the finest ingredients. If you’re in the mood for the works, the Phuket lobster is one of the most expensive dishes on the menu, but is worth every baht. The Boathouse also has an excellent selection of international wines—420 labels. And if that doesn’t tickle your taste buds, Mom Tri’s Kitchen, the latest upscale venture from the folks at the Boathouse, is just up the hill and serves similar fine cuisine from its luxury perch. Bon appétit. The Boathouse Inn, 114 Patak Rd. Tel. 0 7633-0557. Reservations recommended during peak season. Main courses 280B–850B ($6.80–$21); seafood sold at market price. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7am–10:30pm.
Karon Café A long-time standby on a busy sidestreet just off Prajak road at the north end of Karon, the Karon Café is owned by an American expat and it’s a good bet for tasty, affordable Western fare. The burgers are scrumptious, they have a few good Tex-Mex dishes and the house special is imported Aussie steaks cooked to order. Follow it up with a slice of apple pie. They have lots of specials like the daily breakfast buffet, and it’s a good place to pickup a paper and beat the heat in the air-conditioned dining room or watch the day go by from their small balcony. East of Karon circle and up first big soi running north off of Prajak Rd. Can’t miss the sign. Tel. 0 7628-6400. www.karoncafe.com. Main courses 100B–600B ($2.40–$15). Cash only. Daily 6am–12am.
On the Rock Part of the Marina Phuket (see “Where to Stay on Phuket” earlier in this chapter), this little unassuming restaurant serves tip-top Thai meals from their scenic deck high above the south end of Karen beach. Just finishing construction at the time of this writing, the new restaurant promises even finer, but still laid-back and rustic, atmosphere with some of the best views of Karon beach below. Try the Seafood Basket, a medley of grilled and fried ocean critters. They have steaks and French entrees like Chicken Cordon Bleu, but stick with the better Thai dishes for a great meal in a great atmosphere.
47 Karon Rd., Karon Beach, Phuket 83100 (on bluff at south end of Karon Beach rd.Tel. 0 7633-0625. Fax 07633-0516. www.marinaphuket.com. Main courses 120B–580B ($2.90–$14). AE, MC, V. Daily 8am–11pm.
Some of the best seafood dining in busy Patong doesn’t come from any upscale restaurant, but at the small Seafood Night Market in the north end of Patong along busy, central Rat-u-thit Road. It’s really just a collection of outdoor restaurants sharing a large open-air dining area. Visitors who approach or show any interest will be attacked with menus and implored to choose from among the restaurants. Can be a bit off-putting, but just pick a menu or a kind face (the others will disperse) and order from a wide selection of fresh seafood as you like it (all the seafood is displayed on iced countertops, so have a look). Good food at a fraction of restaurant price. Down Soi Kepsup, deep among the small lanes in the southern end of town, you might come across Song Pee Nong Restaurant (Tel. 0 1892-6381) a little open-air joint on a busy corner serving good Western-style Thai (read: not spicy) for cheap. The place is always packed with budget travelers and you sit family style so a good spot to strike up a conversation.
One little backpacker breakfast place I like is Sabai-Sabai (100/3 Thaweewong Rd.; Tel. 0 7634-0222); the name means “relaxed” and they are indeed so, just a laid-back storefront in a small soi off of busy Patong beach road.
Baan Rim Pa THAI In a beautiful Thai-style teak house, Baan Rim Pa has dining in a romantic indoor setting or with gorgeous views of the bay from outdoor terraces. Among high-end travelers, the restaurant is long one of the most popular stops on the island so be sure to reserve your table early. Thai cuisine features seafood, with a variety of other meat and vegetable dishes, including a rich duck curry and a sweet honey chicken dish. The seafood basket is a fantastic assortment of prawns, mussels, squid, and crab. The owner of Baan Rim Pa has opened up a few other restaurants on the cliffside next to Baan Rim Pa, most notable is the Japanese restaurant, Otowa (Tel. 0 7634-4235).
223 Kalim Beach Rd., (on the cliffs just north of Patong Beach). Tel. 0 7634-0789. Reservations necessary. Main courses 250B–1,200B ($6–$29). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm and 6–10pm.
La Boucherie STEAK “Le Moo!” says the French cow. La Boucherie has got good steaks and serves ‘em up thick and juicy. It’s a sparse, black-and-white tiled, air-conditioned and boxy, glass storefront. The red and white-striped tablecloths are a good touch and the playful staff and eighties pop music keeps it light. Try their daily specials, usually steak but lamb, pork and chicken too, all fixed as you like it: blackened, with peppercorns, rare, etc. They have a good wine list and you can follow it up with ice cream for dessert.
1 Sawatdirak Rd, Patong (a short walk east of the beach road past a few hostess bars).Tel. 0 7634-4581. Main courses 270B–420B ($6.60–$10.25). MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.
La Gritta ITALIAN Similar to the Amari chain’s other fine Italian restaurants of the same name, this one is notable for it’s views of Patong beach below, the best in town really. It’s classic Northern Italian cuisine, anti-pastas, salads, soup and grilled entrees and pastas accompanied by an extensive wine list. They use all fresh ingredients and serve a colorful antipasto plate that makes a great shared appetizer while watching the fireworks of a Phuket sunset. At the Amari Hotel; 2 Meun-ngern Rd., Phuket 83150 (south and uphill of Patong Beach). Tel. 0 7634-0106. Main courses 170B–520B ($4.15–$13). AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.
Patong Seafood Restaurant SEAFOOD Take an evening stroll along the lively Patong Beach strip and you’ll find quite a few open-air seafood restaurants displaying their catch of the day on chipped ice buffet tables out front. The best choice of them all is the casual Patong Seafood, for the freshest and the best selection of seafood, including several types of local fish, lobster, squid (very tender), prawn, and crab. The menu has a fantastic assortment of preparation styles—with photos of popular Thai noodles and Chinese stir-fry dishes. Service is good and they’re popular enough that they don’t employ a carnival barker like most along the strip; just attract with their food rather than promote with ploys.
Patong Beach Rd., Patong Beach. Tel. 0 7634-0247. Reservations not accepted. Main courses 80B–250B ($2–$6); seafood at market price. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7am–11pm.
