Southern Peninsula:
The East Coast & Islands
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Map of Southern Peninsula: The East Coast & Islands
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Thailand’s slim Malay Peninsula extends 1,250km (777 miles) south from Bangkok to the Malaysia border at Sungai Kolok. The towns of Cha-Am and royal Hua Hin are just a short hop south of Bangkok, and the ancient temples of Phetchaburi, the last outpost of the Khmer Empire, are a good day trip from there. Passing through coastal towns like Prachuap Kiri Khan and Chumpon, heading further south you come to Surat Thani, a popular jumping-off point for islands in the east: Koh Samui, Koh Pha Ngan and Koh Tao. If the beach resorts of Phuket dominate the tourist landscape on the west coast, so too, Koh Samui, a developed but laid-back resort island in the Gulf of Siam, dominates the east. Nearby Koh Pha Ngan, famed for it’s wild full-moon parties, is gaining prominence as a rustic resort destination as is Koh Tao for its access to some of Thailand’s best dive sites. With its fine islands and beaches, the Gulf of Siam is the Thai paradise of legend and, whether armed with little money and lots of time or lots of money and little time (it’s always one or the other, no?), there’s an adventure and/or a little bit of heaven for everyone among palm-draped beaches, lacy coral reefs, or in small mainland towns, Muslim fishing villages, and even Buddhist temples that welcome foreign spiritual seekers.
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| Map of Hua-Hin and Cha-Am |
Hua Hin is 265km (165 miles) S of Bangkok; 223km (138 miles) N of Chumphon Cha-Am is240km (140 miles) S of Bangkok; 248km (154 miles) N of Chumphon Hua Hin and Cha-Am, neighboring towns on the Gulf of Thailand, are together the country’s oldest resort area. Developed in the 1920s as a relaxing getaway for Bangkok’s elite, the beautiful seaside of “Thailand’s Riviera” was a mere 3 or 4 hours’ journey from the capital by train, thanks to the southern railway’s completion in 1916. The royal family was the first to embrace these two small fishing villages as the perfect location for both summer vacations and health retreats.
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| Hua Hin |
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| Cha Am |
In 1924, King Vajiravudh (Rama VI) built the royal Mareukatayawan Palace amid the tall evergreens that lined these stretches of golden sand. At the same time, the Royal Hua Hin Golf Course opened as the first course in Thailand. As Bangkok’s upper classes began building summer bungalows along the shore, the State Railways opened the Hua Hin Railway Hotel for tourists, which stands today as the Hotel Sofitel Central, and to this day the King of Thailand spends much of his time at his regal residence just north of town (note the constant presence of coast guard cutters and battleships just off shore). When Pattaya, on Thailand’s eastern coast, hit the scene in the 1960s, it lured vacationers away from Hua Hin and Cha-Am with promises of inexpensive holidays with spicier nightlife. Since then, Pattaya’s tourism has grown to a riotous, red-light din and quiet Hua Hin and Cha-Am are a good alternative for relaxing getaways and health retreats. The clean sea and beaches support some unique resorts, and nearby Phetchaburi (see “Side Trips from Hua Hin & Cha-Am” later in this chapter) is a fascinating and easy day trip to experience a bit of Thai history and culture. Plan your trip for the months between November and May for the most sunshine and least rain, but note that from about mid-December to mid-January, Hua Hin and Cha-Am reach peak levels and bookings should be made well in advance (at a higher rate). Low season means more rain, but not all day long.
By Plane While there is a domestic airport in Hua Hin, no airlines have serviced it for years.
By Train Both Hua Hin and Cha-Am are reached via the train station in Hua Hin. Ten trains make the daily trek from Bangkok’s Hua Lampong Railway Station (Tel. 0 2223-7010 or 1690). For an idea of the fare, a second-class seat from Bangkok to Hua Hin is 262B ($6.40). The trip is just over 4 hours. The Hua Hin Railway Station (Tel. 0 3251-1073) is at the tip of Damnoenkasem Road, which slices through the center of town straight to the beach. Pickup truck taxis (songtao) and tuk-tuks wait outside to take you to your hotel starting at 50B ($1.10).
By Bus Most agree that the bus is the better choice for travel from Bangkok to Hua Hin because it takes less time. Buses depart from Bangkok’s Southern
Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 2434-7192) every 20 minutes from 5am to 10pm (128B/$3.12). There are also 5 daily buses to Cha-Am between 5am and 2pm (113B/$2.75). Buses from Bangkok arrive in Hua Hin at the air-conditioned bus station (Tel. 0 3251-1230) on Srasong Road, 1 block north of Damnoenkasem Road. From here it’s easy to find a songtao or tuk-tuk to take you to your destination.
The Cha-Am bus station is on the main beach road (Tel. 0 3242-5307). Mini-buses can be arranged at any hotel or travel agent in either Bangkok or Hua Hin. Regular minivan departures leave from the traffic circle at Bangkok’s busy Victory Monument (a stop on the BTS skytrain) and cost 140B ($3.40).
By Car From Bangkok, take Route 35, the Thonburi-Paktho Highway, southwest and allow 2 to 4 hours, depending on traffic.
The annual King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament comes to Hua Hin each September. Teams from as far away as Europe and Sri Lanka Play 3-a-side polo, much like equine polo only with longer mallets on a smaller field. Sponsored by the TAT at Anantara Resort & Spa (Tel. 0 3252-0250 see “Where to Stay,” below), the event raises money for the National Elephant Institute. There are parades and events but the pachyderms out on the pitch are the highlight.
Despite all the tourist traffic, Hua Hin is easy to navigate. The main artery, Petchkasem Road, runs parallel to the waterfront about 4 blocks inland. The wide Damnoenkasem Road cuts through Petchkasem and runs straight to the beach. On the north side of Damnoenkasem toward the waterfront, you’ll find a cluster of guesthouses, restaurants, shopping, and nightspots lining the narrow lanes. Across Petchkasem to the west are the bus terminals, railway station, and night market. Smaller Cha-Am is a 25-minute drive north of Hua Hin along Petchkasem
Road. Ruamchit Road, also known as Beach Road, hugs the shore and is lined with shops, restaurants, hotels, and motels. Cha-Am’s resorts line the 8km (5-mile) stretch of beach that runs south from the village toward Hua Hin.
By Songtao Pickup truck taxis (songtao), follow regular routes in Hua Hin, passing the railway station and bus terminals at regular intervals. Flag one down that’s going in your direction. Fares range from 10B to 20B (25¢–50¢) within town, while stops at outlying resorts will be up to 50B ($1.20). Trips between Hua Hin and Cha-Am cost between 100B and 200B ($2.43–$4.90).
By Tuk-Tuk Tuk-tuks rides are negotiable, as always, but expect to pay as little as 20B (50¢) for a ride within town.
By Motorcycle Taxi Within each town, motorcycle taxi fares begin at 20B (45¢). The taxi drivers, identifiable by colorful numbered vests, are a good way to get to your resort if you’re in Cha-Am after hours (about 100B/$2.43).
By Samlor Trishaws, or samlors can be hired for short distances in town (from 20B/50¢). You can also negotiate an hourly rate.
By Car or Motorcycle Avis has a desk at both the Hotel Sofitel Central in Hua Hin (Tel. 0 3251-2021) and the Dusit Resort and Polo Club in Cha-Am (Tel. 0 3252-0008). Budget has an office at the Grand Hotel (Tel. 0 3251-4220). Self-drive rates start at 1,500B ($37). Call ahead to reserve at least 1 day in advance. Cheaper alternatives can be rented from stands near the beach on Damnoenkasem Road. A Suzuki Caribian goes for around 1,000B ($24) per day. 100cc motorbikes are available for 200B ($4.90) per day. On Foot Hua Hin is a labyrinth of busy streets and narrow alleys with little guesthouses, colorful local bars, and a wide assortment of casual eating venues. Most everything in town is accessible on foot.
The Hua Hin Tourist Information Center (Tel. 0 3251-1047 or 03251-367) is in the center of town tucked behind the city shrine at the corner of Damnoenkasem and Petchkasem roads. Opening hours are from 8:30am to 4:30pm daily. In Cha-Am, the TAT office (Tel. 0-3251-3885, 0-3251-3871, 0-3251-3854) is inconveniently located on the corner of Phetchkasem Road and Narathip Road (the main Beach Road is about 1km/2⁄3-mile away). There are lots of free local event calendars and maps.
IN HUA HIN All major banks are along Petchkasem Road to the north of Damnoenkasem, and there are many money changers throughout the town. The main post office (' 03251-1350) is on Damnoenkasem Road near the Phetchkasem intersection. Both Hua Hin and Cha-Am have Internet cafes along the more-traveled shopping streets. The Hua Hin Hospital (Tel. 0 3252-0371) is located in the north of town along Petchkasem Road. Call the Tourist Police for either town at tel. 0 3251-5995.
IN CHA-AM Banks are centered along Phetchkasem Road, and the post office is on Beach Road. The Thonburi Cha-Am Hospital (Tel. 0 3243-3903) is off Narathip Road. Internet access is available in a few places along the beach road.
The stunning Khmer-style temples of Phetchaburi (see “Side Trips from Hua Hin & Cha-Am” at the end of this section) are the most significant cultural sites near Hua Hin and Cha-Am, but really what attracts so many to this area is what first attracted the Thai royal family: proximity to the capital, lovely beaches, watersports and activities like golf and scuba, even horseback riding. Hua Hin supports fine resorts with services from great spa treatments to dining, golf and many sporting activities.
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| 80-year-old Sofitel Hotel |
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| Mareukatayawan Palace |
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| Mareukatayawan Palace |
One of the most important in-town sites is the 80-year-old Sofitel Hotel originally built for Thai royals and their guests. Visitors are welcome to wander the lush grounds amid the grand colonial buildings and fun topiary (don’t miss the giant elephant). High Tea at the Sofitel is perhaps the most high-brow cultural thing you could do in Hua Hin and highly recommended. For just 370B ($9) you can sip tea and nibble scones and desserts from a splendid array and get downright lazy and colonial in a quaint garden-side area, the lobby of the original hotel. The buffet (open daily 3:30–5pm) and atmosphere are well worth-it. Don’t miss the town’s Night Market (on Decha Nuchit Rd. on the northern end at town center), which is busy from dusk to late with small food stalls and vendors. There are also lots of shops in and around the central beachfront and Hua Hin, not unlike most resort areas in Thailand, is a good place to get that suit made or buy your brother a Buddha. The big Buddha and viewpoint from spiky Khao Takiap, or the Chopstick Peaks, a small cape just a few clicks south of Hua Hin (hop a tuk-tuk for 50B/$1.20) is a pretty area worth a visit. Also near Hua Hin is the Mareukatayawan Palace, or the Teakwood Mansion (daily 8:30am–4pm, free admission). Built and designed in 1924 by King Rama VI, it served for many years as the royal summer residence, and is now open to the public. See “Side Trips from Hua Hin & Cha-Am” at the end of this section for trips to natural sites.
Chiva-Som International Health Resort Chiva-Som is a new beginning for many. One of the finest high-end health resorts in the region, this ultrapeaceful campus is a sublime collection of handsome pavilions, bungalows, and central buildings dressed in fine teak and sea-colored tiles nestled in landscaped grounds just beyond a pristine beach. But what brings so many to Chiva Som are their spa programs: From Chi Gong to chin-ups, muscle straining to massage, a stay at Chiva Som is a chance to escape the workaday world and focus on development of body and mind. Leave the kids at home, turn-off the cell-phone, and change the suit for loose-fitting cotton because, whether just to relax or to start a new chapter in life, a visit to Chiva Som is proactive. Upon check-in, you’ll fill out an extensive survey, have a brief medical check and meet with a counselor who can tailor a program to fit your needs, goals and budget or package you have booked (there is a wide range). From there, guests might focus on early-morning yoga, stretching and tough workouts, or go for gentle massages, aromatherapy, even isolation chambers and past-life regression workshops.
The choices are many and personal trainers, staff and facilities are unmatched in the region. The resorts spa cuisine is not all granola and oats, but simple, healthy fare and there is a nice bond that develops between guests and staff in weekly barbecues and frequent mocktail parties. The spa treatments are fantastic: don’t pass-up their signature Chiva-Som Massage. Day spa visitors welcome.
73/4 Petchkasem Rd., Hua Hin, 77110 Thailand (5-min. drive south of Hua Hin).'03253-6536. Fax 03251-1615. www.chivasom.net. 57 units. All double rates are quoted per person. Contact the resort directly about spa and health packages. 14,150B ($345) ocean-view double; 16,400B ($399) pavilion; from 24,400B ($595) suite. Nightly rate includes 3 spa cuisine meals per day, health and beauty consultations, daily massage, and participation in fitness and leisure activities. Contact the resort about other packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 1 ozonated indoor swimming pool and 1 outdoor swimming pool; golf course nearby; amazing fitness center w/personal trainer and exercise classes; his-and-hers spas w/steam and hydrotherapy
treatments, massage, beauty treatments, floatation, medical advisement; watersports equipment; bike rental;
library; concierge; tour desk; limousine service; salon; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.
Anantara Resort and Spa A series of elegantly designed Thai-style pavilions usher you through the public areas at this “village” just north of Hua Hin. A lovely Kaliga tapestry hangs prominently in the open-air sala-style lobby, which is tastefully decorated with ornately carved teak wooden lanterns, warm wood floors, and oversize furniture with Thai cushions. The Lagoon is an area of teak pavilions surrounded by lily ponds and from the hotels most luxurious rooms you can hear chirping frogs and watch buzzing dragonflies from wide balconies.
Other rooms cluster around a manicured courtyard. Consistent with the lobby, rooms are furnished Thai style with teak-and-rattan furniture. Superior rooms have a garden view and deluxe rooms overlook the sand and sea. Beach terrace rooms have large patios perfect for private barbecues. Jr. Suite rooms have enormous aggregate bathtubs that open to guestrooms by a sliding door. Fine dining options are many and the resort’s spa is large and luxurious. The Anantara holds
the annual Elephant Polo in Hua Hin, an event gaining worldwide attention.
43/1 Petchkasem Beach Rd., Hua Hin 77110.Tel. 0 3252-0250. Fax 03252-0259. 197 units. 6,800B–7,600B ($165–$185) double; 8,400B ($205) terrace double; suite from 9,000B ($220). AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; lounge; outdoor pool with children’s pool; outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center; spa w/sauna, steam, massage; Jacuzzi; water-sports equipment and instruction; bike and motorcycle rental; children’s playground; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe.
Hilton Hua Hin Resort and Spa Right in the heart of downtown Hua
Hin, this massive tower overlooks the main beach. It’s a Hilton, which means a fine room standard and courteous staff. The marble lobby with quiet reflection pools is welcoming, the beachside pool is luxurious and everything is well-maintained and sparkling clean. A top international standard and the best location for strolling the main beach area, in-town shopping and nightlife.
33 Narsdamri Rd., Hua Hin 77110 (on the main beach and in the heart of downtown shopping) tel. 0 3251-2888. Fax 02250-0999. www.huahin.hilton.com. 296 units. 6,800B–8,400B ($165–$205) double; from 10,400B ($255) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; outdoor pool; 2 tennis courts; health club; spa w/massage, Jacuzzi, sauna, steam; concierge; tour desk; car-rental; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr room service; laundry and dry cleaning; babysitting. In room: A/C, satellite TV w/in-house movies, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
Hotel Sofitel Central It is one of the towns main sites really. The Hua Hin Railway Hotel opened in 1922 and is the classiest, most luxurious accommodation going. There’s a cool, calm colonial effect to the whitewashed buildings, shaded verandas and walkways, fine wooden details, red-tile roofs and immaculate gardens with topiaries. There is a small hotel museum of photography and memorabilia, and the original 14 bedrooms are preserved for posterity. Subsequent additions and renovations over the years have expanded the hotel into a large and modern full-facility hotel without sacrificing a bit of its former charm.
The original rooms have their unique appeal, but the newer rooms are larger, brighter, and more comfortable. With furnishings that reflect the hotel’s old beach resort feel, they are still modern and cozy. Sofitel’s three magnificent outdoor pools are finely landscaped and have sun decks under shady trees. The new Spa Health Club, in its own beachside bungalow, provides full-service health and beauty treatments, and the fitness center is extensive. The adjoining Central Hua Hin Village (Tel. 0 3251-2021) is now under Sofitel management and features luxurious private bungalows (41 in total) at seaside.
1 Damnoenkasem Rd., Hua Hin 77110 (in the center of town by the beach).Tel. 800/221-4542 in the U.S., or 03251-2021. Fax 03251-1014. www.sofitel.com. 214 units. 6,150B–7,050B ($150–$171) double; from
9,700B ($237) suite. DC, MC,V. Amenities: 5 restaurants; lounge and bar; 3 outdoor pools; putting green and miniature golf; golf course nearby; outdoor lighted tennis courts; new fitness center; spa w/massage; water-sports equipment; bike rental; kids’ club; daily craft and language lessons; nature tours; billiards room; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
Hua Hin Marriott Resort and Spa From the giant swinging couches in the main lobby to the large central pavilions, the hotel is done in a grand, if exaggerated, Thai style. The Marriott seems to attract large groups, but is good for families. Ponds, pools, boats, golf, tennis, and other sport venues dot the junglelike grounds leading to their open beach area. There is a good kids’ club. The hotel is relatively far from the busy town center and provides shuttle service. Deluxe rooms are the best choice—large, amenity filled, and facing the sea. Terrace rooms at beachside are worth the bump up. The spa is luxurious too.
107/1 Petchkasem Beach Rd., Hua Hin 77110.Tel. 800/228-9290 in the U.S., or 03251-1881. Fax 03251-2422. 216 units. 6,400B ($97) double; 7,300B–8,800B ($178–$214) beach terrace; from 14,300B ($349) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; outdoor pool; golf course nearby; outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center; spa; water-sports equipment; bike rental; children’s playground and zoo; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe.
PP Villa Tile entries, parquet floors in basic rooms with balcony close to the central beach and shopping are the hallmarks of PP Villa. It’s not the Ritz, but it is comfortable. The staff is super friendly and there’s a pool.
11 Damnernkaseam Rd., Hua Hin 77110 (near the central beach area and shopping). Tel. 0 3253-3785. Fax 03251-1216. 52 units. 1,000B–1,200B ($24–$29). V, MC. Amenities: Restaurant, outdoor pool, laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.
Sirin Hotel An okay place for a simple, moderately priced room, Sirin is basic but clean and comfortable. The hotel is in the center of town, convenient to dining and shopping options, with its own little al fresco restaurant for light meals. Guest rooms are pretty decent size, with carpeting and matching motel-style furnishings—nothing luxurious here, but well kept, each with a balcony.
Damnoenkasem Rd., Hua Hin 77110 (on the main street near the town beach).Tel. 0 3251-1150. Fax 03251-3571. 25 units. 1,500B ($37) double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; small outdoor pool; golf course nearby; motorcycle rental; limited room service; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.
Along the quiet stretch between Hua Hin and Cha-Am, there are a number of fine resorts (and a growing number of condos). Cha-Am village itself is a bit raucous (the Ocean City, NJ to Hua Hin’s Hamptons) and most stay outside of town; for in-town lodging though, try the Methavalai below.
Dusit Resort and Polo Club A “Polo Club” in theme only, the Dusit has all the amenities of a fine resort. The elegant marble lobby features bronze horses, hunting-and-riding oil paintings and hall doors have polo mallet handles and other equine themed artwork and decor. Guest rooms carry the same theme and are spacious with big marble bathrooms. Room rates vary with the view, although every room’s balcony faces the lushly landscaped pool. Ground floor rooms are landscaped for privacy with private verandas leading to the pool and the beach. Suites are enormous with elegant living rooms, full pantry area, and dressing area. For all its air of formality, the resort is great for those who prefer swimsuits and T-shirts to riding jodhpurs and a relaxed holiday air pervades. All sorts of water-sports are available on the quiet beach. It’s a bit far from both Hua Hin and Cha-Am but the resort is completely self-contained.
1349 Petchkasem Rd., Cha-Am 76120. Tel. 0 3252-0009. Fax 03252-0296. www.dusit.com. 300 units. 5,500B–6,000B ($134–$146) double; from 12,000B ($293) Landmark suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 5 restaurants; lounge; huge outdoor pool; mini-golf; golf course nearby; outdoor lighted tennis courts; squash courts; fitness center; Jacuzzi; sauna; equestrian center and horseback riding; watersports equipment; bike and motorcycle rental; billiards and game room; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
The Cha-Am Methavalai Hotel The Methavalai is the best of the rag-tag collection in busy Cha-Am town. Large, clean and on the main Beach Road in Cha-Am, it’s convenient to the restaurants, shopping, and small nightlife scene in town. Guest rooms are painted from a pastel palette and are peaceful, all with balconies and sun deck and clean but not luxurious bathrooms. Rooms look out over the good-size central pool (front-facing rooms can be a bit noisy though). If you want to stay in downtown Cha-Am, this is the best choice of the lot.
220 Ruamchit Rd., Cha-Am 76120. Tel. 0 3247-1028. Fax 03247-1590. www.methavalai.com. 118 units. 3,000B–3,500B ($73–$85) double; from 6,000B ($146) suite. AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge and karaoke; pool; golf course nearby; tour desk; salon; limited room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.
The Regent Cha-Am No relation to the Regent chain, the Regent Cha-Am is a sprawling property, the combination of three resorts for a total of some 708 rooms (at the Regent Resort and more luxury Regency Wing and Regent Chalet). There are lots of services, large pools, watersports, squash and small fitness area. The main resort is a massive courtyard, and the Chalet is a separate, quieter bungalow facility (the best choice). Standard rooms are comfortable and affordable, done up like the average chain hotel but very clean and cozy. The resort is on the road between Hua Hin and Cha-Am and a long ride to either. Come with your own wheels or you are stuck. The Regent is busy year-round, mostly on the weekends.
849/21 Petchkasem Rd., Cha-Am 76120. Tel. 0 3245-1240. Fax: 03245-1277. www.regent-chaam.com. 708 units. 3,800B–4,200B ($93–$102) double; from 5,600B ($137) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants;
lounge; 3 pools; outdoor lighted tennis courts; squash courts; fitness center; Jacuzzi; watersports equipment; bike and motorcycle rental; game room; tour desk; limousine service; business center; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.
If you wake up at about 7am and walk to the piers in either Hua-Hin or Cha-Am, you can watch the fishing boats return with their loads. Workers sort all varieties of creatures, packing them on ice for distribution around the country. In both Hua Hin and Cha-Am, look for the docks at the very north end of the beach; nearby open-air restaurants serve fresh seafood at a fraction of what you’d pay in Bangkok. The Night Market, on Dechanuchit Road west of Phetchkasem Road in the north end of town, is a great place for authentic local eats for very little. The Resorts have more restaurants than there is room to list and no matter where you stay you’ll have great dining options in-house. In town there are lots of small storefronts eateries and tourist cafes as well.
Itsara THAI In a two-story seaside home built in the 1920s, this restaurant has a real laid-back charm, from the noisy, open kitchen to the terrace seating and views of the beach—quite atmospheric and a good place to get together with friends, cover the table with dishes and enjoy the good life. Specialties include a sizzling hot plate of glass noodles with prawn, squid, pork, and vegetables. A variety of fresh seafood and meats are prepared steamed or deep-fried, and can be served with either salt, chili, or red curry paste.
7 Napkehard St., Hua Hin (seaside, a 50B/$1.20 samlor ride north from the town center).Tel. 0 3253-0574. Reservations recommended Sat dinner. Main courses 60B–290B ($1.30–$6.50). MC, V. Mon–Fri 10am–midnight; Sat–Sun 2pm–midnight.
Meekaruna Seafood SEAFOOD This small family-run restaurant serves fresh fish prepared as you like. They’re located on a wooden deck overlooking the main fishing pier in Hua Hin and in among many other large seafood places. There are less flashing lights and no carnival barker out front to drag you in and such a lack of hype alone is refreshing. Naturally, a place like this has great tom yam goong—also try fried crab cakes, fish served in any number of styles, and my favorite, baby clams fried in chili sauce.
26/1 Naratdamri Rd., Hua Hin (near the fishing pier).Tel. 0 3251-1932. Main courses 120B–500B ($2.90–$12.20). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm.
Probably the most popular activity in Hua Hin and Cha-Am is golf and the town boasts some fine courses. Reservations are suggested and necessary most weekends. Many of the hotels run FOC shuttles and most clubs can arrange pickup and drop-off to any hotel.
• Royal Hua Hin Golf Course, Damnoenkasem Road near the Hua Hin
Railway Station (Tel. 0 3251-2475), is Thailand’s first championship golf course, opened in 1924. Don’t miss the many topiary figures along its fairways (greens fees: 1,200B/$29; open daily 6am to 6pm).
• Springfield Royal Country Club, 193 Huay-Sai Nua, Petchkasem Road, Cha-Am (Tel. 0 3247-1303), designed by Jack Nicklaus in 1993, is in a beautiful valley setting—the best by far (greens fees: 2,500B/$61).
• Palm Hills Golf Resort and Country Club, 1444 Phetchkasem Road, Cha-Am; (Tel. 0 3252-0800), just north of Hua Hin, Palm Hills, is a picturesque course set among rolling hills and jagged escarpments (greens fees: 1,200B/$29).
While most of the larger resorts will plan watersports activities for you upon request, you can make arrangements with small operators on the beach (for a significant savings). Most resorts forbid noisy jet skis, but the beaches are lined with young entrepreneurs renting them out for 500B ($12) per hour. Windsurfers and Hobie Cats are for rent at most resorts or with small outfits along the beach (starting at 300B/$7.30 and 600B/$15 per hr. respectively). Call Western Tours at tel. 0 3253-3303 and ask about their snorkeling trips to outer islands for about 1,500B ($37) per person. Their office is at 11 Damnoenkasem Rd. in the city center.
Hua Hin is famous for its fine spas and each of the top resorts (see “Where to Stay in Hua Hin,” earlier in this chapter) features excellent services. There are lots of small massage storefronts in Hua Hin, but this is a great place to go upscale and get the royal treatment. The best choice for a day of pampering is at Chiva Som (73/4 Petchkasem Rd., Hua Hin; 5-min. drive south of town; Tel. 0 3253-6536) where you pay a lot and get a lot. There’s nothing like it. Far south of town, luxury Evason Resort and Spa (9 Paknampran Beach, Pranburi 77220; 30km/19 miles south of Hua Hin; Tel. 0 3263-2111) is a destination spa worth visiting of itself, but also a fine stop for high-end day treatments.
Very atmospheric and comparable in quality with Chiva Som.
It’s a popular tourist town close to the country’s largest city and the result is all of the good shopping services you would find in Bangkok, from fine tailors and jewelers to souvenir shops. The day market along Damnoenkasem Road near the beach features local crafts made from seashells, batik clothing and many other handicrafts. At night the 2-block-long Night Market on Dechanuchit Road west of Phetchkasem Road is a great stop for tasty treats and fun trinkets.
For nightlife, your best bet is Hua Hin. A 15-minute stroll through the labyrinth of sois between Damnoenkasem, Poolsuk, and Deachanuchit roads near the beach reveals all sorts of small places to stop for a cool cocktail and some fun.
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| Phra Nakhorn Khiri |
Phetchaburi, one of the country’s oldest towns, possibly dates from the same period as Ayutthaya and Kanchanaburi, though it’s believed to have been first settled during the Dvaravati period. After the rise of the Thai nation, it served as an important royal military city and was home to several princes who were groomed for ascendance to the throne. Phetchaburi’s palace and historically significant temples highlight an excellent day trip. It’s just 1 hour from Hua Hin. The main attraction is Phra Nakhorn Khiri (Tel. 0 3242-8539), a summer palace in the hills overlooking the city. Built in 1858 by King Mongkut (Rama IV), it was intended as not only a summer retreat for the royal family, but for foreign dignitaries as well. Combining Thai, European, and Chinese architectural styles, the palace buildings include guesthouses and a royal Khmer-style chedi, or temple. The Phra Thinang Phetphum Phairot Hall is open for viewing and contains period art and antiques from the household. Once accessible only via a 4km (21⁄2-mile) hike uphill, you’ll be happy to hear there’s a funicular railway (called a “cable car,” but not really) to bring you to the top for 40B ($1). Open Monday through Friday 8:15am to 5pm and Saturday and Sunday from 8:15am to 5:50pm. The site is open daily from 9am to 4pm and admission is 40B ($1). Another fascinating sight at Phetchaburi, the Khao Luang Cave, houses more than 170 Buddha images underground. Outside the cave, hundreds of noisy monkeys descend upon the parking lot and food stalls looking for handouts. Sometimes you’ll find a guide outside who’ll escort you through the caves for a small fee.