Sala Bua THAI One of the only restaurants in Patong that enjoys a beachside location, fine dining at Sala Bua is romantic and stylish with the roll and hush surf for a soundtrack. The lunch menu features light Thai dishes, Western sandwiches and burgers. More pricey evening fare includes southern-Thai-style seafood favorites—local Phuket lobster, huge juicy tiger prawns, and fresh fish steaks in a variety of local preparation styles—expensive but a good value. Their imported New Zealand tenderloin is award winning. For dessert, try the unique sticky-rice sushi rolls with sweet coconut milk and mango. Sala Bua is a far more intimate option from the crowded seafood joints across the street.
Under the pavilion, candlelight and local decor make for a romantic atmosphere, but to see the beach you must sit on the patio. In the Phuket Cabana Hotel, 94 Thaweewong Rd., Patong Beach (at the north end of the beach at Phuket Cabana Hotel). Tel. 0 7634-2100. Reservations recommended for weekends. Main courses 180B–1,360B ($4.40–$33). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6:30pm–midnight.
Sea Hag Restaurant THAI The name is far from appealing, but everything else about the place is, making it a favorite hang-out for local residents and travelers. Just down a small soi off of the beachfront road, it’s a small storefront among many, but the food is superb, the baked seafood in curry is rich and delicious, grilled fish with tamarind sauce highly recommended—the casual dining atmosphere is charming and the all-male staff is a real hoot.
78/5 Soi Permpong III, Patong Beach. Tel. 0 7634-1111. Main courses 80B–200B ($1.95–$4.90). No credit cards. Daily 11am–2pm, 5pm–midnight.
The many hotel restaurants of the 5-star properties in the Laguna Complex could fill a small guidebook of its own. You can’t go too wrong in any of the hotels really and here, more than anywhere, it’s a question of getting what you pay for; from super-luxurious fine-dining to laid-back hotel grills or snack corners, they cover it all. One restaurant just outside the complex is worth mentioning (it’s where all the hotel managers eat when they get out of work).
Tatanka INTERNATIONAL Billed as “Globe-trotter Cuisine”, dining at Tatanka is indeed a foray into the realm of a culinary nomad. Harold Schwarz, the young owner and well-traveled chef, puts to use his many years in hotel restaurants around the world (his resume is written on the bathroom wall, each tile features another of Harold’s many stops). “Fusion” is a battered and broken term in restaurant parlay, but dishes here are a creative melding of Mediterranean, Pan-American and Oriental influence. The emphasis is on variety and selections from the tapas menu include vegetable quesadillas, California crab cakes, stuffed Calamari cups, wanton wafers and musha rolls. The menu is updated frequently and depends on what is fresh that day, but features anything from Peking duck to pizza, gazpacho to Thai tom-yam (hot and sour soup with shrimp). Ask what’s good and enjoy.
382/19 Moo 1, Srisoontorn Rd., Cherngtalay, Phuket 83110 (At the entrance of the Laguna Resort in Bangtao Bay).Tel. and fax 07632-4349. Main courses 150B–420B ($3.65–$10) MC, V. Daily 6pm–last order.
One good bet for fresh seafood is in the far south of the island in Chalong Bay at Kan Eang Seafood (9/3 Chaofa Rd., Chalong Bay; Tel. 0 7638-1323). Whole fish and specials like Phuket Lobster just jump out of the nets and onto your plate. If you’ve rented wheels, a ride down this way makes for a fun day.
You can spend a lot of time on Phuket and still not do everything. Thanks to years of resort growth, there are a host of activities here and certainly something for everyone. The beachfront areas are full of tour operators, each vying for your business and offering similar trips (or copycat tours). Below are listed the most reputable firms but still ask lots of questions before signing up for anything (everything from safety precautions to the lunch menu) so there are no surprises.
Most of the noisier watersports activities are concentrated along Patong Beach—so swimmers can enjoy other beaches without the buzz of a jet ski or power boat. Jet skis are technically illegal, but can still be rented out for 30 minutes at 700B/$17 (if you can’t beat ’em, join ’em). A 10-minute parasailing ride is 600B ($15) and you can rent outboard runabouts by the hour or the day. You’ll also find Hobie Cats for around 600B ($14) per hour, as well as windsurf boards for 200B ($4.90) per hour. On Patong, there are no specific offices to organize these activities, just small operators with hand-painted signs usually hanging around under umbrellas.
You’ll find small sailboats and kayaks for rent along all of the beaches. Kata is a good place to rent a kayak and play in the waves for 200B/$4.90 per hour.
For a different view of the gorgeous Phang-Nga Bay, book a trip aboard the June Bahtra, a restored Chinese sailing junk, to cruise the islands. Full day trips include lunch and hotel transfers. Adults are 2,200B ($50) per person (alcoholic beverages not included), while children up to age 12 are 1,500B ($34) each.
Contact East West Siam, 119 Rat-U-Thit 2000 Year Rd., Patong (Tel. 0 7634-0912).
Blue Water Anglers are deep-sea fishing experts with well-equipped boats. They’ll take you out for marlin, sailfish, swordfish, and tuna, and also have special night-fishing programs, but be warned that if you’re new to the sport, it ain’t cheap—the trip will set you back thousands of baht. Stop by at 35/7 Sakadidet Rd., Phuket Town or call tel.0 7639-1287. Or you can check out www.bluewater-anglers.com.
There are some fine courses on Phuket and golf junkets bring vacationing expats and international tourists alike.
• The best course on is the Banyan Tree Club & Laguna, 34 Moo 4, Srisoonthorn Road, at the Laguna Resort Complex on Bang Tao Bay (Tel. 0 7627-0991; fax 07632-4351), a par-71 championship course with many water features (greens fees: 2,900B/$71; guests of Laguna resorts receive a discount).
• The Blue Canyon Country Club, 165 Moo 1, Thepkasattri Road, near the airport (Tel. 0 7632-7440; fax 07632-7449; www.bluecanyonclub.com), is a par-72 championship course with natural hazards, trees, and guarded greens (greens fees: from 2,900/$71).
• An older course, the Phuket Country Club, 80/1 Vichitsongkram Rd., west of Phuket Town (Tel. 0 7632-1038; fax 07632-1721; www.phuketcountryclub.com), has beautiful greens and fairways, plus a giant lake (greens fees: 2,400B/ $59).
A romantic and charming way to see Phuket’s jungles and beaches is on horseback.
Phuket Riding Club, 95 Viset Rd., Chaweng Bay (Tel. 0 7628-8213), and Phuket Laguna Riding Club, 394 Moo 1, Bangthao Beach (Tel. 0 7632-4199), welcome riders of all ages and experience levels and can provide instruction for beginners and children. Prices start at 500B ($12) per hour.
Phang-Nga Bay National Park, a 11⁄2-hour drive north of Phuket (3 hr. by boat) hosts great day-trips by sea kayak. The scenery is stunning, with limestone karst towers jutting precariously from the water’s surface, creating more than 120 small islands. These craggy rock formations (the backdrop for the James Bond classic, The Man with the Golden Gun) look like they were taken straight from a Chinese scroll painting. Sea kayaks are perfect for inching your way into the many breathtaking caves and chambers that hide beneath the jagged cliffs. All tours include the hour-plus rides to and from Pha Nga, the cruise to the island area, paddle-guide, kayak and lunch. The company to pioneer the cave trips is Sea Canoe (main office in Phuket Town, P.O. Box 276, Muang Phuket 83000; Tel. 0 7621-2252; www.seacanoe.net). They’re much imitated, but still the best choice for day trips through island caves to central lagoons (called “Hongs”). The standard day trip runs 2,970B ($73) per person. It’s touristy and you’ll be sitting two to an inflated boat and be paddled by a guide going in and out of the caves (frustrating if you like to actually paddle), but the scenery is great and the caves are stunning (and there’s free time for paddling on your own later). They also offer multiday and more adventurous “self-guided” tours.
The folks at Paddle-Asia (53/80 Moo 5, Thambon Srisoonthon, Thalang, Phuket, 83110 Tel. 0 7631-1222; fax 07631-3689; www.paddleasia.com) make Phuket their home and do trips throughout the region, with a focus more on custom adventure travel, not day junkets. They have great options for anyone from beginner to expert and on any trip you’ll paddle real decked kayaks, not inflatables. A highlight is their trip to Khao Sok National Park (see “Day Trips from Surat Thani,” in chapter 7), a 3-day adventure in which you’re sure to see some amazing jungle wildlife. In Phuket they can arrange offshore paddling to outlying islands, kayak-surfing on Kata beach or any custom adventure ranging as far as Laos.
In selecting a company, be sure they are certified with PADI. Many of the storefront operations are just consolidators for other companies (meaning you get less quality care and pay a fee to a middle-man) so ask if they have their own boats and make sure you’ll be diving with the folks you meet behind the counter. Also check about the ratio of divers to instructor or Dive-master; anything more than 5 to 1 is not acceptable and more like 2 to 1 for beginner courses. Below are a few of the best choices in Phuket.
• The folks at Scuba Cat (94 Thaweewong Rd. Patong; Tel. 0 7629-3120; www.scubacat.com) have got the best thing going in Phuket. With some 10 years’ experience, a large expatriate staff and their own fleet of boats, it’s a very professional outfit offering the full range of trips for anyone from beginner and expert (and at competitive prices). You can’t miss the small practice pool in front of their beachside Patong office (in fact, you have to cross a small bridge to get in the place), and the staff is very helpful and welcoming.
• Fantasea Divers is another reputable firm on Phuket. Their main office is at Patong Beach at 219 Rat-U-Thit Rd. (Tel. 0 7634-0088; fax 07634-0309; www.fantasea.net). Dive packages include live-aboard trips to the Burmese coast and 4-day PADI certification courses in addition to full-day dives around Phuket.
• Sea Bees Diving (1/3 Moo 9, Viset Road, Chalong Bay; Tel. and fax 07638-1765; www.sea-bees.com) is another good outfit offering day trips.
• Dive Master’s EcoDive 2000 has mostly live-aboard trips and with a focus on education and marine biology. Contact 75/20 Moo 10, Patak Road, Chalong (Tel. 0 7628-0330).
• Dive Asia (P.O. Box 70, Kata Beach, Phuket 83100; Tel. 0 7633-0598) offers all similar services, dive training, day trips, and live-aboard trips.
In the smaller bays around the island, such as Nai Harn Beach or Relax Bay, you’ll come across some lovely snorkeling right along the shore. For the best coral just off the shoreline, trek up to Haad Nai Yang National Park for its long reef in clear shallow waters. Nearby Raya Island is popular and many venture further to the Similan Islands or Koh Phi Phi. The best times to snorkel are from November to April before the monsoon comes and makes the water too choppy. Almost every tour operator and hotel can book day trips by boat that include hotel transfers, lunch, and gear for about 1,000B ($25) per person.
To experience the wild side of Phuket’s interior, try a rainforest trekking journey through the Khao Phra Thaew National Park. Phuket Nature Tour takes small groups through 3.5km (21⁄4 miles) of jungle paths past waterfalls and swimming holes. A typical half-day excursion includes hotel transfers, English-speaking jungle guides, and drinks. Call tel. 0 7625-5522.
Then there’s elephant trekking, a perennial favorite for children, and a great time for adults too. Elephants are not indigenous to Phuket so what you get here is more-or-less a pony ride, but arguments over captive elephant tour programs aside, the kids dig it (and the elephants do better here than when paraded around city streets for owners to collect coins). Siam Safari Nature Tours coordinates daily treks on elephants, Land Rovers, and river rafts. Their three-in-one Half-Day Eco-Adventure includes 4 hours of elephant treks through jungles to rubber estates, Jeep tours to see local wildlife, and a light river rafting journey to Chalong Bay. A full day tour is the three-in-one plus a trek on foot through Khao Pra Thaew National Park and a Thai lunch. Siam Safari’s office is at 70/1 Chaofa Rd. in Chalong (Tel. 0 7628-0116; www.phuket.com/safari). Siam Adventures (60/4 Rat-u-thit Rd. Patong Beach; Tel. 0 7634-1799) arranges similar adventures and is a leader in Phuket.
The crystal blue waters of the Andaman Sea near Phuket are an Old Salt’s dream. Every December Phuket hosts the increasingly popular King’s Cup Regatta, in which almost 100 international racing yachts compete. For more information check out: www.kingscup.com. There are more and more options for chartering yachts in Phuket. Contact Thai Marine Leisure for details (c/o Phuket Boat Lagoon, 20/2 Thepkasatri Rd., Tambon Koh Kaew, Phuket 83200; Tel. 0 7623-9111; www.thaimarine.com) or Sunsail Asia Pacific (Phuket Boat Lagoon, 20/5 Moo 2, Thepkrasattri Rd., Phuket 83200; Tel. 0 7623-9057; www.sunsail.com).