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| Phra Ram Raja Nivesana |
Wat Yai Suwannaram is a stunning royal temple built during the Ayutthaya period. The teak ordination hall was moved from Ayutthaya after the second Burmese invasion on the city (don’t miss the axe-chop battle scar on the building’s carved doors). Inside there are large religious murals featuring Brahmans, hermits, giants, and deities. Another wat with impressive paintings is Wat Koh Keo Suttharam , also built in the 17th century. These representational murals, painted in the 1730’s, even depict some Westerners: There are several panels depicting the arrival in the Ayutthaya court of European courtesans and diplomats (including a Jesuit dressed in Buddhist garb).
Another fabulous wat is Wat Kamphaeng Laeng, originally constructed during the reign of Khmer ruler King Jayavaraman VII (1157–1207) as a Hindu shrine. Made of laterite, it was once covered in decorative stucco, some of which still remains. Each of the five prangs, or towers, was devoted to a deity—the center prang to Shiva and done in a classical Khmer style. During the Ayutthaya period, it was converted to a Buddhist temple. The temples of Petchaburi are best visited during daylight hours, from early morning until 5pm. Lastly, the Phra Ram Raja Nivesana, or Ban Puen Palace (Tel. 0 3242-8506; daily 8am–4pm, free admission), is a nice stop. A royal palace built by Rama V, the German-designed grand summer home comes alive with colorful tile work, neoclassical marble columns and floor motifs. Today it sits on military grounds and is a popular venue for ceremonies and large occasions.
Western Tours, 11 Damnoenkasem Rd. (Tel. 0 3253-3303), has day excursions for 700B ($16) per person and it’s a good day-trip by rented car.
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| KHAO SAM ROI YOT NATIONAL PARK |
Just 40 minutes drive south of Hua Hin, Khao Sam Roi Yot, or the “Mountain of Three Hundred Peaks,” is comparatively small in relation to the nation’s other parks, but offers great short hikes to panoramic views of the sea. There is abundant wildlife here (seen only if you’re lucky). Of the park’s two caves, Kaew Cave is the most interesting, housing a sala pavilion that was built in 1890 for King Chulalongkorn. For more information, call the park services at (Tel. 0 2561-2919). To arrange a tour, call Western Tours (Tel. 0 3253-3303; 700B/$16 per person). A half-day trip to the Pala-U waterfall close to the Burmese border (63km/39 miles west of Hua Hin) is another nature trekking option. Nature trails take you through hills and valleys until you end up at the falls. Western Tours does the trip for 900B ($22) per person. The driver can stop at the Dole Thailand pineapple factory for a tour and tasting (Tel. 0 3257-1177; daily 9am–4pm; 200B/$4.50 admission), and the Kaew Cave.
If you’ve had enough of Thailands many overdeveloped beach areas, the small town and beaches near Prachuap Khiri Khan (just a 1-hr. drive south of Hua Hin) might just be the answer. Some of the kindest people in Thailand live here, the beaches are lovely and little-used and the town begs a wander. There is little in the way of fine dining and accommodation, but it’s a good stop on the way south to Chumphon.
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| Map of Chumpon |
463km (287 miles) S of Bangkok; 193km (120 miles) N of Surat Thani There isn’t much of interest to travelers here in tiny Chumphon: just a brief stop on the way south and a good jumping-off point for Koh Tao, which offers some of the best scuba diving in Thailand. There is, however, a growing resort and diving area on the mainland Thung Wua Laem, 12km (71⁄2 miles) northeast of town. The town of Ranong straddles the Burmese/Thai border west of Chumphon and is a popular day-trip to enjoy the hot springs or a boat trip to Burma.
By Plane Air Andaman runs flights three times a week from Bangkok stopping in Chumphon then heading to Phuket. In Bangkok make reservations at tel. 0 2535-6231. For 80B ($1.80), you can catch a minivan into town.
By Train Ten daily trains stop in Chumphon from Bangkok. Book tickets through the Hua Lamphong Railway Station in Bangkok at tel. 0 2223-7010 or 1690. A second-class sleeper to Bangkok is 284B ($7). The Chumphon Railway Station is on Kromluang Road (Tel. 0 7751-1103), a wide thoroughfare lined with restaurants, hawkers, and guesthouses. A songtao or motorcycle taxi can bring you where you need to go for 20B to 40B (50¢– $1).
By Bus Four standard air-conditioned buses depart from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 2435-1199). The trip time is 7 hours and costs 425B ($10). The main bus terminal is far north of the town center (accessible by tuk-tuk for 80B/$2) and the in-town bus terminal on Thatapao Road (Tel. 0 7757-0294) is near many travel agencies but bus services here are infrequent.
By Ferry Songserm Travel Center runs the daily FerryLine service connecting Chumphon with Koh Tao, Koh Pha Ngan, Koh Samui, and Surat Thani. On Koh Tao, their office is at Mae Had Beach (Tel. 0 7745-6274); on Koh Samui in Nathon at (Tel. 0 7742-0157); in Surat Thani at (Tel. 0 7720-5418); in Chumpon (Tel. 0 7750-6205).
There is a Tourist Information Center on Paraminmankha Road in the city’s Provincial Hall, but better information is found at any of the tour operators in town. Try Kiat Travel (115 Thatapao Rd.; Tel. 0 7750-2127).
By Songtao (covered pickup truck) They cruise the main roads, and charge about 20B to 40B (50¢–$1) for rides.
By Motorcycle Taxi Look for the men in colored vests, and they’ll take you where you need to go for as little as 10B (25¢) a trip.
Chumphon is small enough to walk around easily. The main spots for travelers are Kromluang Road, running from the railway station, with dining options and cheap accommodations, and Thatapao Road, where there is a small bus terminal (another is out on the highway), as well as many tour operators.
Numerous banks are all on Saladaeng Road, running parallel to Thatapao. The main post office is outside of the town center and a bit hard to reach—I recommend posting from your hotel’s front desk. For Internet service, check around the Ocean Shopping Complex area, and inside the guesthouses and travel agencies along Kromluang Road. For police assistance call tel. 0 7751-1505.
Most people who come through Chumphon are on their way to Koh Tao, an island near Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand—a favorite destination for scuba divers (see the section later in this chapter for information on getting there).
For day trips, contact Kiat Travel (115 Thatapao Rd.; Tel. 0 7750-2127) or Ekawin Tours, (Kromluang Rd.; ' 07750-1821). There are sometimes local rafting trips and these agencies can put together tours to local waterfalls, caves and beaches or onward to Koh Tao or other islands in the Gulf of Siam. Some head out for the beaches near Chumphon, the nicest one being Thung Wua Laen Beach. See Chumphon Cabana Resort and Diving Center below.
Chumphon Cabana Resort and Diving Center Located on Thung Wua Laen Beach some 30 minutes from Chumphon town, Chumphon Cabana Resort is a basic bungalow resort, but a good spot for affordable fun in the sun. Both bungalow and hotel-style rooms are clean and nicely appointed but sparse. The folks here can organize windsurfing, sailing, and mountain biking, you can take trips to nearby coral reefs with their dive master, or you can just laze by the small outdoor pool. They have a good little restaurant dishing-up fine seafood.
69 Moo 8, Saplee, Pathui, Chumphon 86230. Tel. 0 7756-0245. Fax 07756-0247. 100 units. 1,400B ($32) double; 1,800B ($41) cottage. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; small outdoor pool; watersports equipment and dive center; bike rental; laundry service. In room: TV w/satellite programming, minibar.
Other basic in-town hotels include Suriwong Chumphon Hotel (Tel. 0 7751-1203) and Chumphon Palace Hotel (328/15 Pracha-Uthit; Tel. 0 7757-1715) near the new market at the town center. Basic rooms from just 250B/ $6).
Jansom Chumphon The best accommodation in town, Jansom Chumphon isn’t the Oriental, but it’s comfortable and reputable. Small rooms can stand some redecorating, but are still the more up-to-date choice in town.
118/138 Saladaeng Rd., Tambol Thatapao, Amphur Muang, Chumphon 86000.Tel. 0 7750-2502. Fax 07750-2503. 140 units. 450B–650B ($11–$16) double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; disco; tour information; limited room service; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar.
Though there’s nothing in the way of fine dining in Chumphon, there are lots of small storefronts serving good Thai and seafood, especially along Thatapao and Kromluang Road near the train station: try PaPa (Kromluang Rd.; Tel. 0 7751-1972), a popular, affordable seafood restaurant among them.
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| Map of Surat Thami |
Surat is known for its oysters, farmed in Ka Dae and the Tha Thanong Estuary (30km/18 miles south of town) where more than 6,475 hectares (16,000 acres) are devoted to aquaculture. Fallow rice paddies now support young hoi takram, or tilam oysters, which cling to bamboo poles submerged in brackish water. After 2 years they can be harvested; the summer months yield the best crop. Surat Thani’s other famed product is the Rong Rian rambutan (ngor in Thai), a fruit with a spiky rind hiding a sweet, pitted fruit not unlike lychee. In 1926, a breed of the spine-covered fruit grown in Penang was transplanted here and now more than 50,590 hectares (125,000 acres) of the Nasan district (40km/24 miles south of town) are devoted to plantations. Each August (the harvest is Aug–Oct) a Rambutan Fair is held, with a parade of fruit-covered floats and performances by trained monkeys.
( RESERVATIONS ) 24 HOURS
By Plane Thai Airways (in Bangkok : head office Tel. 02-545-1000 Tel. 0 2545-1000, contact center tel. 0 2356-1111, reservations 24 hours Tel. 0 2356-1111) has two daily flights from Bangkok to Surat Thani (trip time: 70 min.). If you’ve rolled into town on the morning train you can just hop on one of the travel agent buses to the ferry—either Songserm or Phanthip has buses waiting. Otherwise you can grab a shared minivan to town for 80B ($1.95). Thai Airways office is at 3/27–28 Karoonrat Rd. (Tel. 0 7727-2610, 0 7727-3710), just south of town.
By Train Ten trains leave daily from Bangkok’s Hua Lampong station (Tel. 0 2223-0341-8 or 1690) to Surat Thani (trip time: 13 hr.); second-class sleeper 468B ($11), second-class seat 288B ($6.55). The Surat Thani train station is very inconvenient, but minitrucks meet trains to transport you to town for 20B (45¢) shared ride.
By Bus Two VIP 24-seater buses leave daily from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal (Tel. 0 2434-5558,0 2435-1199 ; trip time: 10 hr.; 590B/$13). Air-conditioned buses leave daily from Phuket’s Bus Terminal off Phang-nga Road opposite the Royal Phuket City Hotel (Tel. 0 7621-1480; trip time: 5 hr.; 150B/$3.40). Also from Phuket, minivans travel to Surat Thani daily (trip time: 4 hr.; 160B/$3.65). Find them across from the Montri Hotel on Suthat Road. The Surat Thani Bus Terminal is on Kaset II Road a block east of the main road.
By Minivan The best way to travel between southern cities is by privately operated air-conditioned minivans. They are affordable and run regular schedules from Surat Thani to/from Chumphon, Ranong, Nakhon Si Thammarat, Hat Yai, and beyond. The best way to arrange these trips is to consult your hotel’s front desk. You can go door-to-door to the hotel of your choice, usually for little more than 100B ($2.45).
By Car Take Highway 4 south from Bangkok to Chumphon, then Highway 41 south direct to Surat Thani.
For information about Surat Thani, Koh Samui, and Koh Pha Ngan, contact the TAT office, 5 Talad Mai Rd., Surat Thani (Tel. 0 7728-8817-9), near the Wang Tai Hotel.
Surat Thani is built up along the south shore of the Tapi River. Talad Mai Road, 2 blocks south of the river, is the city’s main street, with the TAT office at its west end, and the bus station and central market at its east end. Frequent songtao run along Talad Mai; prices are based on distance but rarely exceed 20B (50¢).
FAST FACTS
Major banks along Talad Mai Road have ATMs and will perform currency exchanges. The Post Office and Overseas Call Office are together on Na Muang and Chonkasean roads near the center of town. The Taksin Hospital (Tel. 0 7727-3239) is at the north end of Talad Mai Road. The Tourist Police (Tel. 0 7728-1300) are with the TAT on Talad Mai Road.
Surat is a typical small Thai city and, for most foreign visitors, little more than a transportation hub to the islands (Samui and Pha Ngan). Most people will want to press on. If it is your only stop in Thailand (on the way to Samui for example), give the town a wander and see what Thai life is all about (go small streets and find a Wat). Those with an extra day or two may want to organize a visit to a local Monkey Training Center, where monkeys are taught how to harvest ripe coconuts, or to the small town of Chaiya and Suan Mokkh Monastery, a renowned Buddhist retreat with meditation study programs in English (see “Day Trips from Surat Thani” below).
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| Monkey Training College |
Wang Tai Hotel The best quality choice is a bit inconvenient, but only 25B (60¢) by tuk-tuk from the bus terminal or ferry company offices. This newer hotel tower features a coffee shop, where acceptable Thai food and good salads are served at tables overlooking the Tapi River and a pleasant pool and sun deck. There’s also a lobby cafe with coffee and pastries, for a quick bite while you’re running to catch your morning ferry to Samui. Spacious rooms are clean and comfortable, a great value for the money (rates vary according to view).
1 Talad Mai Rd., Surat Thani 84000 (south side of town near TAT).Tel. 0 7728-3020. Fax 07728-1007. 238 units. 950B–1,000B ($23–$24) double; from 2,000B ($48) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; pool; limited room service; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, IDD phone.
For years the Siam Thara (1/144 Donnock Rd.; Tel. 0 7727-3740) was a popular budget standby, but the place has gone down hill. It’s convenient to the bus station though and not bad in a pinch with rooms for as little as 350B ($8.50).
BJ Hotel Simple but clean tile rooms with small shower-in-room baths are what’s offered at this new block building just a short walk south and east of the town center. Staff can help with travel arrangements and there’s a small restaurant, but otherwise it’s just a place to lay your head, and a clean one at that.
17/1 Donnok Rd. Surat Thani 84000 (about 1km/2⁄3-mile south of the bus station and on a side-road east of central Talad Mai Rd.).Tel. 0 7721-7410. Fax 07721-7414. 72 units. 500B ($12). MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, fridge.
You can sample Surat Thanis famous oysters at any streetside cafe and there is a small cluster of open-air eateries along Talad Mai near the turn to BJ Hotel. In the north end of town near the bus station, Lucky’s Restaurant (452/84–85 Talad Mai Rd.; Tel. 0 7727-3267) has an open-air dining room and an air-conditioned hall, both filled with locals enjoying the inexpensive, well-cooked food. Pork curry with coconut milk, ginger, and peppers is a spicy but tolerable brew, and deliciously tender and the tom yam soups are delicious but spicy enough to take off paint unless you say “kaw, mai phet” (“not spicy, please”).
For a rustic, romantic evening, try the small bamboo sala of Good View Restaurant (across the main bridge from the colorful town pagoda; Tel. 07722-2583; daily 11am–1am). Just across the river and with a “good view” of river and the town, here they serve a host of tasty curries and the standard fried fare for very little. At night, it’s a popular karaoke haunt and if you can handle the music, it’s a good place to meet locals and laugh. (You will be pressed into singing something by the Beatles in short order though.)
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| Suan Mokkhabalarama |
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| Ajahn Buddhadasa, who founded Suan Mokkhabalarama, had passed away for 29 year age |
Day visitors are welcome at the main forest monastery where you can wander the many forest paths among monk’s “kutees” (small bungalows). Don’t miss the unique Spiritual Theater of didactic Buddhist imagery. The monastery is just south of the town of Chaiya, 50km (31 miles) north of Surat Thani on Highway 41; long-distance buses and minitrucks pass by the entrance throughout the day and can drop you off as requested and songtao (pickups) connect to and from Chaiya (you have to wave them down) for 20B (50¢).
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| Some of didactic Buddhist imagery in Spiritual Theater |
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| Chaiya National Museum |
Well-marked trails lead you through the park to central Rajprabha Dam and reservoir where you can go boating, rafting, and fishing among the limestone cliffs that act as islands in the swelling waters. The park office provides camping equipment and arranges accommodations in simple bungalows or bamboo huts. Guides will offer their services and help plan your itinerary.
One of the best ways to get up-close with the varied fauna of the park is by kayak along the nether reaches of the large reservoir. Jungle animals are skittish and your chances of seeing something rare by noisily tromping through the bush are slim at best. Kayaks are silent and get you deep into the bush where no paths tread and going by boat with a knowledgeable guide offers the best chances of sighting anything from black bears to large monkey troupes and even rare tapirs and sloths. Contact the folks at Paddle Asia in Phuket (53/80 Moo 5, Thambon Srisoonthon, Thalang, Phuket, 83110; Tel. 0 7631-1222; fax 07631-3689; www.paddleasia.com) for details.
The Park’s Natural Resources Conservation office (Royal Forestry Department, 61 Pahonyothin Rd., Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900; Tel. 0 2579-7223), or the TAT offices in Phuket Town or Surat Thani have good maps and info.
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| Map of Koh Samiu |
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| View of Koh Samui |
More than two million coconuts, reputedly the best in the region, are shipped to Bangkok each month—a massive island industry. Much of the fruit is made into coconut oil, a process that involves scraping the meat out of the shell, drying it, and pressing it to produce sweet oil. To assist farmers with Koh Samui’s indigenous breed of tall palm trees, monkeys are trained to climb them, twist loose the ripe coconuts, and gather them for their master. (See “Surat Thani,” above, and “What to See & Do,” below, for info on monkey training schools.)
By Plane Up to 17 flights depart daily from Bangkok on Bangkok Airways (Tel. 0 2265-5555 in Bangkok), pretty much one every 40 minutes between 6:20am and 7:20pm. Two daily flights from Phuket (Bangkok Airways Phuket office; ' 07622-5033), and another daily from the U-Tapao airport near Pattaya (Bangkok Airways Pattaya office; Tel. 0 3841-1965) connect these major beach destinations, with additional Bangkok airways flights connecting the northern cities through Bangkok. From Singapore, Silk Air (Tel. 0 2236-5301-3 in Bangkok) flies daily and Bangkok Airways (Tel. 0 7742-2512 in Samui) three or four times each week.
Koh Samui Airport is a little slice of heaven—open-air pavilions with thatch roofs surrounded by gardens and palms. For airport information call tel. 0 7742-5012. If you’re staying at a larger resort, airport minivan shuttles can be arranged when you book your room. There’s also a convenient minivan service. Book your ticket at the transportation counter upon arrival and you’ll get door-to-door service for 100B ($2.50). If you depart Koh Samui via the airport, there’s an additional 150B ($3.40) airport tax that’s usually added to your ticket charge.
If unable to book a flight directly to the island, Thai Airways operates two daily flights to the nearby mainland at Surat Thani (Tel. 0 2525-2084 for domestic reservations in Bangkok). From the airport, it’s a shuttle to the town of Surat Thani and then connecting ferry to the island (see Songserm Travel below).
By Ferry If you’re traveling overland, Songserm (Tel. 0 7728-7124 in Surat Thani) runs a convenient ferry loop from Surat Thani with stops in Koh Samui, Koh Pha Ngan and Koh Tao finishing at Chumphon (and back again). The total trip is about 4 hours, while the Surat-Samui leg is 2 hours. Rates are as follows:
Surat-Samui 150B ($3.65); Samui-Pha Ngan 100B ($2.45); Pha Ngan-Koh Tao 250B ($6.10); Koh Tao-Chumphon 400B ($9.75). The morning boat leaves at 8am. There are a number of smaller companies that make boat connection (also speedboats) but Songserm is the best.
Also from Surat Thani, you can arrange travel from Koh Samui Tour (346/36 Talat Mai; Tel. 0 7728-2352; can’t miss their sign just south of the bus station in Surat). They connect via a 75B ($1.80), 1-hour bus to Donsak and 2-hour, 160B (US$3.90) boat service to the island on a large ferry (a car and truck transport). At least eight boats make the trip each day. If you book ahead at a resort, most will arrange transport from the Samui ferry pier at Nathon to your hotel, otherwise songtao make the trip to most beaches on the east coast for as little as 30B (75¢) if they can get a packed truckload from the boat landing (and it can be very packed). If you have no accommodations booking, many will even make a few stops along the way so you can check a few places out before deciding.
Though Koh Samui is the country’s third-largest island, with a total area of 233 sq. km (90 sq. miles), its entire coastline can be toured by car or motorcycle in about 21⁄2 hours. The island is hilly, densely forested, and rimmed with coconut palm plantations. The Koh Samui airport is in the northeast corner of the island. The hydrofoils, car ferry, and express boats arrive on the west coast, in or near (depending on the boat) Nathon. The island’s main road (Hwy. 4169, also called the “ring road”) circles the island. Samui’s best beaches are on the north and east coasts. The long east coast stretch between Chaweng and Lamai beaches is the most popular destination for visitors and, consequently, where you’ll find the greatest concentration of hotels and bungalows. The south coast has a few little hideaways and the west coast has a few sandy strips, but few amenities for tourists.
Nathon, the aforementioned ferry arrival point on the west coast, is just a tiny town; here though, you’ll find a few banks, the TAT office and main post office but few visitors spend much time here.
Clockwise from Nathon, Mae Nam Bay is 12km (71⁄2 miles) from the ferry pier, at the midpoint of Samui’s north shore, facing nearby Koh Pha Ngan. The beach is narrow and long, with coarse sand and shaded by trees. The water is deep enough for good swimming (on some beaches the water is shallow unless you walk out very far). This bay is often spared the fierce winds that whip during the stormy months, making it popular during the winter. Mae Nam is relatively isolated, and there are a number of simple, charming beach bungalows on unpaved roads off Highway 4169, which offer some of the most secluded accommodations on the island. Ban Mae Nam, the commercial center, is just east of the Dusit Santiburi Resort, one of the best resorts on the island, and has several restaurants, laundries, shops, a medical clinic, and a gas station.
Bophut Beach, on the north coast just east of Mae Nam, is one of the island’s fastest developing areas. Unfortunately, Highway 4169 (the ring road) runs very close to the shore all along the sandy stretch. The presence of many small Thai restaurants, businesses, shops, and taxis creates a busier pace than is evident at other, more removed beaches. Bophut’s very long (usually crowded in the high season) sand beach narrows considerably in the monsoon season, but the water remains fairly calm year-round. The sand is coarse. Fisherman’s Village is the sign that marks entrance to the busiest area of Bophut where you’ll find cheap restaurants and guesthouses among a pier-side clutch of small houses and shops worth a wander.
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| Big Buddha Beach |
Koh Samui juts out at the northeastern tip in a rough, irregular coastline. Bold rock formations create private coves and protected swimming areas, though from mid-October to mid-December the monsoon whips up the wind and waves, creating a steep drop-off from the coarse sand beach and strong undertow. Tongsai Bay is a beautiful cove dominated by one resort; its privacy is a plus and a minus. While exclusively tranquil, it’s difficult to reach by cheap public transport.
Southeast of Tongsai Beach, at the foot of high, craggy cliffs, is the fine sand beach of Choeng Mon, a gracefully shaped crescent about 1km (2⁄3 miles) long. Palm trees shading sunbathers reach right to the water’s edge; swimming is excellent, with few rocks near the central shore. Across the way is Koh Fan Fa, a deserted island with an excellent beach. You can swim or, if the tides are right, walk there, but be careful of the rocks at low tide. Choeng Mon is isolated, but there are many small hotels and bungalows hidden in the hills and public minitruck service. The two Chaweng beaches (the main Chaweng and south Chaweng Noi) are undoubtedly the most popular destinations on Koh Samui. The benefits of Chaweng are the many tourist conveniences here: money changing, Internet, laundry, travel and rental agencies, medical facilities, shopping, restaurants, and nightlife, not to mention more choices for accommodations. Chaweng can be a blast if you don’t mind a little hustle and bustle. If you’ve come to get away from the familiar, from McDonald’s and Starbucks, Chaweng is to be avoided, but even if you don’t stay here, most visitors at least take a wander of an evening.
The beaches of Chaweng and Chawng Noi are by far the longest on the island. The more recently developed north end of the strip abutts rocky coast, but to the south the swimming is good (though a bit shallow near shore). The long sand beach on Lamai Bay is comparable to Chaweng’s, but caters more to the young backpacker set. There are a few comfy new resorts in and among the budget bungalows though and the wide range of services, cafes and nightlife make Lamai the best budget choice and a popular spot.
Laem Set Bay is a small rocky cape on Samui’s southeast coast, with dramatic scenery that has prompted the construction of a few well-known hotels. On the west coast, from Laem Phang Ka, one of Samui’s better beaches on the island’s southwest tip, the Highway cuts inland, heading north past Ban Taling Ngam and the cutoff running west to the car-ferry jetty. These beaches are the most isolated on the island, with few facilities to support resorts and waters filled with rocks, making the beaches barely swimmable. Many Thai families stop for picnics at Hin Lat Falls, a rather uninteresting, littered site 2km (11⁄4 miles) south of Nathon, which supplies the town with its drinking water.
The TAT Information Center is on Thawiratchaphakdi Road just north of the main fairy terminal in Nathon (Tel. 0 7742-0504). A good place to stop before you head out to the beach, they distribute, in addition to TAT pamphlets, the thin Accommodations Samui guidebook, a free booklet packed with information on hotel, dining, and activity options. You’ll find a host of free small-press magazines in Samui: Bangkok Airways produces the free Samui Guide, a color magazine with advertisements and information about the island; and What’s On Samui is similar (but different). Samui Dining Guide (www.samuidiningguide.com) lists the best restaurants on the island. You can also pickup any of a number of free maps with lots of adverts and info.
By Songtao Songtao are the easiest and most efficient way to get around the island. They advertise their destinations—to such beaches as Lamai, Chaweng, and Mai Nam—with colorfully painted signs and all follow Rte. 4169, the ring road, around the island. For many trips, you have to change trucks between north and south routes. You can hail one anywhere along the highway and along beach roads. To visit a site off the beaten track (or one other than that painted on a truck’s sign), ask the driver to make a detour. Most stop running regular routes after sundown, after which some will hang around outside the discos in Chaweng to take night owls home to other beaches. The cost is 30B to 40B (75¢–$1) one-way, with steep fares (up to 300B/$7) after hours.
By Rental Car Koh Samui’s roads are narrow, winding and poorly maintained with few lights at night to guide you. Road accidents are many and renting a car is a far-better idea than going on a motorcycle. Your defensive driving skills will be required to navigate around slow-moving trucks and motorcycles at the side of the road, not to mention the occasional wandering dog.
Budget Car Rental has an office at the Samui Airport. They rent a host of vehicles starting with Suzuki Caribians at just 1,500B ($37) a day. Contact them at tel. 0 7742-7188. Avis has an office at the Santiburi Dusit Resort (Tel. 0 7742-5031) and offers similar services and does pickup and delivery. Local rental companies and travel agents have great deals for car rentals, and while vehicles are sometimes a little beat up, they’re generally sound. Look for bargains as low as 700B ($17) per day, but don’t expect solid insurance coverage. Read all the fine print, and make sure, if you don’t have an international driver license, that your local license is acceptable under the agreement.
By Motorcycle Road accidents injure or kill an inordinate number of tourists and locals each year on Samui, mostly motorcycle riders; but still, two-wheels and a motor is still the most popular way to get around the island. The roads on Samui are busy so stay left and close to the shoulder of the road to make way for passing cars and trucks and go easy. Hot-shotting around the island, and there’s plenty going on, lands so many in the hospital or worse. It’s a 500B ($12.20) fine for not wearing a helmet (but enforced irregularly). Travel agencies and small operators rent motorcycles in popular beach areas. A 100cc Honda scooter goes for as little as 150B ($3.65) per day, while a 250cc chopper is as expensive as 700B to 900B ($17–$22) a day.