The Jungle Bungy Jump awaits. If you have the nerve to jump out 50m (150 ft.) over the water, call their “Bungy Hotline” at tel. 0 7632-1351. They’re in Kathu near Patong. They charge 1,400B ($34) per jump.
Open daily from 10am to 4pm, admission is free, but donations are accepted and appreciated. The Phuket Aquarium at the Phuket Marine Biological Center seeks to educate the public about local marine life and nature preservation. Unfortunately most of the signs throughout are in Thai (very disappointing). Open 8:30am to 4pm daily, admission is 20B (50¢). Call tel. 0 7638-1226 for more information. The Butterfly Garden and Aquarium, Soi Phaniang, Samkong, Phuket Town
If you’ve come to Phuket to escape and relax, there’s no better way to accomplish your goal than to visit one of Phuket’s spas. Even the smallest resort now offers full spa services (of varying quality) and you can find good, affordable massage along any beach and in storefronts in the main tourist areas. For luxury treatments, the most famous and exclusive facility here is The Spa at the Banyan Tree Phuket (see its listing earlier). In secluded garden pavilions you’ll be treated regally and may choose from many types of massage, body and facial treatments or health and beauty programs. To make reservations call tel. 0 7632-4374 (ww.lagunaphuket.com/spa). Expect to pay for the luxury—figure at least 2,000B ($49) per individual treatment.
Another high-end resort in the furthest southeast of the island, Evason, makes for a great day-spa experience. They are a full-featured five-star with all the trimmings and their spa is renowned (similar to Banyan Tree’s prices). They’re at 100 Vised Rd. Rawai Beach, Phuket 83130 (Tel. 0 7638-1010; fax 07638-1018; www.sixsenses.com). Let’s Relax is a more affordable little day-spa in and among many similar services (some a bit dodgy really but this one is okay) just off of Patong (Rat-uthit Rd.; Tel. 0 7634-0913). One-hour Thai massage begins at 350B ($8.50).
Patong Beach is the center of handicraft and souvenir shopping in Phuket and the main streets and small sois are choc-a-bloc with storefront tailors, leather shops, jewelers, and ready-to-wear clothing boutiques. Vendors line the sidewalks selling everything from batik clothing, T-shirts, pirated CDs, local arts and handicrafts, northern hill-tribe handicrafts, silver, and souvenir trinkets. Vendors everywhere in Patong have the rotten habit of hassling every passerby.
The prices are inflated compared to Bangkok or other tourist markets in Thailand but some hard bargaining can get you the right price. Many items, northern handicrafts for example, are best if purchased closer to the source, but if this is your only stop in Thailand, everything is cheap compared to the West and you can in fact stock-up with all the goodies for friends and family. There are a few boutiques in Phuket Town: try Ban Boran Antiques (24 Takuapa Rd.; Tel. 0 7621-2473), or The Loft (36 Thalang Rd.; Tel. 0 7625-8160).
From the huge billboards and glossy brochures, Phuket FantaSea , the islands premiere theme attraction, seems like it could be touristy and ridiculous. Surprise—it is!! But it’s fun in the same way Atlantic City can be fun. Phuket FantaSea is a big theme park with a festival village lined with glitzy shops, games, entertainment and snacks. A wander here will keep you busy until the show starts. They serve a huge buffet in the palatial Golden Kinaree Restaurant and then visitors proceed to the Palace of the Elephants for the show. Frankly, the shopping is expensive and the dinner is not too good (you can buy a ticket for the show only, no dinner), but the big spectacle is incredibly entertaining and very professional. There are rumors that the elephants are drugged so they can endure the fireworks, also that the show is just stage-one of what will be a huge casino. The in-your-face advertising for the place alone is enough to put you off (trucks driving around town with loudspeakers and there are posters on anything flat) but it’s worth a trip. Many places include transport in the price of the ticket. The show is at Kamala Beach, north of Patong, on the coastal road. Call tel. 0 7627-1222 for reservations. The stage is dark on Thursdays. The park opens at 5:30pm; the buffet begins at 6:30pm and the show at 9pm. Tickets for the show are 1,000B ($25) for adults and 750B ($18) for children, while dinner and transfer fees usually add 500B ($12) for adults and 300B($7) for children.
Ask about the rates at any hotel concierge, they often have deals.
Phuket also has a resident cabaret troupe at Simon Cabaret, 100/6-8 Moo 4, Patong Karon Rd. (Tel. 0 7634-2011). There are shows at 7:30 and 9pm nightly; the cost is 600B ($15); they’re on the south end of Patong. It’s a featured spot on every planned tour agenda that draws busloads. This glitzy transsexual show caters mostly to Asian tourists and lip-sync numbers of popular Asian pop songs keep the audience roaring. It can be a lot of fun. In between the comedy are dance numbers with pretty impressive sets and costumes.
Scruffy Murphy’s (Tel. 0 7629-2590), along the main strip in Patong, is the obligatory beachside Irish pub with only a few scruffy ones wandering about, mostly young U.K. tourists revving up to make a night of it and a good place to get started of an evening. There are a few discos in town: just ask around to find out what’s going on.
The best time to visit the Krabi area is November through April, with January and February the ideal months. The rainy season runs May through October; it’s wet nearly every day and many businesses are closed.
There are boat and bus connections between Krabi and Phuket. Krabi Town and nearby beaches are convenient to Phuket and connect via Surat Thani with the east coast islands (Samui, Pha Ngan).
By Plane Thai Airways flies at least twice daily from Bangkok (Tel. 0 2535-2084). Air Andaman has a daily flight via Phuket (Tel. 0 2251-4905 Bangkok reservations). From the airport you can catch a minivan to town for 60B ($1.50), more for further beaches. Taxis start at 300B ($7.30).
By Boat Thrice-daily trips leave from Koh Phi Phi to Krabi (trip time 2 hr.; 200B/$4.90). There are two daily boats from Koh Lanta to Krabi in the high season (trip time: 21⁄2 hr.; 150B/$3.40).
By Bus Two air-conditioned VIP 24-seater buses leave daily from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 2435-1199; trip time: 12 hr.; 710B/$16) to Krabi Town. Frequently scheduled air-conditioned minibuses leave daily from Surat Thani to Krabi (trip time: 23⁄4 hr.; 150B/$3.40). Three air-conditioned minibuses leave daily from Phuket town to Krabi (trip time: 31⁄2 hr.; 200B/$4.55).
There’s a small branch of the TAT on the north end of the esplanade along the river in Krabi Town (Tel. 0 7561-2740). Check in the small shops around town for a copy of the local free map of the resort area, town and surrounding islands.
Most services in Krabi town are on Utarakit Road, paralleling the waterfront (to the right as you alight the ferry). Here you’ll find the TAT Office (Tel. 0 7562-2163) and a number of banks with ATM service. The post office and police station (Tel. 0 7563-7208) are located south on Utarakit Road, to the left as you leave the pier. There are a few banks in Ao Nang, near the Phra Nang Inn.
Krabi Town is the commercial hub in the area, but few stay. There is frequent songtao (pickup truck) service between Krabi Town and Ao Nang beach; just flag down a white pickup (the trip takes 30 min. and costs 20B/50¢).
Raillay Beach is not an island but is cut off by its high cliffs from the mainland and reached only by boat: from the pier in Krabi Town for 80B/$2 (45 min.) or from the beach at Ao Nang (at the small pavilion across from the Prah Nang Inn) for 50B ($1.20) (just 20 min.).
Khlong Mouang beach is some 25km (16 miles) from Krabi Town. Expect to pay at least 250B ($6) for a taxi. If booking-in at any resort, ask about transport arrangements (often included).
For non-climbers, the beaches of Raillay are also worth the trip. Be sure to make your way to Prah Nang Beach, a secluded section of sand that is either a short 20B (50¢) boat trip from Raillay proper or a cliffside walk east, past Rayavadee resort and south along a shaded cliffside path (watch for monkeys). Masseuses and salespeople will hassle you here, but not too bad. Right offshore you can swim (sometimes walk) to Happy Island (I never found out what is “happy” about it), and don’t miss Prah Nang Cave, a small crevice at the base of a tall cliff and much revered. The cliffs are stunning and the sunsets spectacular.
It’s also along the path to Prah Nang Beach that you’ll find the secluded lagoon at Raillay; look for signs pointing up a small cleft in the rocks and come prepared for a short hike up a steep escarpment before a treacherous, wet, muddy down-climb (with some old fray ropes to guide) to a shallow, salty lagoon. Keep an eye out for monkeys. This is an adventurous little jaunt but fun.
There are some dive operators, but it’s a better idea to save your money and time for Koh Phi Phi or Phuket—from Krabi you’ll have to travel farther to reach the better sites. Day kayak tours to outlying islands or the mangroves near Ao Luk are becoming popular for visitors to Ao Nang. Contact Sea, Land and Trek Co.
(21/1 Moo 2, Ao Nang; Tel. 0 7563-7364) or Sea Kayak Krabi (40 Maharach Soi 2, Krabi; ' 07563-0270). Rates begin at 1,500B ($37).
Few stay in Krabi Town, but if you’re stuck or too tired, the best is Krabi City Seaview Hotel (77/1 Longkha Rd.; Tel. 0 7562-2885) with basic air-conditioned rooms starting at 500B ($12). There are also a number of small guesthouses in town.
Rayavadee Rayavadee is one of the finest resorts in Thailand. Handsome two-story rounded pavilions are large and luxurious, offering every modern convenience and utmost privacy—first-floor sitting areas have a central, hanging lounger with cushions and second- story bedrooms are all silk and teak and private bathrooms have big Jacuzzi tubs and luxury products. The resort grounds lie at the base of towering cliffs on the islands most choice piece of property, a triangle of land where each point accesses the islands beaches: Phra Nang, Nam Mao and Raillay. Central dining is excellent and only overshadowed by the more romantic and relaxed atmosphere of their seaside Thai restaurant, Raitalay. The Sheraton group runs the resort and the staff is thoroughly professional and friendly. The overall ambience is that of a peaceful village with paths meandering among private lotus ponds and meticulous landscaping (you won’t be bothered by meandering tourists). The sunsets at the big, beautiful pool at beachside or on Raillay Beach itself are sensational. Resort staff cover all services here, even arrange rock climbing and day trips, and offer transfer to and from Krabi Town by private speedboat (and a small tractor will ferry you to the resort doorstep at low tide). The price is high, but the location, luxury and privacy is unique.
214 Moo 2, Tambol Ao Nang, Amphur Muang, Krabi 81000 (30 min. northwest of Krabi Town by long-tail boat or 70 min. from Phuket on the resort’s own launch).Tel. 0 7562-0740. Fax 07562-0630. 100 units. 35,000B ($853) deluxe pavilion; 41,000B ($1,000) hydro-pool pavilion; 51,000B ($1,243) family pavilion; from 146,000B ($3,560) specialty villas. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge and library; outdoor pool with children’s pool; outdoor lighted tennis courts; air-conditioned squash court; fitness center; spa w/massage; Jacuzzi; sauna; watersports equipment and scuba center; concierge; 24-hr. room service; massage; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.
Sand Sea Resort Just down the beach from Rayavadee’s pool area along Raillay beach (great sunsets from here), Sand Sea is a good little bungalow haven along this busy beachfront. Flowering bushes surround putting-green lawns and bungalows line the garden paths. Rooms have air-conditioning and offer the comfort of your average hotel room (many opt to open the screened windows and turn on the room fan though). They’re just completing a pool and they have a good restaurant right on the busy beach. Step right out front and join a game of soccer or rent a kayak and travel around the craggy coast. The staff is a bit aloof, but all you need are the keys to your cozy bungalow; the area is yours to enjoy and explore.
39 Moo 2, Raillay Beach, Ao Nang, Krabi 81000 (on western-facing Raillay beach, long-tails from Ao Nang pull up on shore out front). Tel. 0 7562-2170. Fax 07562-2608. www.krabisandsea.com. 68 units. 900B–1,350B ($22–$33) double w/fan; 1,900B–2,100B ($46–$51) double w/A/C. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; watersports rentals (kayaks); tour desk; mini-mart; massage; laundry service. In room: A/C (some), TV, minibar, fridge, no phone.
Diamond Cave Resort Okay, “resort” is pushing it a bit here, but it’s not uncommon to use the term loosely at island properties in the south. The hallmark of Diamond Cave is their clean, cozy, tile-floor bungalows set in shady rows in a little suburban neighborhood, each with a small, shaded veranda.