All the major banks are in Nathon along waterfront Thawiratchaphakdi Road. In Chaweng you’ll find numerous money-changers and ATMs: Try Krung Thai Bank’s (opposite Starbucks). Hotels and guesthouses also accept traveler’s checks. The main post office (Tel. 0 7742-1013) is on Chonwithee Road in Nathon, but you’ll probably not hike all the way back to the main pier for posting. Any hotel or guesthouse will handle it for you, and stamps can be purchased in small provision shops in beach areas. For Internet service, there are a number of options in Chaweng. Try the kind folks at Multi Travel and Tour (164/3 Moo 2 Chaweng; Tel. 0 7741-3969) among the many. Bandon International Hospital (Tel. 0 7742-5382) is a fine facility with English-speaking physicians who make housecalls. Located in the north of Chaweng. For tourist police emergencies dial tel. 07742-1281.
Busy Samui supports all kinds of activities, from scuba diving to bungee jumping, jungle trekking to cooking schools. Most folks come here for beach fun and frolic and you’ll find all kinds of activities, sailing, jet skis and parasailing among them, at beachside. Have a look at “Exploring Koh Samui” at the end of this section for more outdoor activities and happenings.
Na Muang Trekking (Tel. 0 7741-8681) is one of many small tour and trekking agencies arranging day-trips to the sites below; however self-drive, best by car rather than motorbike, will get you there just as easily. The gold-tiled Wat Phrayai (Big Buddha), more than 24m (80 ft.) tall, sits atop Koh Faan (Barking Deer Island), a small islet connected to the shore by a dirt causeway almost 305m (1,000 ft.) long. Though of little historic value, it’s an imposing presence on the northeast coast and is one of Samui’s primary landmarks. It’s open all day; a 20B (45¢) contribution is recommended. It’s easy to reach, just hop on any songtao going to Big Buddha Beach. You can’t miss it. Koh Samui’s famed Wonderful Rocks—the most important of which are the unique Hin Ta and Hin Yai, or Grandfather and Grandmother Stones, shaped like the male and female anatomy—are located at the far southern end of Lamai Beach. To get there, flag-down any minitruck to Lamai Beach.
The Mummified Monk at Wat Khunaram is certainly worth a visit if your bend is to roadside oddities. He died in the meditation mudra, legs folded lotus style, and he was embalmed that way; you can see him behind glass in a small pavilion at the right as you enter Wat Khunaram, itself a worthy example of a typical Thai town temple. At the entrance to the monks’ pavilion, a few coins are the cost of the resident monks blessing with water. Take off your shoes, smile, and kneel, and he will put water on your head and say a few good words for whatever it’s worth. The site is along the main road, Rte. 4169, as it shoots inland far south of Lamai. Just across Rte 4169 from the Wat Khunaram is the dirt track leading up to
Na Muang Falls, a pleasant waterfall once visited by many kings of the Chakri dynasty. After the rainy season ends in December, it reaches a height of almost 30m (100 ft.) and a width of about 20m (66 ft.). Na Muang is a steamy 5km (3-mile) walk from the coast road and makes for a nice bathing and picnic stop. You can even trek to the falls on the back of an elephant (contact the many agencies there).
For something a little more tranquil visit the Butterfly Garden (Tel. 0 7742-4020), off the 4170 Road near Laem Din on the southeast corner (daily 9am–5pm; adults 50B/$1.20, children 20B/50¢). Along Samui’s main roads, you’ll find little hand-painted signs along the lines of MONKEY WORK COCONUT. These home-grown tourist spots show off monkey skills involved in the local coconut industry—they’re trained to climb the trees, spin the coconuts to break them off their stems, and collect them from the bottom when they’re finished. The Samui Monkey Theater (Tel. 0 7724-5140) is just south of Bophut village on 4169 Road. Shows are a little more vaudeville than the “working” demonstrations—with costumes and goofy tricks—and are a lot more fun for kids than for adults. Show times at 10:30am, 2pm, and 4pm daily cost 150B ($3.35) for adults, 50B ($1.10) for children.
I defy you to find a Thai tourist spot without the requisite snake farm where young men harass dangerous snakes (many reputedly drugged, the snakes that is) and taunt audiences by catching the slithering animals in their bare hands (and sometimes their teeth). It’s a lot of laughs though to see the audience squirming in semi-amused horror. Samui’s snake farm is at the far southwest corner of the island on 4170 Road (Tel. 0 7742-3247), with daily shows at 11am and 2pm; tickets cost 250B ($6). Although there’s a cleared corral in every village around the island, buffalo fights now take place only on holidays. This equitable sport, popular in south Thailand, pits male water buffaloes in a contest of locked horns. Endurance, chutzpah, and brute strength determine the winner; the loser usually lies down or runs away. (Buffalo rarely hurt one another, though fans have been trampled!) Authorities have tried to curb gambling, but the event is still festive; shamans are called in to rile up the bulls, ribbons are hung around their necks, and buffalo horns are decorated with gold leaf. Contact the TAT office about when and where specific bouts will be held.
Twenty years ago there were but a few makeshift beachside bungalow compounds along the nearly deserted coast of Samui. Today, luxury resorts stand shoulder-to-shoulder with homey guesthouses, chic modern facilities next to motel cellblocks and all vying for supremacy for the choicest beachside real estate. Even if your budget is tight, you can still enjoy the same sand as those is the more exclusive joints.
For more detailed information on each beach, check out the “Orientation” section above; the list below is but a selection from most beaches, the best of the many options on this fast-developing island.
Santiburi Dusit Resort The Santiburi Dusit is the ultimate in relaxed luxury on the island. The resort design is influenced by late Thai royal architecture, with spacious and airy interiors—a simplicity accented with luxurious Jim Thompson Thai silks and tidy floral arrangements. The gardens and beachfront are picturesque and quiet and the staff is motivated to please, making this not only the finest resort on the island, but comparable to any of the fine properties in the kingdom. The resorts top villas front the beach, while the others are set among lush greenery around a central pool and spa. Each bungalow is a luxe suite, with living and sleeping areas divided by glass and flowers. The bathroom is masterfully fitted in wood and black tiles, the centerpiece a large, round sunken tub. Standard features such as a video player and stereo system make each villa as convenient as your own home. Guests can take advantage of windsurfing and sailing on the house. They also have their own gorgeous Chinese junk anchored in the bay for dinner cruises or for hiring out to tour surrounding islands.
12/12 Moo 1, Tambol Mae Nam, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84330.Tel. 0 7742-5031. Fax 07742-5040. www.dusit.com. 71 units. 15,600B–18,700B ($380–$455) deluxe suites; 18,850B–40,600B ($460–$990) villas; AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars and a lounge; outdoor pool; outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center; spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; watersports equipment; concierge; car-rental desk; limousine service; Internet; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV and DVD with disc library, wireless Internet, stereo system, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
Coco Palm Samui A good budget choice, Coco Palm’s bungalows are basic and comfortable, all with air-conditioning, minibar, and TV. They attract lots of families on a budget, but still it is quite peaceful. Deluxe bungalows are worth a bump-up; though still with just shower-in-room baths, they are airy with vaulted catay ceilings and seaside bungalows are worth the next bump-up for location.
26/4 Moo 4, Maenam Beach, Koh Samui 84330.Tel. 0 7724-7288. Fax 07742-5321. www.cocopalmsamui.com. 86 units. 800B–1,000 ($19.50–$24) double; 1,300B–1,600B ($31–$39) deluxe; 2,000–2,500 (US$49–US$61) suite. MC,V. Amenities: Restaurant; small outdoor pool; Jeep and motorcycle rental; tour desk; transfer service; laundry service. In room: A/C, minibar, no phone.
Mae Nam Resort These 36 bungalows form a little secluded village in jungle gardens with tall lush greenery. Each has teak paneling and floors, rattan furnishings, a small bathroom in tidy tiles, and a small deck in front. Beachfront bungalows will have you stepping off your balcony right into the silky, palm-shaded sand for very little considering the neighboring Santiburi Dusit Resort’s beachfront villa run about 32,800B ($1,000). Okay, Mae Nam Resort can’t compare to five-star luxury, but it’s the same sand and view.
Mae Nam Beach, Koh Samui, 84330 Surat Thani (next to the Santiburi Dusit).Tel. 0 7724-7287. Fax 07742-5116. maenamrs@samart.co.th. 41 units. 1,000B–1,200B ($12.20–$29) double w/fan; 1,600B ($39) A/C bungalow. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; Jeep and motorcycle rental; transfer service; limited room service; laundry service. In room: no phone.
Seafan Beach Resort With Thai ambience and low-key elegance, these semi-deluxe beach bungalows are connected by wooden walkways covering 3 hectares (8 acres) of landscaped grounds fronting the bay. Each rustic rattan and coconut-wood house has two queen-size beds, an extra rattan daybed, built-in bamboo furnishings and large, all-tiled bathroom with nice robes and slippers for padding about. Bungalows are well spaced and private (some directly on the water) but sadly a new multi-floor hotel is going up next door and they’ll peek down onto the bungalows (they’re planting large trees to fix the problem). A small pool with kiddy pool and a snack bar overlook the beach. The restaurant features Thai, Continental, and good seafood. Rates include use of windsurfing boards, snorkeling gear, and other water-sports activities. Service is attentive.
Mae Nam Beach, Koh Samui 84330, Surat Thani (west end of beach) tel. 0 7742-5204. Fax 07742-5350. www.samui-hotels.com/seafan. 36 units. 4,500B ($110) double, slightly more for seafront; special rates available. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; outdoor pool and children’s pool; watersports equipment; children’s playroom; tour desk; limousine service; massage; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, minibar, hair dryer, safe.
Peace Resort The Peace Resort has blossomed from humble beginnings as a small bungalow guesthouse. That same relaxed spirit pervades but these newest freestanding bungalows are small luxury suites really. All have vaulted ceilings with design schemes that are either finely crafted wood or cooler, almost Mediterranean numbers in pastel tiles with designer flat-stone masonry and smooth stucco. Spring for the larger seaside rooms. The central pool is not particularly large but cozy and near the beach. There’s a small, open-air restaurant where you can enjoy a cool drink, the company of good friends and the calm of this tranquil bay with the Big Buddha winking from the next beach. Peace indeed.
Bo Phut Beach, Koh Samui 94320 (central Bo Phut).Tel. 0 7742-5357. Fax 07742-5343. www.peaceresort.com. 102 units. 2,450B–3,100B ($60–$75) garden bungalow; 3,400B–4,500B ($83–$110) beach-view bungalow. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; spa (across the road); kids’ club and playground; tour desk; car and motorbike rental; Internet; babysitting; limited room service (6am–11:30pm); laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, no phone.
Nara Garden Beach Resort The Nara is one of the island’s older inns, with attached rooms as similar to an American motel as you’ll come in Koh Samui. A well-kept lawn leads to the beach and quite bay. The Nara has large connecting rooms for families. Spring for a superior.
81 Moo 4, Bophut, Koh Samui 84320, Surat Thani (Big Buddha Beach).Tel. 0 7742-5364. Fax 07742-5292. naragarden@sawadee.com. 43 units. 1,800B ($44) standard; 2100B–2,700B ($51–$66) superior–deluxe; 3,000B ($73) suite. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; tour desk; transfer service; babysitting; laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.
The Tongsai Bay Built amphitheatrically down a hillside, the white stucco, red-tile-roofed bungalows and buildings remind one of the Mediterranean, though the palm trees are pure Thai. Between the half-moon cove’s rocky bookends, the coarse sand beach invites you to idle away the days. This all-suite resort has some very unique touches that set it apart—each unit has plenty of outdoor terrace space with sea views or a nice private walled courtyard. Terrace suites have outdoor bathtubs, while the Grand Tongsai Villas have not only tubs but also gazebos. The villas are designed in a unique harmony with nature, some even have small stands of trees growing though the middle of them and you’ll find plenty of spots to hide out with a hammock under a shade tree. Service is tip-top. The only drawback: The many steps between the hilltop reception area, the bungalows, and the beach. Advance reservations (up to 3 months) are required in high season.
84 Moo 5, Ban Plailaem, Bophut, Koh Samui 84320, Surat Thani (northeast tip of island).Tel. 0 7742-5015. Fax 07742-5462. Bangkok reservations office 02254-0056. Fax 02254-0054. www.tongsaibay.co.th. 83 units. 11,000B ($268) beachfront or cottage suite; 22,000B ($537) Tongsai Grand Villa. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; outdoor pool; outdoor lighted tennis court; fitness center; spa w/massage and beauty treatments; watersports equipment; snooker room; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; Internet center; limited room service; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, DVD player (disks available at small library), minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
Samui Peninsula Spa and Resort If you can, do stay at the Peninsula Resort; you’ll be treated like royalty in a fine private suite or your own luxury pool villa with incredible views from this rocky promontory on the cusp of Choeng Mon and Bophut. It’s a long walk to the beach proper, but you may not want to leave this ultra-comfy compound. Rooms are sanctuaries done in dark wood, silk and brimming with Thai features and classical style. The central pool has scenic views, and resort dining and services are tops. Honeymooners delight.
24/73 Moo 5, Bo Phut Beach, Koh Samui 84320 (on the rocky point between Mae Nam and Bo Phut). Tel. 0 7742-8100. Fax 07742-8122. 43 units. 10,250B–14,350B ($250–$350) suite; from 22,550B ($550) villa. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; outdoor pool; watersports equipment rental; tour desk; car rental; limousine service; Internet; 24-hr. room service; massage; same-day laundry and dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV w/in-house movies; minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.
The Imperial Boathouse You’ve a pretty unique concept here—34 authentic teak rice barges have been dry-docked and converted into charming free-standing suites: quite unique. The less-expensive rooms in the three-story buildings are fine but not nearly as atmospheric. Hotel facilities are extensive and if you can’t get a boat suite you can swim in their boat-shaped swimming pool.