Their adjoining “Private Resort” has a small pool, but the affordable bungalows are the best choice and a nice place to escape the vagaries of life and enjoy some nearby climbing. It’s at the far end of Raillay Beach East and far from the good sandy beaches, but cozy. It’s in and among lots of budget dining and beach bars and there’s an adjoining mini-mart and open-air restaurant.
36 Moo 1, Ao Nang Krabi (north end of Raillay East Beach).Tel. 0 7562-2589. Fax 07562-2590. 32 units. From 500B ($12) double. MC,V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; tour desk; mini-mart; laundry. In room: no phone.
Ao Nang Villa The best standard on Ao Nang beach, the calculated cool of Ao Nang Villa is unique in the area. It is a fine collection of semi-luxe rooms at poolside and has an inviting, listless atmosphere but can be a bit insular, even sterile (hard to believe you’re in Ao Nang). It’s quiet though and well away from the busy road. The modern, colonnaded walkways, open-plan lobby and laidback pool areas are peaceful if a bit studied and rooms are similarly comfortable though unremarkable.
113 Moo 2, Ao Nang, Krabi (east of the main strip in Ao Nang). Tel. 0 7563-7270. Fax 07569-5072. www.aonangvilla.com. 157 units. 3,500B–3,900B ($85–$95) double; from 4,200B ($102) suite. AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; 2 outdoor pools; Jacuzzi; sauna; tour desk; car-rental desk; shopping arcade; limited room service; massage; laundry. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.
Golden Beach Resort Comparable service and standards as the nearby Phra Nang Inn (see below), the Golden Beach’s deluxe rooms are a slightly higher standard, the pool is large and inviting and the resort is just a short hop down a cul-de-sac and away from busy, central Ao Nang. Their free-standing, pagoda suites make masterful use of curved lines inside and out and feature luxurious canopy beds and indoor/outdoor bathrooms. Standard rooms are cozy.
254 Moo 2, Ao Nan, Krabi 81000 (the east end of Ao Nang, down a dead end at beachside behind the boat pavilion for trips to Raillay).Tel. 0 7563-7870. Fax 07563-7875. 66 units. 4,500B ($110) double; from 6,000B ($146) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; large outdoor pool; tour desk; car-rental desk; limited room service; massage (poolside); laundry. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, IDD phone.
Krabi Resort The Krabi Resort is the only property in Ao Nang with direct beach access. It is a compound of two hotel blocks and an array of freestanding beachside bungalows. Tidy grounds surround a fine swimming pool but other resort amenities are unused and aging. More private sea view bungalows are the best choice: large and clean with parquet floors, high ceilings, rattan furnishings and lots of little Thai touches. It’s just north of the main shopping and restaurant area at Ao Nang, but a lovely beach walk. Ask about their overnight trips to rustic bungalows on nearby Poda Island.
53-57 Patthana Rd., Ao Nang Beach, Krabi 81000 (overlooking beach at Ao Nang).Tel. 0 7563-7051. 75 units. 4,600B–6,100B ($112–$149) bungalow priced according to view; 4,000B–8,800B ($98–$215) suite. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; pool; outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center; watersports equipment; bike rental; tour desk; limited room service; massage; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.
Phra-Nang Inn The outside of the eccentric Phra-Nang Inn looks like a rustic woodland lodge, built with pine and palms, with papasans (those round comfy sink-in chairs) arranged overlooking central gardens. Inside, the rooms are more or less an upscale guesthouse standard but furnished in a unique mix of Chinese tiles, concrete furnishings built into the walls, seashell and stucco mosaics and a twisted wood canopy bed hung with strands of shells. Even the bathroom is odd, with concrete and slate built-in shower and vanity. The hotel’s two wings are on either side of the busiest intersection in Ao Nang (where the beachfront road turns inland toward Krabi Town) but oriented away from the road to private courtyards, one forming a U around a tiny pool and restaurant area. You’re right in the thick of it here though and the helpful staff can help arrange tours and onward boat travel (from right across the street).
119 Ao Nang Beach (P.O. Box 25), Krabi 81000 (overlooking beach at Ao Nang-Raillay boat dock).Tel. 0 7563-7130. Fax 07563-7134. 88 units. 2,700B–4,000B ($66–$98) double; from 5,000B ($122) suite. DC, MC, V.
Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; small pool; spa w/massage; sauna; tour desk; Internet; 24-hr. room service; laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV w/in-house movies, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.
Ao Nang has lots of budget guesthouses to choose from. The friendly folks at J. Mansion (302 Moo 2, Ao Nang; Tel. 0 7569-5130) have clean, air-conditioned rooms starting at 350B ($8.50) with satellite TV and safety box.
Following the coast north of the busy Ao Nang strip you’ll come to quiet Klong Muang. The Sheraton is the centerpiece of the area, but there are a few budget spots as well as the soon-to-open NaKaManda (Tel. 0 7562-8200), an ultra-luxury getaway under construction at the time of this writing.
155 Moo 2, Baan Khlong Mouang Beach, Nong Talay, Krabi 81000 (15km/9miles north of Ao Nang, 26km/16miles from Krabi Town). Tel. 0 7562-8000. Fax 07562-8028. www.sheraton.com. 246 units. 10,600B–11,700B ($260–$285) double; 24,000B ($588) suite. AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; outdoor pool; tennis court (shoe and racket rental available); fitness center; spa w/massage; Jacuzzi; sauna; sailboat and kayak rental (no motorboats); mountain bike rental; kids’ club; library area w/games, video and Internet; tour desk; car-rental desk (Avis); shopping arcade; babysitting; 24–hr. room service; laundry; nonsmoking rooms; meeting facilities. In room: A/C, satellite TV, dataport, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe, IDD
phone.
Andaman Holiday Resort Just up the beach from the Sheraton, the Andaman Holiday is a cozy alternative at a fraction of the price (okay, and a fraction of the luxury). Rooms are large and clean, a range from older chain hotel-style rooms to small bungalows and large family suites that are more rustic lodge than resort. There is a good central pool and a large garden area near the sea. The beach is a wide, open stretch of sand and often deserted. The lobby is an exposed timber pavilion and the grounds invite meandering and offer cool shaded rest areas. Hotel services are limited but adequate (a long ride to any alternative).
98 Moo 3, Klong Muang Beach, Tambon Nongtalay, Krabi 81000 (16km/10miles north of Ao Nang, 27km/17miles from Krabi Town). Tel. 0 7562-8300. Fax 07564-4320. www.andamanholiday.com. 116 units. 4,600B–5,200B ($112–$127) double; from 5,800B ($141) suite. AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; 2 outdoor pools; small fitness center (open-air); tour desk (scuba trips); car-rental desk; shopping; salon; massage; laundry. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, IDD phone.
Apart from the good dining choices at the many resorts listed above, there are no restaurants worth mentioning in or around Krabi. Everywhere you go, you’ll find small storefront eateries and tourist cafes though. In the north end of Krabi Town, the Night Market just off Utarakit riverside road on Maharaj Soi 10 has good local specials like deep fried oysters and Pad Thai. Many of the stalls have signs in English (you’ll find great desserts and fresh fruit here too). In Ao Nang, the little beachside tourist street will likely grow-up to be like Patong in nearby Phuket and is well on the way. There are lots of neon-lit shops and storefront eateries: Try Ao Nang Cuisine for good Thai fare or any of the small beachside eateries. On Raillay, all of the bars and bungalows on Raillay beach serve good Thai and Western.
Smaller Phi Phi Lei is south of the main island and famed for its coveted swallow nests and the courageous pole-climbing daredevils who go get them (the nests fetch a hefty price for the making of a gourmet Chinese soup). The smaller island is protected as a natural park but is visited as part of most day trips. There are a number of comfortable resorts on busy Phi Phi Don (among the many budget spots) and some new offerings accessible only by boat on more desolate stretches of the island. Small beachfront outfits rent snorkel gear and conduct long-tail boat tours to quiet coves with great views of coral reefs and sea life for as little as 500B ($12) for an all-day trip (packing your own lunch). Many trips now include stops at “The Beach” at Makan Island where the popular film was shot. You can rent kayaks and do a little exploring on your own, hike one of the island viewpoints or just enjoy the sea and sand on busy Tonsai Bay. Small backpacker bars at the island center rock late into the evening. Party on!
Pee Pee Island Village This is the top choice among the islands more far-reaching resorts. You’ll need to get here by boat, a 30-minute ride (they have regular shuttles and arrange pickup from the ferry pier), but you’ll be glad that you did; it’s a quiet little beachfront campus of deluxe, raised bungalows all quite large and comfortable with big private balconies and designer, open-plan bathrooms done in stone and tile (shower only). This is a popular choice for families and young couples/honeymooners and even a few backpackers blowing the budget for a few days. There is a deluxe new spa in a separate area high on a hill, a large new pool, fine dining, shopping and a mini-mart and good tour programs and scuba school; all very self-contained which is essential here because, apart from a few nearby jungle walks, there’s nowhere to go. The beachfront at high tide is lovely and sunset is inspiring. Phuket Office: 89 Satoon Rd. Phuket 83000 (in Loh Ba Kao Bay in the NE end of the island, 30 min. by longtail boat).Tel. 0 7621-5014. Fax 07621-4918. www.ppisland.com. 100 units. 6,000B–7,300B ($146–$178) double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; 2 outdoor pools; spa w/massage; Jacuzzi; sauna; scuba school; watersports rentals; tour desk; courtesy boat transport to main beach area; Internet service; babysitting, laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, no phone.
Phi Phi Island Cabana Hotel A bit removed from the busy island center, the Cabana hotel offers the full services you might expect on the mainland and is popular for Scandinavian groups. The hotel also supports a small area of rustic cabanas where visitors can stay for very little and enjoy the main hotels large, central pool and fine dining choices, but cozy, carpeted hotel-style rooms are the best choice and have ornate furnishings, shaggy carpets, nice balconies (some overlooking the pool and beach) and small but rather deluxe bathrooms done in granite tile with good amenities. Resort services are extensive and the place is a veritable beehive in high season, so plan ahead.
PP Princess Resort Right in the heart of the main isthmus on the busiest island beach, PP Princess features anything from cozy bungalows to more deluxe hotel-style rooms and even high-end suites. Bungalows are tidy with wood floors, colorful paintings, light and airy bathrooms and small porches out front with unique Adirondack chairs. They’ve adapted the resort to fit the small area of the busy isthmus and everything feels a bit cramped really, bungalows stacked in tight rows, but it’s a comfortable standard throughout and the small black tile pool is luxe for the island and located on the second floor of a small pavilion with spa services and poolside dining (crowded but cozy). The lobby is an elegant open-air affair with a small fountain and staff snaps-to when not completely overrun (the Princess is a group tour favorite).
103 Phi Phi Island, Krabi 81000 (on the central isthmus on the beach opposite the ferry port).Tel. 0 7562-2079. Fax 07561-2188. (In Phuket: 2/39 Montri Rd.; Tel. 0 7621-0928). www.ppprincess.com. 110 units. 2,600B–3,500B ($63–$85) double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; outdoor pool; spa w/massage; watersports rentals; tour desk; Internet; shopping arcade; salon; limited room service; laundry. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe.
Charlie Beach Resort Bright bungalows at beachside are the hallmark of old Charlie’s place. There is also a range of basic rooms in a larger hotel block and little else, but little need for much else. Contact them ahead of time to reserve one of the better seaside units: Stick your toes in the sand and put the hammock up, you’ll want to stay for a while. The location is on the quieter end of the isthmus, furthest from the pier to the east (right). Eat out.
104 Moo 7, Phi Phi Island, Krabi 81000.Tel. 0 7562-0595. Fax 07562-0615. www.ppcharlie.com. 111 units. 900B–1,900B ($22–$46) double. MC, V. Amenities: Small restaurant; bar; tour desk; Internet; laundry.
In room: A/C, TV, some with safe.
Dining at your resort of choice is best on Phi Phi, but there are fried rice and noodles joints aplenty in the maze of streets near the central beach and all the bars blaring DVD movies serve affordable eats. Near the pier you’ll find seafood buffets with the catch-of-the-day sold by the pound and cooked to order; among them, try Mama Restaurant (Tel. 0 7562-2456) for good seafood and Thai as well as pizza that’s a step-up from the bread with ketchup you’ll find elsewhere.