83 Moo 5, Tambon Bophut, Koh Samui 84320, Surat Thani (southern part of beach).Tel. 0 7742-5041. Fax 07742-5460. www.imperialhotels.com. 210 units. 5,500B–6,500B ($135–$160) double; 9,225B ($225) boat suite. AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; 2 outdoor pools; fitness center; spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; water-sports equipment; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar; fridge, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
The White House This resort in the graceful Ayutthaya style, built around a central garden with a lotus pond and swimming pool, is by far the top choice in Choeng Mon for comfort at cost. The lobby is impeccably decorated with original Thai artwork. Spacious and elegant rooms flank a central walkway that’s lined with orchids. Houses accommodate four rooms each, which are large with separate sitting areas, huge beds, fine furnishings and large bathrooms. By the beach there’s a pool with a bar and an especially graceful teak sala. The resort’s quality Swiss management team is very efficient and assures a pleasant stay. This is top comfort spilling onto a beautiful stretch of white sand beach.
59/3 Moo 5, Choeng Mon Beach, Koh Samui 84320, Surat Thani.Tel. 0 7724-5315. Fax 07724-5318. www.samuidreamholiday.com. 40 units. 5,000B–5,600B ($122–$136) double; 6,200B ($151) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; outdoor pool; Jacuzzi; Jeep and motorcycle rental; tour desk; transfer service; massage; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, safe.
P.S. Villa It’s just spick-and-span bungalows well-spaced for extra quiet at affordable prices. Down a small dirt road, the villas are on a large lawn with lots of flowering plants. There is also a basic bamboo bar and dining pavilion at seaside. Large but very rustic thatch and rattan bungalows with bamboo porch furniture have comfortable beds, fans, and tiled cold-water showers. The proverbial “cheap and best” along quiet Choeng Mon.
24/2 Moo 5, Choeng Mon Beach, Koh Samui 84320, (down a dirt track at the north end of beach). Tel. 0 7742-5160. 19 units. 700B–1,500B ($17–$36) double with A/C; 400B ($9.10) double with fan. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; laundry service. In room: No phone.
Amari Palm Reef Resort This is the finest of Amari’s many hotels in Thailand by virtue of their luxury suites at beachside and the comfortable design of the ocean-side pool and dining. Older accommodation in the main block is not particularly luxurious though very clean with parquet floors. New suite rooms face the sea and are designed in a seamless marriage of contemporary and traditional Thai with large decks giving way to huge glass sliders, lovely sunken seating areas, massive, plush beds situated in the center of the rooms and behind which you’ll find designer bathrooms with separate shower, tub and his-and-her sinks. The central pool area is lovely and the staff is kind and helpful. The rocks and coral along the beach mean you’ll have to take a bit of a walk for swimming, but the scenery is lovely and you can expect the same high standard of service as at all Amari hotels and the resort is far enough from Chaweng strip to be quiet and comfortable (but close enough to party). Great for families.
Chaweng Beach, Samui 84320 (north end of the main strip). Tel. 0 7742-2015 Fax 07742-2394. www.amari.com. 104 units. 6,150B ($150) superior; 7,400B ($180) deluxe; 10,250B ($250) suite. AE, MC,V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 outdoor pools; squash court; spa w/massage, Jacuzzi, sauna, and steam; bike rental; kids’ club; tour desk; car rental; small boutique shopping; babysitting; same-day laundry/dry cleaning service; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
Coral Bay Resort Far from the boom-boom bass of Chaweng but close enough to commute easily, the Coral Bay crests a picturesque hill on the northern end of Chaweng and is a collection of large, upscale thatch bungalows. Rooms are in rows along the hillside (a bit of trudging to get to some) and each has a large balcony, some shared with adjoining rooms. Room decor is lavish with bamboo and coconut inlaid cabinets, intricate thatch, fine hangings and some rooms feature unique, graphic mosaics: nothing like it on Samui. Spring for a deluxe room with canopy bed. Bathrooms are small garden landscapes with waterfall showers and designer flat-stone masonry. The central pool area is high above the rock and coral beach below (not good for swimming) and large thatch pavilions house the open lobby and fine dining. A good standard of comfort and service throughout and they provide good information about self-touring (or can make arrangements). Rooms do not have TVs but there is a library and video lounge.
9 Moo 2, Bophut, Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui 84320 (north end of Chaweng as the road crests the first big hill).Tel. 0 7742-2223. Fax 07742-2392. www.coralbay.net. 53 units. 3,700B ($90) superior; 5,000B ($122) deluxe; from 10,000 ($244) Deluxe family suite; all rooms add beachfront surcharge. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pool; spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; kids’ club; tour desk; car rental; Internet; library and video lounge; small shop; massage; babysitting; laundry service; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.
Imperial Samui Hotel A member of the large, Thai-owned Imperial group, the hotel is set in a large hill-top grove of coconut palms a short drive south of busy Chaweng. You can’t walk it, but they do have frequent shuttle service to town for 50B ($1.20) and the resort, unlike most on or near Chaweng, is quiet. Their large, salt-water pool has an organic design with large boulders, a central island and a vanishing edge overlooking the bay below: charming. Spacious rooms have large balconies with sea views, lots of floral prints and rattan, large bathrooms with potted plants, and easy access (via steps) to the beach. The sprawling hillside location means a bit of hill hiking to some of the furthest rooms, but for seclusion and comfort, this is a good choice.
86 Moo 3, Ban Chaweng Noi, Koh Samui 84320, Surat Thani (middle of Chaweng Noi Beach). Tel. 0 7742-2020. Fax 07742-2396. www.imperialhotels.com. 155 units. 5,750B ($140) double; 7,175B ($175) premiere sea-facing; from 7,800B ($190) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; 2 outdoor pools, 1 freshwater and 1 seawater; outdoor lighted tennis courts; Jacuzzi; water-sports equipment and dive center; bike rental; snooker and badminton; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV with free in-house movies, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
Muang Kulaypan Hotel Like a museum “installation” as much as a hotel, the rooms of the Muang Kulaypan are gracefully simplistic in natural woods and rich local textiles in clean, contemporary minimalist lines. The name is derived from an ancient Thai-Javanesse tale and pieces of the story are spelled-out in calligraphy on some room walls. The design can be almost harsh it is so Spartan but you are meant to like it that way and the overall effect of the interiors is not displeasing. Almost all rooms have sea views. That same clean lined minimalism of the rooms only works when it is in fact “clean” though and the sprawling public spaces and central courtyard are getting a bit run-down. The black tiled pool is lovely though and their Budsaba Restaurant serves fine Thai cuisine in private thatched salas. The staff is smartly dressed and snaps to. A good place for that post-modern honeymoon.
100 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach Rd., Koh Samui 84320, Surat Thani (northern end of Chaweng Beach). Tel. 0 7723-0850. Fax 07723-0031. www.kulaypan.com. 40 units. 2,600B–4,800B ($63–$117) double; from
5,500B ($134) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; outdoor pool; small fitness center; tour desk; car and motorcycle rental; limousine service; limited room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, minibar, fridge, safe.
Poppies Samui Resort The famed Balinese resort features this popular annex in Samui. On the south end of busy Chaweng, Poppies is indeed an oasis. Luxury cottages, all the same, have thatch roofs and Thai-Balinese appointments. Privacy and service is the hallmark here. Rooms are set close together but well situated for optimum privacy. This is a popular honeymoon choice and the service and standards throughout are tops. Their central pool is small but cozy and the hotel dining is some of the best going (see “Where to Dine” below).
P.O. Box 1, Chaweng, Koh Samui 84320 (on the south end of the Chaweng strip). Tel. 0 7742-2419. Fax 07742-2420. www.kohsamui.net/poppies. 24 units. 8,200B ($200) double with seasonal fluctuations. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, pool, spa, tour desk, shopping, limited room service, massage, laundry. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, coffee and tea, safe, IDD phone. The Princess Village If you’ve wondered what sleeping in Jim Thompson’s House or in a Thai Palace might be like, try the regal Princess Village. Traditional teak houses from Ayutthaya have been restored and placed around lushly planted ponds and garden dotted with comfortable Thai salas. Each room is on stilts (some above private lotus ponds) and use-worn stairs lead up to large verandas where they serve complimentary afternoon tea and cakes. Inside each picturesque pavilion, you’ll find a grand teak bed covered in embroidered silk, antique furniture and fine artwork. Small, carved dressing tables and spacious bathrooms contain painted ceramics, silverware, a porcelain dish, a large khlong jar for water storage, and other Thai details side-by-side with modern conveniences. Traditional shuttered windows on all sides have no screens, but lacy mosquito netting and a ceiling fan, combined with sea breezes, create fine ventilation. There is air-conditioning for skeptics.
101/1 Moo 3, Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui 84320, Surat Thani (middle of Chaweng Beach).Tel. 0 7742-2216. Fax 07742-2382. www.samuidreamholiday.com. 14 units. 3,800B ($68) garden-view double; 4,200B–5,000B ($82–$100) sea-view double; from 5,200B ($105) suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; Jeep and motorcycle rental; tour desk; daily Chinese tea service on your veranda; massage; laundry service. In room: minibar, coffee/tea-making facilities, safe.
Chaweng Resort Like a small-time Florida development, the Chaweng Resort consists of two columns of freestanding bungalows leading to the sea. Cottages are basic but spacious with lots of overdone filigree. Bathrooms are plain but spotless. The larger suites are a good value for families. The grounds are nicely landscaped and they’re doing cosmetic renovation that will mean a carved concrete lobby not unlike a Hindu temple (or a wedding cake) and there are lots of fun Thai touches and statues throughout. The central pool is small but cozy and their Thai/Continental restaurant overlooks the beach. The place is not luxurious, but a good family choice bustling with activity.
Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui, 84320 Surat Thani (middle of Chaweng Beach).Tel. 0 7742-2230, or 02651-0016 in Bangkok. Fax 07751-0018. www.chawengresort.com. 70 units. 2,200B–2,800B ($54–$68) double; 3,000B ($73) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; tour desk; Internet; massage; laundry service. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge.
New Star Bungalow Far to the south of busy Chaweng on a quiet hilltop out of the fray, New Star has good, basic, freestanding villas with private decks and good views of a quiet stretch of beach. Deluxe bungalows are larger and further uphill with better sea views and charming stonework in the bathrooms. Smaller superior rooms line-up suburban style (in rows) at seaside (only the front row rooms have good views . . . oh, those Joneses!). Many rooms have both a double bed and small alcove single bed, ideal for small families.
Chaweng Noi Beach, Koh Samui 84320, Surat Thani (south of Chaweng on a hilltop near the Imperial Resort). Tel. 0 7742-2407. Fax 07742-2325. 50 units. 1,900B ($41) superior double; from 2,650B ($65) deluxe bungalow. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; watersports equipment; bike rental; transfer service; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, fridge, minibar.
Tradewinds Tradewinds was one of the earliest hotels in Chaweng and still a good choice on the south end of the strip. From the higher priced bungalows you can step right off your front porch into the sand, while standard bungalows are in a secluded garden not far from the beach. Rooms are not particularly luxurious but have large beds and rattan furnishings, good for travelers who want the intimate feeling of a bungalow village but don’t want to sacrifice modern conveniences. They’ve just opened a new motel-style block, but stick to the bungalows. Tradewinds is also home of Samui’s catamaran sailing center.
17/14 Moo 3, Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui 84320, Surat Thani. Tel. 0 7723-0602. Fax 07723-1247. 20 units. 2,500B–3,000B ($61–$73) double. AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; catamaran sailing center; laundry service. In room: A/C, minibar, fridge.
King’s Garden Resort These simple bungalows are the last of a dying breed along busy Chaweng. Still only fans and cold-water showers here, it won’t be long before they’ll go boutique on us, but for now it’s a good cheap option on a busier section of beach. The older, smaller cottages are close to the beach and a few have air-conditioning now.
12 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui 84320, Surat Thani (middle of Chaweng Beach).Tel. 0 7742-2304. Fax 07742-0430. 32 units. 1,000B–2,500B ($23–$57) double with A/C; 350B–800B ($7.95–$18) double with fan. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; massage; laundry service. In room: No phone.
208/1 Moo 4, T. Maret, Lamai, Koh Samui 84310 (on the north-east end of Lamai on the hilltop).Tel. 0 7742-9300. Fax 07742-9333. www.buriraya.com. 77 units. 10,000B ($244) deluxe double; from 21,000B ($512) suite; from 18,000B ($439) villa. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; outdoor pool; health club; spa w/Jacuzzi, sauna, steam; seakajak & bicycles free of charge; watersports rentals; bike rentals; children’s center; tour desk; car-rental; business center; shopping; limited room service; babysitting; same-day laundry and dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV w/DVD and CD, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, safe, IDD phone.
Pavilion Samui Boutique Resort Applying the term “boutique” is usually left to travel agents and writers, but at the Pavilion they’ve just cut out the middleman. What is boutique anyway? It’s style on a small scale with top service; the newly renovated Pavilion is more the Rococo of a small-time mafia Don’s private sanctuary, but they are pretty close and the service is good. Public spaces are chic and upscale, surrounded by lots of greenery. Deluxe rooms run the gamut from fine private bungalows, some still a rustic thatch and others new, updated and with a clean Mediterranean flare in colored concrete (like stucco but smooth). Honeymoon suites and spa rooms have huge luxury bathrooms, some even a courtyard area where guests can enjoy a Jacuzzi and shower under the stars. They have a fine new spa, the small pool and dining pavilion are right on the surf and proximity to Lamai’s nightlife is a plus for most guests.
124/24 Moo 3, Lamai Beach, Koh Samui 84310, Surat Thani (north end of Lamai Beach). Tel. 0 7742-4030. Fax 07742-4029. www.pavilionsamui.com. 62 units. 5,000B–6,500B ($122–$158) bungalow; from 8,000B ($195) suite. AE, DC, MC,V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; spa; Jacuzzi; steambath; tour desk; car-rental desk; transfer service; limited room service; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, safe.