PP Bakery has good sandwiches, cakes and cheap Thai and is always full. You’ll also find a few little Halal food stands and vendors with wheeled carts making southern-style sweet roti with banana (yes, the obligatory “banana pancake” but they are pretty tasty). Once a Muslim village, Phi Phi now parties into the night at places like The Rock (a small hilltop restaurant and guesthouse) or Rolling Stoned and, of course, the famous Reggae Bar, an old standby (the atmosphere, the name, and the dredlocked clientele all toking-up might suggest it’s okay, but there are frequent busts).
Scuba diving is quite popular too and Aquanauts Scuba, among other fullservice, professional outfits, offers anything from day trips to multi-day adventures as well as all the requisite PADI course instruction. Their office is a short walk to the right as you alight the ferry (Tel. 0 7421-2640).
Rock climbing, though not quite as popular as at nearby Krabi’s Raillay Beach (see earlier in this chapter), is quite good on Phi Phi, with a few dynamic routes just a short walk from the ferry pier and even some climbs where you’ll start from a boat in a quiet bay. Contact K.E. Hand Out Rock Climbing near Carlito’s Bar not far from the pier (mobile tel. 0 1979-2642). A half-day course is 800B ($20) and a full day is 1,500B ($36) and includes guides, lessons, and lunch.
About 70km (43 miles) SE of Krabi Small Muslim fishing villages dot the east coast of Lanta Yai (Big Lanta) and carry on with their traditional economy, ignoring the rolling cement trucks and bang-bang of bungalow building hammers over on the west coast. You’ll have to cross Lanta Noi (Small Lanta) to get to the main beach areas of Lanta Yai and, apart from luxury Pimalai, an island unto itself on the southern coast, accommodation on the island is backpacker basic. But living is slow and for that often “simple is best” as they say. Some stretches of beach are rocky and good swimming is only at a few choice sites in the south, but this is a good off-the-track choice if you’re getting fed-up with trafficked trails and tour groups in Phuket and nearby Krabi.
 |
| Map of Koh Lanta |
Minivans from Krabi town and Trang make connections to Lanta (cost is from 150B/$3.65 for bus/boat/bus door-to-door). To get to the beaches along the west coast of Lanta Yai, you’ll make two ferry crossings: one from the mainland to Lanta Noi (Small Lanta), then across the island by car before another ferry to Lanta Yai (Big Lanta). Most transport stops in the small town of Saladan near the ferry pier on the northern tip of Lanta Yai. Minibuses stop at tour agencies to try and coax you into this resort property or that for a small fee (not a bad choice really). From Saladan, it’s pickup truck ride free of charge to the resort of your choice (whether you book with them or not, it’s part of the minivan fee). Contact Kanokwan Tour (Lanta office: Tel. 0 7568-4419 or Krabi office: ' 07563-0199) to make arrangements.
There are chartered boat options from Krabi Town or even Phuket and Phi Phi in the high season (see individual chapters for private boat charter information) and Pimalai Resort (see below) arranges luxury boat transport when booking.
99 Moo 5, Ba Kan Tiang Beach, Lanta Yai Island, Krabi 81150 (on the far SE coast of Lanta Yai).Tel. 0 7560-7999. Fax 07560-7998. www.pimalai.com. 86 units. 10,500B–14,500B ($256–$354) double; 20,000B–30,000B ($488–$732) pavilion suite; 25,000B–60,000B ($610–$1,463) beach villa. AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; pool; spa w/massage; Jacuzzi; watersports rentals; mountain bike rentals; dive center; library w/good book selection; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine transfer; business center w/Internet; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV (some with CD and DVD players), fridge, minibar, safe, IDD phone.
Apart from pricey Pimalai Resort and Spa (see above), accommodation along the west coast of Lanta is catch-as-catch can with basic bungalows starting as low as 300B ($7.30; keep an eye out for new hotels). Moonlight Bay Resort, (69 Moo 8, Klongtob; Tel. 0 7568-4401), is typical of the few good bungalow resorts and offers basic accommodations and services starting at about 1,200B ($29).
“Shhh...” You heard it here, but don’t tell anybody. Tiny Trang is where it’s at if you’re looking for a real Thai style beach in the south. Trang city is the capital of this large province, an area ripe for exploration and replete with national parks and lots of wide-open spaces. Most tourists head first for Ha Pak Mieng Beach, then to outlying islands by ferry. Day snorkeling tours are a ball and affordable and the scenery is much like nearby Krabi without as many tourists.
The main beach at Ha Pak Mien, a long stretch, is crowded with Thai tourists, especially on weekends and holidays, and is a great place to meet locals (though not a particularly beautiful beach).
 |
| Map of Trang |
Trang city is connected by train with Bangkok on the main north south line. Two daily departures make the 16-hour trek. Ask for details at Bangkok’s Hua Lampong Station (Tel. 0 2223-7010 or 1690), and there are frequent buses from Bangkok’s Southern Bus terminal (Tel. 0 2434-7192) and mini-bus connection from Krabi and Surat Thani. When you arrive in Trang, connect by mini-bus with Ha Pak Mieng for 50B/$1.22 (a 30-min. ride). Ferry boats to the outlying islands leave regularly all day from the pier on the north end of the beach. It costs 500B ($12) for an all-day tour by boat (including lunch), and they can drop you off at any number of islands (Koh Ngai, Koh Mook, or Koh Kradung). Try Chao Mai Tour (Tel. 0 7521-4742) but just one among many at the port or contact any of the hotels below and they can help with arrangements.
Amari Trang Resort The overall effect of this newly opened resort is a fine harmony with nature: water flows here, light reflects from pools there. The pool is huge, the rooms are well-appointed and everything is new and efficient.
A find.
Changlang Beach, Trang 92150.Tel. 0 7520-5888. Fax 07520-5889. www.amari.com. 70 units. 4,100B ($100) superior double; 6,150B ($150) suite. AE, V, MC. Amenities: 2 restaurants, bar, outdoor pool, spa, fitness-center, kayak and bicycle rental, tour desk, limited room service, same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, fridge, minibar, safe, IDD phone. Near the Amari is the Pakmeng Resort (60/1 Moo, Tumbol Maifad, Trang; Tel. 0 7527-4111), rustic but cozy and quiet in a grove near the concrete sea-wall: a mangrove oasis. Rooms are from 350B to 1,400B ($8.50–$34).
On the islands, go for Charlie Beach Resort on Koh Mook (Tel. 0 7521-7671 or 07520-3281), affordable but cozy starting at 1,400B ($34).