Spa Samui Resorts For long-term stays or just a daytime spa visit, The Spa Samui Resorts is a unique choice offering a “healthy good time.” Their popular cleansing and fasting series rejuvenates your system with prepared detox drinks and tablets plus twice daily colonic enema.Some balk at the thought of paying 10,660B ($260) per week, on top of room rental, to “not eat,” but it is a good, professional program. The laid back spa resort on the sea just north of Lamai has been around for years and is still in full swing, a rustic grouping of old bungalows and open-air dining and massage pavilions, but they’ve just built a new, more comfortable property in the south of Lamai, high in the hills above town. Rooms at the new resort range from simple, affordable bungalows to large private suites with large balconies. All rooms are fitted with a colonic board for daily enemas. The new spa has a cozy pool, herbal steam bath in a large stone grotto, massage, body wraps, and facial treatments. Classes and workshops on yoga, meditation, and massage techniques can fill your day or you can just put your feet up, colon all sparkling clean, and have a go at that novel you’ve been lugging around (or writing). All of the spa services are available for day visitors. Their vegetarian restaurant serves excellent dishes with particular care to cleansing the body (see “Where to Dine” below).
Lamai Beach, Koh Samui 84320, Surat Thani (just south, in the hills over Lamai Beach).Tel. 0 7723-0855. Fax 07742-4126. www.spasamui.com. 44 units (+16 at the old resort). 800B–3,000B ($19.50–$73). MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; juice bar; pool; spa; sauna; massage; laundry service. In room: A/C, minibar, fridge, safe.
Lamai Wanta On a fine stretch of beach on the north end of Lamai, the newly-built Lamai Wanta is a small campus of clean-lined, ultra-contemporary ocean-side cottages and a cluster of rooms in a two-story hotel block. There is little in the way of service here and no pool yet (still building), but the rooms are very tidy with terra-cotta tile, high ceiling, dark wooden trim and balconies: pointedly Spartan like an art gallery or overpriced sushi bar. There’s nothing like it in Lamai at this price (ask about seasonal discounts).
124/264 Moo 3, Tumbon Maret (north end of Lamai beach). Tel. 0 7742-4550. Fax 07742-4218. 34 units. 1,200B ($29) double in hotel block; 1,800B–2,000B ($44–$49) bungalow. MC,V. Amenities: Tour desk, Internet, laundry. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, safe, IDD phone.
110 Moo 2, Hua Thanon, Laem Set, Koh Samui 84310, Surat Thani. Tel. 0 7742-4393. Fax 07742-4394. www.laemset.com. 30 units. 3,100B ($75) seafront bungalow with fan; 4,900B–7,600B ($120–$185) standard double; from 8,200B ($200) suite. MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; outdoor pool; fitness center; Jacuzzi; sauna; watersports equipment; bike and motorcycle rental; children’s programs; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; business center; limited room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, wireless Internet, minibar, fridge, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe, IDD phone.
Le Royal Meridien Baan Taling Ngam A true five-star, Le Royal Meridien is peaceful and isolated on the western side of the island some 40 minutes’ drive from the Samui Airport. Built on the side of a hill, the resort’s accommodations include deluxe rooms and suites, as well as one- to three-bedroom beach and cliff villas. The hilltop lobby and restaurant, as well as the guest rooms, have fantastic views of the sea and resort gardens, and the main pool appears to spill over its edges into the coconut palm grove below. Guest rooms combine Thai furniture, fine textiles and louvered wood paneling, including the sliding doors to the huge tanning terrace. Bathrooms feature oversized tubs and sophisticated black slate and wood paneling. The two-bedroom villas afford the most value and convenience for families. The resorts only detractor is that the beach is small and while some may seek out the privacy this resort promises, the cost is isolation from the “action” on the other parts of the island—at least a 30-minute drive away. They have kayaks, catamarans, snorkeling gear, and Windsurfers for rent, as well as tennis, mountain bikes, fine spa, PADI dive school, and no fewer than seven outdoor swimming pools so no one gets bored. Dining at the hilltop Lom Talay is as gorgeous as the Thai and Asian cuisine served, while The Promenade serves locally caught fresh seafood by the beach.
295 Moo 3, Taling Ngam Beach, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84140.Tel. 800/225-5843 in the U.S., or 07742-3019. www.lemeridien.com. 72 units. 18,000B–20,500B ($440–$500) double; 31,150B ($760) suite; 31,150B–90,600B ($760–$2,210) villa. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; 7 pools; outdoor lighted tennis courts; fitness center; spa with massage; Jacuzzi; sauna; water-sports equipment and dive center; bike rental; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limousine service; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, IDD phone.
Chaweng is lined with eateries varying from McDonald’s to fine dining. Below are merely a few.
Betelnut INTERNATIONAL California cuisine anyone? Down a quiet soi off the south end of Chaweng, you’ll be greeted at the door by Jeffrey Lord, owner, proprietor and rollicking raconteur who hands out fine wit and witticisms along with good victuals. The menu is divided into “Eats Big” and “Eats Small,” not necessarily apps and main courses but could be, and runs the gamut from “Buddha Jumped Over the Wall” (an ostrich steak) to Clam Chowder with green curry. I had a delicious sesame-encrusted Salmon Katsu indicative of the international fare here. The blackened tuna with salsa and soft-shell crabs with green papaya and mango salad are also good choices. Come with friends, order a spread of taps choices and pick from among their fine wines for a great evening.
46/27 Chaweng Blvd., Chaweng (south of Tradewinds Hotel and the town center, down a small soi).Te. 0 7741-3370. Main courses 225B–625B ($5.50–$15). MC, V. Daily 6pm–last order.
Poppies THAI/INTERNATIONAL Known for its Balinese flare, Poppies is equally famous for fresh seafood by the beach. The romantic atmosphere under the large thatch pavilion is enhanced by soft lighting and live international jazz music. Guest chefs from around the world mean the menu is ever-changing, but you can be sure their seafood selections are some of the best catches around. A good place, especially if you’re romancing someone special. South Chaweng Beach. Tel. 0 7742-2419. Reservations recommended during peak season. Main courses
80B–240B ($1.80–$5.45). AE, MC, V. Daily 7am–10pm.
Vechia Napoli ITALIAN Listen to the dulcet tones of quiet Italian folk music and watch lazy fans languidly churn cool air as you lean back in a rattan chair; you might think you’ve been transported to a small town in rural Napoli, and the simple authentic cuisine of this restaurant completes the picture. Tomato and mozzarella with a splash of pesto, a glass of red and good conversation; you won’t believe you’re just a stone’s throw from busy Chaweng (down a little alley with seedy massage places and bars, but somehow lends to the atmosphere).
They have it all here: great pastas, grilled specials, pizza and the house special is the shellfish soup with king prawns, fresh crab, mussels and clams done in a special Neapolitan broth. Follow it up with a real gelato or tiramisu and espresso. I make a kissing sound with fingertips to lips and lift them in the air joyfully and smile.
166/31 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui 84320 (central Chaweng). Tel. 0 7723-1229. Main courses 120B–420B ($2.90–$10). MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.
The Spa Restaurant VEGETARIAN Not just for veggies here at the Spa Restaurant (they serve a few seafood and chicken dishes as well), but to anyone who’d like to enjoy a healthful, tasty dish. Go for the delicious curries, or try the excellent local dishes. But leave plenty of time for an herbal steam and massage at their Health Center. I think for a vacation activity, this is tops for relaxation—an afternoon of pure indulgence, and it’s good for you! Try either their new mountain-top retreat or the older resort just north of Lamai. Route 4169, between Chaweng and Lamai Beaches. Tel. 0 7723-0855. Reservations recommended in peak season. Main courses 30B–250B (70¢–$3.40). MC, V. Daily 7am–10pm.
Angela Harbourside Café INTERNATIONAL Along with Angela’s popular bakery on the main road near Bophut beach, this is where to come for some of the comforts of home. Great bread (and I mean real bread, not the over-sweet variety so common in Asia) is baked fresh daily. Sandwiches run the gamut and there’s a whole roster of good, international cuisine.
21 Moo 1 Bo Phut Beach 84320 (just a stone’s throw south of the boat docks in busy Fisherman’s Village). Tel. 0 7742-7212. Main courses 80B–350B ($1.95–$8.50). MC, V. Daily 8am–10pm.
The Mangrove INTERNATIONAL For romantic, elegant dining, the Mangrove is the best on Samui. They’re on a quiet stretch of rural road (near the airport) and though far from the bustling tourist areas like Chaweng, that is in fact the very appeal here and the restaurant is but a short ride from Chaweng (near Bophut Beach). The casual, cozy, open-air dining area overlooks a grove of mangroves of course and echoes with the sounds of forest and jungle. The menu changes monthly to cater to their oft-returning expatriate clientele. For a starter, try the crab salad and ask about any daily specials. I had a delicious lamb chop marinated in Herbs de Provence. The place is run by a friendly young (but very experienced) French/Belgian couple who go to great lengths. Don’t scrimp on dessert, try the rich chocolate mouse and follow it up with a Rum Ginger, their signature after-dinner drink.
32/6 Moo 4, Bophut, Koh Samui 84320 (on the airport road between Bophut and Big Buddha). Tel. 0 7742-7584. Main courses 430B–520B ($10–$13). Daily 5pm–last order (Note: They’re closed on the last 3 days of each month.).
Local aquanauts agree that the best scuba diving is off Koh Tao, a small island north of Koh Pha Ngan and Koh Samui and many of the operations on Samui coordinate with larger on-site dive centers there while also offering good day trips from Samui. Conditions vary with the seasons (best from Oct–Mar). The cluster of tiny islands south of Samui, Mu Koh Angthong National Park, are often more reliable destinations. Follow the advice of a local dive shop on where to go because many have schools on Samui and offer trips ranging further afield.
Big Blue (Te. 0 7745-6179) caters custom trips to divers of any skill-level and is a good choice for a small group or those seeking private attention. Some of the finest snorkeling off Koh Samui is found along the rocky coast between Chaweng Noi and Lamai Bays. Several shops along Chaweng Beach rent snorkeling gear for about 100B ($2.50) per day.
Blue Stars Sea Kayaking, at the Gallery Lafayette next to the Green Mango in Chaweng (Tel. 0 7723-0497) and easy to contact through most booking agents, takes people kayaking and snorkeling to the Marine National Park. The rubber canoes are perfect for exploring the caverns underneath limestone cliffs. If you can’t get to Phang Nga, for the most fantastic sea cave scenery, this trip is a fun alternative. The 4-hour trip costs 2,000B ($49) per person.
For catamaran sailing, check out Tradewinds Resort in Chaweng (Tel. 0 7723-0602). Owner and long-time resident, John Stall offers courses and guides daysailing. Instruction starts at 2,500B ($61) for a 3-hour course, while straight rentals are 800B ($18) per hour.
Here’s a fun one: Samui Rocks (Tel. 0 7742-2232) is a little bar at the base of a road-cut cliff a few clicks south of Chaweng on the way to Lamai. Can’t miss it. They have a number of top-rope routes set up for beginners (one climb is 200B/$4.90) and hold courses in lead climbing (1,800B/$44 per day).
For daily Thai cooking and fruit carving lessons, Samui Institute of Thai Culinary Arts (SITCA; www.sitca.com.) is a professional operation and a great way to have fun—especially if your beach plans get rained out. A lunchtime course goes for 995B ($24) and a dinner course is 1,400B ($34; they accept major credit cards). Call tel. 0 7741-3172 for more details or stop in on Chaweng Beach across from the Central Samui Resort (on the same street as Betelnut, see “Where to Dine,” above).
The spa scene on the island has really taken off. All of the big resorts offer “spa” services of varying quality and there are a number of good day-spas on the island. Whether as an escape from the kids on a rainy day or as part of a larger health-focused mission in Thailand, Samui has all the services.
Ban Sabai (at Big Buddha Beach; Tel. 0 7724-5175; www.ban-sabai.com) is a great choice for relaxing seaside massage and offers all treatments, from aromatherapy to body waxing, in their lush, Thai-style compound. Personal attention is their hallmark and a well-informed staff can tailor a program to your every need. Treatments start at just 1,000B ($24) for a 1-hour massage.
Heavena Spa just north of Chaweng (follow signs to the Chaba Resort; Tel. 0 7723-0771) is another oasis of calm, a hotel-block compound of full-facility massage rooms offering all treatments. Down in Lamai, The Spa Resort (Tel. 0 7723-0855; www.spasamui.com) has been a leader on the island for years and continues to provide good, affordable day-programs as well as their signature fasting retreat and all-inclusive packages.
Tamarind Retreat is a more exclusive choice set apart in a jungle area just off the beach at Lamai. They offer the standard services at slightly inflated prices and practice Paparazzi prevention (allows no visitors). Call ahead: Tel. 0 7723-0571 (www.tamarindretreat.com). Traditional massage is available in any number of storefronts in Chaweng and everywhere along the beach. Expect to pay between 200B and 400B ($4.90–$9.75) per hour for services much the same as the average spa but without the pomp, circumstance, and incense.
There is very little in terms of local crafts production on the island—most everything is imported from the mainland so save the big purchases for Bangkok or Chiang Mai. Pearls are cultivated locally and you’ll see some good examples in a few shops. Ask local tour operators about trips to nearby pearl-diving areas.
The same infernal trucks advertise the “Freedom Beach Party!” which takes place on the beaches north of Chaweng on full moon days mostly. Party music, flashing lights and drinks dispensed from great big coolers all add up to your average fraternity party, but it can be fun. When not doing the old “over-bite boogie,” kick back on big straw mats, gaze at the stars and get metaphysical. Many of the hotels and resorts have culture shows featuring Thai dance that are worth seeing and it wouldn’t be a Thai beach without Koh Samuis drag queen review. Christy’s Cabaret (Tel. 0 1676-2181 cellular) on the north end of Chaweng puts on a hilarious show that’s free of charge. Come well before the show starts at 11pm to get a better seat, and be prepared to make up for that free admission with cocktail prices.
Zico’s, a unique Brazilian restaurant, has a slick, big-city kind of bar that will be a comfort to any Hollywood-style “players” who miss the playground. Zico’s modern facade looks over the busy main drag in the south of Chaweng near the Central Resort compound (Tel. 0 7723-1560). Over at Lamai Beach, there are some open-air bars geared to budget backpackers, but many are the sleazier bar-beer variety. Bauhaus, located in the center of town on the beach road, is at its best a stompin’ club and at its worst hosts only a few tables of the lads there to watch English football. It’s usually going strong in high season. On Bophut Beach, be sure to stop by friendly and laid back Frog and Gecko Bar (in Fisherman’s Village; Tel. 0 7742-5248), especially for their popular pub quiz on Wednesday evenings. Sunday afternoons, be sure to truck on over to The Secret Garden Pub on Big Buddha Beach (Tel. 0 7724-5253) for live music and a barbecue on the beach. Many a famous performer (Gerry played here, man!) has jumped up on 200 C stage and there have been times where the pub has hosted thousands. It is not exactly “secret,” but highly recommended.
Forty islands northwest of Koh Samui have been designated a national park.
Ang Thong National Marine Park is known for its scenic beauty and rare coral reefs. Many of these islands are limestone rock towers (similar to Phangnga Bay off Phuket), once used by pirates marauding in the South China Sea.
Mae Koh (Mother Island) is known for both its beach and Thale Noi, an inland saltwater lake that is mysteriously replenished through an undiscovered outlet to the sea. Known to the Thais as Ang Thong, or Golden Bowl, this yellowish-green lagoon gave its name to the entire archipelago. You can book a private boat from Nathon Pier, or you can take a day trip in sea kayaks, paddling through the scenery for better views. A day trip runs about 2,000B ($49) with Blue Stars in Chaweng (Tel. 0 7723-0497).
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| Map of Koh Pha Ngan |
The southeastern peninsula of Haad Rin is the locus of the monthly Full Moon Party, a multiday beachside rave with all the day-glow, strobe-lights, and debauch you can handle; attendance at the raves, especially in high season, numbers in many thousands of partyers moving to the mix of a European DJ, gobbling tabs of Ecstasy and magic mushrooms, and letting loose, very loose: something like Ibiza meets a Fish show at the beach. The aftermath of the party is a beautiful white-sand beach strewn with party garbage and buzzing with flies. Efforts at clean-up are often inadequate.
If you’re interested in attending, boats from piers at either Big Buddha Beach or Bophut on Koh Samui leave at regular intervals all day and night (stopping at around 1am) and many revelers just make a night of it, crash on the beach and come back to Samui in the morning. 
A word of warning: Beware of theft at Full Moon parties—do yourself a favor and lock all your valuables in a hotel safe.
A word of warning: Beware of theft at Full Moon parties—do yourself a favor and lock all your valuables in a hotel safe.
By Boat Frequent boats link Surat Thani, Koh Samui, Koh Pha Ngan, Koh Tao, and Chumphon and back again. From Samui’s Nathon Pier, the trip to Koh Pha Ngan takes just over an hour and costs 95B ($2.30). Contact Songserm in Koh Samui (Tel. 0 7742-0157).
Note: Unfortunately, the muster point in Pha Ngan is not well organized, just a bare pier and one gruff attendant not answering any questions for the hundreds of tourists milling around in the hot sun. Come armed with the patience of Buddha, especially any time near Full
Moon. Special boats from Samui’s Big Buddha Beach or Bophut Beach also make regular trips for 100B ($2.50, more during Full Moon Parties at inflated rates).
FAST FACTS
The tourist police operate a small information kiosk on the north end of the ferry offices at Thong Sala pier; contact them at tel. 0 7742-1281 for info or tel.1155 in an emergency. There are Branches of Siam City Bank with exchange and ATM service along both the main street of Thong Sala and in Haad Rin. Internet service is chockabloc around the island; prices are an inflated 2B (5¢) per minute.
Jeep and motorbike rental on Koh Pha Ngan is available anywhere in Haad Rin or near the ferry pier at Thong Sala (Caribeener Jeeps from 900B/$22; regular motorbikes from 150B/$3.65). The island roads are steep and treacherous, especially the popular southern reaches east of Thong Sala near Haad Rin. Many interior roads, including the trek to the secluded Thong Nai Pan area in the north, are hilly, muddy tracks. You can rent motorbikes with good suspension, a jazzed-up version of the standard scooter, for about 300B ($7.30) per day but exercise extreme caution, as anywhere. Songtaos (covered pickups) follow regular routes between Thong Sala ferry pier and Haad Rin as well as up the west coast and cost from 30B (75¢), more at night or during party time.
Just say “Mai!”
“Mai” means “no,” and Nancy Reagan’s ardent, much-parodied plea couldn’t be more apt. Thai authorities hope to put the kibosh on Haad Rin’s monthly Full Moon (and other “Half-moon” and “No-moon” excuses to rage). This means undercover drug busts by the very guy who just sold you that bag of Oregano and bribing your way out of a stripe-suited homestay or worse. Not worth it even if it seems all the other kids are doing it (insert Mom’s hyperbole about bridges and foolish conformity).
The rugged roads of Pha Ngan beg to be explored and interior roads connect small towns worth seeing as a window into a way of laid-back island living that is slowly disappearing.
Wat Kow Tahm is a well-known international meditation center and temple compound just north of the road connecting Thong Sala pier and busy Haad Rin. Since 1988, Steve and Rosemary Weissmann (from the U.S. and Australia respectively) have been offering courses in Insight Meditation, or Vipassana, as practiced in the Thai Theravada tradition. The emphasis is on the development of compassionate understanding through the practice of formal walking and sitting meditation. There are frequent Dharma talks and 10 and 20-day retreats are for meditators of all experience levels (costs from 3,500B/$85 for 10 days). The temple is also open to day visitors and has an overlook with one of the best views on the island. Check their informative website at www.watkowtahm.org or write for information to: Wat Kow Tahm, P.O. Box 18, Koh Pah Ngan, Surat Thani 84280.
No one stays in busy Thong Sala, the ferry town; at the least, visitors head due east to nearby Ban Tai Beach, a quiet stretch of sand just to the east of the ferry pier and readily accessible by songtao. The water is shallow and not great for swimming, but the beaches are lovely and there are a few convenient little resorts far from the hubbub of Haad Rin but close enough to visit.
145/1 Moo 1, Bantai Beach, Koh Pha Ngan 84280 (2km/11⁄4 miles east of Thong Sala).Tel. 0 7737-7225. Fax 07723-8352. 29 units. 1,200B–2,050B ($30–$50) garden double; 2,255B–4,100B ($55–$100) seaview double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; Jacuzzi; tour desk; car rental; Internet; massage; laundry. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, fridge, safe.
Mac Bay Resort Mac Bay is comfortable, on a nice stretch of isolated beach. Basic rooms are clean and adequate but just tiled cells really; larger air-conditioned rooms are a better choice. All have small shaded balconies and look onto the sea. Limited services but friendly, helpful staff. Baan Tai Beach, Koh Pha Ngan 84280 (down a small lane south of the main east-west road).Tel. 0 7723-8443. 25 units. 300B–450B ($7.30–$11) double w/fan; 700B ($17) double w/A/C. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; tour desk; motorbike rental; laundry. In room: Fan or A/C.
Haad Rin is a narrow peninsula on the island’s southeast tip, with a large number of bungalows on both the west and east sides and busy shopping streets and footpaths leading between them. There are lots of small bungalow resorts on Haad Rin but all are quite basic. On the busier west side try Coral Bungalows or Sunset Bay Resort (150B–300B/$3.65–$7.30).
If in an effort to transcend it all, hilltop Sea Breeze Bungalow might be the ticket (94/11 Moo 6, Haad Rin; Tel. 0 7737-5162). It’s a quiet, lofty perch high enough above town for a bit of quiet but close enough to walk down and join the festivities. Rooms start at 400B($9.75) for fan only (double at Full Moon).
The Sanctuary bills itself as an alternative, boutique resort. Though not a retreat center, they offer all kinds of healthy activities like yoga, massage, fasting and a whole list of treatments and programs. The place has a good, laid-back approach to healthy living at beachside. They have accommodation ranging from 60B ($1.50) dorms to scenic bungalows for between 350B and 1,000B ($8.50–$24). You’ll need to arrange a taxi boat from Haad Rin to Haad Tien (50B/$1.20). Contact them at: P.O. Box 3, Koh Pha Ngan 84280; no phone, but e-mail them through their website (www.sanctuaryresorts.com).
Green Papaya A mellow little courtyard resort at beachside, the bungalows of Green Papaya remind one of Mr. and Mrs. Howl’s residence on Gilligan’s Island, rustic luxury at beachside that makes brilliant use of local material. Okay, so they’ve got more than a malfunctioning radio here; in fact, all rooms are equipped with all the comforts of home, but the style of the place is special and each deluxe bungalow has a big hammock in the shade of a private porch. If Bob Denver (as Gilligan) came stumbling down the path in his ill-fitting red and white get-up, floppy hat and all, you wouldn’t bat an eye.
Haad Salad, Koh Pha Ngan, 84280 (on the far northwest of the island, about 16km/10miles north of the ferry). Tel. and fax 07737-4230. 17 units. 1,700B ($42). MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant and bar; tour desk; laundry. In room: A/C, TV.
Long Bay Resort Contact them in advance of arrival and the friendly folks at Long Bay, on the west coast north of the ferry pier, can make all the arrangements. It’s a large campus of bungalows and the resort is constantly under construction, expanding in increments. They offer a comfortable international standard of room and lots of good local adventure (rentals and tour services) as well as good eats along a quiet beach good for swimming.
Haad Yao, Koh Pha Ngan 84280 (11km/7miles north of Thong Sala along the west coast). Tel. 0 7737-7289.
37 units. 600B ($15) double w/fan; 1,600B–2,750B ($39–$67) double w/A/C. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; tour desk; car and motorbike rental; shuttle service; Internet; mini-mart; massage; laundry. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, fridge.
Salad Beach Resort Just next to Green Papaya (above) on the far reaches of Pha Ngan’s west coast, Salad Beach is a lovely, sandy cove and Salad Beach resort is the most luxurious choice here by far. Only recently opened, they have a small but lovely pool (quite special for Pha Ngan) and rooms are in a central courtyard of fine masonry buildings and have all the top comforts: air-conditioning and TV, stylish sleeping areas and designer bathrooms in layered shale stone and black tile. A good, semi-luxe romantic getaway with fine basic services.
Haad Salad, Koh Pha Ngan 84280 (on the far northwest of the island, about 16km/10miles north of the ferry). Tel. 0 7734-9274. Fax 07723-8242. 49 units. From 2,200B ($53) double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; tour desk. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, fridge.
Panviman Rustic-style bungalows outfitted with all the comforts of a high-end hotel cluster along the hills here high above Thong Nai Pan. The service is good, the pool is lovely (a multi-tiered affair with gorgeous views of the bay below) and they have all you need for a good hideaway vacation. Hotel block rooms are also well appointed. You’re a long hike from the hilltop to the beach, but they have convenient shuttles and good dining options mean you don’t have to leave really.
22/1 Moo 5, Thong Nai Pan Noi Bay, Koh Pha Ngan 84280.Tel. and fax 07723-8543. www.panviman.com. 42 units. 2,000B ($49) hotel block double; 3,000B–4,400B ($73–$107) bungalows. MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pool; Jacuzzi; watersports rental; snooker; tour desk; library and video lounge; limited room service; laundry. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, IDD phone.
Cheap eats abound in busy Haad Rin, your best bet for a good meal outside of your chosen resort but mostly budget storefronts blaring DVD movies at high decibels. One bright spot is Om Ganesh (Tel. 0 7737-5123) near the main ferry pier; they have great curries and set menus (all you can eat Indian tali meals) for little. Authentic, delicious and very popular.
For advanced booking with a dive service, contact a dive office. Try:
• Big Blue Diving Koh Tao in Mae Haad tel. 0 7745-6050(www.bigbluediving.com).
• Easy Divers in Mae Haad Town (at catamaran jetty) tel. 0 7745-6010 (www.thaidive.com).
7 The Far South & on to Malaysia
From Surat Thani going south, Thailand slowly gives way to Malay culture and Buddhism—predominant elsewhere in the kingdom—and is replaced by rich Islamic influence, a more gradual process than about any precise border line. Nakhon Si Thammarat is an ancient Buddhist city of note with many temples worth visiting. Far southern Hat Yai is a major transport hub and a destination more popular with Malay and Singaporean tourists and mostly a stopover for onward travel to (or connecting from) Malaysia.
Nakhon Si Thammarat, one of the oldest cities in south Thailand, has long been its religious capital. Wat Mahatat houses a hair of the Buddha and is the town’s central attraction and important pilgrimage point for Thai Buddhists. This region is the locus for traditional Thai puppet-play and Ban Nang Thalung Suchart Subsin (Mr. Subsin’s House of Shadow Plays) at 110/18 Si Thammasok Soi 3 (Tel. 7 534-6394) makes for an interesting visit.
Thai Airways and PB Air each connect Nakhon with Bangkok. All northsouth trains make a stop and affordable mini-vans can be arranged from any hotel (the best way to get around the south).
Thai Hotel, 1375 Ratchadamnoen Rd. (Tel. 0 7534-1509), is a basic standard and convenient with rooms starting at 390B ($9.50).
It’s a town full of tourists behaving badly really, mostly men from nearby Malaysia and Singapore attracted by this rowdy, slightly sleazy, inexpensive, consumer playground. For Westerners, Hat Yai is mostly a gateway to Malaysia by train or bus or a stepping-off point for rugged Tarutao National Park. Hat Yai’s busy Night Market is certainly worth a wander and the beaches at nearby Songkhla are not a bad day trip.
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| HAT YAI, Songkhla |
A number of fine hotels cater to Malay tourists. Try The Regency Hotel, 23 Prachathipat Rd. (Tel. 0 7423-4400), with rooms from 900B ($22) or the popular backpacker haunt, Cathay Guest House, 93/1 Niphat Uthit 2 Rd. (Tel. 0 7424-3815), with dorms from 100B ($2.50) and reasonable singles from 160B ($3.90).
Open to visitors from November to May, the 51-island chain known as Tarutao National Park is located off of Thailand’s far southwestern coast near the Malay border. Originally settled by sea gypsies, the islands tell an interesting tale of early political prisoners as the first settlers in 1939, later Japanese occupation and now a tug of war between local fisherman and environmentalists.
The jumping-off point for Tarutao is Ban Pak Bara, a port city reached by bus from Hat Yai. In season, boats connect Pak Bara on the mainland and Koh Tarutao, arriving on the island at populous Ao Pante where you’ll find the park headquarters, visitors center, tourist police, and all amenities. Other than hiking, the only other means of transport is via long-tail boats. Band with other travelers and expect to pay about 250B (US$6) for 10 people to travel south to Ao Sone Beach (as an example). Improvise and explore.
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